garyshipwright

Hi No Ideal. Just wonder where you can find the right size needle's of 1.5, 1.75. or .021,.03 and .036 or .56mm, 78mm .94 mm. I have looked for those sizes but can not find them. If you know where they are I would be happy in buying some. Thank you in advance. Gary

That's what I thought. Went to Greenwich and got one from them for about 50 plus shipping. It's of the class and has the body plan and water lines one need's to build her, if he uses them. Should be here in a couple of week's.

Kevin she look's really good and the finish really bring's out planking job. Good job . Gary

Thank you sir. Well long story short, on the draft, they can't print out any thing bigger then A4 and being that the ship draft is a whole lot longer. They said I could get a computer print HD which I would have to down loaded and take it to the printers to blow it back up. That part is ok until they told me it was a 176 dollar's for the scan. I just cancel the order think I just take the misses out for dinner. O well. Gary

Hi Chuck. Have a couple of question on the stern timber's. Do you know what the round aft of those timbers are post to be and is all of the stern timber's at the bottom of them the same height where the go in to frame 29? I read through chapter 1 and couldn't find a answer so hoping some of the good folks along with your self may just have a answer to this. Looking for answer and is a whole lot easier adjusting and fine turning them while they are lose. In the mean time will look through some really good log's for answer's. Thanks good sir. Gary

Well I got got a little bit done with all the bulkheads cut out and dry fitted. Have now started installing them with some hide glue which gives me a little time to adjust them once installed. The hide glue is a little slower in drying so you have just a bit more time. I know most have seen hundred of this so I will keep marching on. Gary

why not just use plastic tubing paint black. Yes guy's I know it's plastic but it still scratch built. 😁

Guys am selling my hog made by Vanda Lay. Run's like a champ and work's like a clock. Figure it was time for a up grade to the Byrnes thickness sander which has a 6 inch table and the hog only has a three inch table. If your interested send me a PM and we can talk about the price and shipping. Probably should have cleaned it up and that will be done if it finds a new home. Interest party's only please. Gary

Thanks Hubac. If I told you it took me just about a month on and off with every thing else. Now all I have to do is make the aft one in 2 week's. 😊probably not

Ben she really looks good and maybe just maybe mine will come out half as good. Really love the look and she is top notch that's for sure. I take it that your lower part of the hull is planked with holly? Helps bring out the hull really nicely. Gary

Well Kurtis hate to say it sir but the two hardest parts on the ship is the stern and bow. Have to agree with you and working on the other stuff should give you time to figure out those area's. For me I have been trying for years to figure them out and still get a headache. They do take a lot of time that's for sure

Kurtis you can get the Anatomy of the ship Bellona from Abe books for about $30. It says that it's used but looks to be in good shape. A lot of those measurements come's from A book that Sea Watch has called Scantlings of Royal Navy Ships 1719-1805 by Allan Yedlinsky who is a member here on the site. Cost about $45. You might even see a few other books that could help you with your build. If you really want to get in to the how Vol one and two of the fully framed model HMN swan Class. Even through its a Sloops it breaks down all of the parts and pieces, giving the names of the timber's which will help you figure out your 74 and even show's how to figure out the head rails. Can't have enough info when it comes to those rail's. I could draw you a drawing of the head if need be and attached the measurements to it. Let me know.

well good sir it's a bit complicated, It seems to have taken me three tries making the barrel, didn't like the darker color wood and then the next one my measurment were way off, don't know how that happen, guess I zigged insteads of zagging. For me it was the whelp's because they not only taper going up but taper going back. The other thing with them is trying to get the scores on the sides of them to line up with each other. Then again I just might of made it complicated.

Thanks Albert and for the likes to. Hope that the next update won't be as long in coming. Gary

Hi Mark that was the other one I was thinking about, just couldn't remember it so thank you Mark. Kurtis I saw some for $20 on line and up , should be a big help when searching ship terms. Gary

Hi Kurtis. The part that you talk about the runs completed through the ship is the keel. It did in fact taper from the middle to both ends being 18 inches squared in the middle,14" at the gripe and 12 1/2" at the forward edge of the rudder. The area where the crew took care of their business was a small deck which had seat's of ease, better known as toilets, and was called the beakhead . As far as finding out what the gripe in todays dictionary, does not exist so what you need is a dictionary from the 18th century like Falconer Universal Dictionary of the Marine. Can't remember other one's but there out there. I took a picture of the 74 gun ship Bellona which shows the parts of the knee of the head along with the other parts that make up the knee. Some thing about figure B3/2 at the top is the stem at it widest at the top and shows that it also get's tapered going down to the keel(item 1) . In front of the stem is the knee of the head once it has been tapered. Photo B3/2 show's a head on view of the taper from the stem- (item 3) to the seat of the figure head ( item 16) . the taper also goes from the Gripe (Item 6) at the bottom of the knee to the seat of the figure head( item 16) I also added another couple of photo's showing how the rail's was done. The photo's should help you and if you need any more info or just what a word means just let me know. When I started building them the biggest hurdle was figuring out what word went with what item of the ship. Thought I was going to go bonkers trying to figure them out. Gary

Hi Kurtis. Am not sure what information you have on the knee of the head but the place where the figure head set's is only 5". It tapers from the stem which is 1' 4 1/2" down to the 5 inch's. It also tapers from the Gripe which is a part of the whole knee and is the lowest part which is attach to the front of the keel and is taper going up from 14"down to 5 inches where the figure head sit. If you don't show the taper it probably throw off the placement of the rail's. Hope am not stepping on any one toes but just wanting to help were I can. She looks great and wish I could do this type of work on the computer but am sort of the drafting table type guy. Do hope this is some help to you. Gary

Looking good Alan. Seems good sir you are getting them done a lot faster then I did. Of course am a slow poke. Just goes to show you after cutting the first one the rest are a piece of cake. Gary

Hi Alan, Looking forward to seeing your photo update. Gary

Well hello Mike. Been a while since we last talk and wonder what you been up to. You know you been working on Agamemnon as long as I can remember. Hoping with Chuck making a lot of the part's maybe just maybe I just might get her finish in a couple of years. Of course that also depends on the time invested in working on Montague which may take just a little bit longer. Have been keeping a eye on this build, waiting for Chuck to get far enough a head and a lot of the bug's worked out. I must say he has done a heck of a job on this ship. Am sure that there are really great kits to build out there but have settled on this one. Another thing is the price of the build is broken down over time which makes it a lot easier to pay for with out the misses making me walk the plank. It's like comparing it to buying a set of expensive plans, cost a lot but when you break them down for the amount of time it take's you to build it it like pennies on the dollar, It should be interesting and lot of fun to build.

Thanks Chuck

Well good sir's I just about have the forward capstan completed, just need to add a few more items to the upper capstan and then I can get started on the main one. Gary

Well guy's after a couple of weeks I finally finished the build board and the Center keel. The plywood for the bulkheads should be here tomorrow and I can get started on them. Between the two, the Winchelsea and the Montague, they should keep me busy.

Outstanding Greg. You really know how to build a very beautful ship.

Looking good Dave real good