rwiederrich

12 hours ago, ClipperFan said:

Rob, one consistent feature I've seen with ship's figureheads is that the subject's head is tilted in such a way that their face is looking straight out. Invariably when a figure is mounted at a sharp angle, this put their head at a tilted back position too. 

Oh...that is normal.  Looking, reaching...always forward and upward.

Sometimes when you are on your third try at 7/8", when the human figure is the hardest to replicate....you just settle with what you end up with.

However, hindsight, we wish we had paid greater attention...but at the time, exhaustion and frustration wins out.

Rob(Just a simple man) 

Nils....it's so very nice to see you at the bench again.  Great start.  I'm reminded of your beautiful metal German liner.  This schooner is a slight variance.

Rob 

3 hours ago, ClipperFan said:

Rob, not having either of these beautiful figurehead images, how on earth did you come so close to them? I'm even more impressed with your capabilities now!

Actually, I had another image that is not on my phone.  It was a side shot of the clansman from mystics original mounted collection.   I have it somewhere ……just didn’t place his left arm correctly and his head isn’t aiming back far enough.  
 

Rob

Finished up the chain guys.  
 

The rope guys are part of the stays, so they’ll get added when I reach that point. 
 

Next is the spreader just aft of the cap.  I won’t rig the guy’s so as not to make things tough for the jib stays.  
 

Rob

8 minutes ago, ClipperFan said:

Rob, actually besides the lower tilt of his head and lower position of your figurehead's left arm, the rest of him is very accurate, including authentic paint job. I read that the McKay's original figurehead was lost at sea. This replica was carved by the Ship's Carpenter as a replacement at sea. Knowing how complex a project it is to create a 7' likeness, it's a fair bet that the original artwork, especially if sculpted by Mason was far more refined.  

Yes..its history is varied.  At one point the figurehead spent time in a farmers field before finding its way to Seaport.

I didn't have either one of these images at the time when I carved him.

Rob

6 hours ago, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

You are still humble and hard on yourself that you shouldnt. It is beyond my comprehension how for gods sake you could elaborate even face details like eyes nose lips proportionally but there is also glipm of gesture. im sure you worked under magnifying glass but. i have cutty sark figure of revell in 1:96 and it is pure crap comparing to this . i can tell you. everybodys praise is well deserved. 

I am so fortunate to possess a set of extremely micro tipped dental burs..they are probably 10,000 of an inch....made for extreme detail and micro work.

I also made a 7/8" Donald McKay figurehead for my Donald McKay clipper diorama(you see her now and again up on the shelf of my shop).  I have a poor image of him.  He's fully painted.            

Lots of errors...but still a likeness

Spent some time working the head gear and martingale. 
 

Rob

3 hours ago, BANYAN said:

Very nice work on the bow rigging Rob; looks great!  How did you make the iron plates on the hull for the bowsprit guys/shrouds.  I have been contemplating various options for a while including a simple strap cur to length and a hole put in one end.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Pat,  I used copper plate cut to scale and then drill a hole for the pad eye…….then painted and weathered.  
 

Rob

5 hours ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

Very beautiful work. When sculpting a figure for the Vic (in software) I almost lost the will to live, trying to get the proportions right and gave up in the end. You've done an amazing job here.

Carving figures has never been my strong suit, but I worked this till I felt it was as good as I could get.  She’s still wrought with errors.  Thanks for the fine compliment. 
 

Rob

4 hours ago, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

Guilty pleasures Rob. Fabulous photos. You fly now... Keep them coming. Impressive stuff atvthat scale. I call this  jewellery. After She was dressed properly She IS getting earrings necklacess and suff to go dancing soon...:) 

Gonna start the bowsprit stays and all the padeyes that secure them to the catheads and sprit.  My version of Glory will be incorporating a bowsprit boom....an addition during her rigging upgrade that your version does not have.

The martingale will also be worked up...that will include the chain stays and their hardware.

Rob

Good metal work.....

Rob

Just a reminder...the figurehead is only 7/8" long.  Here is a comparison to the prototype.   

Finished up the chain head gear.  Now onto the martingale and stays.  
 

Rob

A bit more work on the starboard side…..now to the port. 
 

Rob

2 hours ago, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

thanks much Rob going to check it. V. 

Do. 
 

I’ve begun the head gear. 
 

Rob

20 minutes ago, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

hanks Rob. Actually There IS one thing i Wish to ask from rigging working perspectives im not quite sure about. What  standing rigging of upper yards IS fór?

The lifts are standing rigging...accept on the main yard lifts.  When the yards are raised via their haulyards...the lifts are slung and go slack.

Look at the black line on my mizzen mast and you'll see the difference.

