flying_dutchman2

Beautiful, Everything that is on the table makes it look so real. I thoroughly enjoyed this log. Thanks. Marc

Salty Sea Dog do you create doll house furniture as well? The extreme miniature work you do, making doll house furniture would be pretty easy with your talents. Marc

Since 2011 I've had a Skil SSaw from Sears costing me $90.00. My favorite Power tool. I have used it to cut everything from 3/4" oak to 1/16 basswood. I use it for fret work, clocks and my intarsia has some serious colorful hardwood, 1/2" puzzles and so on. My layered bowls are cut on an angle. It is all a matter of how creative you are. I have cut brass tubes, aluminum siding, 1/2" Lexan Plexiglas, and other material. (It all depends on the type of blade you are using). As you can read from the above, I have turned my SSaw into a band saw and a table saw. I use Olson blades of various types and TPI's. Delta blades are so-so. I have also created some jigs so I can cut in a straight line. Important note: when I paste a line tracing on the wood I completely cover the plank with clear packing tape. It lubricates the saw. So there is less breakage and burning. I do this to every piece of wood I cut. Thanks for mentioning additional options to buy blades. Marc

This is one of the best topic on this forum. Thank you CaptainSteve. The sharing of how we build, what parts we use, where we scour and purchase parts. I am going to scour ebay and visit HobbyLobby and Michael's again - jewelry department. Marc

WOW Nils this ship is impressive, the attention to details, the planking. I like the soldering of the brass (Is it brass?) I am drooling all over what you have completed with the masts and lets not forget the attention of details..... again. I am just amazed with all the metal work. I like the way you add a figure in the picture to show the correct scale of the items. In post 103 I like what you did to 2 clothes pins. Glue 2 together and create a larger clamp (I am going to do that as well), thanks for the tip. I enjoy how you slowly fill the deck with the necessary items. On build log part 35 (post #133) what do you use to put the brass railing's together? Are you soldering this? It looks perfect, such even spacing's. I just read post #151 and I think you answered my question. I am glad you added the sails (as I always do myself). It gives a complete look of the ship but some people say that it hides the rigging and parts of the spars and masts. Just view the ship from all angles. Excellent paint job as well. When I lived in Amsterdam in 85, the Tall Ship SAIL show had the Gorch Fock 1 and she was impressive. I actually did a cross stitch from her. (From all the cross stitches I have done in my life this is one I kept and the rest have been given away). Top left - Crest of Amsterdam Middle left - Figure head from a museum in Milan. Bottom - All the flags from countries that participated and rest is the ship itself.

I lie your picture under "Jan B.". The captain from Tin Tin (Kuifje) is known to have a long sentence of words. Oh Yes, the ships hull looks good. Marc

Last club meet there was a member who got a NEW DOUBLE MULTI-CLAMP HOLD IT PLUS from www.vanda-layindustries.com. Beautiful piece, solid and holds the dremel well into the clamps. So my next power tool will be the Acra mill press from vanda-lay. I will be able to do many things with that. Furthermore, as I said before and I have other wood hobbies (building clocks and intarsia) The router table display is similar to what Byrnes is coming out or is already available. Dremel has one as well except for much cheaper, but essentially does the same thing. Solid Aluminum Construction •Large 1/4”X6”X8” Table •Fits All Dremel & Simular Moto Tools •Route, Shape, Sand, Grind •Mount Or Clamp To Any Work Surface $110.00

Is there a lot of waste (saw dust) percentage wise? I am assuming the waste would be as much as the width of the blade. 1/32 x 1/8 - that is amazing. It is accurate all along the plank you are cutting out? Marc

LOL....... "Everyone, repeat after me". Conclusion of this thread. Get a Byrnes saw if it is a "table saw" you are looking for and the precision you need for the production work. This topic was discussed in last weekend's club meet and it was agreed by the pro builders. ""GET a Byrnes saw". Marc

I tried that and my cat became entangled himself and with long hair I had to cut it out. He looked rather ruff. Marc

