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rwiederrich
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Everything posted by rwiederrich
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Plus the varnish may similarly react with the metal finish and aid its retention to the paper backing. In essence *gluing* it to the backing. Rob
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Lubbering Kevin....Good day my friend. Wonderful 3D work indeed. Hey...what *Ink* process are you using to highlight your woodwork? I know when I built my last Revell Kit of CS,(12 years ago), I used black india ink diluted in isopropyl alcohol. Sprayed on it dried very quickly(the alcohol evaporates) and leaves a weathered look...where the ink capilates (Capillary action) into all the cracks. Looks pretty cool.... Nice weathering technique. Just wondering what you use ink for? Wonderful job. Rob
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All due respect, Rich...I'm not quite sure what you are talking about. In every image the flywheels are mounted just outside of the fife rail proper...on both port and starboard sides and the flywheel diameter is nearly flush with the fife rail head. This really bad image shows this. Rob
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In This particular optical illusion, I had no hand in. After further review, I've decided to complete the mizzen, than move directly to finishing up the head gear on the bowsprit. Because this rigging is standing and can be considered part of the hull...and I want to finish this up....so their will be no interference with the masts once they are installed. Rob
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Great update and pics Vlad. Your corrections and alterations make the difference for sure. Super job...she is definitely polishing up. Rob
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Finished up the top gallant yard. Pictured are the upper and lower topsails and newly finished top gallant. Next is the royal and……bam….I’ll begin on the shrouds. Rob
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Keith…….you can do it. I simply paint the shiny glued stropping flat black. I will be adding the mizzenmast shrouds soon myself on my Glory. Post some images when you can. Rob
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Started the top gallant yard and preparing to add the furled sail. Rob
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I've long gone away from using my unaided eyes. I need my magnifying head band to do nearly all the work on my Glory. I'm just so thankful I still have steady hands. Keep the post coming..... Rob
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Man Vlad...you're speeding along.....getting those carpenters to work over time. Great job...very nice. The only deck work I still have to do myself is add the lower rail frame to the fore mast fife rail and mount the port and starboard davits. They are easily bumped...so I'm waiting for now. Great job man..... Rob
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Thanks Rich. Personally, I have never replicated a tightly furled sail before, but after great experimentation and comparison.....realistic weathered furled sails are extremely problematic...because the sail control blocks and furling beckets need to be correctly replicated while still presenting a good scale sail. I wanted to go in a direction that was unexpected...considering the subject vessel. Nothing is perfect...especially in the real world and replicating this imperfection is my aim...I just don't want a bulky cloth sail, but sails that can lend to the realism and not be a distraction but a compliment. I've probably put more time and attention into this part of the build as I have into any other single aspect and I pray when completed, commutatively they will make this model *POP*. Glory of the Seas deserves my full creative resources. Again...thanks for your fine compliments. Rob
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MAKING EYE'S AND HOOKS
rwiederrich replied to Peter6172's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Actually...this is quite true. These are so easy to make too. I just cut a piece of wire about an inch long...crease it back onto itself, forming a *U*. Then grip the two ends with a plier....then using a *Hook* of the desired size(Diameter of the eye) in a pin vice, I hook the looped wire and then turn the wire, winding it, onto itself. when the turns are tight, prior to breaking, I cut the shank to the desired length. Then slide the pad eye off the *Hook*. Easy- Peasy.... Rob -
It takes an overall view to really see the effect. We tend to see sails furled loosely....with puffs of sail hanging symmetrical along the yard....but rarely do we see sails tightly bundled across the top of the yard. An entire sail, pulled up and bunched and rolled and attempted to be smooth over a jackstay laden yard. Creating ridges and folds to increase the effect can be daunting. Finished off with some slight weathering and stain/chafing details. It looks fuller once the beckets were installed and I added the sheet support rollers/eyes under the yard(Not shown in pics). Rob
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Once all the yards are finished for this mast…..I will then rig the shrouds. Mixin it up from my GR method…….keeping the Monotony at bay. Rob
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Spent some time finishing up the upper topsail. When I mount the yards I will run the sheets and downhauls. Still need to add the bunt blocks. Rob
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MAKING EYE'S AND HOOKS
rwiederrich replied to Peter6172's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I make 3 sizes for my 1/96 models. Wrap wire around a specially made hook(3 sizes) in a pin vice and twist it to form the eye. Rob
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Indeed. The S shaped rungs acted as wind generating fans to aid in cooling the pump members from ever heating during continual use. The metal bushings used as bearings(Within the iron pillow blocks) for the iron crank shaft to turn through, were most likely made from *Oil-lite*...an oil impregnated soft bronze metal widely used when there was going to be metal to metal contact. Rob
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Glory's futtock shrouds were either metal cable or iron bar. I suspect they were iron bar...because the bars acted as support structure for the tops. Because...remember..... the top cross members do not interfere with the lubbers hole....making the top less rigid from an engineering/structural stand point. But bracing the outer section of the top with 3 strong iron futtock shrouds that bolted to the futtock iron mast band makes all things quite rigid. Rob
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In essence this is true. Standing rigging was weathered by means of a blackening(most likely dark, dark brown). A tar based preservative was applied to protect the line from rot. Though lanyards are sometimes considered running rigging (falsely),because they are basically a pulley...they are brought taught...securing the shroud, then secured tightly and for their protection, coated in a dark tar/varnish like substance to protect the line from the damaging results of salt/sea/sun weathering. In essence the lanyard is part of the standing rigging. Rob
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Well we try to humble ourselves every day. No one likes to *remake* what they have been toiling over and thinks is a *Masterpiece*, to learn it is anything but and needs replacing. The brutal task of being true to the prototype, forces us to correct our own mistakes and gently point out those of others. We scratch builders can be a finicky bunch. Rob
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Thanks Rich...I knew you'd come through with some impressive imagery. My Glory capstans are similar to J. Gardner's design. Rob
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Beautiful wood. It will look nice. Rob
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You betcha. there are some small details that have been overlooked....but I be Rich can find a newspaper clipping that identifies the Patented capstan design McKay used...I know I've read it somewhere. I might hold off till I know for sure if you have that freedom after consulting with Rich. Personally, I added period capstans that may or may not be arguably as accurate as was actually used on Glory....but as you say...there is still some freedom of expression there. Some small details that are undocumented can be artistically created at the modelers convenience. I wait to see what you come up with. Rob
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The worst thing is to notice an inaccuracy....and then to muster up the nerve to tell you...just after you spent all that time and skill. but it is far more important that you get it right...then be inconvenienced. I can't speak for Rich...but I struggle when I see an inaccuracy.....do I just let it pass....not wishing to appear prudish...and let your fine model retain its error.....or do I bravely point it out so you can enjoy the most accurate model you can produce. its clear you want the latter. Oh....one thing...are you going to treat your mast and yards with a coat of varnish or simply leave them raw.....? Rob
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