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rwiederrich
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Everything posted by rwiederrich
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Lastly, a coat of black paint. There you go. One more down and one more to go.
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Then I drill a small hole to accept the eye bolt and add the pulley.
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Then I cut off the corners and leave the frame of the block
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The gin block is used to lift the yard. It translates the purchase energy from a stationary point on one side of the ships gunwale up to the block, back down to the opposite side of the ship to a series of blocks to reduce the load of the yard , making its lift easier on the men. I will take picks of how I make the next one First, I use a strip of light cured plastic. I cut it to the proper width and thickness of the gin block.
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I worked at an injection mold plant in Oregon, that made parts for Dental chairs..(Quality plastics for Adec Dental). The tool/mold makers would sit in their clean rooms and *Carve* or inscribe their tools.....come down to the floor and try inject them for accuracy. I operated several injection machines. It was fascinating work. We even made model kits. I collected lots of *throw* away parts and such. It was fun as much as it was quite interesting. Rob
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I still need to make the top 3 gin blocks and the Jacobs ladder too....but she is nearing completion. Rob
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I took a little liberty when I built the Ferreira. Not knowing her true colors....but knowing who she was painted to mimic. Rob
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All that is left on the mainmast is the royal and sky sail lifts. I’ve been bustin it out. And I’m pooped. Probably finish those up tomorrow. Rob
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Working more on the royal sheets and still rigging them bunt lines. Rob
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Working the Jin blocks. These boogers take time. They’re pretty small too. Rob
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Lots of stuff going on. Added the topgallant sheets. Rob Rob
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Well I need to have a talk with their supervisor...because they aren't working hard enough...7 hours of sleep and 8 hours of work....means those jokers are spending way too much time in the lunchroom. 15 hours a day...these imagineers...should have been done with Glory a month ago. I'm picken up what you're laying down. I'm hoping to get lots done tonight. We'll see. Thanks...as usual...you are so kind. Rob
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Added all the chain lifts. Need to finish off the bunt lines and make the downhaul jin blocks. Rob
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Wonderful information. What can be deceptive is her actual deck length verses her deck length *between perpendiculars* Add another 6ft to her fantail for her actual deck length. I'll use your computations and verify what my final measurements are on my Glory. I suspect they are pretty close, since external validation based upon those landmarks was also used to qualify the masts locations as well. Good job Rich. From these data points....does it effect your original locations much? Rob
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Well....I appreciate that....but I reiterate..........I'm nothing but a *Hack* lazy modeler, always looking to find the quick, easy way to do things. Possibly, it is my eye to step skip, that lends itself to my ability to pull a rabbit outa my hat now and again. Ingenuity finds its origins in desire, and desire coupled with its sister(Smoke an mirrors).....produces the end result. And sometimes it's worth looking at. It was once said of me, *A little of me goes a long way*. That's either a curse or a blessing...depending on your perspective. Thanks for your vote of confidence. I respect the honor. Rob
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The Trig factor was my first personal suggestion to myself...but then as I thought through it more the unknown variables, turned it more into guess work then anything else and simple geometry would only permit you to visualize a possible answer....NOT verify any conclusions. I'm a visualizer....so I mocked up a simple model to scale with the image of Glory's fitting out image. By first noting the positions of the mast from a similar angle as in the photograph......then shifting my view to a clearer PROFILE....I was able to identify the optical shift.....moving the vertical masts back along their central axis. This phenomena is easily noted by looking at something, then opening a single eye and shifting back and forth from left eye to right.......You can easily see the shift of the object back and forth. The difference from pupil to pupil. Together they form a stereographic image...separately they show the single image offset. This is how optical range finding was used. Anyway........I could clearly see the shift and could estimate the degrees and thus the distance shift. Ultimately taking me back to that tricky word....Guess. Educated though it be. Rob
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It is true there is some horizontal shift when the true profile is considered. the true issue is *what* is the actual angle of the photographic capture? 3 degrees? If the angle could be surmised, then a more accurate offset or shift can be calculated. Trace out the true hull length...then take an educated guess and draw a 90 Degree line from the aft hull perpendicular to the midline.....where you think the image was taken from...say directly in front of the last mizzen shroud or channel.. Then draw lines from that point to the main mast and the fore mast. This is a visual map....so you can visualize the shift when you move along the distance of the hull. From rudimentary calculations....it appears(from what you are saying), there is a 1~2 degree shift. Moving the mast back. I'm sure that, that true angle can be calculated using some nifty geometry math. Regardless what is calculated, the angulation or calculated distance is not much at all. 6 to 10 inches is all.........I would guess. Personally...I NEVER rely upon just one image to determine the location of structures. Cross referencing between all known images and using known distances....ie......figurehead length or bowsprit banding distance....one can quite accurately reverse engineer practically every distance on her. Rob
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