Heronguy

Yes the motosaw works well - there isn’t excessive vibration.  I am quite pleased with it - value for money.
 
Sí, la motosaw funciona bien, no hay vibración excesiva. Estoy bastante satisfecho con esto: relación calidad-precio.

When i did this the first time I used boiling water, PVA and pins. That is ok if you will paint the hull completely and can use woodfiller afterwards. Nowadays, especially on models when the wood will be visable, I have upgraded my technique and go with the "Chuck method". Instead of bending and pinning down the plank, I spend much more time on preparations. This involves two things: i prebend the plank in the "wrong direction" using hot air and clamps. I also spend some time on sanding to make sure it will lie flat against the previous plank. The final result is an S-shaped plank.
 
 

It's been a while since I lasted posted on Winnie. A good bit of progress has occurred. To begin with, I completed framing at the stern with the addition of the horizontal filler pieces and final fairing. I then added the lower counter planking, using the laser cut pieces. After that, I did the first layer of planking for the wales and black strake. The wale planking was begun by using a  batten to mark the line of the bottom of that planking. Lastly, I painted the gunports red, in preparation for doing the upper planking..
 
The upper planking will be the next order of business..
 
Bob

I thought that if I could stiffen the bulkheads without putting in spacers that I could get on with the fairing of the hull.  I decided to try out using a pin nailer to attach scrap strips along the edges of the deck level on the bulkheads.
 

 


They are quite easy to pry up after I'm finished.  They seem to have provided the effect I was looking for so I have started fairing the hull.
 
 

I thought that if I could stiffen the bulkheads without putting in spacers that I could get on with the fairing of the hull.  I decided to try out using a pin nailer to attach scrap strips along the edges of the deck level on the bulkheads.
 

 


They are quite easy to pry up after I'm finished.  They seem to have provided the effect I was looking for so I have started fairing the hull.
 
 

I have received the new plywood.  I'll have to get back to the print shop to get the 11x17 sheets but I have lots to do 'til then. Now starts the task (2nd time around) of cutting and sanding the formers and bulkheads. 
I came across a YouTube video of a DIY scroll saw sanding blade.  The trick was double sided tape and a used saw blade.  Seems like a useful way to clean up the areas where neither the disk sander or spindle sander will reach.
 

 

Plans have been printed and the the 1st dust created.
 
I was expecting to need to purchase a scroll saw for this build but noticed a post here (can't find it to give credit) that the dremel motosaw did the trick for the bulkhead former and bulkheads.  So...
 



These are cut from some inexpensive plywood as a test.  I don't have easy access to Baltic Birch ply for the bulkhead former so I may go ahead with this wood.  I will recut the bulkhead with the exterior ply running vertically to reduce the amount of chipping at the pointy parts.  This plywood is a bit more than 1/4" so I've had to make the slots in the bulkheads and BF a bit wider to fit.  It turns out it is easier to cut close to the correct size 1st and not try to widen the slots after.  I kinda botched the efforts on THAT process so I'll recut the BF.  All part of the learning!
 
 
 
 
 
 

I was able to provide the instructions.  

The errata sheet included with the kit indicates the correction to bulkhead 4a.
 
I used a a couple of strips off the basswood planking sheets to build up material on the curved section.  Then glued a small piece of scrap from the keel sheet to the bottom.  
 

 
Off to the sander to shape it and reduce to template dimensions.


Final adjustments will be accomplished during fairing the hull.
 
 

The hull is shaping up

 
At the bow the slots are prepared for the bulkheads.  I used images from Toni's log to get the depth of the slots for bulkheads 5 and 5a.  (5 is just a press fit in this photo).  Cutting the stemson for 5a with blades and micro chisels was easy enough but did damage the foam core build board.  Of course it will all be out of site soon.

I noticed your interest on Toni's build log and thought if there might be a group project going I should start my own build log.  So there will be at least 2 of us!  Arre you going to start right away?

Raising the ribs

 
And adding some spacers (the spacers in my kit were not actually squared - very slightly trapezoidal - so I cut new one from the waste part of the sheets)
 

I just received my kit in the mail today...trying to finish up my other logs so I might be able to join you!  

Monday, December 9th, 2019
 
In the ten days since my last message I dedicated very little time to modeling: all I managed to do was finishing two of the five sails that would now be ready to be fixed on their respective spars.
 
Unfortunately the day I have to leave my mother-in-law's house free (I remember that it was sold) is approaching and there are still many activities to do to free all the rooms. So, even if ahead of my original plans, I find myself in the need to dismantle my workshop and move everything inside it to a temporary location (I hope for as little time as possible) +/- by the end of the year.
 
