rwiederrich
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Everything posted by rwiederrich
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In this image the pillow block for the pump shaft is sitting right on top of the fife rail proper. Notice the row of pins with rope around them just forward of the pump flywheel. This is the same rail the flywheel pillow block is bolted to. Also the lower rail is also just inside the flywheel and it is directly beneath the top fife rail the pins are located on.. I'm not seeing the structure you suggest the pump crank shaft is mounted upon. All these images I have provided definitely show the flywheel on the outside of the fife rail...regardless of the internal suspected structure. The image of the green pump shown earlier clearly demonstrates the pumps pillow blocks are bolted to the fife rail proper....despite the flywheel location. I fully appreciate your tenaciousness concerning accuracy(It has been our constant companion).....but... I think this issue is clearly in favor of my position. With that said, I don't think it is a deal killer....making our efforts to accurately construct the best model of Glory we can any less accurate. Since...it is her hull and its dimensions that really was the crux of our efforts to begin with. Style and types of deck furnishings and furniture...without absolute clear and accurate descriptions specific to Glory, can afford to diverge with each builders preferences. Rob
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Metal bashing
rwiederrich replied to michael mott's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Just amazing wood working and application using metal and wood seamlessly. Just wonderful to look at Michael. Rob -
Be patient with the process. Remember, less is more. Good luck and I’ll be watching Rob
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Any crack attracts the alcohol ink. It will flow easily when sprayed with a spray bottle. You can also control the volume you wish to apply as well. It dries matt and is a very good weathering technique as well. I used this technique on all my plastic models. On my wood models I use powders for weathering instead. Do NOT use denatured alcohol or rubbing....it has additives that inhibit flow. Use clear Isopropyl. The great thing about using alcohol as the transport mechanism.....is, it evaporates and leaves the thinned out ink behind. Leaving an almost dusty/dirty natural look. You can speed up the drying time by way of a blow dryer or fan. I'm enjoying your approach to building this classic.... Rob
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When she was S.S. Servia...she retained her yards on her masts? I see you removed them. As H.M.S.....was this the practice....or shall we say....an *Upgrade* or modernization she under went? You did a great job on her and the case you made, shows her off wonderfully. Congrats..... Rob
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I agree. Copper tape once removed from its paper backing does not flake. It is entirely copper, it would de-glue and come off the hull as an entire plate.. Not like what might be seen on a silver plated copper ring. Then again...that doesn't *Flake*, but wear's off. I'm not entirely sure what type of copper plating the O/P originally used on his hull. Without actually seeing with my own eyes up close...and only having the image he provided...it looks more like some form of etching is taking place then *flaking*, where as a touch of paint and some varnish might just be the corrective ticket. Short of removing it all and re coppering. That just doesn't sound fun at all.....not even just now as I said it. American pennies are copper plated zinc...and the copper doesn't flake off but can be rubbed or polished off. Interesting situation...we have here. Rob
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Good work.... I didn't realize the Flying Fish had bared windows. Being a McKay extreme clipper, I would have expected her to have similar window treatments as his other clippers. The end result is clean and well executed. Rob
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Plus the varnish may similarly react with the metal finish and aid its retention to the paper backing. In essence *gluing* it to the backing. Rob
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Lubbering Kevin....Good day my friend. Wonderful 3D work indeed. Hey...what *Ink* process are you using to highlight your woodwork? I know when I built my last Revell Kit of CS,(12 years ago), I used black india ink diluted in isopropyl alcohol. Sprayed on it dried very quickly(the alcohol evaporates) and leaves a weathered look...where the ink capilates (Capillary action) into all the cracks. Looks pretty cool.... Nice weathering technique. Just wondering what you use ink for? Wonderful job. Rob
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All due respect, Rich...I'm not quite sure what you are talking about. In every image the flywheels are mounted just outside of the fife rail proper...on both port and starboard sides and the flywheel diameter is nearly flush with the fife rail head. This really bad image shows this. Rob
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In This particular optical illusion, I had no hand in. After further review, I've decided to complete the mizzen, than move directly to finishing up the head gear on the bowsprit. Because this rigging is standing and can be considered part of the hull...and I want to finish this up....so their will be no interference with the masts once they are installed. Rob
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Great update and pics Vlad. Your corrections and alterations make the difference for sure. Super job...she is definitely polishing up. Rob
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Finished up the top gallant yard. Pictured are the upper and lower topsails and newly finished top gallant. Next is the royal and……bam….I’ll begin on the shrouds. Rob
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Keith…….you can do it. I simply paint the shiny glued stropping flat black. I will be adding the mizzenmast shrouds soon myself on my Glory. Post some images when you can. Rob
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Started the top gallant yard and preparing to add the furled sail. Rob
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I've long gone away from using my unaided eyes. I need my magnifying head band to do nearly all the work on my Glory. I'm just so thankful I still have steady hands. Keep the post coming..... Rob
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Man Vlad...you're speeding along.....getting those carpenters to work over time. Great job...very nice. The only deck work I still have to do myself is add the lower rail frame to the fore mast fife rail and mount the port and starboard davits. They are easily bumped...so I'm waiting for now. Great job man..... Rob
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Thanks Rich. Personally, I have never replicated a tightly furled sail before, but after great experimentation and comparison.....realistic weathered furled sails are extremely problematic...because the sail control blocks and furling beckets need to be correctly replicated while still presenting a good scale sail. I wanted to go in a direction that was unexpected...considering the subject vessel. Nothing is perfect...especially in the real world and replicating this imperfection is my aim...I just don't want a bulky cloth sail, but sails that can lend to the realism and not be a distraction but a compliment. I've probably put more time and attention into this part of the build as I have into any other single aspect and I pray when completed, commutatively they will make this model *POP*. Glory of the Seas deserves my full creative resources. Again...thanks for your fine compliments. Rob
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MAKING EYE'S AND HOOKS
rwiederrich replied to Peter6172's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Actually...this is quite true. These are so easy to make too. I just cut a piece of wire about an inch long...crease it back onto itself, forming a *U*. Then grip the two ends with a plier....then using a *Hook* of the desired size(Diameter of the eye) in a pin vice, I hook the looped wire and then turn the wire, winding it, onto itself. when the turns are tight, prior to breaking, I cut the shank to the desired length. Then slide the pad eye off the *Hook*. Easy- Peasy.... Rob -
It takes an overall view to really see the effect. We tend to see sails furled loosely....with puffs of sail hanging symmetrical along the yard....but rarely do we see sails tightly bundled across the top of the yard. An entire sail, pulled up and bunched and rolled and attempted to be smooth over a jackstay laden yard. Creating ridges and folds to increase the effect can be daunting. Finished off with some slight weathering and stain/chafing details. It looks fuller once the beckets were installed and I added the sheet support rollers/eyes under the yard(Not shown in pics). Rob
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Once all the yards are finished for this mast…..I will then rig the shrouds. Mixin it up from my GR method…….keeping the Monotony at bay. Rob
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Spent some time finishing up the upper topsail. When I mount the yards I will run the sheets and downhauls. Still need to add the bunt blocks. Rob
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MAKING EYE'S AND HOOKS
rwiederrich replied to Peter6172's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I make 3 sizes for my 1/96 models. Wrap wire around a specially made hook(3 sizes) in a pin vice and twist it to form the eye. Rob
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Indeed. The S shaped rungs acted as wind generating fans to aid in cooling the pump members from ever heating during continual use. The metal bushings used as bearings(Within the iron pillow blocks) for the iron crank shaft to turn through, were most likely made from *Oil-lite*...an oil impregnated soft bronze metal widely used when there was going to be metal to metal contact. Rob
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