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Hubac's Historian

NRG Member
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About Hubac's Historian

  • Birthday 08/11/1973

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New York City
  • Interests
    17th Century Naval Architecture, furniture design and construction with an emphasis on the Art Nouveau period, 20th Century architecture, wood carving, muscle cars, the Knicks, and early American longrifles.

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    Benchmarc_woodworking@yahoo.com

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  1. Siggi, In my estimation, you can count yourself among the very best in the ship-modeling community. There is, simultaneously, precision of craft and the hand of the maker. Your tiller is a real treat! Best, M
  2. Stunning work, as always, Dan. Portsmouth should build an annex to the Victory museum, and call it “Daniel’s Quarter Gallery”. You have done as much and more than the museum, itself, for understanding of the many iterations of Victory throughout her long life.
  3. I think CAD design and printing are still craftsmanship because they require the same meticulous attention to detail that all good modeling requires. Whether making it by hand or printing it, the part is only going to be as good as the drawing that precedes it.
  4. Oh, I see what you mean now, Bill. Honestly, I marvel at our modeling friends who are mastering CAD/resin printing. I’m pretty far away from tackling anything like that, although I do want to eventually learn drafting software. Your paint bottle experience is very relatable!
  5. Hi Ian - yeah, all is okay here - apart from annoyingly and persistently high cholesterol (how much fiber and Omega3’s can a person reasonably consume?!), I’m doing okay. Life just sped up for me, is all. I was going to do some painting last night. I opened a new (but very old) bottle of what I assumed was ModelMaster acrylic last night. I was trying to thin the paint with water, but it was behaving strangely. It took me far too long to realize that what I actually had was a bottle of enamel. I am curious to see whether all of that water I added simply returns to the surface, overnight. Anyway, I’m at a sort of critical juncture with my 13-year old son, who needs me now more than ever, and my daughter, who will be off to college in a year. Nothing alarming, there, but guidance and support are really necessary, so that is where my energies go.
  6. Hi Bill - I think maybe you intended to be in Daniel’s Victory log? With a lot of windows open all the time, that’s an easy mistake to make. 🙂
  7. Hi Bill - actually, I’m not sure what you mean with regard to designing parts in CAD. I’m simply modifying what came with the kit.
  8. ..Alive and kicking - however, so softly. In the time that I have available, and am ALERT, I make what little progress I can. I’m working on deck furniture. A considerable amount of time was spent, as always, on de-plasticizing the appearance of these parts; flash removal, in-filling of injection mould marks, softening of sharp edges, and general detailing. I wish I were doing more, but life demands are limiting what’s possible. As always, I so appreciate all and anyone that continues to check in, or take a look at the project. Some day, I will finish this one!
  9. You can see these sun emblems worked into the frieze of fleurs, along with alternating harps, on the Monarque:
  10. Hi Eric - it is helpful to double-stick a piece of 150-grit paper to a sanding block, and then use your finger pad to press down lightly while sanding the backs of the castings. This will accomplish two things. It will neatly remove any flash, and it will give you a good mechanical bonding surface for the CA. I don’t think your upper bulwark frieze has to be terribly complicated. You could, however, add a little extra visual interest and a call-out to the name if the vessel, if you made sun castings with the dauphin at center. You can actually pull this detail from the stock quarter galleries, and make really nice moulds - perhaps extracting the sun emblem first, and reducing its perimeter a little, for the sake of scale. Just a thought.
  11. These dolphins are much more proportional, and I think the placement works much better. You raise in interesting point about carving left/right masters. It is definitely important to do the work side by side, in order to see it properly. Definitely, you are going to want to glue the masters to a flat smooth surface, and after you do that you want to scrape away the glue “halo” (squeeze out), so that you get a sharp delineation between the carving and the ground. As for removing the carvings from the existing ground, acetone is the most effective release agent, but that will obviously melt your part. You could waste the wood away from behind with a Dremel sanding drum attachment. Or, you may have to chalk that up to experience and make new masters.
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