Just a thought: With scratch building my jacht, there is not really a correct way of building a particular ship. I scour the NET, especially the Friesian museum that has all there plans of digitized and available. Also search the word "bouwtekeningen" (build drawings) and there is much of that as well. Look through numerous books and pictures just to get an idea of what certain parts were built. What I may do is go to several book merchants in Holland and order a book or two on the subjects of jachts. (bol.com.nl; nautiek.nl and lanasta.com). The original book of the Utrecht - Ab Hoving is really good. The one I have from Gil MaCardle is pretty good. I am just not building according to his method. There is one book E.v.Konijnenburg.Schip Building - available on archive.org and 2 german books; Die Niederlandische Jacht im 17.Jahrhundert and Smakken Kuffen Galioten-1897 (free) that have helped me a lot. Then one has to be very creative to come up with methods and patterns, etc to put it all together. Compared to English or French ships I find (but I could be wrong) that there isn't much technical reference on early Dutch ships, but, it is getting better. In the 80's I built a tjalk from a drawing and it was completely wrong. I put 200 years of methods in one little boat. I was so off, I laughed and learned a lot. I put a 1/2 lb weight in the hull and let it sail towards the middle of the local township lake. Top heavy like the Wasa. One little breeze and sank. Thanks for reading. Marc

I thought of doing that. I glued 3 - 5" x 5" x 1/2" of basswood together and used the scroll saw to cut out the basic shape. Once my sander is delivered I can sand the angles. Marc

I have done something very different for the Jacht Mary and the method comes from a member of a local club and a pro builder by the name of Gus Augustin Equipment needed to make flags. You make them from plain white printing paper Fold the paper to the format you want it to be. Wet the paper to take memory out. Hang or put on towel to dry. Paint the paper with acrylic. Fold the paper and you have a flag. Add 1 coat of Dullcoat to dull the paint colors. It keeps its form whereas the cloth type lose it even if I starch it or use other methods. Post 51 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4294-the-first-royal-dutch-yacht-mary-by-marcus-botanicus-mamoli-1646/page-4 Marc

Cool looking handle. I have razor saws as well and love them. Since you made the miter box from wood, isn't that going to wear out quickly and then you have to make a new one. I took the little miter box that came with the X-Acto kit and made the groves 1mm wider with a dremel and a carbide saw blade. Works great. Marc

Played around with shell-first and it will take me longer to get a decent looking ship out of it or at least a few planks on the keel. I will intermittently work on it but first and foremost the Utrecht takes priority and will be built as a POB. Glued the spacers which are 26mm wide to the frames. Template I made so the frames are even with one another. Home made large clamp. The 2 long square dowels in the top of the picture are templates of the keel. The spaces are for the frames. Template of what the keel will look like and was used to keep the frames even. All frames glued together and put on the keel template. Everything fits. Another view but from the top. As this is my first attempt of scratch I have made numerous templates to make sure that x, y, and z plane are aligned with each other. Next will be the bow which is either as a sanded and cared solid piece of basswood or planking like the replica. I have been looking at many pictures of how the stern is built and do have an idea as how this will be. It is going to be fun. Marc

I went to the Vaughan and purchased three Bear Hand saws (Japanese saws). Fine, Med & Coarse TPI. I am sold. Have used it one various projects. You get a straight cut downwards, no getting stuck in the wood. I let the saw blade do the sawing, all I do is move the saw forward and backwards. [in forestry - graduate school - when I taught the timber harvesting classes, first rule of the first day: Hold the chainsaw on the angle you want a cut and let the chain do the job. You have to have a sharp chain to do this] I want to thank you for the suggestion. I am very happy with them Marc

Michael; I'll check out this book. Furthermore, depending on what period of Dutch ships you build, I may be able to steer you in the right direction. I have a book and plans from A. Tasman, There is the new Dutch freighter of the 17th century book with 24 sets of plans for 14 ships, There are some other books in Dutch, I can translate for you. Let me know. Marc

