flying_dutchman2

I am not sure if this belongs here. Our KEURIG (coffee machine) died the other day and I took it completely apart to salvage the tiny bolts and nuts which I will be using on my Soling 1m RC sail boat. These tiny items will come in handy when anchoring the RC material to the hull. No pictures of the example yet but what follows is the completely taken apart coffee machine. Rest in Peace Tubing a tiny screws, nuts and bolts. Here is the tiny items. Marc

This would be the long skinny piece of it? I did copy it from the plan. I've seen that in the drawing from Emke and Macardle. I should have explained this better. The blue lines on template of the stern are going to be small flat pieces of wood to make a frame. Thanks for the suggestion. Marc

That is a great idea and looks good. I wonder if the European Bank is bothered that you took some coins out of circulation. Marc

Finished all the frames and working on the bow and stern. I tend to overthink different ways on how to built different items. For instance - the bow - I make numerous templates and come up with many creative ideas on how this item should be built. I make it from balsa and basswood, then dry fit and if it isn't right I start all over again. I then resort back to the first idea. I also get stuck on a particular measurement. In Emke's drawings the distance from frame 6.5 to the stern is different on 2 plans by 2 mm. I contemplate too much. I want it all exact but then when you think about it, 'nothing is exact'. Not in those days and not now. :-) Used dark cherry to simulate oak. I am pretty happy about these pieces as they turned out well. Different view and not sanded yet. Template of the stern. The blue lines are for the framing of the stern. Template of the lower part of the stern. To check distance and how it will be positioned. Different templatesw and there are many more of these.

Beautiful, Everything that is on the table makes it look so real. I thoroughly enjoyed this log. Thanks. Marc

Salty Sea Dog do you create doll house furniture as well? The extreme miniature work you do, making doll house furniture would be pretty easy with your talents. Marc

Since 2011 I've had a Skil SSaw from Sears costing me $90.00. My favorite Power tool. I have used it to cut everything from 3/4" oak to 1/16 basswood. I use it for fret work, clocks and my intarsia has some serious colorful hardwood, 1/2" puzzles and so on. My layered bowls are cut on an angle. It is all a matter of how creative you are. I have cut brass tubes, aluminum siding, 1/2" Lexan Plexiglas, and other material. (It all depends on the type of blade you are using). As you can read from the above, I have turned my SSaw into a band saw and a table saw. I use Olson blades of various types and TPI's. Delta blades are so-so. I have also created some jigs so I can cut in a straight line. Important note: when I paste a line tracing on the wood I completely cover the plank with clear packing tape. It lubricates the saw. So there is less breakage and burning. I do this to every piece of wood I cut. Thanks for mentioning additional options to buy blades. Marc

This is one of the best topic on this forum. Thank you CaptainSteve. The sharing of how we build, what parts we use, where we scour and purchase parts. I am going to scour ebay and visit HobbyLobby and Michael's again - jewelry department. Marc

WOW Nils this ship is impressive, the attention to details, the planking. I like the soldering of the brass (Is it brass?) I am drooling all over what you have completed with the masts and lets not forget the attention of details..... again. I am just amazed with all the metal work. I like the way you add a figure in the picture to show the correct scale of the items. In post 103 I like what you did to 2 clothes pins. Glue 2 together and create a larger clamp (I am going to do that as well), thanks for the tip. I enjoy how you slowly fill the deck with the necessary items. On build log part 35 (post #133) what do you use to put the brass railing's together? Are you soldering this? It looks perfect, such even spacing's. I just read post #151 and I think you answered my question. I am glad you added the sails (as I always do myself). It gives a complete look of the ship but some people say that it hides the rigging and parts of the spars and masts. Just view the ship from all angles. Excellent paint job as well. When I lived in Amsterdam in 85, the Tall Ship SAIL show had the Gorch Fock 1 and she was impressive. I actually did a cross stitch from her. (From all the cross stitches I have done in my life this is one I kept and the rest have been given away). Top left - Crest of Amsterdam Middle left - Figure head from a museum in Milan. Bottom - All the flags from countries that participated and rest is the ship itself.

I lie your picture under "Jan B.". The captain from Tin Tin (Kuifje) is known to have a long sentence of words. Oh Yes, the ships hull looks good. Marc

Last club meet there was a member who got a NEW DOUBLE MULTI-CLAMP HOLD IT PLUS from www.vanda-layindustries.com. Beautiful piece, solid and holds the dremel well into the clamps. So my next power tool will be the Acra mill press from vanda-lay. I will be able to do many things with that. Furthermore, as I said before and I have other wood hobbies (building clocks and intarsia) The router table display is similar to what Byrnes is coming out or is already available. Dremel has one as well except for much cheaper, but essentially does the same thing. Solid Aluminum Construction •Large 1/4”X6”X8” Table •Fits All Dremel & Simular Moto Tools •Route, Shape, Sand, Grind •Mount Or Clamp To Any Work Surface $110.00

Is there a lot of waste (saw dust) percentage wise? I am assuming the waste would be as much as the width of the blade. 1/32 x 1/8 - that is amazing. It is accurate all along the plank you are cutting out? Marc

