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Hubac's Historian

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About Hubac's Historian

  • Birthday 08/11/1973

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New York City
  • Interests
    17th Century Naval Architecture, furniture design and construction with an emphasis on the Art Nouveau period, 20th Century architecture, wood carving, muscle cars, the Knicks, and early American longrifles.

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  • Yahoo
    Benchmarc_woodworking@yahoo.com

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  1.    FriedClams reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  2.    FriedClams reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  3.    EricWiberg reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  4.    wefalck reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  5. Hubac's Historian
    As I say with all of this modification nitty gritty: Comme-ci, comme-ca. A little like this, a little like that. The important thing is to capture the essence of the thing in a fully coherent way, and you have more than achieved that. And, you have the distinction, now, of being the first to radically transform the kit head!
  6.    Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  7.    EricWiberg reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  8. Hubac's Historian
    Coming along really nicely, Eric. As for the painting, my suggestion would be the following: if you still have scrap hulls, I would use them to sort through your color schemes and practice your technique. It will give you confidence, and it will help to demystify the process of getting a professional finish, free of brush-strokes.
  9.    Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  10.    Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic: Sovereign of the Seas by 72Nova - Airfix - PLASTIC
  11.    Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic: Sovereign of the Seas by 72Nova - Airfix - PLASTIC
  12. Hubac's Historian
    That is very much appreciated, Mike!
  13.    Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  14.    EricWiberg reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  15. Hubac's Historian
    Vellum is fantastic because you can erase on it over and over and it won’t disintegrate like regular paper. Once I have a design I like, I clean up as much loose graphite as I can, and I spray the drawing with hairspray as a fixative. I have a whole cache of these drawings that I have made for the model. Accurate scale drawings are indispensable for this kind of scratch work. Otherwise, you end up chasing your tail trying to approximate what’s needed in the available space.
  16.    druxey reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  17.    druxey reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  18.    druxey reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  19.    EricWiberg reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  20.    Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  21. Hubac's Historian
    Oh, I would love to see that!
  22.    Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  23. Hubac's Historian
    I really think you have captured the essence of these early French headrails.
  24. Hubac's Historian
    Good that you checked!
  25.    Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by EricWiberg - Heller - 1/100 - started 45 years ago
  26. Hubac's Historian
    Henry - I’m sorry I missed your post, here. I actually think that I remember this discussion of the main brace on your build-log. Currently, and not very oftenly, I am still detailing the lin-stock tubs. I have decided that I would go through the Heller rigging instructions, line for line, and make notes and sketch modifications that are more representative of the time, referencing Anderson, Lees and Marquardt. Standing rigging first. Running rigging second. That will be my process. I wish that I had more time to really focus on the project, but I find myself pulled in many different directions; finding a college for my daughter, a HS for my son (they are almost exactly 4 years apart), coaching hoop, and protesting what is happening in our country; all of this, among the ordinary and every day stuff. So many of you have been there and beyond, yourselves, so I know you know. Despite the fact that I am not very visibly active on this site, I am still following all of your excellent work. As always, I appreciate all of you for looking-in, your likes, suggestions and comments. All the best, M
  27.    Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic: Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
  28.    Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic: Sovereign of the Seas by 72Nova - Airfix - PLASTIC
  29. Hubac's Historian
    Just incredible!
  30. Hubac's Historian
    I’m so glad that you gave that technique a shot. The results are excellent! Sometimes, it’s just more practical to free-hand the engraving.
  31. Hubac's Historian
    What I have found is that I can lightly trace over my lines with the tip of a very sharp EXACTO blade. Three or four passes of incrementally stronger pressure. The key is to go light on the first couple of passes so that the blade doesn’t wander off the line. After the fourth pass, you’ll have a deep enough groove to use the heel of the blade to scribe. Again - light pressure on the first few scribe passes.
  32. Hubac's Historian
    Generally, shipwrights avoid cutting timbers into long tapering points because those sharp timber ends become much more prone to rotting quickly. This is why deck planking is “joggled” into the margin plank, for example: As it relates to the stem, it is also quite beneficial for the structure of the thing to be inter-locking with the use of hooks and scarfs. I’ve taken the liberty to draw an approximate sketch of your cutwater: Ideally, you don’t want the gammoning holes to cross between timber joins. As for the tapering of the cutwater, Lemineur shows it as a long gradual taper across the full depth of the cutwater: However, he also shows the foot of the cutwater as being full width, while the head of the cutwater (behind the head of the Figurehead) is tapered to half-width: The way to understand this, I think, is that the foot of the cutwater is very shallow in depth, as opposed to the head of the cutwater, which extends some 30’ further, ahead of the stem. From a practical standpoint, you want that taper to be most pronounced at the foot of the cutwater, as it improves water-flow. This is what you have done. I do think, though, that the full depth of the cutwater should have a gradual tapering, back to full width where it meets the stem. What this means is that your cutwater foot will have a much more pronounced looking taper, because you are reducing by anywhere from a 1/3 to a 1/2 width, over a relatively short span: I hope that makes sense.
  33. Hubac's Historian
    Post #167 of Yankee D’s Provincien blog:
  34. Hubac's Historian
    Given that you are showing the full length of the cutwater, I would taper to somewhat more than 2/3 of the width. This is complicated, somewhat, by the variable depth of the cutwater, which shortens, as it approaches the keel. The tapering of the cutwater is part of the reason that I chose to pad out the stem, as you are doing; the extra depth, there, gives you a little more flexibility to massage those transitions. I think you can find good pictorial examples on Drazen’s Provincien blog. If I remember, he has a number of good pictures of his bow and cutwater. The long and short of it is that there are no concrete step-backs for where to begin those tapering transitions. I would estimate conservatively, and work slowly, checking as you go. Trace a centerline down the middle of the leading edge of the cutwater, so that you can remove material uniformly. This is one of those things, where, if it looks right at scale, it is right.
  35. Hubac's Historian
    This is what I did with my cutwater. the leading edge would continue to taper toward its foot, whereas it is full width at the top, just beneath the figurehead: The taper isn’t huge but it is perceptible.

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