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flying_dutchman2

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Everything posted by flying_dutchman2

  1. flying_dutchman2
    I am a bit stuck as I cannot find the paint that looks similar to the real boat. I can do an undercoat but a top coat..... I was mixing different acrylic colors, but that didn't look right ort I am not doing it correctly. I need to read up on "Painting modelships 101". I paint with a brush, no airbrushing.+ My sister sent me a list of the paints and a link to the site where they got the paint. I now have to look similar colors in smaller quantities. http://stright-mackay.com/ Pettit Easypoxy paints on page 431. The topsides are Semi-Gloss White Deck is Sandtone Sides of the cabin are Grand Banks Beige. Bottom anti-fouling Aquagard - a qt of red would do it. Cockpit deck and cabin sole are generic battleship gray. The woodwork is Sikkens Cetol Marine ( Stright doesn't have it, but Home Depot might. If not, we could get it through Hamilton Marine in Searsport, Maine Silica Sand should be added to paint on surfaces where people will walk, for grit - roughens the surface. I will research this and if anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it very much. Thanks Marcus
  2. flying_dutchman2
    Piet; Thanks for the instructions. Only one problem. I am planning to put the boat in a display case which means there will be wires and batteries. There is another solution. I am going to cut a piece of mirror to the dimensions so it fits towards the bow in the cabin. I will leave the cabin door open. Once the boat is in a case, you can use a flashlight and shine it in the cabin and the mirror will reflect the interior. I am going to use the lights setup for something else. Marc
  3. flying_dutchman2
    David, I used the wood filler which is more like Elmer's glue mixed with saw dust to get the large uneven areas. Once very dry the hull gets a good sanding. There still some small unevenness in between the planking and there I use the spackle. I have just sanded that and it is now very smooth (Pictures will follow). I used this method (sawdust/glue and spackle) on an RC boat years ago it I liked the way it looked. But then again maybe it is overkill. Now I need to look at the paint list my sister gave me and see if I can get this in lesser volume compared to the amount for the real boat. Marc
  4. flying_dutchman2
    There is nothing better than raw, young, fresh, caught a few hours ago from the sea herring (Dutch - haring) with a touch of finely cut white onions. Every 2 years when I visit my mother in Amsterdam the first thing I do the next day is go to the local fish shop in her area and have a few of these. Marcus
  5. flying_dutchman2
    Piet, Please give me some idea about how to do the lights in the cabin. Where do I buy these lights. How are they powered? How is it wired? Outside the boat? Bob Filipowsky (from our club) used a mirror opposite of the cabin entrance and when you point a flash light into it. You can then see the interior. It is no problem with the acrylic in the case. Marc
  6. flying_dutchman2
    Ian, You are welcome and the better details I can show the better I can show others how I am building this boat. Marc
  7. flying_dutchman2
    Ed; When building the Naiad are there any descriptions on how to build the masts, sails and rigging or would this be another volume? Personally, I believe that a sailing ship without masts, sails and rigging is not a Sailing ship. I do like the admiralty models that people built and I see on display in naval museums as well. As you mentioned about the YA, that there will be rigging, will there be sails as well? For me that would be an impressive ship to build and I would purchase that volume. Marcus
  8. flying_dutchman2
    Druxey; There is nothing better than raw, young, fresh, caught a few hours ago from the sea herring (Dutch - haring) with a touch of finely cut white onions. Every 2 years when I visit my mother in Amsterdam the first thing I do the next day is go to the local fish shop in her area and have a few of these. Marcus
  9. flying_dutchman2
    Here I mix Elmer's white glue with fine sawdust. There are some areas on the hull that are very thin (due to sanding) so I spread this mixture out on these areas and once dry it is solid and very hard. Then I give it a good sanding and because the Catboat will be painted you will not be seeing much of that. After all the rough sanding I now put on a layer of vinyl spackling. It does not shrink, can be painted, easy to apply. Marcus
  10. flying_dutchman2
    Planking is finished and I gave it a rough sanding. Marcus
  11. flying_dutchman2
    Cabin Furniture: These are the two bunks. Most of it is made of balsa. The sides of the bunks is 0.5mm mahogany. I think they are drawers, but I have to ask my sister. Here it shows how the cabin would look like in the Catboat itself. Marcus
  12. flying_dutchman2
    Ed, Thanks for he explanations. I will want to learn more about your methods so I need to save some $$ to purchase Vol. 1 & 2 of the Naiad. I am not ready to build a ship lie the Naiad, but I am very interested n learning your building methods. In the book Young America, you mention examples of your methods of building a ship to refer to the books of the Naiad. Marcus
  13. flying_dutchman2
