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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. I've been in contact with Michael Mjelde and boy oh boy do I have some news for you all. Mike has been in touch with a professional shipwright in Australia who through much effort by using every available photograph and being a designer of *DownEasters*, has designed and produced accurate drawings of the Glory of the Seas. Mike is meeting with me this weekend and we will discuss my own current project and he will be giving me a copy of the hull plans......... I will be getting him to autograph my two volumes he has written on the subject and If I am very fortunate I might get a peek at his new manuscript of his new book on the Glory of the Seas. I am like a kid in a candy store. Best wishes to all.... Rob
  2. Well I completely disagree. This vessel is not the Young America. This vessel has only 5 yards on her for and main...the YA had 6. this vessel definitely has the shrouds and deadeyes originating from on or within the bulwark (a typically British method for her composite ships). The stern ornamentation location is incorrectly located...not to mention the blatant poop rounded exterior...which is very much a British clipper design. Lets not forget the chain plates and channels which are NOT exterior or below the planksheer. These items alone would require significant hull and rigging modifications. Note the existence of a fifth shroud on the mizzen. If Ed did his do diligence,(And I know he did), he would have never made this mistake on his model. And I find it hard to believe she would have been modified to mimic a British clipper. No Monkey gaff and the gentleman in the for ground appears to be wearing a Bowler hat......come on....(Had to throw that in there). I can see far too many inconsistencies for me to be comfortable saying this vessel is the YA. Personally I think this old image was incorrectly identified by an uniformed bystander. Rob
  3. Well since it's getting cold outside...it usually means I have to have the material laid, and trawled out in about 10 minutes. If it was warmer even less. That mean the initial set has occurred and I can begin carving down any over exaggerated material shortly there after. I generally prefer the material to be totally dry so I can carve and sand without clogging my discs. I spent some time sanding and filling also tonight...this I'll let cure over night and will work some more after work tomorrow. Just to keep this build interesting...I plan on using lots of dental materials in its construction. I will be using UVL cured cements to afix the main and monkey rails..not to mention any and all the sheer and chainplate structures and moldings. UVL cements cure instantly and become a hard plastic...10 times stronger then typical type cements. Plus this makes the build go by far more rapidly. No waiting for glues to dry...just zap the cement with a UV light and done. We're getting there folks. Rob
  4. Spent a little time prepping the starboard side for silicone stone application. Rob
  5. Back to my insanity. I laid down the sub veneer on the port side....once dried I will then again begin adding the coats of acrylic stone to form this side of the hull. The starboard side has its second coat already and it is dry...a few more touch-ups and it will be ready for final finishing. I'm waiting to get the starboard side to the same level of finish before I finish both sides together. I pray, I have not lost a faithful audience...thinking I have gone completely mad..straying away from hard and true planking techniques for a back alley quick remedy for success. However I have always contended that I use unorthodox techniques and materials when I build my models. Remember friends it is the finished product that maters...not how we get there. Here are some pics of the doings from my frankensteinian laboratory...... Rob
  6. Great sleuthing Clipper fan. I had realized she had very tall sides...39 1/2 ft was my goal...but the new eval of 40' 10" makes sense. Just use deductive comparison analysis....look at these already posted images to see what I mean. Look at the height of her sides above the copper line and the height of her gunals from main deck level.
  7. Oh my..no need to be apologetic....you just get better and we'll see you when you recover. Let your wife tend to you and take it easy...we'll still be here and roaring along. God bless you and for a quick full recovery. Rob
  8. I applied a second coat of material today and worked on contouring the hull...paying close attention to the concaved entry and exit. I first build up...then I take down to the correct shape. I will let this session dry and then I will go back to the port side and finish up laying the sub planks and then begin adding the stone. I like working in these materials because I have enormous amounts of experience with then...knowing setting times and working times. Once final curves have been established and smoothed I will add a final wash to fill in any small inconsistencies. I will be coppering the hull too so many minor blemishes will disappear beneath the copper. A finishing coat of latex paint will seal any pores left in the stone. Here are some pics of todays work. Rob
  9. Thanks for asking Roger. I sand laterally, so as not to create ribbes or washboarding. I do comparative work...by means of using known template dimensions and comparing to the actual hull..via photographs. She was a full tall hull...compared to that of a man of war. Rob
  10. Removed pins and flipped the hull over to apply first coat of silicone stone on the starboard side. I'll let it all dry and tomorrow sand and apply correction filler. Rob
  11. To everyone. The stone is rigid as stone, sand able and is formable. I wanted to try this method because it’s unique. Plus I’m very familiar with dental materials and their manipulation. Once finished it will paint well and will be un-noticeable as anything but a well formed hull. I challenge anyone to suggest my application will be anything less then what is expected. I love doing things Waaaay outside the box. Things so unorthodox and unexpected that the experienced are even betting against me. Stay tuned and be patient. I can feel a buckle coming loose on my straight jacket.
  12. Today I spent some more time in the asylum and added a bit more stone to the hull. It is slow going because I wait for each application to dry before moving on. Rob
  13. Now we're getting into weird territory. I've opted to begin covering the hull in silicone impregnated dental stone. I'll trawel it in slowly and when set and dry, sand and continue the process. I used this process once before and it works out nicely. the jull then can me smoothed and sanded and added to till I get a perfect smooth finish. Hang in there with me.....and let's see how this goes. I'm excited, because it eliminates hours if not tons of hours laying precision planking and accounting for the curves and flexes associated with planking. And so my insanity continues. Here are several pics of the first application of the silicone stone.... Rob
  14. Working my way back with the initial planking and continuing along the keel
  15. I began adding the initial maple planking.....her shape is coming to life. Rob
  16. I'm not too concerned with the leading edges and the rail at this time...I will cut that all in later.....I'm concerned with the convex and concaved elements of the hull....so I will make sure I have good form...filling in the small pieces will follow....then the hull will get a good sanding and prepped for the final planking. Here we goooooo. Rob
  17. Dug up some of the veneer that I will use for the initial hull planking. It is maple and very flexible and malleable for the job. Rob
  18. Spent a couple of hours working on the stern and prepping for the first layer of veneer planking to be added. Here are some pics of the hull flipped and some work being done to the stern. Rob
  19. Once these were all installed....I opted to add(for reinforcement purposes) the subdeck. All this wood if from existing stock I have and is nice clear pine. It has some staining from storage for for 35 years...but it is good malleable wood and easy to work. I cut out the sub deck and glued it in place. I added weights to maintain proper contact with the new deck bulkheads. I will work up the fantail and the stern after I have this portion completed. It will provide a sturdy foundation for adding these elements. I plan on planking the hull in similar fashion...then plank it again with scale planks. Rob
  20. Returning to the shipyard after some time away.... Enjoyed a wonderful holiday away with the family...found and modified a nice 7" Mak Cass telescope, by de-forking it and removing its internal counterweight and mounting it on a German Equatorial mount..... Now its time to get to work on the Glory. I picked up where I left off by now adding the new deck beam bulkheads. To align and give the proper deck chamfer and inclination. Here are some pics of the addition of these members to the bulkheads. Rob
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