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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. rwiederrich
    Stepped the mizzenmast. Once dry I will clean things up and roughly belay lines out of the way. Then I’ll probably begin the mainmast rigging off model. Rob
  2. rwiederrich
    Securing down the dingy and long boat. Rob
  3. rwiederrich
    Took a few corrected images. Rob
  4. rwiederrich
    I found and ordered the large 18" cleat I have been looking for....that I will be mounting Glory to. I will machine a groove along the top leading edge of the cleat to house the keel of Glory. Then the cleat will be painted and detailed and mounted on a fine piece of 100 year old maple. This will be my *Unique* mounting I have devised for displaying Glory in all her glory....(No pun intended) Of course I will take pics of the project as I build it......when the cleat arrives. I'm stoked to have found what I have been searching for, for as long as I have been building her. Rob
  5. rwiederrich
    I don’t know why my phone keeps doing that. Rob
  6. rwiederrich
    Sideways again. Darn
  7. rwiederrich
    Well I finished up the bowsprit guys. Here are some pics. I deleted these funky images and will post correct ones later. Sorry.
  8. rwiederrich
    Spent some time working on the port bowsprit guys. Rob
  9. rwiederrich
    Rick…..do you have a build log? Rob
  10. rwiederrich
    George, being the general modeling hack that I am, over the 40 years of my collecting kits , I have accumulated thousand of blocks from various models such as Cutty Sark, Connie, Alabama, Corsage,……you name it I modify their blocks for my own purposes. Each one may get restropped, painted , bracketed and hooked or looped to make them suitable. As is my habit, I will reuse any part or combinations of parts of previously engineered items for my purposes. It is the end result that matters, NOT, how I got there. Thanks for asking. Rob
  11. rwiederrich
    Thanks Rick. Actually I’m retired ……but I was a DDN. A Denturist. Kinda like a prosthodontist, but my specialty was removable and maxiofacial prosthetics. Now I’m just a humble procurer of clipper ship relics. Rob
  12. rwiederrich
    Sweet job for sure Rick310. Beautiful finish....clean and precise. Rob
  13. rwiederrich
    Sweet job Rob..... Love a little lathe work thrown in there now and again. Rob
  14. rwiederrich
    Interesting Rich......I never noticed this before, or if I did, I dismissed it....but I see some type of bracket beneath the lower channel, between the first and second, fourth and fifth and the tenth and eleventh chain plates? Interesting......Seams to be on all three masts plates....... Can you confirm this on any other images of her? Rob
  15. rwiederrich
    And here we go Nenad.....tops are being made.......good job. Oh...I can't believe you're going on, or are on 9 years for this log....what an adventure. Keep going strong... Rob
  16. rwiederrich
    I always install my foot ropes first...then install the stirrups. Never have a problem with string curling. since I hydrate the string forming it straight. Bammmnnnn! Rob
  17. rwiederrich
    You humble me Vlad. If I was only that fast. Fortunately for me, I have an advantage over you in that, I have been rigging clipper ships for over 48 years and their rig is no surprise to me. You are doing it right...study, study, study. Familiarize yourself with the terms and the functions of each line and you will have good success, and your model will be an *accurate* scale model. When I get criticism from experts on any possible error I may have made, I can confidently claim the so called error was one of Artistic expression based upon a number of unsubstantiated possibilities, NOT on factual atypical practice I failed to replicate. Keep educating yourself and you will do fine. you have thus far. Rob.
  18. rwiederrich
    No.....Actually it is another of my modeling hacks. First I used stainless steel wire(any good extremely stiff wire will do, and glued a length from stem to stern of the boat to create the peek for the cover. Typically this was a run of rope or a specifically made pole and the canvas was laid over that. (Creating a peek so rain water would roll off like a roof) I then ran masking tape right along the wire and formed one side of the canvas. Cleaning the edges and forming them correctly. Then I ran the other half of tape joining the other side at the centerline. Again pressing against the edge or gunnal of the boat to press the tape down snugly. Once finished and trimmed up nicely the canvas was painted grey. I used epoxy paint because it seals the tape down nicely. Any good paint will seal the tape down and to itself I'm sure. I used plain masking tape because it retains a nice micro dimpled appearance of real canvas. Then I added the draw ties along the canvas edge and weathered the entire arrangement. I've used this technique on nearly all my models for over 40 years and I have seen no failures of the tape method. Paint covers a multitude of sins. Rob
  19. rwiederrich
    Some pics keep coming out sideways. Grrrrrrrrrr Let me try again. 😢 Sorry
  20. rwiederrich
    I had to finish up some left over minor work on Glory’s fore fife rail. I added the lower brace and the pins. Here are some pics of the work and down the hull/deck Rob
  21. rwiederrich
    I can’t speak for Kevin, but my process uses India ink diluted in 99%~100% isopropyl alcohol , then sprayed onto your deck/model. When the alcohol evaporates it leaves the dark diluted ink. Which finds the cracks and highlights detail. Weathering the surface. Then I highlight that with chalks Other similar techniques vary. Rob
  22. rwiederrich
    I hope the process works out swell for you. The smaller the scale, the less detail required. I used a ponce wheel when I was creating my plates back when I built the Great Republic.....but that method proved to be far too time consuming for me and for the time spent,...produced few plates for my labors. So I opted for another method that I devised. I was going to emboss each 8" strip of copper tape with segment lines and nail impressions....all in the same pass through my repurposed clothes roller. I could roll out hundreds of these pre-impressed tape tiles to cover the over 2500 plates I would need for the job. I, again used this method, when I copper plated my current Glory of the Seas hull. Now, since neither of these vessels was plated with copper...but with muntz metal...I opted to paint the entire coppered hull with a metalic paint that mimicked the color of oxidized muntz....NOT copper. I don't like shinny. Here is a pic of the finished tape strips. and finished hull/model. Good luck in your plating adventures.
  23. rwiederrich
    Vlad....if your build was mostly a product of 3D printed parts...I would agree with your opinion to remake them. But in this particular instance, the hand craftedness is harmoniously and attractively incorporated within the hand craftedness of the entire build. Plus as the model is passed from family or friend on down the line...it will retain its earthyness and attractiveness as a hand made model. Go get-em. Rob
  24. rwiederrich
    Why do that? You will remove a hand made element of your build. My hoods scroll work is far from perfect...but it is hand made and hand painted. Its an imperfect aspect of my build, that makes my build more tangible and authentic. IMHV. However, do what you think best. Rob
  25. rwiederrich
    No...make sure you get the dust jacket with the book....they are usually provided...since the artwork is on it. Some later copies of Glory of the Seas may provide photographic corrections, but that is usually not noticed unless you have both older and newer copies. You shouldn't have any issues with this book...it is a great resource. Good luck. Rob

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