flying_dutchman2

My preference would be for a serving machine.  The reason for this is that I already own an OSS and even though it is designed for macro-carpentry I would be hard-pressed justifying a replacement.  I guess that's the same reason I still use an ancient Dremel table saw with an Accurizer!

You guys are starting to embarrass me.  But if you want to give credit where credit is really due you should be talking about my wife Donna who is actually the owner of the company. 
 
 For those of you that don't know we started Model Machines about 10 years ago on a part time basis.  Just the two of us,  no other employees to worry about. At that time we were both working another full time job at a design and manufacturing firm in Orlando that I was part owner of.  I was head of the machine shop with 3 other partners and Donna was hired as the controller.  The company was in bad shape finantially when we hired Donna and in a year or so she brought the company back from the edge and made it a profitable business again.  Donna has a 4 year business degree from the University of Indiana and there isn't a lot she doesn't know about the business world.  What she doesn't know she makes it her business to find out.  When we started Model Machines she did all the research to get the company up and running and also thought up the name of the company.  She does all the taxes,  pays all the bills,  does all the paper work and keeps everything running smoothly.   I design all the machines and make all the parts,  do the assembly and ship them out. 
 
When you call us with a problem or an order more than likely you talked to her and 99% of the time she can take care of your needs whether it's replacement parts,  lost screws, diagnosing an electrical problem, delivery times or just how things work.  She is on the ball and has you covered.  She is the one who emails you when your stuff ships,  calls you when your address has changed and generally makes sure you get what you need when you need it.  If it was my job to do all that no doubt we would be out of business a long time ago.    She is the boss.  
 
And to this day it remains,  just the two of us.
 
regards
Jim Byrnes
Model Machines

Apart from the excellent build quality of his machines, the single other quality that sets them apart is his service.  As another example, I purchased one of Jim's earliest ropewalks.  While the build quality was great I rapidly became very frustrated with the quality of the rope it was producing.  We corresponded for some time and Jim was quite patient.  It became evident that trying to sort the problem by email was not going to work out, so Jim asked me to return the machine (at his cost) for him to have a look at.  Now remember I live down under so this was not cheap   In his words " I can't have a customer on the other side of the world unhappy with the product".
 
It turned out one of the pulley belts had stretched (was too slack) and was causing inconsistent lay up of the rope.  Jim returned the machine to me (again at his cost) and all is working fine now.  Not too many companies would go to that extent!  I have every machine Jim has built and none have let me down yet - that is simple testimony of the quality of his products.
 
Jim you can pay me later - two crates of beer should do it  - sorry folks being flippent - just a very happy customer!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Ahoy;
Brief descriptions about 2 well researched books I am reading.
 
First: The True Story of the Mutiny of the Bounty.  By Caroline Alexander 2003, ISBN-978-0-14-200469-2
This book is extremely detailed and very well researched.  All of the events are well described.  Before the voyage.  The voyage out  to the South Pacific. The mutiny, The Pandora. The return of Bligh to Coupang (Dutch Colony) and the trail of the mutineers.  The author takes all this information and creates a seamless narrative.  Many of the sources are letters from the sailors to family and diaries that the men kept.
 
In the back of the book it has all the sources for each chapter and select biographies.  Best book I have read about the HMS Bounty.
 
Second:  The Slave Ship - A Human History.  By Marcus Rideker (professor of History) 2007 ISBN-978-0-14-311425-3
Another book that is well researched.  The book discusses in detail the life, death and terror of the slave trade. The evolution of it.  The so called "Middle Passage"  From Africa to either the West Indies or the USA.  Insurrections, the lives of sailors, death and diseases on particular slave ships.  This book is not just about what happens to the slaves but everything that has to do with it.  The people involved and then several last chapters of the abolition of slavery.  You read about accounts that are quoted from actual court proceedings.
 
Again well researched with lots of sources quoted for each chapter in the book. 
 
Thank you for reading my brief review.
Marc

WATCH PARTS - Search E-Bay for this phrase: "steam punk". A 30g packet containing hundreds of miniscule cogs, gear-wheels, coils and springs cost me less than A$20.00 (including shipping). Watch-spring coils will, I imagine, make excellent mast-bands!!
 

XMAS TREE LIGHTS - Recently, a string of about-to-be-installed Christmas lights caught my eye. These were only a cheap variety, but my immediate thought was: Cut the tips from each globe, drill holes of corresponding size in a strip of wood, insert former Xmas light, and you have a perfectly round porthole with a domed window pane.
 
(Observant viewers may have noticed the complete lack of snow in my part of Australia at Christmas time - it was 38 degrees Celsius today!!)
 

