John Allen

Keith,
 
Masterpiece, museum quality me thinks.

Of all the luggers we boarded in the late 60s and early 70s (there weren't to many left by the end of the early 80s) They always had 2 or 3 tires where they would ride over the rail at the widest part of the boat. They trawled from the stern once the trawl boards broke the water they would make wide circles washing the catch into the end of the bag then  winching in the tail bag of catch. They had what was called a lazy line just above the throat of the bag and haul it into the boat a little forward of midship. I believe the rail it was refereed to as a chafing rail assisted in the lifting of the bag keeping it away from the hull so the webbing would not catch on any protrusions , nail heads, splinters etc. Its been a long time memory fades I think I am right though I could be wrong
 
Did it happen to be docked at the large processor by the old Biloxi Bridge ?  By the way absolutely accurate and beautiful build brings back a lot of memories

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 231 – Fore Topmast Crosstrees 2
 
After the last post, I explained the drawing revisions at the foot of the fore topmast, specifically the dimensioning of the square heeling.  The first picture shows this part of the mast positioned on the trestle trees of the fore top. 
 

 
The bottom of the topmast is about 1" lower than the lower faces of the 18" deep trestle trees when the fid is down on the top faces.  The height of the sheave is not a critical dimension, but must be above the square section so the hoisting line will pass inside the square opening when the mast is raised.  One of the eyebolts on the underside of the cap would have been used to support the lifting tackle.
 
In the next picture the crosstrees have been permanently attached to the mast and the four deadeyes for the topgallant shrouds have been fitted but not yet blackened.
 

 
These 8" deadeyes will secure the 5" shrouds above and the same-sized topgallant futtock shrouds below.  The naming of these futtock shrouds that are installed as part of the topmast is a constant source of confusion to me, but I think I have finally cemented it into my mind.  In the next picture the deadeye straps have been blackened and the masthead has been fitted with its trim.
 

 
The battens are very small and will be covered by the rigging collars.  The cleats on either side will support a bullseye for the main royal stay.  Before installing the topmast, the topgallant futtock shrouds were installed.  As with those under the top, these are hooked through the deadeye straps at the top and lashed to eyebolts in the futtock band at their feet.  I have attached some pictures showing the method I am using to form the eye splices in the served shrouds.  In the first picture a small hook has been formed and threaded with the served 5" line.
 

 
The serving at the end is kept from unraveling with a drop of CA.  I am trying to limit the use of CA to non-permanent applications like this - except for the attachment of metal parts, like eyebolts, to wood.  The line was then seized at the throat of the splice with fine cotton thread with a tight overhand knot.  In the next picture darkened wood glue has been applied in the area of the splice.
 

 
The glued area was first wetted to help the glue penetrate through the serving.  The glue joint was then clamped with the modified alligator clamp shown in the picture   The jaws of this clamp have been filled with epoxy sculpting material to form a round clamping hole shown between the jaws.  When the glue has dried the excess rope was cut from the joint with a sharp knife as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The cut is made to form the taper of the splice.  The purpose of the glue is only to hold the joint together to allow wrapping of serving down to the bottom of the splice.  The glued serving will hold the splice together.  The finished splice is shown in the next picture.
 

 
Finishing with a smoothly tapered splice at this scale can be a challenge, but after glue is applied to seal the added serving, some crimping may be done to eliminate bumps.  Removing the excess serving without leaving short stubs is also a challenge.  This is done after the glue dries.
 
In the next picture the hook has been blackened and temporarily fitted to its strap so the length to the eye at the other end may be measured as shown in the picture.
 

 
An eye is formed at the lower end by the same method but without the hook.  The lashing of these lower ends will be described in the next part.
 
 
Ed

Continues, as promised, the publishing of the last images. 
 
And now the topic is over, Bye Bye to all of your. Jack.
 
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As promised, here below a first batch of images, without the plexiglass cover. Jack.
 
