garyshipwright
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Everything posted by garyshipwright
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Thanks Dusan. I have three of the direct grinder around the shop. Never thought of them as grinder' but makes sense. Have one in a stand, one in a vandalay router table and one that I use free hand much like you did. Pain in the butt if you only have one and moving it around. I had a few dremel motor tools over the year's, but after buying the first proxxon motor tool I retired all of the dremel. The proxxon are really quiet compared to the dremel which screams and just got tired of the sound it make's. The only item that I still use in the dremel department is the bit's and the angle attachment which is so much easier getting in to tight places and using ear plugs to block all of the screaming. Wish proxxon made a 90 degree one, that you could mount the drill chuck to, now that would be nice. One would never have to turn on another screamer. Again thanks Dusan. Gary -
Thank you Dusan. Have most of those item's accept the proxxon sander. Think I just may have to get one of those. Thanks again . Gary
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Hi Dusan. Your building is just outstanding and really look's good that's for sure. I have a question on the inside of her which has to do with the inside wall's. In post 69 you showed the inside fairing and it is even and look's great. Can you give us just a bit of info on how you got them looking so good. Maybe what tool's you may of used to get them that way. Keep up the really impresses work and will be watching your build. Gary
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Hi No Idea. Just so the good folks don't run out and buy what you shown in https://www.foredom.net/product/a-69224-right-angle-attachment/ you also have to get the head piece which hold what you have shown in in the angle attachment. Those are just the collect's for holding the bits. Both items together will run you around $200 .https://www.foredom.net/product/2-angle-grinder-attachment/?attribute_pa_sku-handpiece=ak69110-no-handpiece Gary
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Thanks guys. At the moment am working on the wales and once I have them cleaned up I paint them with a black dye. Figure painting them now before I add any more planking, would keep me from making a mess. Later will paint the gun ports red but have to figure out what shade of red would fit her time frame. So many shades to pick from, makes one head spin trying to get that just right. Again thank you guys. Gary
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Hi Glen. I always thought that the planks used was depended on what they had in the ship yard which was from 25 feet to 50 feet and were the joint's fell depended on the ship wright who was in charge of building her. I have looked at the plans but will probably go with how I want to lay them but Chuck's plan is a good start. I do thank you for the info on how Chuck laid them out and will keep it in mind. Once again thank you good sir. Gary
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Thanks Glenn. You are right and the plank's joints should follow a consistent pattern along with a pattern for when they installed the nail's along with the treenails in to the planks, which depended on the width of the plank. As far as the bow cap rail templates, I printed them out and glue them to some pear wood to see if the bow was right. One good thing about adding the balsa blocks, one has more of a choice on where the joints go. One thing am wondering about is what is the length of the strakes them self? Well time to open a book and research that one. Again thank you. Gary
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Hi Dusan and thank you. At this point am looking forward to that part, the planking and probably plank her in boxwood. Thank you and all the other's for all the nice comments and thumbs up. Gary
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Well hello Trussben and thank you good sir.
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Thanks Rusty.
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Hi Chuck and thank you very very much. Hope so, should be interesting. One thing is for sure it sure was a lot of sanding on top of sanding. I know, I know, if I hadn't added all the wood in between the bulkhead's, the sanding probably would have been done in half the time, but does make for a better landing for the planking and allow's one to put the joints in a few different places. At least that is my opinion Now it's time to get to work on the planking. The counter planking fit perfect so good job on the parts and pieces. They really do make thing's go a lot faster.
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Well good folk's if any one is interested do believe that I have finished chapter one and taking a good look at chapter 2 which should be very interesting. Hope you like the photo's of her as she stand's. Didn't post to much of the gun ports and other item's with all the ones already being shown in the other member's build log's. Hope she up to you good folks very high level in your build's. She has been a joy so far in her build. Gary
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Well here is a update on my Winchelsea if any one is interested. I filled in between all the bulkheads with balsa wood and started to send the bulkheads and balsa down to shape. Once I got it close enough to the finally shape, I made some water line templates with height stand's to help put the template at its right height and then marked for sanding down. Take's a little longer but help's keep me from sanding off to much.
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Alan where is the PDF? I seem to be having a slight problem finding it. Thank you sir. Gary
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Hi No Ideal. Just wonder where you can find the right size needle's of 1.5, 1.75. or .021,.03 and .036 or .56mm, 78mm .94 mm. I have looked for those sizes but can not find them. If you know where they are I would be happy in buying some. Thank you in advance. Gary
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That's what I thought. Went to Greenwich and got one from them for about 50 plus shipping. It's of the class and has the body plan and water lines one need's to build her, if he uses them. Should be here in a couple of week's.
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Kevin she look's really good and the finish really bring's out planking job. Good job . Gary
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Thank you sir. Well long story short, on the draft, they can't print out any thing bigger then A4 and being that the ship draft is a whole lot longer. They said I could get a computer print HD which I would have to down loaded and take it to the printers to blow it back up. That part is ok until they told me it was a 176 dollar's for the scan. I just cancel the order think I just take the misses out for dinner. O well. Gary
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Hi Chuck. Have a couple of question on the stern timber's. Do you know what the round aft of those timbers are post to be and is all of the stern timber's at the bottom of them the same height where the go in to frame 29? I read through chapter 1 and couldn't find a answer so hoping some of the good folks along with your self may just have a answer to this. Looking for answer and is a whole lot easier adjusting and fine turning them while they are lose. In the mean time will look through some really good log's for answer's. Thanks good sir. Gary
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Well I got got a little bit done with all the bulkheads cut out and dry fitted. Have now started installing them with some hide glue which gives me a little time to adjust them once installed. The hide glue is a little slower in drying so you have just a bit more time. I know most have seen hundred of this so I will keep marching on. Gary
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why not just use plastic tubing paint black. Yes guy's I know it's plastic but it still scratch built. 😁
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Guys am selling my hog made by Vanda Lay. Run's like a champ and work's like a clock. Figure it was time for a up grade to the Byrnes thickness sander which has a 6 inch table and the hog only has a three inch table. If your interested send me a PM and we can talk about the price and shipping. Probably should have cleaned it up and that will be done if it finds a new home. Interest party's only please. Gary
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Thanks Hubac. If I told you it took me just about a month on and off with every thing else. Now all I have to do is make the aft one in 2 week's. 😊probably not
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Ben she really looks good and maybe just maybe mine will come out half as good. Really love the look and she is top notch that's for sure. I take it that your lower part of the hull is planked with holly? Helps bring out the hull really nicely. Gary
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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