I just looked at it again and I like it and yes, the X-Y attachment is a must, will read up on it more. What I like about it that it is made of Aluminum as well (just like the Byrnes tools). This is more in my price range and I can use it for other hobbies as well. Marc

This is a tool I will get as there are so many things I can do with. Some may say that the dremel motor does not have enough HP, but for my that is Ok. I like all the milling attachments for it. Last night I bought the drill press stand from Dremel on ebay. I wonder if there are any milling accessories available. I researched this but cannot find anything. It is also possible I am looking in the wrong place. But if it isn't available I will get this tool. Marc

Here is a website that sells a drill press with all types of accessories and the material is made of aluminum and is reasonably priced. Would love to have this. It accepts any dremel. http://www.vanda-layindustries.com/ Marc

What I meant to say is that these modelers have power tools but not Byrnes power tools. I have power tools as well. Drill, dremel, router and scroll saw. Besides Ship modeling I also do fret work, making bowls, wooden clocks made from all wood and intarsia. I am always looking for power tools that I can use for all of the above hobbies. Marc

The following pictures is what the "shell-First" building looks like. Shell-First Method I am going to experiment with this method and will add the progress here as well. If it fails than nothing is lost. But I think it will work. I am guessing it is going to be difficult with a flat bottom boat compared to a non flat bottom. I will figure it out once I actually do this. If this does work out, I will write an article about it for MSW and something for the NRG Journal. In the end there will be three building methods that I would know off. POB, POF & Shell-First. Marc

Now for something completely different. (I know I am a bit scatterbrained). I have been reading up on another method of building models and Ab Hoving calls this “shell first”. It is pretty interesting. The planking is not fastened to an assembly of ribs placed on the keel, but first the planking is secured to the keel as kind of a shell, after which the ribs are fitted in as a kind of reinforcement. One of the advantages is that the planking is always fair, that it nowhere shows hollow or bubbles and that it makes the design rather easy. It does not matter how the frames are fitted into the shell as long as they keep everything together. In building the actual ships; as long as the timbers were securely attached, the rest did not matter too much. It was not necessary for the shipwright to produce good-looking frames on which the planking had to be fastened, as required by the other, “frame-first”, method. He only had to hold the planking together. The important thing is that the Dutch way of building of the hull took very little time. They also invented “warehousing” which kept ready-made pieces available for ship building. I am using the following books as examples and I have a PDF version from Nicolaes Witsens - Scheeps Bouw Konst Open Gestelt by A. J. Hoving or Nicolaes Witsen and Shipbuilding in the Dutch Golden Age by A.J. Hoving, Diederick Wildeman (Creator), Alan Lemmers

None of this is glued but it is to give me a general picture of what it is going to look like. In the foreground is a keel made from scrap wood. The key here for me is the space between each frame, which is 26mm. I need to visualize everything to understand the building process. So I experiment a lot and make lots of demo’s. Probably also because this is my first scratch. Behind the scrap keel are the frames with the spacers and each side has a long thin plank to visualize the shape of the ship. Same as before but closer. The 3 – ½” glued pieces of basswood is going to be the bow. Easier to shape.

I like this. We moved from Byrnes tools to shop vacs. This thread would be better titled..... "Can I live without power tools, including high-end power tools." I have a cheap, light shop vac and have been looking for something more quiet. I like the ones that both Mark and Gorge have. Further research is needed. Like rtropp, I have also rigged my power tools to fit the hose of the vac. Something else. Without my knowledge, at the NRG conference this year, my wife talked to several wives of modelers and asked about the Byrnes tools. (she likes the quality and would use them as well). They told her that most of there husbands used hand tools and some power tools. The power tools were also rigged to perform different results. Meaning one power tool could do the same job as 2 or 3 different power tools. None of them had any Byrnes tools. Mostly tools from Lowes, Home Depot and the like. Conclusion....... I can do without them. Marc