garyshipwright

Well good folks  after a few health problems with me and the misses the hull is finally fully planked.  Now it just needs a good sanding and a nice finish and hope all the work pay's off.  

Mike I would add another item to Greg accessories which will be a good one and that's the Sensitive  Drilling Attachment. Great when you drilling a lot of holes using very small drill bit's.  They really do make a lot of good accessories thats for sure. Gary

Mike I would add another item to Greg accessories which will be a good one and that's the Sensitive  Drilling Attachment. Great when you drilling a lot of holes using very small drill bit's.  They really do make a lot of good accessories thats for sure. Gary

Well good folks  after a few health problems with me and the misses the hull is finally fully planked.  Now it just needs a good sanding and a nice finish and hope all the work pay's off.  

Well good folks  after a few health problems with me and the misses the hull is finally fully planked.  Now it just needs a good sanding and a nice finish and hope all the work pay's off.  

Well good folks  after a few health problems with me and the misses the hull is finally fully planked.  Now it just needs a good sanding and a nice finish and hope all the work pay's off.  

Mike I would add another item to Greg accessories which will be a good one and that's the Sensitive  Drilling Attachment. Great when you drilling a lot of holes using very small drill bit's.  They really do make a lot of good accessories thats for sure. Gary

Well good folks  after a few health problems with me and the misses the hull is finally fully planked.  Now it just needs a good sanding and a nice finish and hope all the work pay's off.  

Mike I would add another item to Greg accessories which will be a good one and that's the Sensitive  Drilling Attachment. Great when you drilling a lot of holes using very small drill bit's.  They really do make a lot of good accessories thats for sure. Gary

Well good folks  after a few health problems with me and the misses the hull is finally fully planked.  Now it just needs a good sanding and a nice finish and hope all the work pay's off.  

Good morning.

Slowly getting there. Installed two short outer counter timbers as seen in the photo below, two more slightly longer ones to go.
 
I also made and installed the roundhouse counter beam. I made it to size, assuring I didn't transpose the radii which is easier done then one would want to admit, and then I marked off and chiselled a groove on the inboard side for the deck planks. I measured up 5-1/2", the height of the roundhouse beams and marked that, then measure up 2-1/2", the height of the deck planks and marked that.  Used a micro chisel to cut out a trough between the scribed marks.
 
This is different from the way I had done all my scrap pieces.  The plan shows the piece as having a nose extension that the deck runs under. I found these to make the part fragile with the counter timber notches cut in. This time I decided to assume a deck beam was under the nose and the whole thing was a bit stronger for it.
 
I'll get those last two short counter timbers made and installed and then do the quarter deck and upper deck counter beams. Then cut out the quarter gallery doorways.

So all the aft cant frames are in as well as the first full frames 24a and 24f.  I have also dry fitted 23a as well as Keelson 6 and the sternum knee to see how things are progressing.  Some minor fitting to be done between 23a, 24f and the keelson to neatly fit the taper.
I have also done a preliminary fairing of the frames from transom to 24f and all looks well so far.
I am now turning my attention to the bow with the bollard and hawse pieces to be scrolled out today as well as frames Va and Vf.

Continuation: Main topsail yard - studding sail boom iron - Cercle de bout-dehors de vergue
I continued with the studding sail boom irons for the main topsail yard. Since I had thoughtlessly started to make the rings, I forgot to make the bulge for the rollers. Since these rings were already soldered, I tried to solder on this bulge, which then also worked quite well and the even result became more precise.
As they say: the proof of the pudding is in the eating ...😁
 
The following picture shows the rings with the parts to be soldered on.

Here on this picture you can see my " soldering station ".


On the ceramic hole plate you can fix the parts to be soldered quite well.


The jeweler's saw is then used to remove the segments of the rings that are not necessary.


The next picture shows the drilling of the roller bearings with a 0.5 mm drill.


In the picture, all studding sail boom iron for the main topsail yard are united before blacking. The inside diameters of the spar hangers for the fore topsail yard are 2.7 mm, while those for the main topsail yard are 3.2 mm.


For blackening, I still use Brass Black, as I have had very good experiences with this agent. I coat the parts with a brush until they get the desired coloration. This proven method of working allows me to use the agent very sparingly.


The last two pictures show the studding sail boom irons already mounted to the main topsail yard.


Next, I make the irons for the fore yard. At the same time, I'm researching other equipment for the yards, such as attachment of the footropes, jackstays - yes or no, and so on.
See you soon ...
 

