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leclaire got a reaction from mtaylor in Proxon mini vice
No kidding. I don't need another vice but I also just have to have it. Unfortunately the yellow color is bright enough to stand out so the "boss" is sure to notice something is amiss.
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leclaire got a reaction from bruce d in Proxon mini vice
No kidding. I don't need another vice but I also just have to have it. Unfortunately the yellow color is bright enough to stand out so the "boss" is sure to notice something is amiss.
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leclaire got a reaction from Diver in Proxon mini vice
No kidding. I don't need another vice but I also just have to have it. Unfortunately the yellow color is bright enough to stand out so the "boss" is sure to notice something is amiss.
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leclaire got a reaction from Canute in Proxon mini vice
No kidding. I don't need another vice but I also just have to have it. Unfortunately the yellow color is bright enough to stand out so the "boss" is sure to notice something is amiss.
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leclaire got a reaction from Mark P in Proxon mini vice
No kidding. I don't need another vice but I also just have to have it. Unfortunately the yellow color is bright enough to stand out so the "boss" is sure to notice something is amiss.
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leclaire reacted to PietFriet in Proxon mini vice
When I woke up this morning I did not feel the need to buy a vice. After reading this post I just ordered the Stanley 360.
Lesson learned; stay away from this section of the forum 😀.
Peter
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leclaire reacted to clogger in Proxon mini vice
I cannot recommend highly enough this vice
https://www.bunnings.com.au/stanley-multi-angle-hobby-vice_p5860190?gclid=CjwKCAiAz4b_BRBbEiwA5XlVVtknHMycDWIEAYWkdZecVyfQxlkbbJsjcMu9fU3DjRzeMCQEKuCCqxoC7lcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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leclaire got a reaction from Keithbrad80 in Proxon mini vice
I bought one when I started my first build and was very disappointed with it. Unless you are attaching it to a very smooth surface, such as glass, it does not stay in place well at all. Even if you use a glass surface it can come undone at most inappropriate times, such as what you are working on ending up on the floor. Better to get a small vice that you can bolt or clamp to your work top.
Bob
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leclaire got a reaction from Diver in Proxon mini vice
I bought one when I started my first build and was very disappointed with it. Unless you are attaching it to a very smooth surface, such as glass, it does not stay in place well at all. Even if you use a glass surface it can come undone at most inappropriate times, such as what you are working on ending up on the floor. Better to get a small vice that you can bolt or clamp to your work top.
Bob
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leclaire got a reaction from mtaylor in Proxon mini vice
I bought one when I started my first build and was very disappointed with it. Unless you are attaching it to a very smooth surface, such as glass, it does not stay in place well at all. Even if you use a glass surface it can come undone at most inappropriate times, such as what you are working on ending up on the floor. Better to get a small vice that you can bolt or clamp to your work top.
Bob
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leclaire got a reaction from davyboy in Proxon mini vice
I bought one when I started my first build and was very disappointed with it. Unless you are attaching it to a very smooth surface, such as glass, it does not stay in place well at all. Even if you use a glass surface it can come undone at most inappropriate times, such as what you are working on ending up on the floor. Better to get a small vice that you can bolt or clamp to your work top.
Bob
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leclaire got a reaction from Rik Thistle in Proxon mini vice
I bought one when I started my first build and was very disappointed with it. Unless you are attaching it to a very smooth surface, such as glass, it does not stay in place well at all. Even if you use a glass surface it can come undone at most inappropriate times, such as what you are working on ending up on the floor. Better to get a small vice that you can bolt or clamp to your work top.
Bob
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leclaire got a reaction from bruce d in Proxon mini vice
I bought one when I started my first build and was very disappointed with it. Unless you are attaching it to a very smooth surface, such as glass, it does not stay in place well at all. Even if you use a glass surface it can come undone at most inappropriate times, such as what you are working on ending up on the floor. Better to get a small vice that you can bolt or clamp to your work top.
Bob
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leclaire got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Proxon mini vice
I bought one when I started my first build and was very disappointed with it. Unless you are attaching it to a very smooth surface, such as glass, it does not stay in place well at all. Even if you use a glass surface it can come undone at most inappropriate times, such as what you are working on ending up on the floor. Better to get a small vice that you can bolt or clamp to your work top.
Bob
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leclaire reacted to wefalck in USS Cairo 1862 by MPB521 – FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - American Civil War Ironclad - First Scratch Build
Red ochre, iron-oxyhydroxide (FeOOH ... I am a geochemist ) is rather stable in most environments. Its the same mineral the colours red sandstones and also a component of most iron-ores. So it is not terribly surprising that it may outlast wood. Depending on the actual composition of the mineral and heating processes during the pigment production, it's colour can vary from a pale orange to deep red to a reddish violett. Assuming that no a very high-quality pigment was used in 'barn-paints' a brownish red is probably the most likely colour.
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leclaire reacted to mbp521 in USS Cairo 1862 by MPB521 – FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - American Civil War Ironclad - First Scratch Build
Roger, Wefalck,
Thank you both for the information. It’s very much appreciated. I had no idea that farmers used the same red on their barns. That would explain why you can still see remnants of red paint on some of the old dilapidated barns, as well as some still standing. The paints actually last longer than the wood.