BEADS - There are thousands of different beads available. I strongly recommend spending a few hours browsing through the shelves of a good bead store, if you can find one. Otherwise, settle for a raid on the Admiral's sewing table. Try imagining each bead cut in half/sanded/sliced.
 
This pic shows a whale-boat (1/76th scale) I am currently working on. The central drum is a bead, with the wooden ends being former chopsticks.
 

I've found that zu Mondfeld's  Historic Ship Models gives a pretty good overview.  However, for many details, it's not error-free.  Still, it's a rather inexpensive reference work for those getting started.
 
Also, Lavery's Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War is very definitive.

Thank you all for the suggestions,
"riverboat" - wow I like the site and will use it for my next order.  That they ship worldwide at a reasonable price is even better.  Thank you.
"TBlack" - I checked Rockler after I ordered from Woodcraft, thank you.
"garym" - I went to that site and the dowels were  more money than the others, but I do like what they have.
 
Thank you all for the info which I will use after I run out these dowels.
Marc

Flying Dutchman,
I was just in a Rockler store this afternoon and saw that they have 1/8" dowels (and larger) in various hardwoods. Furniture makers use them in their joinery work. You've mentioned Woodcraft, now Rockler, there must be others that cater to home woodworkers.
Tom

Cornwall Model Boats have the sizes you'er looking for
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/birch-dowel.html
Frank

Here are the pictures from the other day. This is all of the frames on the molds:
 

 
And here is a view from the stern:
 

 
This is the plank bending iron I am using and the "bone" pile so far:
 

Some more progress. I sanded the taper into the stem then cut out the rabbet on the stem and keel. This kit made this tricky operation easier by not only providing the rabbet and bearding lines on the stem and keel pieces, but these lines were actually scored into the wood. I then just had to deepen the scores with an X-Acto blade and cut out the material between the lines with the X-Acto chisel. I used a short Emory board to clean up the slot:
 

 

 
BTW, that narrow chisel blade came with a knife set but I have not been able to find replacements. The standard X-Acto chisel blades are much wider. If anyone knows a source for those blades, please let me know.
 
When I was happy with the rabbet on both sides, I fit and glued the molds to the false keel. I used magnets to hold false keel and the molds, and Lego blocks to make sure the molds were square to the false keel. The keel assembly is just resting on the false keel for now. As per the instructions, I also made sure the tops of the molds and the false keel were flush with the table:
 

 

 
Any suggestions or other comments will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Here is my build log for the Bounty Launch. I have been highly inspired by the wonderful work of teleman (Mario) on his launch, and I know this will not come very close to that level of craftsmanship.This is my fifth model in about as many years and the first that has been somewhat commissioned, as my wife asked me to make something smaller to go on the fireplace mantel. I plan to paint the exterior but leave the interior natural. If I get the birthday present I asked for, I'll be experimenting with a new airbrush for the exterior painting.
 
I am really pleased with the contents of this kit. All of the planking has been laser cut, which will help me a lot as this is only my second POB model. I am going to try to use the supplied cherry for the frames, but if this proves too difficult to work with I will switch to basswood.
 
Here is the start of the construction of the keel and stem:
 

 
And here are the molds with the sheer alignment tabs added:
 

 
Thanks for your attention.

One thing to keep in mind is that when dealing with store bought dowels of any wood species, it is very difficult to know if the grain is running the length of the piece or not. In many cases, they grain is running across the piece in some way and that is one reason why dowels like that are prone to warping etc.
 
By beginning with a piece of straight hardwood stock, it is easier to get the grain running all in one direction to ensure that the piece will not tend to warp. Of course having good stock to begin with helps.
 
Russ

Querty......... that is amazing.  The way you did that....... put it in piece by piece and glued it together.  This is completely different compared to a long and narrow boat.
Excellent work and a WOW factor.
Marc

avsjerome2003: thanks for the videos and the one that would work for me is the one with the vice and the saw blade and that would be for large diameter dowels.  All the other vid's are people who have elaborate work shops which I don't have and don't really want to have.
 
russ: I am doing the suggestion you made in a somewhat different way.  I did go to woodcraft.com to buy dowels from beech and maple and some of different imported hardwoods.  If I need a 7mm mast I purchase the 8mm and just sand it down.  That also goes from the 5mm to the 4mm.  I have some square dowels and I will practice what I have in several of my books.  From square to octagon to round.
 
Thanks for the suggestions.
Marc

Since I couldn't work on my 1:48 scale Triton cross section as much as I would like I decided to make a smaller one in a bottle. I went mostly by memory for the design it is made mostly from card and balsa wood the cannons were turned from bamboo on my drill press all the coloring was done with redwood stain and black Rust-Oleum spray paint sprayed into a jar then thinned (probably a bit too much note the bleeding on one of the cannon carriages) with acetone. I made the model in pieces so that I could fit it threw the neck of the bottle then I assembled it inside the bottle it came out a little crooked but looks OK. I still need to put on some finishing touches on the outside of the bottle before I'm done it took less then two days to to get to this point.
 