Rob

1 hour ago, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

She was mighty gal, wasnt IT. Probably best thing i could do was to get to study rigging properly AS i am now to understand every bit that there IS. I was foolishly thinking watching plán of flying fish would do not even knowing of Howse rig. Gosh how baad . Its opening a new perspectives fór calculating and planming ahead what i Wish glory to look like and choices there are plenty. Either how much of roping mess i want or i am able to tackle however, Rob must laugh as in my scale there Will be plenty of space whether fór her  to be Without sails -  rigging IS set quite little differently, or All furled, or partially set meaning with Few sails unrolled. Amazing cinsiderations to plan think and to make. I Now even understand why damn main course yard IS Narrowed - fór loading 😉 you see ?  Few more years and i Will reach some rank of newcomer sailor so plenty to learn every day

Yes Vlad...I've been studying clipper rigging for over 45 years...don't beat yourself up....it is a growing learning thing.....and once you see how standard rigging works...you will feel more comfortable with it.

Rob

2 hours ago, ClipperFan said:

Rob, from all the photographic evidence we have, none show any belaying pins inserted into any of Glory's rails. To the contrary, all images available so far, including this latest broadside prove that all rails even on her large rear house were solely used as rails and nothing else. Your idea of creating internal shroud mounted belaying pins must be the logical workable alternative.

I concur.  Shroud pin rails are very typical in such limited situations.  I'll go that route...thanks for the validation.

Rob

5 minutes ago, ClipperFan said:

Rob, In this latest beautiful broadside of Glory I was surprised to discover almost all her yards have tightly furled sails like yours. I am struck by the professionalism of these sailors in their ability to so tightly compress these massive fabrics. When you consider rolling up these thick canvas sails, it's an amazing accomplishment. I remember having to compress older real canvas tents when we struck camp in Boy Scouts of the 60s. Since I was participating in US Armed Services Units, our camping gear was surplus World War II military style tough canvas duct. Believe me, it is an art to get gear like that to be as tightly furled as those sails used to be. 

And most ships carried several thicknesses of sail.  Those set for heavy weather and those for lighter fare.  What an ordeal to have to change out sail for the weather you are anticipating.  And of course Stunsails were of the lightest cotton duct.

Rob

One thing I'm internalizing over is the lack of proper belaying points for the mizzen sail running rigging.   No image I have shows clearly the belay points for the sheets and bunt lines and since the mizzen lacks a proper fife rail(short of the spider band)....I can only imagine that the rail was used as a pin rail...though no photographic evidence shows this.  I was thinking of using a practice used on many vessels with similar issues....by using shroud suspended pin rails.  Pin rails were bent to the inside of the lanyards at the deadeye point.....providing a belay point for the lines coming down from the fairleads that are fixed up on the inside shroud points.

I do not want to drill holes in the fragile rail if at all possible.

Rob(thinking out loud)

This image is what I'm trying to replicate on Glory...though I wanted tighter furling...like in her San Fran dock image.

This furled arrangement is bent to the yard, unlike the other arrangement called quartered.  where the sails clue is brought to the center of the yard.

Rob

Michael...what does the actual radiator look like...so your replication can be accurate.....I have no reference to make any judgements.  All of your attempts look fine if indeed that is what the prototype looks like.

Being a modelers perfectionist....I know you have accuracy pointing the way...but what does that actually look like?

Rob(Magnificent work as usual)

4 hours ago, Glen McGuire said:

Keith - gluing is also how I attach ratlines to my shrouds for SIBs.  No way for me to tie a knot that small and I had not thought of threading through the shrouds like you describe (interesting idea).  Aleen's fabric glue has worked well for me.  It's clear and has good strength and a bit of flexibility after drying, which is crucial for me since my shrouds and ratlines get folded over and twisted numerous times before reaching their final resting spot.    

 

Rob - that was an eye-opener to see that you glue ratlines at the larger scale (larger meaning compared to SIBs).  I thought that everyone always tied them.  Assuming that's what you did on your Glory of the Seas, they look really good.  Thanks for giving away one of your trade secrets!

Far too many things will distract from them when they are layered over the shrouds.  
 

If it works…..do it.  Nothing is set in stone. 
 

Rob

3 hours ago, Keith Black said:

 Rob, I understand. I think you or someone who glues ratline to shroud line successfully needs to look over my shoulder and see why I'm not able to manage this seemingly simple process. I know this, if I can't get it done on a test board, in an optimal working position, I'm not going to trust using the method on the mizzen where my angle of attack makes my hands shake more so than when working at the test board.

 

 I've got nothing against the method, for you and those who can use it without issue, I applaud you. 

 

 

Use the method that best works for you…..that’s all you can do.  
 

Rob

1 hour ago, MrBlueJacket said:

I have always felt that for square masted ship models, the time is 1/2 on the woodwork and 1/2 on the rigging. What do you think?

Nic....I think you are being a bit conservative in your estimation, though I do agree.....  I concede that the rigging takes as long or(In my case) Waaay longer.  It is fully dependent on the extent of your rigging detail.   If one were to limit their detail to lifts and braces and foot ropes...indeed.  But when one calculates the time needed to make gin blocks, rig properly the downhauls/ their purchases,  bunt and sheets....not to mention sails and all their intricacies......you could be there twice as long.

But, yes...rigging can take at least as long as the hull and all its details.

Rob