LOL....... "Everyone, repeat after me". Conclusion of this thread. Get a Byrnes saw if it is a "table saw" you are looking for and the precision you need for the production work. This topic was discussed in last weekend's club meet and it was agreed by the pro builders. ""GET a Byrnes saw". Marc

I tried that and my cat became entangled himself and with long hair I had to cut it out. He looked rather ruff. Marc

Just a thought: With scratch building my jacht, there is not really a correct way of building a particular ship. I scour the NET, especially the Friesian museum that has all there plans of digitized and available. Also search the word "bouwtekeningen" (build drawings) and there is much of that as well. Look through numerous books and pictures just to get an idea of what certain parts were built. What I may do is go to several book merchants in Holland and order a book or two on the subjects of jachts. (bol.com.nl; nautiek.nl and lanasta.com). The original book of the Utrecht - Ab Hoving is really good. The one I have from Gil MaCardle is pretty good. I am just not building according to his method. There is one book E.v.Konijnenburg.Schip Building - available on archive.org and 2 german books; Die Niederlandische Jacht im 17.Jahrhundert and Smakken Kuffen Galioten-1897 (free) that have helped me a lot. Then one has to be very creative to come up with methods and patterns, etc to put it all together. Compared to English or French ships I find (but I could be wrong) that there isn't much technical reference on early Dutch ships, but, it is getting better. In the 80's I built a tjalk from a drawing and it was completely wrong. I put 200 years of methods in one little boat. I was so off, I laughed and learned a lot. I put a 1/2 lb weight in the hull and let it sail towards the middle of the local township lake. Top heavy like the Wasa. One little breeze and sank. Thanks for reading. Marc

I thought of doing that. I glued 3 - 5" x 5" x 1/2" of basswood together and used the scroll saw to cut out the basic shape. Once my sander is delivered I can sand the angles. Marc

I have done something very different for the Jacht Mary and the method comes from a member of a local club and a pro builder by the name of Gus Augustin Equipment needed to make flags. You make them from plain white printing paper Fold the paper to the format you want it to be. Wet the paper to take memory out. Hang or put on towel to dry. Paint the paper with acrylic. Fold the paper and you have a flag. Add 1 coat of Dullcoat to dull the paint colors. It keeps its form whereas the cloth type lose it even if I starch it or use other methods. Post 51 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4294-the-first-royal-dutch-yacht-mary-by-marcus-botanicus-mamoli-1646/page-4 Marc

Cool looking handle. I have razor saws as well and love them. Since you made the miter box from wood, isn't that going to wear out quickly and then you have to make a new one. I took the little miter box that came with the X-Acto kit and made the groves 1mm wider with a dremel and a carbide saw blade. Works great. Marc

Played around with shell-first and it will take me longer to get a decent looking ship out of it or at least a few planks on the keel. I will intermittently work on it but first and foremost the Utrecht takes priority and will be built as a POB. Glued the spacers which are 26mm wide to the frames. Template I made so the frames are even with one another. Home made large clamp. The 2 long square dowels in the top of the picture are templates of the keel. The spaces are for the frames. Template of what the keel will look like and was used to keep the frames even. All frames glued together and put on the keel template. Everything fits. Another view but from the top. As this is my first attempt of scratch I have made numerous templates to make sure that x, y, and z plane are aligned with each other. Next will be the bow which is either as a sanded and cared solid piece of basswood or planking like the replica. I have been looking at many pictures of how the stern is built and do have an idea as how this will be. It is going to be fun. Marc

I went to the Vaughan and purchased three Bear Hand saws (Japanese saws). Fine, Med & Coarse TPI. I am sold. Have used it one various projects. You get a straight cut downwards, no getting stuck in the wood. I let the saw blade do the sawing, all I do is move the saw forward and backwards. [in forestry - graduate school - when I taught the timber harvesting classes, first rule of the first day: Hold the chainsaw on the angle you want a cut and let the chain do the job. You have to have a sharp chain to do this] I want to thank you for the suggestion. I am very happy with them Marc

Michael; I'll check out this book. Furthermore, depending on what period of Dutch ships you build, I may be able to steer you in the right direction. I have a book and plans from A. Tasman, There is the new Dutch freighter of the 17th century book with 24 sets of plans for 14 ships, There are some other books in Dutch, I can translate for you. Let me know. Marc

I just looked at it again and I like it and yes, the X-Y attachment is a must, will read up on it more. What I like about it that it is made of Aluminum as well (just like the Byrnes tools). This is more in my price range and I can use it for other hobbies as well. Marc

This is a tool I will get as there are so many things I can do with. Some may say that the dremel motor does not have enough HP, but for my that is Ok. I like all the milling attachments for it. Last night I bought the drill press stand from Dremel on ebay. I wonder if there are any milling accessories available. I researched this but cannot find anything. It is also possible I am looking in the wrong place. But if it isn't available I will get this tool. Marc

Here is a website that sells a drill press with all types of accessories and the material is made of aluminum and is reasonably priced. Would love to have this. It accepts any dremel. http://www.vanda-layindustries.com/ Marc

What I meant to say is that these modelers have power tools but not Byrnes power tools. I have power tools as well. Drill, dremel, router and scroll saw. Besides Ship modeling I also do fret work, making bowls, wooden clocks made from all wood and intarsia. I am always looking for power tools that I can use for all of the above hobbies. Marc