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tlevine

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Everything posted by tlevine

  1. tlevine
    I would apply the finishing wood last. That way it will cover up any dings that occur along the way.
  2. tlevine
    Another place to look is the Half Hull Planking Project. This was designed for novice modelers.
  3. tlevine
    The first post is the hardest. Welcome to MSW!
  4. tlevine
    I have no experience with this wood. How hard is it? I would probably use it for things like hatch covers rather than pillars.
  5. tlevine
    Have you considered photoetching thin sheet brass?
  6. tlevine
    At the top of the deck plan there is the comment "the ticked lines and those in green are proposed alterations, the others are as she is now". Also, look where the magazine lantern is in location to the faint word "magazine".
  7. tlevine
    That hull is looking very nice.
  8. tlevine
    Take a look at Swallow 1779. She was a 14 gun brig, originally built as a merchant ship but bought by the Navy during construction. (link with my signature)
  9. tlevine
    The updated version has been added to the Resources section.
  10. tlevine
    I use Danish Oil for all of my models. My Hannah was made from pear (not swiss pear). It darkened the wood slightly but brought out the character of the grain.
  11. tlevine
    I received a shipping notice today.
  12. tlevine
    I find size 10 crochet hooks to be very useful with rigging. Readily found in sewing stores and Amazon.
  13. tlevine
    Take a look at the build log for the NRG rigging kit. The second fanciest tool is a fan showing the distance between ratlines. The two things you need to acquire are information about which lines are served and a serving machine. Of the ones commercially available today, Syren's is the best by far.
  14. tlevine
    First, welcome to MSW. What is your interest? Kits come with sufficient materials to make the boat. As a novice, learn the skills first, then concern yourself with the "best" materials. That is a concern for kit bashers and scratch builders.
  15. tlevine
    Like your taste in moral support. I would suggest going low tech... Hold the material in your hand and shape it with a file.
  16. tlevine
    It is what I use.
  17. tlevine
    I use warm Sparex prior to blackening. I typically let it soak for 5-10 minutes and then dip the part in water before blackening. Keep in mind that you need to use copper or wood tongs to remove the parts from the Sparex.
  18. tlevine
    How many times have we all "been there, done that"!
  19. tlevine
    I put everything that needs blackening in the Sparex. Mix up a batch, keep a lid on the pot and plug it in whenever you need it. Just remember, copper tongs are required to remove anything from it.
  20. tlevine
    I have the best luck by soaking the parts in warm Sparex, followed by a dip in water and then in a 1:5 solution of Birchwood Casey to water. I give them several short dips of 15-30 seconds with polishing in between. Finally, they get a thin coat of Dulcote.
  21. tlevine
    Welcome to MSW! Some people prefer to rig fore to aft. Others, just the opposite. A good rule of thumb for deciding whether a line is found port and starboard vs. one side only is to consider what each line is used for. As far as making masts, take a look at this. Scroll down to installment 20.
  22. tlevine
    The cannon files are available on the NRG website in the Resources section. https://thenrg.org/page-1075420 Thanks, Ron.
  23. tlevine
    Absolutely! And thank you for the donation.
  24. tlevine
    Liver of sulfur works on copper and silver, not brass.
  25. tlevine
    If you put an oil based finish on the deadeye before placing it into the chainplate, you can put the deadeye/chain plate assembly into Birchwood Casey without staining the deadeye.

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