This is a very good place to buy wood for people close to the Hampton Roads area, (South East Virginia and North East North Carolina).  They have a extensive selection including exotics.  http://www.yukonlumber.com
 
Cheers,
Tim

This area of the forum was a great resource for information on where to buy various types of wood. Let's rebuild that information using our collective knowledge and experience. I've given credit in parenthesis to those who have contributed the name of that source.

Sources of milled wood (Australia):
Modellers Shipyard (Shazmira) - A limited selection of sheet and strip stock. They also have kits, tools, and other supplies. Ships internationally.
 
Sources of milled wood (Germany):
Arkowood (TRJ) - A bit on the expensive side, but good for smaller quantities. All major wood varieties, including swiss pear, box, lime.
Massivholzwerkstätten Horschig (Redshirt) - Good assortment of wood, high accuracy and good price.
 
Sources of milled wood (UK):
Hobby's (AntonyUK)
JoTiKa (Marsares)
Cornwall Boat Models (Marsares)
The Model Dockyard (Marsares)
 
 
Sources of milled wood (USA):
Ocooch - Good source for milled sheetwood of all species but no Boxwood, swiss pear or holly.
Syren - sheets and strips of milled Boxwood, Alaskan Yellow Cedar and Swiss Pear.
Itasca - Mainly a source for basswood. Their "Half Price" wood is still of good quality and excellent value. $20 minimum order size. 20% military discount.
National Balsa - Another source for basswood, Maple, Cheerry. More expensive than Itasca, but they have a greater range of sizes and have lots of dowels.
tallships_model_builder (themadchemist) - An eBay store with several items targeted towards model ship builders (eg. Deck planking and sheet wood). May be willing to cut custom sizes for you.
http://www.northeasternscalelumber.com/shop/index.php?PHPSESSID=fbf4aea8bc5623641aa53ab405ec4c6a - Northeastern Scale Lumber
 
I'm adding my list of US suppliers of lumber.  Given the market they may or may not have the wood you want.  IF they do have it, order it, don't wait as they will run out.  
All Righteous Woods Bod Nosen Colonial Hardwoods, Inc. CookWoods Dyes Exotic Wood, Birdseye Maple, Curly Maple & Tiger Maple Bell Forest Products Gilmer Wood Company Griffin Exotic Wood--High Quality Exotic Woods Groffslumberr hearnehardwoods.com- Inlay Banding, Ebony and Holly Wood Products Kettle Moraine Hardwoods, Inc., Hartford, WI Midwest Products National Balsa Wood Co- Balsa wood, Basswood, Mahogany, Architectural Models, Model RC Aircraft, Savox Servos Ocooch Hardwoods - Supplier of Thin Wood for Scroll Sawing, Carving Blocks, Intarsia wood, Plywood for scroll sawing, and more. Rare and Exotic Lumber in Maine - Rare Woods USA Rare Woods USA Rockler.com S.H. Goode & Sons Workshop Specialty Wood Exotic Lumber Exotic Woods - Keim Lumber The Wood Database Tropical Exotic Hardwoods Welcome to the World of Hardwoods Wood Project Source - milled wood sheets and strips and wood carving blocks woodcraft.com- Woodfinder® Marketplace Woodworkers Source for Imported, Rare, Specialty, Exotic Woo    
Sources of rough lumber (Australia):
Trend Timbers (1492) - Local, imported and exotic timbers.
Anagote Timbers (Jim Lad) - Local and imported timbers. Named after a pet goat called Anna.
Australian Furniture Timbers (BANYAN) - A wide selection of timbers. Avilable in 1 meter lengths.
 
Sources of rough lumber (UK):
Workshop Heaven (AntonyUK) - Various sized chunks of exotic wood
Yandles (Kevin)
 
Sources of rough lumber (Spain)
Maderas Barber (ymperivm)

Sources of rough/billets lumber (USA):
Gilmer Wood Company - Mainly Exotic wood and much of it highly figured. The main species of interest for ship modelers will be boxwood, ebony, and holly. $100 USD minimum order for Internet purchases, no minimum for walk-in purchases. Ships internationally.
Cookwoods (mtaylor) - Exotic hardwoods. Ships internationally.
Righteous Woods (davec) - Domestic, imported and exotic timbers. $100 USD minimum order for Internet purchases. Ships internationally.
Tallgrass Custom Wood Productsfff382 (Thairinker) - Domestic hardwoods. Located in Kansas, does not appear to offer shipping.
Woodworkers Source (Sephirem) - Domestic and imported. Lumber is organized based on geographic region that it comes from.
Rare Woods USA (ChrisLBren) - Ships to Continental USA only for online orders, but is free for orders >$100 with conditions.

