Tigersteve

Hello, everyone. Moving on...
 
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 

Hello and thank you for your comments and likes
 
Yes Chuck, I used a scraper for the mouldings, but also carving tools.
Today I installed the first channel, but not fast at all. That was more work as expected, but at least I got it. The next will go faster.
 
The shipwright spend a grog for that and I think the water is hot 😃
 

 

 

Finished adding the trim and the 6th timberhead, so the rails and timberheads are now done.
Ready to advance to the next chapter to finish the beakhead structures.
As usual, once one (me) struggles through a tough patch and looks at the less than perfect results, you think "well if I ever built this again or something like it (not going to happen) I now know how to do a cleaner, better job." I've never been so happy to turn the last page in a chapter. Tough being a perfectionist without quite the skills and experience and dexterity to get to that level.
Overall, acceptable for home use and display and the admiral loves it so it's all good. She's pick out an unoccupied spot for display, although I'll have to drive it half way across the country.
I find that after building something I have no desire to build something similar again. Getting old, and running out of display space despite 2 homes.
I have a Caldercraft bomb vessel on the shelf, but I think I'm done with 18th/early 19th  century warships so doubt that will ever be built. I have a Dusek La Real as the only other orphan in my stash but I don't feel like tackling that next as I gradually advance towards finishing this 2+ year build. Also, finished it will be huge and I don't think I have anywhere to put it. So I'll push that one off for the foreseeable.
The Amati 1/32 Scottish fishing vessel Fifie has caught my eye, and would go well in our Marblehead home. I've ordered that and will jump it to the head of the list. Sought out build logs here to review/follow.

NO CHAR FOR YOU!!!!

Seriously though....knowing that some of you are now referring to me as the "Laser char nazi".   There is a very valid reason.  But its not all bad.  There are times when removing the char isnt as necessary.  BUT...I cant understand why it is left on items to remain bright...or painted red which shows.  More on this later.  LOL
 
Time for the Fcastle rail and timberheads.
 
There are twelve timberheads per side.  Thats quite a few.  And then let us not forget the many along the qdeck.   These have been laser cut for you and yes there is a lot of char.   Now I know that some of you will start to see these wonderful details being added which make the whole project special.  And the more details like this the easier it is to lose your will to slow it down and you you start cutting corners.  Because lets face it, getting these details on the model makes a huge difference and you want to see them on the model as quickly as possible.  I suffer the same affliction, trust me.
 
BUT...lucky for us, we do not have to go crazy here removing the char from these timberheads which are quite small, with lots of inside corners for the char to hide.  You will still need to give them a good cleaning to smooth out the surface for painting.  I use sanding sticks and 420 grit sandpaper.  The surface must be prepared but dont try and remove it all.  You will distort the shape and also make the timberheads too small to fit snug in each hole of the rail.  You can see how clean I made those timberheads.  They are still pretty clean with just a light swipe of the sandpaper.  
 

So you will save some time here which is good news because....
 
Because, I strongly urge you not to cut corners on the next step.   You should certainly take the time to shape the timberheads on all four sides.  Many of you will be tempted to just use them as is.  That might be quick…but it would be a mistake.
 
The reason why this is so important is because they will appear much too heavy otherwise.  Too many kits have ridiculously heavy and thick timberheads.  It looks too kit-like.  By chamfering all four sides at the top of the timberheads they will appear slimmed down and in scale.  In addition,  the angled front and back sides… You will need to slice down towards a "stop cut" to create the proper shape.  See the photo above.  This will make a huuuuge difference. So yes its ok to cut corners on the char here.  But please do shape each timberhead carefully.  
 
I also sanded the rail itself smooth and softened the four corners along its length.  As I finished each
timberhead, I slid them from the bottom into position along the rail.  I have created a small "stop" ledge on one side of each timberhead.  If you didnt over sand them and remove this detail, it will keep the rail level and The rookie at the same height across all of the timberheads.  Hope that makes sense. In addition,  this “stop ledge” detail should always face forward when you slide the timberheads onto the rail.  This is important.
 
When all the timberheads are cleaned and shaped, test the rail in position.  The laser cut tenons on the bottom of each timberhead are not as wide as the holes in the caprail.  So you should have wiggle room to adjust the timberheads and rail.  Dont glue the timberheads into the rail yet.  And dont glue the rail onto the model.   While test-fitting in position, you need to add the fancy end piece.   See below.  Just glue it onto the end of the rail and let dry.
 
When dry, remove the entire rail from the model.  Remove all the timberheads from the rail.  I numbered the timberheads but that probably isnt necessary.  Then do your best to fill the seam between that fancy end piece and sand it so you can not see any trace of the seam before painting the rail black.

Here is a picture of the forward end being tested below. Everything fits great.   Nothing is glued together yet.  Once that seam is acceptable to me, I will paint all of the timberheads black individually and also the rail.  Then I will reassemble it for the last time and glue it on the model.  This will take some considerable time....then I have to do it all over again on the starboard side.
 
Any questions???
 

 
 
 

Very clear tutorial. Nicely done!
Steve

Thanks for posting that video, Doris. What material are you using? Is it Sculplay? 
Steve

Where is the video you mention on Doris’ sculpting procedure?
Steve

This is crazy good!
Steve

Yes- totally fixable. Nice recovery. 
Steve

Fcastle planking is completed.  I also added the mast coat as you can see in the photo.  This is also the same as the earlier ones we built.  The open areas of the decking reveal plenty of the gun deck.  Just remember,  you can add more deck planks if you prefer.  You can also plank one side completely and leave the other side just showing the deck beams and knees.  Its up to you.
 
