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Everything posted by rwiederrich
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Glory's futtock shrouds were either metal cable or iron bar. I suspect they were iron bar...because the bars acted as support structure for the tops. Because...remember..... the top cross members do not interfere with the lubbers hole....making the top less rigid from an engineering/structural stand point. But bracing the outer section of the top with 3 strong iron futtock shrouds that bolted to the futtock iron mast band makes all things quite rigid. Rob
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In essence this is true. Standing rigging was weathered by means of a blackening(most likely dark, dark brown). A tar based preservative was applied to protect the line from rot. Though lanyards are sometimes considered running rigging (falsely),because they are basically a pulley...they are brought taught...securing the shroud, then secured tightly and for their protection, coated in a dark tar/varnish like substance to protect the line from the damaging results of salt/sea/sun weathering. In essence the lanyard is part of the standing rigging. Rob
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Well we try to humble ourselves every day. No one likes to *remake* what they have been toiling over and thinks is a *Masterpiece*, to learn it is anything but and needs replacing. The brutal task of being true to the prototype, forces us to correct our own mistakes and gently point out those of others. We scratch builders can be a finicky bunch. Rob
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You betcha. there are some small details that have been overlooked....but I be Rich can find a newspaper clipping that identifies the Patented capstan design McKay used...I know I've read it somewhere. I might hold off till I know for sure if you have that freedom after consulting with Rich. Personally, I added period capstans that may or may not be arguably as accurate as was actually used on Glory....but as you say...there is still some freedom of expression there. Some small details that are undocumented can be artistically created at the modelers convenience. I wait to see what you come up with. Rob
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The worst thing is to notice an inaccuracy....and then to muster up the nerve to tell you...just after you spent all that time and skill. but it is far more important that you get it right...then be inconvenienced. I can't speak for Rich...but I struggle when I see an inaccuracy.....do I just let it pass....not wishing to appear prudish...and let your fine model retain its error.....or do I bravely point it out so you can enjoy the most accurate model you can produce. its clear you want the latter. Oh....one thing...are you going to treat your mast and yards with a coat of varnish or simply leave them raw.....? Rob
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Kevin....if you continue along in the log you will see the corrected drawings we commutatively developed...with Michael Mjelde's approval. His drawing are correct for the most part...but are grossly inaccurate in her cutwater and stern, not to mention on a few of her deck trimmings and furniture. Remember he did these drawings many decades ago with no peer review...no second set of eyes. We have the benefit of several enthusiastic researchers who are tenacious about details. Plus we have the great wealth of Mikes unpublished photographic library. Please continue along and you will devise as we did the most accurate replication of Glory to this day. Plus you have the extra added benefit of having Glory of the Seas built , replicating both her early and later years...representing her many added modifications. A fully printed version would be an amazing thing to behold as well as 3D printing can smoothly and seamlessly recreate finer details if done well. Good luck in your adventure.....and do your research well. It can be as rewarding as the build itself. I believe Vladmir has the original CAD drawings he used to have bulkheads laser cut from. He would be the true source to look to for this kind of information. I would follow your build log in a hurry. Rob
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Thanks Kevin……they sure are eye catching. This plan is in Michael Mjelde’s second book about Glory of the Seas. Rob
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When originally rigged these ships did not sport the stationary lower topsail(Typical of the Howes design), but were later converted. The Great Republic was built before all of of these other examples and actually, McKay originally built her with Forbes Double topsails....the Originator of the double topsail.. Howes didn't invent the double topsail...he merely modified it and made it more practical. McKay recognized the benefits of the rig and first used it on GR. Prior to that most clippers used single topsails that were large single sails....the topgallent was just as large and hence was the Royal. I gathered that the Champion as originally designed, was of the sail plan depicted in the photograph, but was later re-rigged with Howes double topsails Since Lightning and Champion were build a year later then GR....I wondered why they were not *Originally* built with Howes rigged double topsails. It's just curious to me. In short(Or long, dependent how interested you are), Champion in this photograph, was built over a year after GR and she only carried a main, a single topsail, and a Royal. she didn't even carry a topgallant, which was typical of this period clipper. Great Republic, a year earlier(as originally designed), carried on her main mast.....a Mainsail...upper and lower topsails...a single topgallant....and a Royal. When rebuilt a year later(as Howes rigged) she sported her mainsail...double topsails....topgallant....Royal and skysail. Champion in this image only carried 3 sails per mast....strange...😏. Must been taken earlier then when she posted her record 24 hour log of 20 knots per hour. Rob
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One other note concerning this image of Champion of the Seas. She was built in 1854 an extreme clipper larger then Glory at 2447 tons. But.... Why on earth would she be sporting only mains, topsails and royals? Was this sail configuration part of McKay's scheme to increase her speed.(she was fast...20 knots) ..what methodology was he following....or theorizing? Rob
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Great job Vlad...but before you glue that pump down, correct the flywheel's location .... They are not on the inside of the rail, but the outside. How do you suspect a human is suppose to hold the handle on the pump and rotate it with it on the inside of the fife rail? People always seam to get this wrong. Rob
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I have to make some mods/corrections to solidify accuracy in the sails....but We're getting there. Good eye....yes indeedy...I'm making us of the preformed blocks that are actually pretty much in scale for this particular build. They will easily blend in to the overall build. I make sure I have several color changes between blocks...since they were wood and they weathered differently due to their location and use on the vessel. Some darker(Oiled, less UV's) and some bleached(Peeling varnish, checked). It's all about creating a *Natural Randomness*....... Nothing is perfect...nothing. Thanks for the fine comments. Rob
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Thanks Pat... It can be a struggle to create convincing enough tightly furled sails. You have to capture the uneven rolled/tufted effect without the sail appearing overly exaggerated or comical. I added some slight detailing to the surface of the sail to break up any uniformity and lend greater detail as to what might be expected in tightly rolled canvas that is furled over jackstays and banding. Still needing to add becket banding/straps and run the chain sheets for the topsail. I might even add some whiter highlights to emphasize reflections. Its knowing when to stop and to know when less is more. Thanks for the fine comments. Rob
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I still have much detailing to add to the sail. Beckets(straps) still need to be installed. I’ll probably add the chain sheets for the top topsail. Rob
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You're on your way to rigging mastery. Just remember that book includes rigging for several types of ships....avoid the iron carriers and stick with the wooden descriptions(Those would generally be the clippers). And some descriptions are referenced for both types...because the function was identical. Those descriptions can also be used. Have fun. Rob
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"Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier" A used one of Ebay for $28~ $60 Rob
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