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Posts posted by RGL
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Quicker than building a wooden model boat Greg.
Nice work on the hull, looks good.
Dave R
Yes mate, and harder to hide sins, but needs far less skill.
- mtaylor, Old Collingwood, Canute and 2 others
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5
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Umm, Greg - looking at your last photo, it appears that you have right hand propellers on the port side and left hand propellers on the starboard side. Have you photos to show this ion the original ship, as multiple propellers are almost invariably fitted the other way around so that they're outward turning when the ship is going ahead; which provides for much better manoeuvrability - especially when going astern.
John
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The screw and shafts complete. I used some lovely G Factor brass ones specific to this kit.


I then placed on the depth markers. These are dry transfers which I have never used before but after a quick look on the internet on how to use them (no instructions were provided) they went on very easily. If you loom closely at the tird phot you can see the .3mm rings for the torpedo boom rigging.
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- Canute, Captain Slog, Keith_W and 14 others
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17
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There is a heap of plastic models and aftermarket coming out in 1/200 at the moment, OK if you have poor eyesight and lots of space I suppose. I often wonder what the kids will do with mine when I'm gone! The Endeavor would look good anywhere, the plastic ones are a matter of choice I suppose, so will end up in a bin.
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Moving along! Primer coat done and the armor belts came up OK.
then the bottom of the hull. I want to leave it about 12 hours before I do the black band and upper hull. Over all I'm pretty happy so far. Before I do the grey top I want to add around 100 or eyelets to the side of the hull for the torpedo net boom rigging. They are so small I wont prime them as they will just fill up with paint. 
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That's not good mate, as I say to the bride, I don't go out drinking, I hate golf, I'm not mad about football, it's my meditation time.
- Old Collingwood, cog, mtaylor and 2 others
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5
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There is no detail of the armor plates at all on the hull. So I did some masking in an attempt to have an under coat of plates, the main band running across the length of the hull did not work out too well so I had an epiphany and remembered the red tape I used on the emden, which is very thin and will do well after painting. But the time it has a couple of primer coats and a sand it should work out before the top coats.
The bilge keels also had a massive gap which needed filling.
A light sand then add the multiple porthole eyebrows. I know it looks rough now, but hopefully will not be so noticeable as it will be wearing a skirt (torpedo nets).
- schooner, paulsutcliffe, Canute and 12 others
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15
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You are so right there, it's almost a third of the build! This is a cut and paste exercise!
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Now, I had to get moving along, as it becomes a bit of a chicken or the egg argument when I do each part. Firstly I had to join the hull, drill holes for the pedestals, putty up the gaps then clamp in the deck.

Next is to add the bilge keels then cut down the shafts and struts, replacing them with brass rods.


Next will be a light primer coat along the seams to look for errors.
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Just had a look at their stuff, and it's pretty good. I have been wondering how I am going to replicate the missing armour plates on the hull and this pretty much confirms how I thought it would have to be done.
- Elijah, WackoWolf, Captain Slog and 3 others
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6
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HMS Dreadnought 1907 by RGL - FINISHED - Zvezda - 1/350- PLASTIC
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1901 - Present Day
Posted
Just to prove your point someone will drag one out from obscurity now. I can believe there are so few photos.