Heronguy

Hi Lou.  The ship’s boat (cutter  part no L130) was the only extra (other than a rotary cutter that I’m concerned will never float!).  No little people.  I had ordered a set barrels and a cutter (different version that used a moulded hull to form the ribs on).
 
It will be interesting to me to find out which cutter (excluding the rotary 🤪) turns out to be easiest to assemble.  I’ve had ship’s boats  from Model Expo, Dusek and Master Korabel so far.  Two of them were fun to build.
 

 


 

At long last I've finished the coppering of the hull.  It hasn't been a very intense effort until the last month but I'm happy to have completed it and am satisfied with the results!
 

First frames are cleaned up and sanded...
I have started with frames 20 and 21 to get a feeling for the numerous steps on the frames as the center frames are not subject to any bevelling.
The employment of electric rotating tools is very limited at this stage and can only be used on the frames inner side. All the steps must be sanded with needle files and small sanding sticks.
 
34 more full frames to go, this will keep me busy for a while
 

At long last I've finished the coppering of the hull.  It hasn't been a very intense effort until the last month but I'm happy to have completed it and am satisfied with the results!
 

Very handsome indeed!  Well done.

At long last I've finished the coppering of the hull.  It hasn't been a very intense effort until the last month but I'm happy to have completed it and am satisfied with the results!
 

At long last I've finished the coppering of the hull.  It hasn't been a very intense effort until the last month but I'm happy to have completed it and am satisfied with the results!
 

At long last I've finished the coppering of the hull.  It hasn't been a very intense effort until the last month but I'm happy to have completed it and am satisfied with the results!
 

At long last I've finished the coppering of the hull.  It hasn't been a very intense effort until the last month but I'm happy to have completed it and am satisfied with the results!
 

At long last I've finished the coppering of the hull.  It hasn't been a very intense effort until the last month but I'm happy to have completed it and am satisfied with the results!
 

Toni,
Great learning project!
I made some mistakes but am happy with the results and knowing how to fix those mistakes next time.
Thanks!
Here is mine all completed except for mounting... very soon!

Now now! My dye mix looked right at the time! 😆

The book has been claimed.  Not available any longer.
 

I was just gifted with a set of blueprints for the Zulu Muirneag.  Plans were drawn by Harold Underhill in the 1950's.  His book "Plan-on-Frame Models" has reduced version of three of the plans.  I can't use the blueprint set so they're listed in Traders... One source of detail.

These are Harold Underhill's 6 sheet blueprints of the Muirneag.  Volume 1 of his Plank-on-Frame Models has versions of 3 of the 6 sheets.  This is the full set.  They are apparently available online in digital format for about $70.
 
Asking $30 plus shipping cost.
 

A friend gave me her husband's copies of Plank-on-Frame Model volumes 1 & 2. Since they are already on my shelf I'd be happy to sell them. Both in very fine condition.

 
They seem to be boy $40 on abe books.  I'll sell for $20 plus postage.
 
 

A friend gave me her husband's copies of Plank-on-Frame Model volumes 1 & 2. Since they are already on my shelf I'd be happy to sell them. Both in very fine condition.

 
They seem to be boy $40 on abe books.  I'll sell for $20 plus postage.
 
 

Now I have run into some difficulty and would benefit from advice!
 
I'll preface my problem with a reminder that I had decided to try to scratch build.  To me that meant milling my own wood and using Chuck's plans to cut out all the pieces rather that using the lasercut components.  I did purchase the chapter 1 laser cut material as a reference.  So far I have used it only to compare my scratch bits with the precision ones.  (aside : as I look at quarter gallery description in Chuck's build log and the more advanced builds in this group I'm questioning my hubris at attempting this - oh well)
 
To the stern.
 
I slapped it together with the hope that things would lie just right.  A quick visual inspection showed that ST-A on the port side was a little low but maybe that didn't matter (I've subsequently fixed that).

 I printed the stern frame guide to use as a visual check on the stern uprights - printed on clear acetate so I could put it on the outer surface.

Things didn't look too good!
Printed again on paper so I could glue it to be inside surface for an easier view.
 

 
The middle three uprights I could coax into alignment with the draft quite easily but the outer one are very rigid and not able to be coaxed with pressure.  (BTW this image is before I fixed ST-A(port))
 
I figured I was going to have to remove ST-CandD from both port and starboard, change the angles of the slots in bulkheads 28&29 and iterate until I got a better visual.
 
However before starting that I thought to try the stern window guides to see how well they fit.  They weren't bad so I I tried the upper sills.  Here I had another disappointment.

 

 
Using the laser cut sills to check it appears the the port side fit nicely but the outer two on the starboard side don't. As Chuck describes in the chapter 1 notes the guides will fall out if the sills need a bit of tweaking. When I see how far out the starboard ST-C&D upright is I'm a a loss for what I should do to try to salvage what's here.
 
