RGL
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Everything posted by RGL
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the fordeck has traditional molded chains which are of course ridiculous. Artox provides a chain with the deck set but is is very much out of scale, the leftover Varyag chain is perfect, but t requires a lot of work to make sure it all runs properly. I intend to use some 1/700 etched decking plate to cover the front deck which is paper thin (and in real terms more to scale than 1/700 where you would just not see the detail). After the first try at making a template, I realized that it would just be too hard to cut, so I removed the anchor holes and capstan bases from the Dresden kit and sanded the deck completely flush. I also had to cut a hole for the hatch that sits between the gun which is not referenced in the kit. This allows for one piece of etch with minimal cuts to go over the top. They need to be reduced a fair bit yet so the plates can run a lot narrower. At least the chains will fit in the hawser holes this way. The capstans are just pathetic and I have ordered some from the US which seems to have the slowest postal system in the world. Next a primer coat then decking colour and a varnish coat over the top. I'm off to the beach for 2 weeks so into storage it goes.
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As there is going to be photo etch to replace nearly everything topside, the decks have been cut flush. A little bit of sanding n the edges to make sure they'll sit flush and cover the internal guns properly.
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Finally the stern chasers. The plans has this as the officers mess, thus the attempt at a mess table again. I wont attach the hinged doors to any of these till the end of the build. I was going to leave the guns out till the end but they do not fit through the holses
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The second set of waist guns is in a much smaller area on the plans. Macro is not flattering but I am happy with their appearance to the naked eye. I think if I used a camera with a 50mm lens and not my phone
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This front waist 105mm gun is actually open on the kit, and I added a torpedo loading hatch, a few coaling scuttles (on the plans) and a few other doors. the reason i have added the contrasting colours was that if I did not they would just not be visible when the roof is on without internal lighting. It's like being a little bit pregnant, I'd have to do the entire thing. you can see from the first picture what the kit 105mm gun looks like in comparison to a scratch built one.
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I have made separate areas for the guns under the decks. The guns themselves come up very nicely when painted. the first part is the bow, utalising a mess table between the guns, and a few interior brass porthole covers. None of this will really be visible once the roof goes on.
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And dropped into the hull. Not going to glue it yet until i have all the housings done.
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Lovely build, it's a great feeling of satisfaction getting to this point. All I can say is beware the belaying!
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The side storage has hatches provided by Eduard which are lovely grates but just not accurate.This is the photo on the orange box. The coaling scuttles are very nice though and were blackened then sanded to provide detail. The kit nor Artwox mention them. The B/W photos are from the Australian War Memorial website and show the scuttles and the side hatches. I replaced the hatches with other spares, a little too big but they will almost be invisible after the kit is complete. As you can see from my hand size they are pretty small. I am in the process of making sinks which sit outside the toilets which are the first main door you can see forward.
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I have started on the deck. Given it is one continuous piece, it is far easier to cut it to bite size pieces. That way I can do the interior detail and amidships before starting on any of the housing. Firstly snipping it in three and filing it back. The adding a layer on top of the side storage which on the real ship was vinyl held down my 5cm brass strips. I have used cut off photo etch railing to represent this. The deck is from Artwox.
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Don't forget they don't have to work! Once lashed up you will not notice them. It's a lot of revision for something that's never going to move. Unless you own little people who are going to sail it, then I'd say they'll need revision.
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The hull is pretty much painted, just a few little touch ups to go. The Tamiya mask worked very well. Huff's plans state that the pre WW1 ships had no boot straps and I can find no reference to them apart from the Revell painting guide. It is somewhat of a relief. I am missing, however, a red pin stripe at the yellow and white border which was apparently 5cm and I have no idea how to paint a strip which is essentially 1mm thick. Open to suggestions or if anyone makes decals that thin in red stripe. Next is the interior detail for the below deck guns.
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I'm away at the moment but if you have a look at my photo on 14 September 2014 (the phone does not show the post number) it shows it.
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I think Danny commented on mine, I think the bumpkin stays would probably be released when working the anchors. In my final photos, (and on my finished model), I have one sides anchor being drawn in with the fish hook tackle and have one stay hanging loose to allow the hawser the run properly. Otherwise I imagine they would be attached so the tackle attached to their ends could be braced properly.
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First primer coat. There are a few things I want to fix up that are visible to me, like a tiny gap in the bilge keel, which I may remedy by running some CA along the gap to fill it. This kit is a little bit smaller than the Varyag and requires a lot more bashing.
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I love the bumpkins mate, just check the clearance on the bowsprit. And keep them away from cats.
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Wow, retirement, only 14 years to go! Well done.
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Now, a bit more cut and paste and I'm finally happy. Slog certainly save me a lot of recovery work, that's what happens when you're working upside down.
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