Sources of rough lumber (global):
A local hardwood store - Usually a great place to buy domestic wood and some exotics. I have seen ebony and purpleheart at Woodcraft.
A local hardwood flooring store (muzzleloader) - Mahogany, maple, cherry and other hard woods. Inquire about sales of remnants at bargain prices.


A note on Gilmer:
This is a local business for me so I am fortunate that I can visit. If you've purchased milled Castello Boxwood for your model then it probably came from here. They told me that they don't have a source for this wood anymore, but in addition to the large stack of wood towering over me they also had a bunch more in another warehouse. The Castello Boxwood starts out as rough 8/4 (2" thick) boards around 6" wide and 7' long. When the stock on their website gets low they pull down a board, clean it up in a planer, spray with shellac to bring out the color, then seal the ends with wax. They told me if I was to buy a board off the top of the stack it would be $30 a board foot (1"x12"x12") but that if I wanted to dig through the stack they'd up the price to $35 per board foot. Indeed, the chunks on their website were about $35 a board foot when I last ran the numbers. Ebony is tricky stuff as it all looks the same in pictures so ask them to select a board with straight grain, if you tell them it is for a ship model they will understand what you need. When I was there last they showed me how to hold the ebony to the light to check the grain for straightness. Also don't be too concerned if the description of Castello Boxwood on the website is "figured" as that is what they listed my piece of wood as and it was actually fairly straight. Not all wood can be sold to customers outside of the USA because of laws to protect endangered species.

There is a store in my area called The Woodsmith Store.they have a fair selection of birch & walnut dowels although I could not find them on their website.They also have a good selection of exotic woods.
 
Mark

You will not find the dowels in the more interesting species. Usually you  get birch or basswood in ready made dowels. For the any other species, you will need to get square stock and make your own dowels from that.
 
Russ

Home Depot or Lowes have a good choice of dowels. Try AC Moore or Michaels if any are near you.

In the Uk Birch dowel is very common and available in a wide range of sizes - this is the material used in the Caldercraft kits, walnut seems to be common as well. I suggest you pop along to your local timber stockist ahd have a look at what joinery timbers they stock. Again in the UK its not uncommon for building stockists to carry a range of round hardwood dowels.
 
Norman

Continuing with the yards and rigging.  Private e-mails before the crash have asked about how to obtain clean lines between colors.  Here, the stuns'l booms are painted black at the inboard and outboard ends.  The process here was sanding to shape the booms, water based stain (which raises the grain), sanding, applying clear flat acrylic to seal the wood, further raising the grain (without some sort of sealing, paint bleed under the masking tape), light sanding, a second coat of acrylic, masking with fine line 3M tape and painting black, two coats. 
 
Rigging the fore topmast yard.  Priciple references were McGowen, McKay, Longridge, JoTika plans and a few hundred photographs of HMS Victory.  However, one is challenged by the fact that captains, sailing masters and bos'n mates continually changed small aspects of the rigging, even underway. Hence, what you have presented here is my interpretation from several sources.  Some of you may well have a different take on the rigging.
Lifting block on the main topmast yard. Fore topmast lifting block stropped with served line.  One eye completed with a tail to lash the block to the yard. A second eye to be completed.
Fore topmast lift block ready to lash to the yard.
Above:  Main topmast yard.  Below:  Fore topmast yard rigged.
Fore topmast yard "pinned" to fore mast. fore topmast yard sheet and clue line block added.
Clue line originates at lashing on yard, passes to clue line block and returns to block under yard.
Clue line continues from block on yard to block aft and under mast cap.
Clue line terminates at bitts aft of foremast.
Top mast yard sheet (larger block) and topping lift (smaller block).
Port yard tie originates at topmast top.
Tie extends to lift block (center of yard) and up to starboard block (on a pennant). And then extendstowards the deck to a tackle.
Tie extends to tackle secured at aft end of fore channel.
Termination of port tie tackle
Tackle line secures at kevel opposite the mast.
Starboard topmast yard tie is exact opposite, terminating on the port side.
Tackle for ties seen aft of fore top.
Topping lift originating at topmast cap.
Topping lift through block at end of yard.
Topping lift through lower sister block (in shrouds), then down to shroud cleats.
Yard ties, yard sheets, clue lines and topping lifts rigged.  Braces deferred to allow better access for main topmast yard.  Parral to be added later. Bunt lines and leach lines to be added later.