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Wednesday, August 30, 2017 - Finished
 
These four pictures show the finished project, under its plexiglass cover . .
 
Due to reflexions and low light the photos are rather poor, but they still make the idea of how the whole complex appears.
 
Now the adventure is really over.
 
A further batch of more detailed images, as my customary, will follow soon.
 
A warm greeting, Jack.Aubrey.

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Mark,
 
Man how quick did the Death Star take to whip out those carriages?
I need one but Darth Vader took a light saber to my checking account.

Keith,
 
Masterpiece, museum quality me thinks.

Of all the luggers we boarded in the late 60s and early 70s (there weren't to many left by the end of the early 80s) They always had 2 or 3 tires where they would ride over the rail at the widest part of the boat. They trawled from the stern once the trawl boards broke the water they would make wide circles washing the catch into the end of the bag then  winching in the tail bag of catch. They had what was called a lazy line just above the throat of the bag and haul it into the boat a little forward of midship. I believe the rail it was refereed to as a chafing rail assisted in the lifting of the bag keeping it away from the hull so the webbing would not catch on any protrusions , nail heads, splinters etc. Its been a long time memory fades I think I am right though I could be wrong
 
Did it happen to be docked at the large processor by the old Biloxi Bridge ?  By the way absolutely accurate and beautiful build brings back a lot of memories

And so another post prior to yet another enforced break. At the end of the week my son gets married to his long term girlfriend. I did wonder whether it would ever happen as he is imfamous for some of his quotes e.g:
 
When he and his soon to be wife were out together with friends he was asked:-
"Paul why don't you jet get on and propose to her?".
Quick as a flash he respond with:-
"I'm 95% sure that she is the one for me, but that means their is a 1 in 20 chance that someone better will turn up".
 
Fortunately no one better turned up.
 
Back to the build and once again thank you Julie for your comment and thanks to all those who have visited.
 
I finished the guard rail. It took a bit of time to make the attachment features - they were all very small. The guard wire was .020 clear plastic coated stainless steel wire. For £2 I have enough to last several lifetimes. I attached one end of the wire and held the other end taught with an elastic band while the CA glue dried. 
 

 
 
 
 
 

John / Julie - Thank you.
 
The next task was to get on with mounting the guard rail stanchions. The trick was to get them all truly vertical - and hence parallel. Each stanchion sits above one of the bulwark ribs so axial positioning was relatively straightforward. I stuck a strip of masking tape along each rail and marked out the stanchion line on this.

With the positions marked it was time for drilling. My home made drill press has the advantage that the pillar can be rotated round thus allowing holes to be drilled which are outside the surface of the base plate, making the accurate drilling of stanchion location holes a simple task.

I needed to make sure the drill didn't penetrate too far at the stern - drilling trough the hull would have been very annoying. I find putting a sleeve on the drill works very well as a depth control.

All drilling had to be done with the hull sitting true along the waterline and level across the beam.

At 6 positions the stanchions are reinforce with bracing struts - to take the tensile loading of the wire guard rail. All stanchions have feet, made by the same technique as used for the deck eye feet. The stanchions are currently in place awaiting gluing.

John:
The shrimpers with whom In have spoken just called it a rub rail. It may be that some of them are not old enough to recall its exact purpose. I have seen many photos with the tire slung over the side. That may be the answer to Carl's question.
 
This boat worked for Biloxi Canning so it would have been docked out front. You might be thinking of Cruso's which was around back near the old bridge.
 
Thanks for the kind words.
 
