garyshipwright
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Hi Guy. They are Model Shipwright issues 41, 42 and 48, by John Franklin. -
Alan just a queston good sir. Why not remove the transom you have fitted and fit the counter timber's first then install the transom to fit them. I made all of my stern timber's first and then fitted the transom. Take the stern timbers in shape and using rubber cement or Pva which ever you choose to glue them all to each other with thin pieces of balsa wood in between the pieces and then sand all of them down at one time. Mark them out with numbers from right to left and reinstall them in order. I found this so much easier fitting the stern timbers first then the transom. there is a whole lot more stern timbers then transom that's for sure. Hope this help's you.
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Hi druxey. One can not have to many toy's sorry I meant tool's. Beside I need them to fix my capstan. 😊Gary
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Hi Jack. I just handed my wife my Christmas list and asked her if santa could bring me the set if possible. Now all I have to do is wait for Christmas to get here. Gary
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Thanks Jaager. Do you know which monographs they were. I have a number of them which I just may go take a look in. Looks like you done your research and thank you very much for the info. Am trying to get colors that are right or least very very close to what was used. Seems there is a lot of them to choose from which lead's to getting the wrong color. Thank you again. Gary
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Thanks Chris that makes sense. Will see about getting your paint in the future. Gary
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Hi Chris. Just a question good sir. I know you been doing this ship building and making kit's for quite awhile and you have my utmost respect, but was wondering why these color's? You must of done a lot of research on what color's to use but curious mind's at least mine, was wondering why these. I have not really been into painting my ships and just go with the natural wood but am building Chuck's Winchelsea which there are items that need to be painted which is why am asking about your color's. Thank you. Gary
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Thanks Frank. Guess that's me and deviating is some times good for the soul. It allow's us to show a different side of the journey we take. I did mention to Chuck that I might be doing different item's a bit different, but try to keep Winchelsea changes on the small side. Always found it hard to do when trying to coping another's work down to the last nail so you will have to forgive me on that one. Gary
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Thanks Glenn you are so right. Only 4 month's left to go according to you time frame. I know only kidding. Spent a month putting on planks just to turn around and take all that was installed off in 15 minutes. Wonder if that set the record for the fastest time in removing planks. Ok Just kidding😉 Am having a good time and that's what count's. Gary
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Thanks Greg and Ben. One thing is for sure planking her is a little bit of a long process. Of course I start at the 2nd plank below the wale and got the first belt planked on both side's and when you would look at it head on it just was not up to par, kind of bumpy so I tore it all off back up to the wale and figure it couldn't hurt to start at the keel this time. Also I was going to plank her lower hull in Holly but the gray kept showing up, and just wasn't happy with it, so am planking her in boxwood. Also got myself a new propotional divider to help with the planking and using it is really making a big difference with marking out the planks instead of tick strips. My first divider, used it for years that is until the tighten nut strip out and couldn't find a new one. O well one has to do what one has to do.
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Hello just a small update to the planking.
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Hi Mark. Hope your starting to feel better and getting back to work on Sphinx which by the way is looking great. Keep up the good work. Gary
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Thank you Mr Bean. Maybe some day I hope to do the carvings but that one is for the future. Again thank you. Gary
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No worry's Ken. Just taken a break from her. Working on Winchelsea let's me work on some thing different like her planking and other part's and pieces. Thank you for the compliment and your not doing a bad job your self. Gary
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So far so good and do hope the photo's will be helpful in your planking. Gary
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Hi Ken. Hope these are some help to you. If you want a better photo of in a different place on her let me know will you please. Gary
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Ken usually the garboard strake next to the keel is a little on the finicky side. It widen's at the stern post and decreases at the stem. You don't want it getting to far up the stem and usually doesn't go to far past the joint between the stem and the keel, maybe 6 inches. but each boat and ship are different here. Once you get that one to your liking the rest of them should be a lot easier. If I get a chance I will take a photo of the one am doing on my Winchelsea which may be of some help to you. Gary
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Thanks Druxey. I was sort of a newbe to the party and showed you a photo of my Richard. Of course some one forgot to tell me who the real ship builders were at that time. 😲It was a lot of fun and I will be glad when the NRG has another one in either place, which would make me one happy camper. Gary
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Hi Ken. You may of already did this but what about breaking your hull up in to belt's. Am building Chuck's Winchelsea and he breaks up the hull below the wale in to 4 belt's of planking. Once you find the belts just take and using very fine tape, mark off the placement of that belt. Am using 1/64 that I got off of amazon and the belts are really making it so much easier planking the hull. Once you have your belt's located you can break each belt down to the number of plank's that will cover that belt, using a propotional divider or tick strip. Just look down the hull on that belt line and you will see where it needs to be adjusted. Take a tick strip and mark out the width of the belt, then using a planking fan you can find the number of planks in that belt. I like using a propotional divider because for me it's more accurate then using a tic strip because some times I make my tick mark's a little on the thick side. That really makes the plank a little on the wide side. Hope this is of some help to you good sir. Gary
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Kurt you may ask Jim when you get ready to send it to him about keeping those parts for the Preac saw. He has a big heart about this thing's. Gary
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Hi Kurt. I got my Preac in 2000 I believe at the Chicago NRG conference or was it the the Mariner's Museum can't remember which one. Charlie was still with us and we talked about his saw and getting one. Also meet David and Greg there with my daughter and misses. Believe she was 2. Do remember some one wasn't happy that we had brought our daughter to the conference, but every thing turned out ok. I also went to the 2010 which I believe was the Chicago one. What your seeing is just a piece of wood that is setting between the fence and blade which is for keeping the blade from cutting in to the fence. I did do one Mod to my Preac once I had all the pieces. My Byrnes saw came with the first mic that Jim installed on them which I got from him in 2002. When I sent my table in to Jim I had removed the old mic and rail along with its brackets from the table and mounted it to the Preac. You have to drill holes and thread them for the brackets, which keeps the rail in place, but it wasn't to bad at all. It worked good until I sold it to a good friend who brought it for his shop. I had them set up like you have your's for doing different cutting but I didn't use it much and figure selling it at a cost one could afford it, would be worth while. He also brought the hog and shipping which cost sometimes more then what you want for it just stop good folks from buying them if they lived to far away.
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Hi Allan. You must be talking about the transom and the counter timber's David has a good article in vol 2 of his TFFM book, page 9/11. EdT also has a good article in his book of the Naiad Frigate vol two chapter 20. When I built Montague/Alfred I followed John Franklin articles in Model Shipwright Part 2 page 29. Just a ideal on how to get the curve aft and the curve up, first make the curve up on the right size piece of wood, thickness wise and then cut out the curve aft. I added some photo's that might help you. Gary
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Hi Keith. As far as the blade guard I took mine off when I first got the saw and as you said, one has to be a lot more careful. To make up for the missing guard I use push stick's to keep my fingers a good distance from the blade. I also have a 10 inch table say but the guard stays on because it float's above the table and is also part of the dust collection. Works' great. I did just order the thin strip saw jig for my Byrnes saw. Should give me a nice cut plank using it. I don't think I have seen any one putting the top flush with the bench surface, and would like to see how they did it.
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Hi Bob. Our prayers go with you and may God watch over you and keep you safe during these trying times. Gary
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