rwiederrich

Actually...this is quite true. These are so easy to make too. I just cut a piece of wire about an inch long...crease it back onto itself, forming a *U*. Then grip the two ends with a plier....then using a *Hook* of the desired size(Diameter of the eye) in a pin vice, I hook the looped wire and then turn the wire, winding it, onto itself. when the turns are tight, prior to breaking, I cut the shank to the desired length. Then slide the pad eye off the *Hook*. Easy- Peasy.... Rob

It takes an overall view to really see the effect. We tend to see sails furled loosely....with puffs of sail hanging symmetrical along the yard....but rarely do we see sails tightly bundled across the top of the yard. An entire sail, pulled up and bunched and rolled and attempted to be smooth over a jackstay laden yard. Creating ridges and folds to increase the effect can be daunting. Finished off with some slight weathering and stain/chafing details. It looks fuller once the beckets were installed and I added the sheet support rollers/eyes under the yard(Not shown in pics). Rob

Once all the yards are finished for this mast…..I will then rig the shrouds. Mixin it up from my GR method…….keeping the Monotony at bay. Rob

Spent some time finishing up the upper topsail. When I mount the yards I will run the sheets and downhauls. Still need to add the bunt blocks. Rob

I make 3 sizes for my 1/96 models. Wrap wire around a specially made hook(3 sizes) in a pin vice and twist it to form the eye. Rob

Indeed. The S shaped rungs acted as wind generating fans to aid in cooling the pump members from ever heating during continual use. The metal bushings used as bearings(Within the iron pillow blocks) for the iron crank shaft to turn through, were most likely made from *Oil-lite*...an oil impregnated soft bronze metal widely used when there was going to be metal to metal contact. Rob

Glory's futtock shrouds were either metal cable or iron bar. I suspect they were iron bar...because the bars acted as support structure for the tops. Because...remember..... the top cross members do not interfere with the lubbers hole....making the top less rigid from an engineering/structural stand point. But bracing the outer section of the top with 3 strong iron futtock shrouds that bolted to the futtock iron mast band makes all things quite rigid. Rob

In essence this is true. Standing rigging was weathered by means of a blackening(most likely dark, dark brown). A tar based preservative was applied to protect the line from rot. Though lanyards are sometimes considered running rigging (falsely),because they are basically a pulley...they are brought taught...securing the shroud, then secured tightly and for their protection, coated in a dark tar/varnish like substance to protect the line from the damaging results of salt/sea/sun weathering. In essence the lanyard is part of the standing rigging. Rob

Well we try to humble ourselves every day. No one likes to *remake* what they have been toiling over and thinks is a *Masterpiece*, to learn it is anything but and needs replacing. The brutal task of being true to the prototype, forces us to correct our own mistakes and gently point out those of others. We scratch builders can be a finicky bunch. Rob

Thanks Rich...I knew you'd come through with some impressive imagery. My Glory capstans are similar to J. Gardner's design. Rob

Beautiful wood. It will look nice. Rob

You betcha. there are some small details that have been overlooked....but I be Rich can find a newspaper clipping that identifies the Patented capstan design McKay used...I know I've read it somewhere. I might hold off till I know for sure if you have that freedom after consulting with Rich. Personally, I added period capstans that may or may not be arguably as accurate as was actually used on Glory....but as you say...there is still some freedom of expression there. Some small details that are undocumented can be artistically created at the modelers convenience. I wait to see what you come up with. Rob

The worst thing is to notice an inaccuracy....and then to muster up the nerve to tell you...just after you spent all that time and skill. but it is far more important that you get it right...then be inconvenienced. I can't speak for Rich...but I struggle when I see an inaccuracy.....do I just let it pass....not wishing to appear prudish...and let your fine model retain its error.....or do I bravely point it out so you can enjoy the most accurate model you can produce. its clear you want the latter. Oh....one thing...are you going to treat your mast and yards with a coat of varnish or simply leave them raw.....? Rob

Oh...we know you Vlad...you pump out good work....it is just astonishing that you do it so well....AND....quickly. but since you admitted you don't sleep much....I can see now where you get your time to be so fruitful. Rob