Albert she is looking good , like most of your outstanding build's. Really enjoy seeing the build up of the back bone and frames on ships'. Thanks for sharing your build with us.  Gary

Albert she is looking good , like most of your outstanding build's. Really enjoy seeing the build up of the back bone and frames on ships'. Thanks for sharing your build with us.  Gary

Thanks Frank. Guess that's me and deviating is some times good for the soul. It allow's us to show a different  side of the journey we take. I did mention to Chuck that I might be doing different item's a bit different, but try to keep Winchelsea changes on the small side. Always found it hard to do when trying to coping another's work down to the last nail so you will have to forgive me on that one. Gary

Hello good folks. Seems like I have been doing this for every, planking that is. Don't think it's to bad, not perfect, but planking was always the hardest for me when it came to building and planking a hull.  Maybe that's why I stick to building them, plank on frames, with out planking the lower hull.  Figure building Chucks hull gave me a chance to practice this part of the hobby. Not the best but that's ok. After a couple of month's, have manage to get 3 belts per side done, and  now facing what I believe to be the hardest belt to come. Looking at the landing of the counter planks and where the lower planks on the hull meet, will be a big test of getting the planking just right.  A sort of do or die I believe. Hoping that it will come out looking good but will have to wait and see. I have to line this belt off yet, which should be a big help doing it. Still a lot of sanding to do once the last belt is on and finally putting a finish on.  

Lower mast futtock staves and ratlines.

Hi Peter. When I installed Alfred's cant frames , along with clamps and glue I also pined them in place. Once they was good and dry the pin's were removed and tree nail's were installed. Helped keep every thing good and tight. Nice build so far. Gary

Hi Peter. When I installed Alfred's cant frames , along with clamps and glue I also pined them in place. Once they was good and dry the pin's were removed and tree nail's were installed. Helped keep every thing good and tight. Nice build so far. Gary

Hi Peter. When I installed Alfred's cant frames , along with clamps and glue I also pined them in place. Once they was good and dry the pin's were removed and tree nail's were installed. Helped keep every thing good and tight. Nice build so far. Gary

finished up the strakes and began little        planking,also built the platform for the.       gunpowder storage.                                  planked the floor but I'm really.                      debating if I should leave some.                    planking off on the sides so you.                    can view some of the interior.    finally put in the cills around the gun.            ports.

Hello to you, often present on this forum, my participation remains modest due to an insufficient command of English. I set up this topic on the construction of the Belle Poule in the 48th, according to the plans of Jean Boudriot to share the progress of my work with whoever would be interested in this French frigate. The subject has not been followed much, I have not posted for a long time. The construction of this model is progressing, however, slowly but surely. So I come to give some news by the few following photos.
 
Bonjours à vous, souvent présent sur ce forum, ma participation reste modeste en raison d’une maitrise de l’anglais, insuffisante. J’ai  mis en place ce sujet sur la construction de la Belle Poule au 48ème, selon les plans de Jean Boudriot pour partager les avancées de mon travail à qui s’intéresserait à cette frégate française. Le sujet n’ayant pas été beaucoup suivi, je n’ai pas posté depuis longtemps. La construction de ce modèle avance pourtant, lentement mais sûrement. Je viens donc en donner quelques nouvelles par les quelques photos suivante.

Bonjour à vous,
pour répondre à "Wintergreen",   le poirier est le bois employé pour cette frégate .Je le débite à mesure des besoins dans de grosses planches . C'est bien pratique, mais Il faut pour cela un peu d'outillage.
 
Peu d'avancement sur la Belle Poule:
le gouvernail est en place , Le balcon aussi.
Il est réalisé en laiton , assemblé par soudure à l'argent, ce qui est beaucoup mieux que l'étain.Certains modéliste ayant construit la Belle Poule l'ont réalisé en bois (buis) je n'en ai pas les compétences dans ces petites dimensions.Je poste ci-dessous quelques photos de mon chantier.
 
Hello to you,
to answer "Wintergreen", pear is the wood used for this frigate. I cut it as needed in large boards. It's very practical, but it requires some tools.
 
Little progress on the Belle Poule:
the rudder is in place, the balcony too.
It is made of brass, assembled by silver soldering, which is much better than tin. Some modelers who built the Belle Poule made it out of wood (boxwood) I don't have the skills for that in these small dimensions.. I post below some photos of my construction site