I am seriously considering going with a reddish-brown hull, it seems the general consensus points that direction anyway. I have a few inquiries out to others, a couple of which are outside of this forum, with the same question, and so far the answer has been the same, “not a lot of info on it” and “go with your preference”. I think I’ll play around with some colors and see what comes out. I still have some time.
-Brian
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leclaire reacted to Cathead in USS Cairo 1862 by MPB521 – FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - American Civil War Ironclad - First Scratch Build
Brian,
The park may be closed to visitors but staff may still be working or at least available. The core NPS jobs are permanent hires, it's not like everyone's been let go, and they can't just shut the gates and ignore everything. So there's a decent chance someone is still monitoring contact info and could get back to you. They give basic contact info (phone # and an email form) at the link below, could try that and see if anyone responds. If you can make contact, the rest might work as the right staff member might be able to pass you along to the right historian or whoever.
https://www.nps.gov/vick/contacts.htm
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leclaire reacted to gregs1234 in Jefferson Davis by mrw4297 - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters
Hello, I am so glad to see this build log. I had an older version of this model and put up a build log before the crash. This was my very first ship model. It was probably a little too difficult for me, but with the help of the forum members, I built a pretty nice model. I finished the hull and deck furniture, stained everything and cut away the model from the original keel piece. I built the two masts before some family issues arose and I had to stop. I've started up again and have the gaffs, boom and main yard built. I expect to finish it this time. I'll be watching this log and hope you ask for help if you need it. And what I learned is that if I wasn't sure that a piece looked good...I threw it away and built another one. (I am pretty sure I built some pieces 4 times.) Good luck with your build.
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leclaire reacted to Jaager in Gift Ideas
The situation is complicated. As for tools, although enthusiasm often leads to wasted money as far as tools, even your father probably does not realize which tools
he needs until he needs that specific job done.
It may be wiser to get:
A gift certificate to a special tool vendor:
Lee Valey
Japan Woodworker
Lie-NielsenToolworks
or
A subject specific book:
The 100-Gun Ship Victory (Anatomy of the Ship) by John McKay
The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships Hardcover by C. Nepean Longridge
But for something unexpected but better than what he is likely to know about:
Japan Woodworker #156382 1/8" double bevel Blue Steel knife
It also needs a piece of scrap leather and a fine honing compound like Flexcut Gold
Compared to Xacto type #11 blades - both will do the job, but the knife it like having Lamborghini instead of a Ford
or from StewMac
Item Price Qty Total
Japanese Super Fine-Cut Saw
Item # 3617
$39.48 1 $39.48
Japanese Curved-edge Mini Saw
Item # 3612
$28.30 1 $28.30
StewMac Ultimate Scraper, Mini
Item # 0632
$28.07 1 $28.07
The curved-edge saw works a trick in crosscutting
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leclaire reacted to xodar461 in Reducing mast circumference without a lathe
As with the post above, I use a standard hand held drill. it is easy to do for mast - just stick one end in the drill and sand to desired thickness. I like to leave the dowel long to account for the part that is in the drill chuck as the chuck will leave indentations on the wood. This can be sawed off later. I do yards with a drill as well but with some modification as both ends need to be tapered, unlike the mast. The yard is cut longer than needed (again to account for the part of the yard in the chuck. Once one side is sanded then the other side will need to be cut to the correct length. Then I wrap some painters tape around the side that has been tapered (so the tape rather than the wood with get the indentations from the chuck) and you are ready to sand the other side. This method has worked well for me over the years. Some yards recently done can be see on my log of the revenge by xodar461
Jeff
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leclaire reacted to mbp521 in USS Cairo 1862 by MPB521 – FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - American Civil War Ironclad - First Scratch Build
So after a little more research, I determined that you were right Keith, The muzzle swell on the 30lb parrot rifle was a little bit much.
I found some pictures I had taken a few years ago when I visited Vicksburg NMP. Now given the assumption that these are the original guns that were brought up with the rest of the USS Cairo then the 30 pounder has a slight swell at the muzzle, a little less than what is shown on the HSR.
Compared to the HSR drawings, the real guns have less muzzle swell.
So with that all being said I decided to turn it down a bit. It might not be perfect, but I do think it looks closer to the actual gun than the drawing.
Thankfully there was only one 30 pounder on board. Now to build the carriages and figure out how to duplicate the other guns.
-Brian
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leclaire reacted to Cathead in USS Cairo 1862 by MPB521 – FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - American Civil War Ironclad - First Scratch Build
And this...
is an ex-Parrott.
Sorry.
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leclaire reacted to druxey in Measurement tools?
Do you have decimal reading calipers? That would be the most direct way.
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leclaire got a reaction from Paul Jarman in What do I want for Christmas
My first and most important wish is for this pandemic to go away. My second wish is if number 1 comes true that we all learn something from it and go forward with a better world.
Now if both of the above come true, my last wish is for a Byrnes sander. Got to add some greed in here somewhere.
Bob
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leclaire got a reaction from mtaylor in What do I want for Christmas
My first and most important wish is for this pandemic to go away. My second wish is if number 1 comes true that we all learn something from it and go forward with a better world.
Now if both of the above come true, my last wish is for a Byrnes sander. Got to add some greed in here somewhere.
Bob