Tim Curtis

Since no log can be deemed complete without some overall photos of the finished model, mine are attached here.
 
I'd like to take this opportunity to thank all of you who have followed this build, who have hit the "like" button, and, particularly, those who have provided their support and encouragement through their generous thoughts and comments. It is gratifying to have such an appreciative response from such a talented and accomplished group of modelers. Thanks again.
 
I hope to see you all on my new log for Prince de Neufchatel, which will be opened a little later today.
 
Bob

The bowsprit is now rigged.  I still need to add the top mast forestay.  The blocks are rigged but not tied off so there is some slack that will disappear when finished.


Maury

Continuation. 
 

 

 

 

 

 
Pawel

Haven't done much work in the last two weeks, but made a little progress this past weekend. The instructions show adding strips of heavy paper to various parts.

 
For the armour belting I used 1/32 x 3/16 basswood. Then I shot a quick coat of primer on the model to see how much more sanding I need to do. The even color makes it easier to see irregularities than the bare wood does. Time for a little auto body filler, I'm afraid......

The next step is to start cutting out the planks in swiss pear to match the precut planks in the kit. This is really easy and takes about 5 or 10 mins per plank.
I glued the kit plank to the strip of pear with UHU, so that they can be easily separated later. Then carefully cut around the plank with a sharp scalpel.

Finally I gently sanded around the edge of the two planks while they are still stuck together so that they are exactly the same shape. I used a nail file stick.
Then gently separate them, and hey presto, I have a plank in swiss pear that matches the Annegri kit plank exactly. Two finished examples set out below.

It still remains to see if the "iron on" glueing process will work. But preliminary tests have been encouraging.
 
Tim.
 

I am going to try something new with the planking on this model.
The kit comes with precut planks, which is SO helpful. Its basically a sheet of veneer which has been laser cut.  But the wood is not partic great. I think its Annegri? It has a large pronounced grain, and is not as hard as I would like. See below.

 
So I am going to try a cheap, efficient way to replace the kit planks with swiss pear planking. I purchased on ebay a 5m x 25mm length of swiss pear veneer. Its solid wood but only about 0.6mm thick, which is the same thickness as the kit planking. Its from a German company ( https://ebay.com.au/usr/support-center24) and cost about $10 AUD. The neat thing is that it comes with a layer of "iron-on" glue on the back, and is VERY flexible. I am hoping that I will be able to fix it in place without having to steam, or using CA, or pins....but simply with the flat head of a soldering iron. So this should be super cheap, super easy way of getting beautiful swiss pear planking on my model. Here is what the veneer looks like. It comes rolled up in a box. Took about 10 days to get here from Germany.

Here is some of the bulkhead planking which come as laser cut veneer sheets, with gunports already cut, and planking scribed by laser.
The external planking is in annegri wood, which has a pronounced grain which responds badly to staining with markers, so I ended up painting this (which took ages) with about ten thin layers of acrylic.
Internal planks are walnut, which I stained red, once, with permanent marker in about 2 minutes....

 

Here are a few photos of the cannons. Again pretty teensy at this scale.
They come as a separate little laser cut kit, with barrels cast including a vague royal seal.
There is some laser scribing in the wood which I like, partic the detailed capsquare. Ring bolts are PE brass, included in the kit, but I have not fitted them yet.

 

Here is a photo of the scribed decking. It was pre-scribed by laser cutter. I deepened and darkened the scribing and the treenailing with a 0.3mm 2H pencil. I am pleased with results, especially at 1:72.

Welcome to my build log for the Master Korabel phoenix.

I  chose this kit for a number of reasons.
1. It is a high quality kit:
It makes use of some good quality wood including pear. Many of the detailed parts are of the highest quality, I note partic the blocks, the yawl/longboat included in the "plus" kit, the gratings, cannons, the many PE brass parts. See below for more info. The "shortcuts": the deck is provided as one sheet, with the planking and treenailing scribed in by laser. The result is a HUGE timesaver, and produces much better results than anything I could do at 1:72. All planking is also laser cut veneer hardwood, with planks already cut to the proper length, curvature and width etc (even the longboat). Again a huge timesaver. There are also about 20 very helpful online tutorials taking you through every step of the build on youtube. Here is the first one, which also is a wonderful intro to the contents of the kit.  
 
Finally the kit is very good value. I got the "plus" version which includes the longboat, higher quality blocks and wood for about $250 AUD. Online from a Russian supplier on ebay. This is about $200. For a time poor church minister, working six days a week, with three kids with a small craft desk in his study...this seemed to be a great value kit, that I will have a fighting chance of completing within 12 months or so.  

