Tigersteve

Here is chapter two!!!   Disregard any typos!!!!!
 
Chaptertwo.pdf
 
Dont hesitate to ask me any questions!!!!

Today I started working on the transom and quarter gallery construction.  We are just going to build the foundations here.  
 
To begin, I took the 3/64" thick transom and clamped it into position.....
 

Now this laser cut piece was cut a bit taller than needed.  This was done on purpose because there will no doubt be some variations.  It depends on where you placed those stern frame fillers.  The best way to judge the placement of the transom is not the outboard side.  You must examine the inboard side carefully.
 

Note the lips around each stern window opening.  These will in all likelihood not be very consistent.  Thats OK.  That is why I designed it this way.  You will be able to push the windows into position and move them a bit so they look good from outboard.  Basically you will center them in the space.  That lip allows you to do that.   This is what you should be adjusting placement for.  When you have a good orientation where the lips around each stern window are good (examine the plans as this is shown) you will see how the transom is too high.   
 
But its not a problem because you can mark the true height with a pencil as I have done and sand the top of transom to fit your model before gluing it into position.  I hope that makes sense.  The top of the transom should be flush with your stern filler pieces.  Runn a pencil along the tops of your filler pieces while its clamped in the final position.   
 
Another thing to keep in mind is the quarter gallery window.  There will also be a lip around that.  Make sure it is consistent on the port and starboard sides.  You dont want one side bigger than the other after you glue it on.  Dont shift it more to one side than the other.
 
I like to glue the transom on first.  Many might find it easier to plank the upper counter first.  But because all the window openings are crucial, I thought it best to glue the transom in position first after determining the placement.  This will of course leave a nice consistent measurement for your upper counter as shown in that top photo.  Once the transom is glued on you can plank the upper counter.
 

I uses 3 strips rather than laser cut these.  Again this width will no doubt vary from model to model.....just a wee bit.  I used 7/32" x 3/64" strips to plank the upper counter.  You will need to bevel the edges against the transom and lower counter.  Also pre-bend these because although it is hard to see in the photos, there is a substantial curve to these.  Make sure you make these extra long so they extend a bit more beyond the side of the transom.  You can see that in the picture above.
 
Then, I took these two 3/32" thick laser cut pieces....
 

These are glued to the forward side of the transom where the quarter galleries are.  But its not that simple.  Once again they are slightly over-sized.  You must first bevel the side that fits against the hull planking.  It will need some careful beveling.  You also need to take enough material from that side so it also leaves a consistent lip around the window.  This is so we can push those window frames in the opening.  This will be tricky!!!  Try and sand enough away to give you a decent lip on both sides of this window opening.  Then sand the outsides to match the shape of your transom.  
 

Eventually the upper counter will be shaped like I show it above.  See the pencil line that shows the typical shape.  But before we do that, we need to double up the planking thickness on the upper counter (under the 3/32" piece we just added).  I used some scrap 1/16" thick strips.  It doesnt have to be fancy, this will all be covered up later.  But we need to make it thicker.
 
Then you can sand the sides of the upper counter to shape...
 

The sides have been sanded in the photo above.  Notice the added thickness.  The side of the counter was sanded flush with the transom on the top....but it angles narrower to give you the right shape along the bottom.
 
How will you know how wide to make the bottom of the counter?  It should be 7/16" away from the hull.  Measure before you sand!!! And draw a line from top to bottom so you have a reference line to follow when sanding the edge to shape.
 
Thats it for the transom for now.  Next I will start framing the quarter galleries.  Also forgot to mention that the two small round ports on the the top of the stern filler pieces, they can be enlarged to the size as laser cut in the transom.  I have yet to do this but maybe I will do it tomorrow.  
 
Any questions???
 
 
Oh and notice the gentle curve on the transom...it is quite evident now.  Things will be a bit messy while we build out the transom and quarter galleries.  But once everything is painted and cleaned up it will look lovely.
 

I think I had about 10 as well. Marking the frames will help keep your symmetry and the cap rail will finish it off nicely. I planked from the keel up and ended up redoing the top two strakes. 
Steve

Cool photography!
Steve

Cool photography!
Steve

The second planking belt, now completed, has proven to be the most difficult one to do so far. I'm told that the last two belts will be much easier to complete which is good news.
 
After seeing Chuck's taped off molding bands that run both through and above the gun ports, I was very curious as to how this would look on my ship. I wanted to know if the gun ports, fixed blocks and sheer were correct. Using measurements taken off the plan drawing I transferred the lower molding position onto the hull (turns out that the lower molding runs parallel to the wales). 1/8" tape was placed onto the hull to simulate the lower molding that runs through the gun ports. After eyeing the run from several positions I could see that some very slight tweaking was needed in order to establish a smooth run. Once satisfied, I added the simulated 3/32" upper molding which runs parallel to the lower molding. I was happy to see that both sides of the hull are almost identical with regard to gun port placement as well as sheer height and shape.


Mike

Started on the fairing. The miniature chisels from Veritas are ideal for getting into tight places. The one shown is 1/8".

Before going much further I decided to try to harden the keel a bit with some coats of shellac. I just need to look at the basswood and I get dints in it.

I'm glad I decided to go for boxwood for the planking and fittings. Not easy to see in the photo, but straight off the saw the boxwood has an almost mirror sheen compared to the timber supplied in the kit. Don't get me wrong, the kit timber is very good quality as far as it goes - straight, consistent colour and dimensions and no faults - but it is basswood. I know some people get great results with it 'cos I've seen their logs, but boxwood is more forgiving for someone at my skill level.

