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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. rwiederrich
    I made the eye bolts and the blocks and hung all 18 head bunt line blocks under their prospective tops. The pics are of the mizzenmast and main masts. Rob
  2. rwiederrich
    I’ve built a 6”f/15 refractor and a10”f/15 refractor. And in my younger days, staying out all night and enduring the cold was a passion. Now…..not so much. My 7” Mac is much easier to set up and put away. Less time freezing by myself. Long after everyone has hit the hay. Rob
  3. rwiederrich
    Indeed. Creating something from total scratch or modifying something from some totally different other thing is a testament to a strong mental prowess….. a fruitful imagination and ingenuity. 3D printing like Astro photography lend heavily to good computer skills and adeptness to combining software to hardware for good results. I praise masters of both……..I’m old school….a simple man. Thanks again Rob
  4. rwiederrich
    Kevin…….I appreciate your fine comments. Im a scratch builder and I haven’t done any 3D printing. I have friends who do and it’s amazing. You can create via a computer almost any 3D object. Make your own parts. That is pretty cool. I make my own parts, but from Lots of previously engineered things. I love creating from what’s around me. Again……thanks for the likes and fine compliments. Rob
  5. rwiederrich
    Wood is actually the easiest to scratch build with.....and metal and plastic comes in second. I'll have to scratch build for each yard the sheet blocks and the gin blocks. I like to use pre-engineered stuff...it makes the task that much easier. I use the metal office folder tabs as the basis for my sheet blocks. I cut out a section....fold it over on itself(this forms a natural pocket). I then use a separating disc and cut it to the desired shape. Drill a hole for the mounting pin...paint and there you go. A nicely fabricated replica of a sheet block. All about 1/8" wide. I'll need 12 of these little boogers. First...cut it...then fold it ..shape it and finished product...mounted. Rob
  6. rwiederrich
    Thanks Vlad...I appreciate that. Rob
  7. rwiederrich
    I had to work that over a couple of times to get it right. It's so small and I had to do the work after the fife was already mounted. It took some doing to hold the mast and rotate it to cut in the sharp bottom edges to permit the rail to be thin enough to allow the pins to fit and extend beyond the bottom to secure rigging. The wood is quite thin and carving it after it was secure proved to be the wiser choice...since it kept crumbling apart when it was in my hands being carved, while unmounted. You can compare the first images I took to these final images. I was reviewing the procedure I used on Great Republic to prep for the next phase of additions. I'm, going to move to the foremast and begin adding eyebolts and blocks. I'll do that before I add the top and royal shrouds. It just makes sense to keep things clear to have room. Rob
  8. rwiederrich
    Spent just a short time carving the mizzenmast fife rail and adding pins. Rob
  9. rwiederrich
    Beautiful pics Rich. Just informational. I make 3 sizes of eye bolts for the masts and yards. Tiny little things. Rob
  10. rwiederrich
    I believe the chain from this outfit is the naval center lug type chain for anchors. Perfect stuff for anchor chains. Indeed check them out. Rob
  11. rwiederrich
    Adding the fine deck furniture is an important part in the finished detail. Don't worry about being behind....building our prospective models has never been a race between us. However, it can be a race within yourself, if you have an internal time clock about such thing My scale is too small for this, but you will need to use accurate chain for your scale....check out this site to get the right chain for your model...it will make a world of difference. They're called the "Floating Drydock" look them up and check out their scale accurate printed chain. Rob
  12. rwiederrich
    I've spent years determining that 1/96 is the best scale for me. One: it is large enough to present an imposing model with great detail and can command a space. 1/96 is also small enough that detail is not lost, but not so large that attention to fine detail done poorly doesn't give itself away. 1/96 is just right for me...small enough to be able to cram in lots of detail but still avoid what a larger scale demands in wood carpentry and fine metal detail work . And since I paint all my models....I am free to use whatever material suits me to accomplish the task at hand. Not fearing exposure... that I fell from the PURISTS faith.
  13. rwiederrich
    Wow……..you are flying now Vlad. Great work indeed Rob
  14. rwiederrich
    Thanks Pat for you detailed explanation. I would have explained it further myself when Keith asked…..but I kept it simple for the answer he needed for my particular modeling method. Thanks for your help in explaining. Rob
  15. rwiederrich
    Yes....rigging is quite complicated...especially, when you have to build and rig each yard...with eye bolts...banding , jackstays and blocks. Not to mention parrells and cranes/truss's. Each mast........main, topgallant, royal, sky...needs their own banding and eye bolts to affix backstays, haulyard and downhaul blocks. Meticulous study and pre-work needs to go into each mast....Before you begin rigging shrouds. I will follow my previous method and rig each mast along with its yards prior to gluing the mast to the hull. Each will kinda look like this example from the Great Republic...prior to install. It just makes assembly way easier. Rob
  16. rwiederrich
    I love the use of that old friction grip belt driven dental handpiece. Rob
  17. rwiederrich
    Great job. I take it that second external line on each forward and aft bulkhead is the chamfer line that when using the proper thickness plywood gives you the proper chamfer for that bulkhead? I noticed the line was absent on the final cut bulkheads. Sweet job.....glad to follow along. Rob
  18. rwiederrich
    Keith…..I ran 3 shrouds to one eye bolt affixed to the single futtock band. Rob
  19. rwiederrich
    Spent some time working the mizzenmast mast. I finished up all the futtock shrouds on all the masts……so I’ll get some lower mast stuff done before I move to running the top mast shrouds. I have loads of eye bolts to place on each mast for lots of blocks and back stay connections and such. Rob
  20. rwiederrich
    See how much room was available in the lubber's hole even on this early image of the Charles W. Morgan..... Structure is similar to Glory's top. Rob
  21. rwiederrich
    I'm jumping ahead a bit here, but I think I'm going to change up my original plan of not adding furled sails and I think I will furl the sails on the yards. However, typical furling in most folks eyes means a loosely hung furl.....but I think I am going to tightly furl the sails...where they are neatly stowed atop the yard over the jackstays. Clewed and garneted down tight. Clearly a much cleaner furl. Here, again(Using this photo), is my example of her sails neatly and tightly furled on each mast when she was docked in 1877 at San Francisco. I think this new decision will greatly enhance the effective detail of each yard and will greatly replicate a truer example of a lengthy stay in port. Also, for the readers info....this form of furling was more weather tight...creating a waterproof blanket over the entire sail...preventing water accumulation resulting in mold and rot. In essence, the sail was used to protect the sail. Ship shape! Rob
  22. rwiederrich
    Right. Can't flip that second image......sorry. Rob
  23. rwiederrich
    Here are severla other closeups of her *Lubber's Hole* from several other images of her at pier and at her cold storage birth. Rob
  24. rwiederrich
    This is from that newest one from Mike. when Glory was getting her final survey. Rob
  25. rwiederrich
    This is Glory as she sat prior to her being sold to be burned for the metal in her hull. Several other images show the same open construction. The main mast is a replacement mast from her original and her main mast is a built mast. It is unclear if the design for her tops changed when she received her new masts. But it is clear from this image that her tops were not as bulky and did indeed lack the central cross timber aft of her main mast doubling. I wasn't implying that you change anything...but simply pointing out the actual top of Glory at her later years. Artistic license at this point is the guide of the day. Great work by the way. Rob

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