tlevine
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Everything posted by tlevine
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I use both carbide bits and HSS. If I am using a pinvise, the only type of bit I use is HSS. I will almost always use a carbide bit when I am using a drill press or the sensitive attachment on my Sherline mill. For drilling treenails, I usually use a carbide bit in my variable speed cordless Dremel. This requires a steady hand because any torque will snap the bit off in the wood. -
Scratch built chainplate
tlevine replied to RossR's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Taking a look at Allan's book "Scantlings", I found dimensions for Bindings of the deadeyes on pages 238-9. There probably is not much difference in the diameter between British and Spanish practice. A fifth rate of 34 guns would have had a binding of 1.5" fore and main and 1.25" mizzen. -
You could try copper tubing or sterling silver tubing, patinated with liver of sulfur and then burnished. The silver will look just like pewter but the copper is cheaper.
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My scuppers were made from a silver-gray craft paper. I rolled the paper around an appropriate diameter dowel to form the scupper.
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When I grow up, I hope to be only half as skilled as you are. Your work is amazing.
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Jerry, this is how I tapered the planks on my Fair American. Measure the width of the deck at the fore end of the quarter deck and at the transom. Decide the width of planks at the break of the deck, for example ten inches. Divide the deck width by the plank width. It obviously will not be whole number. So if your deck width is twelve feet, you will have fourteen whole planks and an extra four inches. Add a quarter inch to the width of each plank and you have the width of the planks at the break. Now divide the width at the transom by fourteen and you have the plank width there as well. Now that you know those two numbers, make one deck plank out of card and use it as a template to make the planks. For installing, start at the midline. It is a lot easier to hide an odd plank at the waterway than in the middle of the deck. And don't forget the slight taper along the plank edges to compensate for the camber of the deck.
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Ken, the etchant in this case is the vinegar. If you are asking about the Birchwood Casey, I use a 25% solution. I rarely use vinegar. I prefer to use a warm solution of Sparex (dilution instructions are on the package). It keeps forever in a glass or ceramic container. Mine is kept in a tiny crock pot which I turn on low when needed.
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Drifts
tlevine replied to tlevine's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Great photo, Roger. Let's face it, nothing we do as modelers is completely authentic. We use alternate materials and various construction techniques. The whole idea is to learn something new and, most importantly, have fun. -
Drifts
tlevine replied to tlevine's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thanks, Bob. I will keep an open mind when construction begins. -
Drifts
tlevine replied to tlevine's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
If I go ahead, my plan is to build at 1:24 scale. I will not be steam bending any frames; they will be cut out like "typical" frames. Unlike Atalanta, I won't have to deal with chocks between the frame components! -
Drifts
tlevine replied to tlevine's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Bob, your response is exactly what I needed. As I mentioned earlier, this project is still in the planning stage. As with Swallow, I was captivated by the looks of the boat. Details to be worked out as I went along. My hope is to build a reasonably accurate recreation but if necessary, I will fully plank her and hide my errors. -
Drifts
tlevine replied to tlevine's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thanks, Druxey. -
Drifts
tlevine replied to tlevine's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thanks for the explanation. -
Drifts
tlevine replied to tlevine's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thanks for the suggestion, Allan. I discovered that a drift is a type of fastener that is wider at the head than at the toe. Jaager, I am not quite sure I understand what you mean by long arm/short arm. -
I am in the process of developing the next build, Glad Tidings, from Chapelle's plans. Half of the frames are connected to each other by floors. The other half have no visible means of support. On the plan it states "Floors drifted to keel and deadwood." What is meant by "drifts"? Does anyone know how the remaining frames would be secured to the keel? The frames are so lightweight (1.75" x 2.5") that I would think bolting them to the keel at the foot would compromise the frame.
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Preac fence still in production? I assume this is an aftermarket product since the company no longer exists.
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La Palme by Tobias - 1:36 - POF
tlevine replied to Tobias's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
In the States it is called sanding sealer. There are several brands, both acrylic and solvent based. Beautiful work, as always. -
Don't worry about the frame tops at this point. They can always be levelled later, when there is no risk of damaging them. As I recall, I used a flat disc sander on my Dremel to bring them to their final height. Looking good.
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This is the same area from the Atalanta 1775 plan. Although it is a little hard to see on this screenshot, the mast partners only extend halfway across the beams.
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As there is little camber, I took a 2" x 4" piece of 1/4" plywood and glued two different grits of sandpaper to it for fairing. That eliminates the round-over problem. Looking good.
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I frame out the gunport before applying the hull planking. You can use a stick, cut to the correct dimensions, to act as a template to build the gunport around.
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Recently, I have been taking jewelry-making courses. The sole purpose was to learn how to solder correctly. I previously used the same paste as you do, Greg, having had the same problem with solder shifting out of position. Now I use medium or hard silver sheet solder and flux almost exclusively. I discovered that my biggest problem was lack of patience. The metal need to be heated slowly and from a distance. This allows the flux to dry, holding the solder chips in place. At that point, "come in for the kill" and heat the piece just enough to allow the solder to flow.
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