Kevin....if you continue along in the log you will see the corrected drawings we commutatively developed...with Michael Mjelde's approval. His drawing are correct for the most part...but are grossly inaccurate in her cutwater and stern, not to mention on a few of her deck trimmings and furniture. Remember he did these drawings many decades ago with no peer review...no second set of eyes. We have the benefit of several enthusiastic researchers who are tenacious about details. Plus we have the great wealth of Mikes unpublished photographic library. Please continue along and you will devise as we did the most accurate replication of Glory to this day. Plus you have the extra added benefit of having Glory of the Seas built , replicating both her early and later years...representing her many added modifications. A fully printed version would be an amazing thing to behold as well as 3D printing can smoothly and seamlessly recreate finer details if done well. Good luck in your adventure.....and do your research well. It can be as rewarding as the build itself. I believe Vladmir has the original CAD drawings he used to have bulkheads laser cut from. He would be the true source to look to for this kind of information. I would follow your build log in a hurry. Rob

Thanks Kevin……they sure are eye catching. This plan is in Michael Mjelde’s second book about Glory of the Seas. Rob

Man this boys passin me up like there’s no Sundays. These days I barely get in an hour here and there in the boat shop. Vlad is doing great indeed. Rob

When originally rigged these ships did not sport the stationary lower topsail(Typical of the Howes design), but were later converted. The Great Republic was built before all of of these other examples and actually, McKay originally built her with Forbes Double topsails....the Originator of the double topsail.. Howes didn't invent the double topsail...he merely modified it and made it more practical. McKay recognized the benefits of the rig and first used it on GR. Prior to that most clippers used single topsails that were large single sails....the topgallent was just as large and hence was the Royal. I gathered that the Champion as originally designed, was of the sail plan depicted in the photograph, but was later re-rigged with Howes double topsails Since Lightning and Champion were build a year later then GR....I wondered why they were not *Originally* built with Howes rigged double topsails. It's just curious to me. In short(Or long, dependent how interested you are), Champion in this photograph, was built over a year after GR and she only carried a main, a single topsail, and a Royal. she didn't even carry a topgallant, which was typical of this period clipper. Great Republic, a year earlier(as originally designed), carried on her main mast.....a Mainsail...upper and lower topsails...a single topgallant....and a Royal. When rebuilt a year later(as Howes rigged) she sported her mainsail...double topsails....topgallant....Royal and skysail. Champion in this image only carried 3 sails per mast....strange...😏. Must been taken earlier then when she posted her record 24 hour log of 20 knots per hour. Rob

One other note concerning this image of Champion of the Seas. She was built in 1854 an extreme clipper larger then Glory at 2447 tons. But.... Why on earth would she be sporting only mains, topsails and royals? Was this sail configuration part of McKay's scheme to increase her speed.(she was fast...20 knots) ..what methodology was he following....or theorizing? Rob

I gathered that after I posted, but without further analysis from you, I made the correction. Sorry , if I was unclear. great pic by the way. Rob

Only problem with this image is it’s not representative of Glory. The forward Davit on Glory is just aft of the last main mast backstay…….and the aft davit is forward of the leading Taft rail stanchion and iron rail head. Many images show or suggest this. Rob

Great job Vlad...but before you glue that pump down, correct the flywheel's location .... They are not on the inside of the rail, but the outside. How do you suspect a human is suppose to hold the handle on the pump and rotate it with it on the inside of the fife rail? People always seam to get this wrong. Rob

Did some corrections and additions. Still need to finish up the highlights and weathering. Rob

I have to make some mods/corrections to solidify accuracy in the sails....but We're getting there. Good eye....yes indeedy...I'm making us of the preformed blocks that are actually pretty much in scale for this particular build. They will easily blend in to the overall build. I make sure I have several color changes between blocks...since they were wood and they weathered differently due to their location and use on the vessel. Some darker(Oiled, less UV's) and some bleached(Peeling varnish, checked). It's all about creating a *Natural Randomness*....... Nothing is perfect...nothing. Thanks for the fine comments. Rob

Thanks Pat... It can be a struggle to create convincing enough tightly furled sails. You have to capture the uneven rolled/tufted effect without the sail appearing overly exaggerated or comical. I added some slight detailing to the surface of the sail to break up any uniformity and lend greater detail as to what might be expected in tightly rolled canvas that is furled over jackstays and banding. Still needing to add becket banding/straps and run the chain sheets for the topsail. I might even add some whiter highlights to emphasize reflections. Its knowing when to stop and to know when less is more. Thanks for the fine comments. Rob