Consequence is a mandatory stop to the modeling activities related to the Ragusian Carrack for an indefinite period of time. Obviously, when I'll be less busy it should be possible to resume work on the sails and on the final set-up of the rigging, activities that I theoretically could perform at home, but now it's early to have a accurate plan.
 
I am therefore greeting all those who are following or have followed my log hoping to write and read news soon. In the meantime, I offer all my best wishes for a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year, in case we don't have to hear ourselves in the coming weeks.
 
Best regards, Jack.Aubrey.

Time for another update. It's been a while but I lost my MoJo a little bit for a while. A job change (unexpected) and a few minor health scares (hopefully minor) can do that to you. Luckily after being let go from the company I worked for I managed to get another full time job virtually within 2 weeks. Not bad for an old fart....(or maybe just lucky...lol).
So..., my MoJo rediscovered I picked up from where I left and managed to finish chapter 4.
Just a few photo's to show where I am at....
 

Hi every one!
I have finished 10 sets arm-parts. This time, I redesigned the fixture and optimized the processing procedure. So this batch of products is very successful. Except for the first three test products, the last 10 are all excellent products with almost no defects. And I'll finish the remaining 10 sets soon. 
 
Unlike Mr. Chuck's figurehead, the arms of all members' figurehead have been glued with German glue. I have also made some simple polishing for everyone, and I will remove the base for your folks.



I use a strong plastic box for packing, and each carving will use a breathable bag for packing one more time, so as to prevent moisture and 
It has some compressive strength.

I promise that if it is lost in transit, and if it is not caused by your own reasons, I will resend one set to you free of charge. 
 
I will complete the application of MSW's sponsor in these days, and then it will be released officially . I will inform every member according to the previous pre-order. You can buy them or give up. 
 
Natural wood has natural texture. I have scrapped all carvings with black spots, but natural texture cannot be avoided. If you can't accept these carvings with color difference and wood grain, you can consider purchasing resin casting sets.
 
Thank you!
 
Jack
 
 

The errata sheet included with the kit indicates the correction to bulkhead 4a.
 
I used a a couple of strips off the basswood planking sheets to build up material on the curved section.  Then glued a small piece of scrap from the keel sheet to the bottom.  
 

 
Off to the sander to shape it and reduce to template dimensions.


Final adjustments will be accomplished during fairing the hull.
 
 

The errata sheet included with the kit indicates the correction to bulkhead 4a.
 
I used a a couple of strips off the basswood planking sheets to build up material on the curved section.  Then glued a small piece of scrap from the keel sheet to the bottom.  
 

 
Off to the sander to shape it and reduce to template dimensions.


Final adjustments will be accomplished during fairing the hull.
 
 

The hull is shaping up

 
At the bow the slots are prepared for the bulkheads.  I used images from Toni's log to get the depth of the slots for bulkheads 5 and 5a.  (5 is just a press fit in this photo).  Cutting the stemson for 5a with blades and micro chisels was easy enough but did damage the foam core build board.  Of course it will all be out of site soon.

The deadeyes are attached to the eyebolts with some wire and the unit then glued into holes drilled in the mainrail.
 
Then onward to coppering the hull! 

I thought that if I could stiffen the bulkheads without putting in spacers that I could get on with the fairing of the hull.  I decided to try out using a pin nailer to attach scrap strips along the edges of the deck level on the bulkheads.
 

 


They are quite easy to pry up after I'm finished.  They seem to have provided the effect I was looking for so I have started fairing the hull.
 
 

The deadeyes are attached to the eyebolts with some wire and the unit then glued into holes drilled in the mainrail.
 
Then onward to coppering the hull! 

Current task is to install the chainplates.  On this kit the chainplates are simulated by PE strips attached to the exterior hull but not all the way through the rails.  Eyebolts will be inserted on the rails to complete the appearance of chainplates.
 
Copying the position of the chainplates from the plans made it straightforward to position the PE strips.  


 
The foremast chainplates
 

 
 

I attached the pinrails and finished drilling holes in the deck for the masts.




 
 

Current task is to install the chainplates.  On this kit the chainplates are simulated by PE strips attached to the exterior hull but not all the way through the rails.  Eyebolts will be inserted on the rails to complete the appearance of chainplates.
 
Copying the position of the chainplates from the plans made it straightforward to position the PE strips.  


 
The foremast chainplates