Dry fitting to see how the fairing's going.

Not bad so far, but shortly after this a 6mm section broke off the side of one of the frames. I was just holding the boat in one hand whilst fairing the other side, and applying very little pressure. Gluing it back in position was easy, but the breakage demonstrated just how fragile the frames are and what soft hands you need.
 
I'll leave the dockyard now - enough excitement for one day!
 
Derek

Steve, your model looks very elegant on the long thin tubes - I think you've convinced me to ditch the pedestals. Btw, how did you do the label - that adds a very fine touch?
 
Derek

Although the spacers I've put between the frames have made the model fairly stiff, the fact that only one end of each spacer is glued (to aid eventual removal) means there is still some movement. So to help fairing I've added strengthening strips in line with other people's advice. I've stuck a block on top so that I can clamp the model upside down when needed.

Next, I started ripping some castello boxwood strips - a doddle on my new Byrnes saw.

I think this is what the psychologists call displacement behaviour - I'm looking for any job to do rather than getting to grips with fairing and planking!
 
Derek

Thin brass tubes or rods are the way to go. I used 1/16”. 
Steve

Thanks! This was another challenging build, but I had a lot of fun modifying some of the features. 
Steve

I've decided to dig into my stash and take out the oldest resident there: Model Shipways  USF Confederacy. Should be a challenge for me.
This is going to be a slow build, because I only have a couple of hours a day to devote to it; too many other kinds of projects going on.
Since there are a very large number of both old and new build logs of the Confederacy, I'm not going to post a blow by blow description. Plan on periodic updates and asking advice for problems encountered since many have built this model. 
I was relieved to find the kit had the good plywood, and there was no warping despite its period of neglect.
I dusted off the snazzy build board I bought primarily for this build once I determined that this big mother would fit. The building "board" is amazingly flexible once you figure out how to arrange all the bits depending on what you want to do.
I just moved the model up from the base clamp once I finished placing the bulkheads, filler blocks, stern and bow fillers, and fitted balsa blocks at the bow.
So, ready for faring. The board apparatus allows for rotation of the model, and some clamps (visible in the photo below) holds it rock steady together with the fore and aft clamps. I've got it turned to work on the starboard faring, and will start that soon. It looks like I will have plenty of clearance for constructing the stern pieces, and other than rotating from side to side I should be able to do all of the upper planking at least with the current positioning of the attachment points. Pretty neat.
Planning pretty much an out of the box build, perhaps except replacing the cannon with Chuck's. I wish he still had replacement figurehead though.
That's all for now.
 

Thank You to all the 'Likes'.
This week I worked on the two yards.
I have the chance to found an excellent article written by Chuck Passaro on how to improve the details of the yards. This 6 pages article entitled 'Intermediate techniques for improving yard details' can be downloaded from the 'Club-resources' section of 'The Ship Model Society of Ney Jersey' web site. It is very informative and full of interesting techniques.



All the different elements were the painted black.


Time to work on the chain plates.
 
 

Planksheer outer strip is installed and the bulkhead extensions that were previously removed have been replaced and shaped to follow the curve of the hull, both inboard and out. Next up will be fabricating the false frame extensions that go between the ones shown here. There are two between each bulkhead. 

@SpyGlass: thank you very much.
 
Today I did more work on the standing rigging and installed the spreader yard horse. The upper part is served over its entire length. The shrouds are next, I consider that the hardest part of the rigging.

Not glued, before black painting of wales...

Handly cut of rail (no laser cut piece for that into the kit...) and general views with Longboat's simulation (I should prefer it "without")  😋

Planking is now finished on the starboard side....I did celebrate a little and I am glad it is all done.  Next up I will add the stern post.  I already sanded the planking flush with the stern rabbet and now all I have to do is tweak the laser cut stern post and glue it in position.
 


 
You will also notice those black bands across the hull.  You guys know how I like to check and double and triple check stuff using tape and other stuff.  What you see is black masking tape cut to 3/32" wide for the top band and 1/8" wide for the band that runs through the center of the gun ports.  I had been looking at my test molding strips and thought that the molding I had used for the lower band was too wimpy at 3/32" wide.  I had originally matched the width of the one above above it. You can see it in the photo below.  I have also been examining the contemporary model and original draft a lot more with regard to the moldings.  They show a heavier lower molding running through the gun ports.  So I used the tape to check out what a wider molding would look like.  I really recommend that you guys go through this exercise.  It will help you establish the proper run for them.  You can tweak them to you hearts content.  Then mark the top edge with a pencil so you have a guide when actually adding the molding.   
 
Even though you might be able to use the planking seams as a guide, that isnt always perfect and may have gone waavy or too high in spots.  Mine did in some areas so I was able to correct it with the tape and mark it for later.  You cant notice it when just looking at the planks but it would have been noticeable after the molding went on.  Especially at the bow.  It also helps me get consistent on both sides which your planking may not be perfectly aligned. 
 
I am going to go with a wider molding.  Here is the contemporary model...
 

Once the stern post is on it will complete chapter two....I am working on the written chapter right now.  Shouldnt be long until I post it.
 
Chapter three will consist of stern transom and quarter gallery construction.....fun times!!!
 
 
 
 

Hi all Ship mates.
 
Small update of my work progress.



And couple more bits & pieces
 


 

Today step : long boat's structure...


 

Cool photography!
Steve

Cool photography!
Steve

Cool photography!
Steve

The false deck construction  continues. After the aft part and the front part, comes now the front middle part. The last part will be int he next post, the middle part.