Advice gratefully accepted!
 
 
 

Now I have run into some difficulty and would benefit from advice!
 
I'll preface my problem with a reminder that I had decided to try to scratch build.  To me that meant milling my own wood and using Chuck's plans to cut out all the pieces rather that using the lasercut components.  I did purchase the chapter 1 laser cut material as a reference.  So far I have used it only to compare my scratch bits with the precision ones.  (aside : as I look at quarter gallery description in Chuck's build log and the more advanced builds in this group I'm questioning my hubris at attempting this - oh well)
 
To the stern.
 
I slapped it together with the hope that things would lie just right.  A quick visual inspection showed that ST-A on the port side was a little low but maybe that didn't matter (I've subsequently fixed that).

 I printed the stern frame guide to use as a visual check on the stern uprights - printed on clear acetate so I could put it on the outer surface.

Things didn't look too good!
Printed again on paper so I could glue it to be inside surface for an easier view.
 

 
The middle three uprights I could coax into alignment with the draft quite easily but the outer one are very rigid and not able to be coaxed with pressure.  (BTW this image is before I fixed ST-A(port))
 
I figured I was going to have to remove ST-CandD from both port and starboard, change the angles of the slots in bulkheads 28&29 and iterate until I got a better visual.
 
However before starting that I thought to try the stern window guides to see how well they fit.  They weren't bad so I I tried the upper sills.  Here I had another disappointment.

 

 
Using the laser cut sills to check it appears the the port side fit nicely but the outer two on the starboard side don't. As Chuck describes in the chapter 1 notes the guides will fall out if the sills need a bit of tweaking. When I see how far out the starboard ST-C&D upright is I'm a a loss for what I should do to try to salvage what's here.
 
Advice gratefully accepted!
 
 
 

Thanks for the advice.  I had cut the frame guides from some 3/64" sheet but couldn't get them to stay in place even with rubber band pressure.  Clearly then 'll have to unglue the ST-CD upright and adjust the slots until things more closely match the framing guide. 

Encouraging - thank you!

Floyd, Sorry about my spell checker - likes pdf much more that MDF - bah! computer programmers are so uninformed!  Glad you could decipher that.  
 
I've been assembling the latest version of my copper plate jig.   I milled a channel in a base plate and cut a small strip off my self-healing mat.

 
 I've added sides to guide the nail head jig.  The samples I'm getting of the nail head impression are more to my liking.  I'm pretty sure the mat will prevent the blurring I encountered on the previous jig.  I'll be posting more on my Syren log in the next couple of days.
 

I've just spent the last hour or 2 working on Coppering Jig mkII. (actually my 4th or 5th attempt at a satisfactory one).  Luckily I acquired a CNC mill this summer so I'm getting it to drill the pattern for me.  I tried freehand drilling as well as freehand positioning in a dremel drill press. The drill press helps with the holes being vertical and avoiding breaking these tiny bits with lateral pressure.  Freehand positioning was part of my problem but the major issue I had was that the nails would drive in a smidge while using the jig to press the copper foil.  The satisfactory solution (used for coppering the Prince de Neufchatel) was to create a 3/16" plate into which I drilled the nail pattern and then inserted the nails.  The plate was then glued to a longer piece (head of nail in the middle of the sandwich) with the same profile (1/4"x11/16").  Then I ground down the nails projecting from the plat so they were even and not pointy. 

Only other thing I'd mention about use of the jig was that the bottom of the jig in my case was a piece of pdf board - after a bunch of plated were embossed the impressions became blurred because the pdf deformed under the nail but the little bit of plat in the jig spread the deformed area. The top impression is what I want.  The 2nd from top is what I was getting. (hence another attempt at the jig before I copper the Syren!)
 

 
Hope this is coherent and/or useful

You're motoring' along I can see I'll have to catch up to you!!

Hi everybody.  My name is Goemon.
I am new to this site, and, as you can see, new to the process of posting build logs. 
 
I bought the "Alert" because I was attracted by the word "premium version" which is limited to the first time.
Production started in April.First of all, I will introduce the production record for 2 months divided into several times.
 
Since this first edition frame has a loose fit, I removed False Keel in an inverted state, applied adhesive to 3 Bulkheads, inserted False Keel, and repeated the adhesion every 3 sheets.
 
Keel was limewood, so I remade it with Pear Wood.
 

The bulkhead is a 3 mm thick MDF with a filler of falcata material inserted.
I glued the main deck and stern.
Although it is the first edition, Stern's MDF has been added.

 
The first plank was glued from a position where it could be fixed with a pushpin 4mm lower than the designated position.

The second planking is done with clinker, so I practiced from the bottom of the hull for the third and subsequent exercises.

I am not an English-speaking person, so please refrain from reading strange English.
Even if I study for 10 years, I don't use it everyday