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Everything posted by tlevine

  1. I am very sorry about the problems you have had. The warpage should not cause any problem with the bulkhead assembly or plank installation. Drop me a PM if something is not coming together right.
  2. Sometimes things look better in photographs; the fastenings look better in real life. I was afraid it would be garish looking but the bolts are scale size (#77 drill bit) and so blend in nicely with the planking.
  3. The coppering on the starboard side is now finished. You can see the difference between the port side with a finish applied and the starboard with none. I have decided to delay applying the finish until the wale has been redone. While doing research for another project, I discovered that the coamings were built several inches too short (8 inches instead of 13). You can see the difference in the picture below. Time to rebuild them all.
  4. Having bought neither (so I have no right to have an opinion 😁) I would suggest continuing the blocks and stopping the rope. As many people have already said, it is a lot harder to make blocks than rope. One of the things that makes your rope so special is the thread that you use. It lays up much nicer than cotton thread. Have you considered selling bolts of the thread so others can make rope of your quality?
  5. If I am drilling holes smaller than #75, I want that hole to be the correct diameter and with a crisp outline. Most of the smaller drill bits placed in a Dremel with a micro chuck or Proxxon have some "shimmy", resulting in oversized holes. For this reason, I almost exclusively use resharpened carbide drill bits for the smaller sizes. I have been using Drill Bit City https://drillcity.stores.yahoo.net/ for years. They are located in the Chicago area.
  6. Putting aluminum or ferrous materials in pickle "poisons" it. That is why pickle pots are ceramic. Since you put that strainer in the pot, you should throw out the pickle before using it again. They make inexpensive copper strainers for bartenders.
  7. If Toni starts forgetting stuff she's got some serious issues!
  8. Sorry for the late reply. I posted yesterday but for some reason it did not "take". You are correct. The bevel continuously changes from the keel to the top of the planking, ending up at 90 degrees, just like a mortice. Think of it this way... On a typical kit build, you undercut the end of the plank so that it lays flat against the stem; at the keel you do the same thing to the side of the plank. On a real ship, the ends and sides of the plank remain at right angles to the face of the plank. To accomplish this, we need a groove, or rabbet, to seat the end or side of the plan
  9. I can't answer your question but looking at the pictures it appears that the fourth frame in is tilted starboard.
  10. Why not make your own? In my opinion, the markings on the vertical support and base are too broad and too far apart to give more than "eyeball" accuracy anyway.
  11. Keep going. Your skills will continue to improve with practice and patience. Whenever I look at one of my models, all I see are the flaws, not the overall beauty in the end result and the joy (frustration/angst) of its construction.
  12. Thanks for looking in everyone. Yes, Greg, those fashion pieces gave me fits. As I recall, I made them four times. Hopefully the starboard side won't take as long!
  13. I have finally finished installing the rivets on the port side. As these would have been hand forged, I used square copper wire fit into a size 77 hole. After all the wires were inserted, the hull looked like a porcupine on a bad hair day. In the photos, I have started to flatten the heads using a flat file and rotary sanding disc on the Dremel. Once all the heads were flattened, I finished up with 400 grit sandpaper. Once the sanding and filing was completed, I put a coat of Watco's on the finished side. After both sides are completed I will add a second coa
  14. It is wonderful hearing from you. Sorry to hear of your real life problems. Wishing you the best in 2021. Hopefully you will be able to resume Kingfisher soon.
  15. It has been a while since the last post. Putting all the bolts in the planks is a right royal pain in the you-know-where. At this point I am half-way through one side. Once the side is done, I will put up some photos.
  16. It isn't the first time and it certainly won't be the last! 😁 Seriously, Stephen, I am more than happy to answer any questions about the half-hull kit. Let me also encourage you to join the Guild. The quarterly Journal is a good source of modeling information as well as maritime history. And as Ryland says, members receive a discount on all the products in the store. But the Guild is much more than that. It is an organization comprised of like-minded individuals who want to promote and enhance our hobby of model ship building.
  17. Take a look at this post to show you how to set up a build log, Richard.
  18. Bob, I never said boiling. I said low heat. It heats the saucepan and the water adds weight to prevent tipping. Back when I was a teenager I used a curling iron all the time...on my hair. Got burnt more times than I care to remember. But we all have our unique techniques.
  19. Might I suggest various diameter sauce pans instead of the rolling pin. It is much easier to secure the plank to the rim of the sauce pan with clamps or bull-dog clips than to a solid surface, such as the rolling pin. This works well for me. 1. Secure the end of the plank to the rim of the sauce pan. 2. Put a few inches of water into the pan and put the pan on low heat (this will warm the plank without much risk of getting burnt). 3. Gently bend the plank around the pan with one hand while using a hair dryer in the other hand to supply more heat and airflow. 4. Overbend the plank to comp
  20. Your water stain is probably a glue stain. If so, it has most likely soaked into the wood. Why do you heat the plank after gluing? Is it possible to remove that plank without damaging the surrounding planks? If you used white or yellow glue, isopropyl alcohol will dissolve the glue securing the planks to allow you to remove and replace them.
  21. May I also suggest you take a look at the other Swan class builds. Putting spacers between the toptimbers made the hull quite solid. In particular, check out Dan Vada's Fly.
  22. Dan, never worry about pointing out an error. The drawing in Goodwin's Alert is wrong...no confusion there. Thanks for the reference. I will try and get a copy.
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