    My 2 cents. I did the Bounty from Constructo and these instructions helped me a lot. Large CAD drawings, color picture booklet of step by step on how to build the ship and the English, Dutch and German instructions were very good. There was French and Spanish as well but I am not so fluent in that. The Royal Yacht Mary from Mamoli were horrible. NO CAD just hand drawings. Crappy walnut strips. The Catboat from Bluejacket is skimpy and very few pictures. So far I have more pictures than the booklet itself. There are spelling mistakes and I am taking notes. If they want my pictures they can have those as well to help the next person. When I built a ship I scour the NET for other websites with builds. Many sites in Europe usually have something that will help your build as well as MSW. Marc
  14. flying_dutchman2
    Piet; Again, Beautiful work. The details are amazing. Finally did read through it all. No wonder you mentioned lighting in my Catboot. You do it as well. Again, your attention to detail is amazing. Green curtains, windows in doors. But how do you power all those lights? Batteries? Where do you put them or long wires to outside the display case? On post #6, 2nd picture, you have a very small planner on the table. Where did you get that? Thanks Marcus
  15. flying_dutchman2
    Ed; This was an incredible awesome 3 hour read. Wow, learned so much from you and the suggestion by other members that were made. I have been using CAD applications all my life (landscape architecture) so the first few posts about CAD makes a lot of sense to me. I am presently practicing on TurboCAD the Heemskerck from Abel Tasman. Before reading some of your information, I was at a loss in some areas on how to draw the vertical image of the final aft body plan of the hull. So now I know. I may just buy the book so I can see these plans in full size, and read/learn your methods and your jigs so I can improve on my building a model. Several questions. Naiad page 3: Copper bolts. Why? Isn't this too shiny? Aren't bamboo nails used? Was this used in 1797? From the original Admiral draft how do you know how to built the following: the forward magazines, transverse pallet beams, and many other features that are below the main deck? Through research and pictures from similar ships of that era? Or are those drafts included as well, but you did not show this in your build. Clamps: I researched the Jorgensen clamps and cannot find the mini ones you use. Many sites have the big ones mostly starting at 4". Where did you get yours? Also I like the clamps in a "picture were developed to cope with the problem of very small spaces between", the ones from maple and a cut-off brass screw. I am working on replicating these on a slightly different way. I will probably have more questions later, but for now thank you. Marcus
  16. flying_dutchman2
    Beautifully crafted, details and all. Love how you did the screws. Noticed that the plans are pretty big the way they are spread out. Detailed enough to put it all on the ship. Marc
  17. flying_dutchman2
    WOW, Kees... this one looks good. I just pulled up a chair and will follow the built. Great work, so far. Marc
  18. flying_dutchman2
    Coming towards the last of the planking. 'Out' with the clamps and 'in' with the pins. Clamps no longer fit. As you can see, I use all kinds of methods to keep the planks in place until they are fully dry. Personally, I am not big on planking. I never look forward to this. I prefer deck fittings, masts, rigging and sails. I think I will not start on any admiral model anytime soon. Maybe I should just do solid hulls and scribe the planks on the hull. Go straight to the deck and up.
  19. flying_dutchman2
    David; You are so correct. I have so many of these from Harbor Freight and always looking for more. Marc
  20. flying_dutchman2
    All the items that belong to the cabin. What I will change is the cabin walls. The kit has 2 windows on each side and the my sisters boat has one on each side. I was at Michael's yesterday and they had enlarged there wood display and I found 1/32" and 1/64" Baltic Birch ply sheets. Had to get those. The 1/64" costs $21.00 each and the 1/32" costs $9.00 Pricy, but worth it. [ I re-did the cabin walls on 1/32" ply and it looks good. The next two pictures are of the planking. I soak the wood, bend it a bit by hand, form it on the frame, use lots of clamps, let it dry overnight and the next day use a combination of CA and white glue to attach the plank to the frame. The CA is to hold the plank to the frame and the white glue is used to keep the frames together. I've experimented with this and it works for me.
  21. flying_dutchman2
    Lee Valley has some nice tools. Bummer that there are no Cyber Monday sales. Just have to save up for 0ne of the planner. Marc
  22. flying_dutchman2
    Pilot area which has been strengthened with scrap wood. The bulkhead has a door opening. Here I will make the door that can be moved, like the real thing. The Cabin floor is 1/8” balsa. The three ½ oval slats are going to be the inner walls in the cabin. Close up how the floor, and inner walls look like. Dry Fitted all items. How the cabin will look like in the front to the cabin (bow) there will be a door for storage.
  23. flying_dutchman2
    Starting on the cabin. Pictures will follow. On no. 2 post check the third picture. You will see the sheath where the center board slides into. In real life the boat was able to sail in very shallow water, it could beach itself. My sister mentioned that her centerboard is attached to the keel. So I will cut the board in half and built the cabin on top of that. Marc
  24. flying_dutchman2
    For rigging I use clear nail polish. I have a model I built in 1987 and the rat lines are still secure. CA when I have to glue something quick or I cannot clamp it. I use a drop of CA here and there and the rest of the area I use the white glue. Marc
  25. flying_dutchman2
    The vote has been cast and the interior of the cabin will be built. This will be a challenge and an interesting one as well. Marc

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