The next step is to start cutting out the planks in swiss pear to match the precut planks in the kit. This is really easy and takes about 5 or 10 mins per plank.
I glued the kit plank to the strip of pear with UHU, so that they can be easily separated later. Then carefully cut around the plank with a sharp scalpel.

Finally I gently sanded around the edge of the two planks while they are still stuck together so that they are exactly the same shape. I used a nail file stick.
Then gently separate them, and hey presto, I have a plank in swiss pear that matches the Annegri kit plank exactly. Two finished examples set out below.

It still remains to see if the "iron on" glueing process will work. But preliminary tests have been encouraging.
 
Tim.
 

Here is a photo of the windlass. It comes as a neat little kit of its own. I have stained the posts with permanent marker, which is quick and tidy. 

The next step is to start cutting out the planks in swiss pear to match the precut planks in the kit. This is really easy and takes about 5 or 10 mins per plank.
I glued the kit plank to the strip of pear with UHU, so that they can be easily separated later. Then carefully cut around the plank with a sharp scalpel.

Finally I gently sanded around the edge of the two planks while they are still stuck together so that they are exactly the same shape. I used a nail file stick.
Then gently separate them, and hey presto, I have a plank in swiss pear that matches the Annegri kit plank exactly. Two finished examples set out below.

It still remains to see if the "iron on" glueing process will work. But preliminary tests have been encouraging.
 
Tim.
 

The next step is to start cutting out the planks in swiss pear to match the precut planks in the kit. This is really easy and takes about 5 or 10 mins per plank.
I glued the kit plank to the strip of pear with UHU, so that they can be easily separated later. Then carefully cut around the plank with a sharp scalpel.

Finally I gently sanded around the edge of the two planks while they are still stuck together so that they are exactly the same shape. I used a nail file stick.
Then gently separate them, and hey presto, I have a plank in swiss pear that matches the Annegri kit plank exactly. Two finished examples set out below.

It still remains to see if the "iron on" glueing process will work. But preliminary tests have been encouraging.
 
Tim.
 

The next step is to start cutting out the planks in swiss pear to match the precut planks in the kit. This is really easy and takes about 5 or 10 mins per plank.
I glued the kit plank to the strip of pear with UHU, so that they can be easily separated later. Then carefully cut around the plank with a sharp scalpel.

Finally I gently sanded around the edge of the two planks while they are still stuck together so that they are exactly the same shape. I used a nail file stick.
Then gently separate them, and hey presto, I have a plank in swiss pear that matches the Annegri kit plank exactly. Two finished examples set out below.

It still remains to see if the "iron on" glueing process will work. But preliminary tests have been encouraging.
 
Tim.
 

Here are some photos of the longboat. About 90mm long at 1:72. Its pretty teensy. But a good little kit with most of the wood being pear. Sadly the keel and prow are in very crumbly ply which is hard to work with, and has a poor finish.
Stained the wales, rail and top plank with permanent marker to get some tidy colour, without the difficulty of painting at this little scale.

Wow, you have been a busy beaver JesseLee and well done I should add.
 
Cheers,

Coppering the hull.
 
Before coppering, using a highly specialized tool, I marked the waterline, which is also the upper border for copper plates.

 Despite of the primitive method, it goes straight.

 The belt between the waterline and the lower border of the main wale (which will be laid in the future) I’ve painted black.
 
Coppering is made from Ventura Tape copper foil, with black adhesive.
 
Before cutting the strips imitating copper plates, I fastened a longer strip of copper (about 135 mm) to the cutting mat using a masking tape. Next step  was to make an imitation of nailing; I used Trumpeter's rivet maker with densely spaced teeth (by Trumpeter marked with letter „A”) for nailing on the edges, and for nailing in the middle with less frequent teeth (marked as No. „D”).
 

 
So prepared copper strips I cut - using a small jig – to plates of the correct length, specifically 13 mm.
 



 

A minor milestone.  I've completed the planking of the curvy part at the stern. Easy sailing from here other than the tighter space which will make clamping a bit harder.  So far this has been one of my easier hulls to plank.
 

Cheers for the comments EJ I think everyone has one of these but hayho 
Still fitting the ratlines but have broken them up by fitting the mane stay and crowfoot, but it's on with the ratlines 
Martyn

Thanks.  Still planning on fully planking the model, both hull and deck.  I think I just prefer the finished look.
 

Planking looking great. Are you going to fully plank the model, or leave some frames exposed?
You seem to have got the stern to a good shape as well.
 
 

Well, mine was only 6mm. Had to build them up. I used spare planking and got it up to roughly 10mm. Its out of scale anyways, but at least now it doesnt look out of place.

Small update. Here is the fore gaff, with outhaul, and peak halliard block attached.

Thats great, very helpfull. Thank you.
would you mind trying to measure bulwark between the deck and rail? I suspect i have to build up mine...