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Hubac's Historian

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Everything posted by Hubac's Historian

  1. Hubac's Historian
    It is brilliant stuff, Siggi!
  2. Hubac's Historian
    I used a sanding stick on the backside of the Kevel ears to make a little extra space for the lines to belay.
  3. Hubac's Historian
    .030 is good. I looked back on post #292, and what you did looked picture-perfect to my eyes. At some point in the future, I will write a book about SR, but not the about the Heller kit, in particular. It is my belief that from the Album de Colbert, Dassie’s Architecture Navale (1677), as well as the Le Have du Grace survey of Soleil Royal (prior to her refit), and also the detailed accounting of the re-build estimate, that one can re-construct a credible hull form and interior configuration for SR as she first was in 1670. I am busily translating Dassie, at the moment, in an effort to better understand how, exactly, shipwrights of the time arrived at the proportions for all the various elements of a ship. It is slow-going, but many things become clearer to me each day. This book would include much of my research and observations about surviving contemporary documents and portraiture. It is a big project that will engage me for decades to come.
  4. Hubac's Historian
    Nope. The thickness of the material I used is actually .030 - so, a shy 1/32”. 1/16” would be too heavy seeming. I thought you had already made this modification, Bill. Am I confusing something, here?
  5. Hubac's Historian
    I wonder whether they might have been smaller swivel guns.
  6. Hubac's Historian
    I think what I would try and do here is cope a closer fit between the rounded top of the port framing, and the underside of the ornament. Then, I would refine the cyma curves to either side of the central cartouche, making them a little thinner at the top curve, reducing gently into the lower reverse curve. You could also probably reduce the central cartouche a little bit as well, making sure to maintain a nice crease where the arcs fold into it, if that makes sense. Maybe give that a go and see where you end up. I agree that they look a little heavy.
  7. Hubac's Historian
    This is a vast improvement. Completely eliminating the background is critically important to a good presentation.
  8. Hubac's Historian
    Indeed I do! This is why the arts should remain a part of core curriculum for K through high-school. Kudos to your Granddaughter for her excellent work!
  9. Hubac's Historian
    Absolutely brilliant stuff - your blocks are second to none, and the whole model places you (in my humble estimation) in the upper pantheon of builders. It is so exquisite, in every way, that it never fails to inspire.
  10. Hubac's Historian
    1/16” sheet styrene
  11. Hubac's Historian
    Oh, yes - great mention, Ian!
  12. Hubac's Historian
    I think the best I can do, Bill, is refer you back to this earlier post. One addendum to this entry is that I use a micro drill bit in my Dremel to create a perforation all around the part; this makes it easier to extract the master from the styrene sheet. Also, I use common hobby glue-sticks to temporarily stick my paper patterns to the plastic. Once that glue dries, I use an Exacto knife to transfer the lines through the paper into the plastic. After washing away the paper and glue residue with arm water, I can then rub a pencil lead across my score lines and the design will show up clearly against the white plastic. As I say - take your time with this, and then take even more time.
  13. Hubac's Historian
    As always, your execution is just mind-blowing; I really like what you did with the mouse. I’ll have to steal that idea for when the time comes.
  14. Hubac's Historian
    Thank you, Wefalck. Back when I was making the trailboard out of 1/16” styrene, and struggling to clear waste without breaking the part, I had an epiphany; I could drill a series of closely spaced holes all around the part and then it was easy to remove the part because a sharp box knife can easily cut through the perforation. I then use a Dremel to get closer to the line, and needle files to define the line. Hello Chapman - thank you for checking-in. As a matter of fact, it is precisely Windsor and Newton Oils that I use for my ventre-de-biche aging and my natural wood effects. They have a long enough open time to be easy to use, and yet they dry completely within 24 hours - provided, of course, that you have not left a heavy accumulation. Doubly matter of fact, it is the Pentart Bitumen, specifically, that I am currently waiting on. I’ve received no notices from seller saying they can’t ship, so fingers crossed! I probably will experiment with Bitumen as a distress wash over acrylics, but my primary intention is to stain the anchor cables and standing rigging with the stuff.
  15. Hubac's Historian
    I love the fore-thought of making the cheeks up from two pieces!
  16. Hubac's Historian
    Grating coamings look really good!
  17. Hubac's Historian
    No doubt - it does produce a nicely weathered effect.
  18. Hubac's Historian
    Yes, I’m a fan of Mr. Shevelev! This last link you posted was a bad gateway, though. Can you screenshot the work, by any chance?
  19. Hubac's Historian
    Yes, Ian explained that pretty succinctly - Thank you! Bill, if you don’t plan to round over the top surface of the gratings, there really is no need to make new coamings. The stock kit coamings are just proud enough of the decking, at scale. You can simply paint them red, if you like.
  20. Hubac's Historian
    Okay, I see where the confusion lies, but I’ll shelve this discussion until I have a little more time to explain it better.
  21. Hubac's Historian
    So you want to elevate the gratings, above the deck surface? I’m not sure you need to make new coamings for that. I’m sorry, but I’m a little unclear on what you would like to do here. Are you also planning to make cambered gratings?
  22. Hubac's Historian
    Hi Bill - I painted my hatches and hatch coamings red, based on what I can see of the Louis Quinz model, as well as that suggested by Jean Claude Lemineur’s St Philippe, where all bits and hatches and other deck furniture are painted red. For the hatches, themselves, I did customize them so that they would be cambered, instead of flat. Doing this required me to double the gratings, and fortunately friends were willing to donate spare parts they had from extra kits. I made the coamings from scratch because the scale of my hatches was suddenly not wide enough because the main deck was now considerably wider. By increasing the coaming width, I created the illusion that the gratings were still in-scale.
  23. Hubac's Historian
    Given that plastic is a petroleum product, I do have some concern that bitumen may not be the best thing, in this application, but I would be using a dilute solution for staining purposes. Consensus seems to be that dilute washes do actually dry completely.
  24. Hubac's Historian
    Your work is as good and clean as Chuck’s prototype.
  25. Hubac's Historian
    I’ve been seeing in other build logs that I admire that guys use the bitumen to stain their rigging line. I want to darken my new anchor cable before installing it, hence the order for the product. Try as I might I could not find it in any of NYC’s better art supply stores. And, so, I’ll pay three times in shipping what the product costs, but this little bottle will last a lifetime.

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