Now its onto either the belfry rail or jump over and start working on the qdeck coamings.  I havent decided yet.   There is also a large knee at the bow to make.
 
Chuck
 

 

Finally finished the "Step", using several different blades, needle file, sandpaper, and wood filler to help smooth out the edges.  It's not perfect, but it looks ok to me, so I'm moving on.  Thanks for all the suggestions and the encouragement!  This was slow going, and I'll probably do a bit more filing, but it's essentially done.  Next up is the sternpost, stem, and keel (made it to page 4! Whee-ha!)
 

Fixed the stern

The bow looks better now too!

This is an important picture as I plank down the center.  Note that the center 3 deck planks were cut using the template as a guide.  These are glued in first.   Then the two bitts we made are glued into position in front of and aft of the fore mast hole.   It would be very difficult to cut and add those three center planks with the bitts in position already.   Once they are glued into position the two remaining strakes of deck planks on each side can be completed.  In the photo you can see that I have already cut and shaped the three lengths for the next strake.   I will finish up the deck planking on the fcastle tomorrow.  
 
Any questions or comments.  Remember that all of the planking is tapered and curved.   These planks were cut from a 3/64" thick sheet of cedar.  I glued the template on it and cut the next plank I needed with a sharp #11 blade.  I sanded it smooth and close to the lines and tested it and retested and retested....you guys get the idea.
 

 
 

After putting this model away for a couple of years I'm ready to try and correct the mistake I made. When I got to the point of putting the rear benches in place I found that I didn't fair the inside frames enough and would have to tear down some of the build I had already done. Needless to say I was completely discouraged and just put the model away. I'm now ready to look at it again. As you can see in the picture I removed what was needed in order to  start sanding down the frames to where they need to be.

Yes- totally fixable. Nice recovery. 
Steve

Thank you mtaylor.
I continue with the beakhead bulkhead pinrail and knees.

Yes- totally fixable. Nice recovery. 
Steve

Finished drilling all the holes on the starboard side! So I am halfway now 😀

That is pretty outrageous. Sorry to hear that. I noticed someone picking up my model to view it at one point. I thought that was a bit out of line as well. Unless you give permission that is not okay. 
Steve

That is pretty outrageous. Sorry to hear that. I noticed someone picking up my model to view it at one point. I thought that was a bit out of line as well. Unless you give permission that is not okay. 
Steve

I was thinking of showing my Speedwell in progress at the show but I was afraid the temporarily placed carvings might disappear. Guess I was right to be hesitant.
 
RIP little Chucky! I hope a disgruntled client didn’t lift it for voodoo purposes. Any unusual aches and pains lately Chuck?

Hi...    so after all the riggig the blocks 
most of the yards are know rigged ... some bits and peaces are still left of..
 
 
svein.e..

I decided to plank the outside bands or belts of the fcastle and qdeck.  I wanted to break up the task rather than have to do all of the remaining planking at once.   I cant plank the center band until I make all the coamings and gratings etc.   What I did do however was select all of the wood for the planking now so it all was a good match in color and lightness.   I set aside all of the wood for when do plank down the center.
 
You have a few options here.  I will let you decide.   You can rip some strips and bend them to the curves needed based on the template.  Thats fine, especially for the qdeck planking.   BUT, I decided to just rubber cement my template for the fcastle planking on some 3/64" thick cedar sheets.  The curves are more pronounced on the fcastle.  Then I just used a sharp #11 blade to cut them out.  I stayed outside of the lines and then sanded them to fit tightly.   There are only four planks on each side of the fcastle so it isnt too bad.   Just use the template first as a paper guide and make any tweaks for your model before cutting them from wood.  No laser cut and etched decking here folks!!
 

For the qdeck I just ripped some 1/4" x 3/64" strips.  Then I tapered them to match the template.  I made sure the butt joints fell on a beam.  Try for some nice tight seams here.....and dont forget to simulate the caulking down one edge of each strip with a pencil or whatever method you prefer.
 
 You can see that so much of the gun deck is still viewable and this will be a nice method so all those details and hard work arent hidden away below deck.

Next up I will be making the coamings and gratings so I can plank around them down the center of the deck.  This may take a while because I want those grating to fit perfectly in the coamings just like they did on the gun deck.   That means there will be plenty of coaming thrown in the trash until they are just right.
 
I wanted to take pictures with the little "mini me" but unfortunately some knucklehead with sticky fingers stole it right off the model at the Connecticut show.  I wonder what the guy is doing with a mini me?   I shudder to think.  Rest in peace "mini me".   So far no ransom note has been sent.
 

I appreciate the kind words! I enjoyed designing this presentation. The longboat is quite a challenging project. 
Steve

Yes- let’s get back to it!
Steve

Chainplates, deadeyes, and remaining metalwork are done! I should rename this build log "That was Harder than Expected". I didn't expect drilling holes in the tiny brass strips would be possible so my solution was to use eyehooks instead. I should have been more selective with the deadeyes as the holes are drilled better in some. It's not perfect but hopefully it won't be noticeable after the lanyards are tied.
 
I'm going to work on the display stand next. I have a new presentation planned that I haven't seen on MSW before so hopefully it comes out as planned.
Steve