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Hubac's Historian

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About Hubac's Historian

  • Birthday 08/11/1973

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    Male
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    New York City
  • Interests
    17th Century Naval Architecture, furniture design and construction with an emphasis on the Art Nouveau period, 20th Century architecture, wood carving, muscle cars, the Knicks, and early American longrifles.

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    Benchmarc_woodworking@yahoo.com

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  1. I may yet do the socks. I just haven’t yet devised a convincing method of representing them. I suspect it can be done, off-model, with modelspan tissue and dilute white glue, formed around a dummy scupper. I just haven’t played around with that material yet.
  2. As a side-note, I think your waist J-hancing pieces should drop down to and overlap the light drift-rail that runs just beneath the waist fighting holes. The fine “liston d’or” that adorns this rail would merely fair into these hancing Js.
  3. Eric - this all looks fantastic. You have gotten right, IMO, the thing that eludes most with the skids: you have not over-scaled their projection from the hull. I also really like your waist ladder cut-through at the timberhead level. This is a very equitable solution to those particular problems of scale. Scuppers are an interesting subject of debate - their number and location. I concentrated my scuppers at the lowest point in the deck sheer - the waist. However - this highly detailed drawing of the 1668 Dauphin Royal supports the notion of scuppers along the rising deck sheer, between the main and mizzen masts: As far as I understand these drawings, there are very fine lines representing the relatively flat deck sheer (relative to the wale sheer), that are punctuated by dark dots that I believe represent the scuppers. Now, as to whether scuppers should always project from the hull sides: At the waist, in particular and below the lowest gun tier, projection from the hull and wales makes sense because these peculiar canvas back-flow sleeves, or socks, would be nailed to the end of the scupper pipes to prevent rolling seas from washing back into the lower decks: Above, said socks run through the waist, beneath the lower main wales and are mostly submerged beneath the waterline. So, maybe higher-sheer, aft-most scuppers were simply flush scuppers because any run-off that didn’t flow back out of them, would just work its way out at the waist?
  4. Completely brilliant and beyond compare, Gary. I smell like fresh catch just looking at it!
  5. It may be possible, but you’d have to map it carefully where ever the tumblehome is least obtrusive; beneath the lower battery ports/along the upper main wale, and above the middle battery ports/along the lower top wale. Even then, it may not work without introducing distortion, or ending up too short at the stern.
  6. As a thought on plastic surgeries - one could remove an 1/8” band of “planking” all along the lower and middle batteries, in an effort to make the height of the Heller hull more reasonable. You could maybe even do this above the main deck guns. There are problems, though, with re-joining through the middle tier of guns where the tumblehome is a reverse curve. I am not at all suggesting that you should try this. There are multiple compounding issues, down the line, that make this very tricky and maybe impossible. It’s just a thought that popped into my head. One of the mitigating factors is that the Heller hull is a bit longer than it should be for the first ship, so that makes her height seem a little more proportional. In the end, what you are doing amounts to creating a combination of optical illusions that gives a sense of correctness.
  7. While I agree with piercing the beakhead deck, the thing about Cedric’s comment that I’ve wrestled with is the possibility that the foot of the sprit-mast anchors between fore bit extensions at the lower battery level, as opposed to entering through the beakhead bulkhead and anchoring through bit extensions, at the middle deck level. If I remember, that is precisely what Nigel has modeled on his AL Soleil Royal build. This would account for the higher 40 degree angle that you tend to see on the early First-Marine ships. As I’ve mentioned in our correspondence, though, I think it becomes a matter of prioritizing one thing over the other. What has to be born in mind is the fact that the interspace between decks amounts to a very generous 7’ headroom. This exaggeration, if applied literally to the geometry of the bowsprit angle would be correspondingly exaggerated. I think you pattern your cutwater and headrails so that they are proportionally pleasing to the rest of the bow, and adjust your bowsprit angle accordingly. It won’t be exactly correct, but a reasonable impression of what is more or less correct for the period.
  8. So, the skids look really good - great scribe around the wales. As for scale on the ladder steps - at 1:96 scale, the stock kit steps are a generous 1/32”, or 3” at full scale. Personally, I would not go beyond 1/16”, or 6” at scale, and I would carry that uniformly across the wales.
  9. Here’s a thread on that very subject: Somewhere along the way, I also read that horse hair would be applied as a binder. So, yes, the white stuff would certainly obscure the planking strakes, if not completely obliterate them. You could fill most of what’s there and leave a few faint trace lines, here and there, to suggest the planking. Color, as these fine gentlemen note, would likely have been a dingy, yellowish white.
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