Russ
 

Of all the luggers we boarded in the late 60s and early 70s (there weren't to many left by the end of the early 80s) They always had 2 or 3 tires where they would ride over the rail at the widest part of the boat. They trawled from the stern once the trawl boards broke the water they would make wide circles washing the catch into the end of the bag then  winching in the tail bag of catch. They had what was called a lazy line just above the throat of the bag and haul it into the boat a little forward of midship. I believe the rail it was refereed to as a chafing rail assisted in the lifting of the bag keeping it away from the hull so the webbing would not catch on any protrusions , nail heads, splinters etc. Its been a long time memory fades I think I am right though I could be wrong
 
Did it happen to be docked at the large processor by the old Biloxi Bridge ?  By the way absolutely accurate and beautiful build brings back a lot of memories

Of all the luggers we boarded in the late 60s and early 70s (there weren't to many left by the end of the early 80s) They always had 2 or 3 tires where they would ride over the rail at the widest part of the boat. They trawled from the stern once the trawl boards broke the water they would make wide circles washing the catch into the end of the bag then  winching in the tail bag of catch. They had what was called a lazy line just above the throat of the bag and haul it into the boat a little forward of midship. I believe the rail it was refereed to as a chafing rail assisted in the lifting of the bag keeping it away from the hull so the webbing would not catch on any protrusions , nail heads, splinters etc. Its been a long time memory fades I think I am right though I could be wrong
 
Did it happen to be docked at the large processor by the old Biloxi Bridge ?  By the way absolutely accurate and beautiful build brings back a lot of memories

Of all the luggers we boarded in the late 60s and early 70s (there weren't to many left by the end of the early 80s) They always had 2 or 3 tires where they would ride over the rail at the widest part of the boat. They trawled from the stern once the trawl boards broke the water they would make wide circles washing the catch into the end of the bag then  winching in the tail bag of catch. They had what was called a lazy line just above the throat of the bag and haul it into the boat a little forward of midship. I believe the rail it was refereed to as a chafing rail assisted in the lifting of the bag keeping it away from the hull so the webbing would not catch on any protrusions , nail heads, splinters etc. Its been a long time memory fades I think I am right though I could be wrong
 
Did it happen to be docked at the large processor by the old Biloxi Bridge ?  By the way absolutely accurate and beautiful build brings back a lot of memories

I buy from them (Cherry) on a regular basis.   Their cherry is quite good.   They have limited thicknesses on their website but if you need something not shown send them an email with what you need and they will send you a PayPal invoice.   Delivery is timely and milling is quite good.  In fact, I just ordered several hundred dollars worth of Cherry to start mfg barge kits.
 
Chuck

Hello,
 
Little progress as I we spent some time at the coast...
Still struggling with the rope coils : this is definitely a no-fun chapter to me, although I try to make this as realistic as can be, still not entirely satisfied with the result.
no harm done : it's all dry fit

here's part 2 of 2

Will
Feel for you started mine 2013 on the final page of the rigging was making too many mistakes working too fast. Started another build and am going back and forth sometimes you just need a break. Think of what you will have when completed it will be worth the effort. Good Luck.

Will
Feel for you started mine 2013 on the final page of the rigging was making too many mistakes working too fast. Started another build and am going back and forth sometimes you just need a break. Think of what you will have when completed it will be worth the effort. Good Luck.

Actually any wood will glue well if the right glue is used and the wood is properly preped.

Further to my post above, the tutorials which show the use of ammonia for blackening also stress the need for safety precautions, including eye protection and ventilation. Ammonia can be rather nasty stuff (it also bleaches and rots your clothes if you're not careful).
 
Steven

I'd say use what you think will work for you.  My kit models were set up using the Billings' jig.  Others use a variety of devices or none at all.  The rotational ones just make it easier to turn the whole thing around for working on the bow, stern and each side.   I do believe some sort of holder/jig should be used to keep everything properly square until several rows (strakes) of planking are installed.

A beautiful build Mark,
 
that view from aft on the rudder is very impressive  
 
Nils

The gudgeon & pintle are now done, the first metalwork component is made & it feels good. I made the pin by brazing a cap onto a piece of rod. I predrilled into some flat bar to make it easier to braze them together.
 
The single drilled tab that will go into the rudder blade, plus the pieces for the pin.

 
Partly brazed, but it needed a bit more solder.

The pieces. I sanded the flat bar round & also thinner to keep it in proportion.

 
Done.