John Allen

Pickels isn't upset she is high as a kite too much catnip

Pickels isn't upset she is high as a kite too much catnip

My novice experience in reference to complicated rigging and especially ratlines I started using ca specifically on the ratlines on vic, I got to about 30 % finished and the shiny spots were to noticeable, and switched to watered elmers which looked great but I still had the old  shine. That is what made me cut them all out and redo among other noticeable errors.
 
Use the diluted Elmers. Some of the pros mention use no glue so the lines can be loosened or repaired or tightened over time I heartily agree with that but do not have enough nerve yet to poke my big fingers in tight spots to redo a line. maybe one day.
 
This based on my limited knowledge, good luck.

Been a bit since the last update.  Thanks for following along on this journey of discovery and sawdust and for the likes and the comments.
 
A bit of a minor/major milestone... the ship is in the cradle... YIPPEE!!!!!
 
The next step is start removing the build board and trimming down the frames to the sheer strake(s).  
 
I considered pedestals versus a cradle as I didn't want to stress the keel, etc .nor did I want to attempt to put a large baseboard on at this point.  The cradle just seems (to me) to be steadier and stronger.  I noted that I do seem to get some wobble on my Constellation which is on pedestals.  It could be my method of mounting is faulty or just the way it is with them.
 
The cradle is 1/4" mahogany (see photo).  After finessing it into position, assembling it and re-finessing, I drilled a 3/32" hole through the cradle and inserted a brass tube of the appropriate diameter.  I mounted the cradle into position, and drilled (using the tubing as a drill guide) a 1/16" hole through the keel, frames and keelson.  A brass rod was inserted with a light coating of epoxy.  When set, the cradles were set into place with more epoxy on the brass rod and in two places on each end of the cradle.  The structure seems sound and steady. 
 
I tried to design the cradle so as not to hide the lines of her and I think I pretty much succeeded.   At some point, the hole where the crosspieces go through the cradle will be covered by a small carving on each.  I'm leaning towards a fleur de lis.
 
Anyway, here's the pictures.
 

 

 

 

Quite so, Druxey
 
This is my state of the art wordprocesser
 
My ultra modern encrypting machine
 
AND the latest super fine automatic scrollsaw alias "Finger cutter"

Pickels isn't upset she is high as a kite too much catnip

My novice experience in reference to complicated rigging and especially ratlines I started using ca specifically on the ratlines on vic, I got to about 30 % finished and the shiny spots were to noticeable, and switched to watered elmers which looked great but I still had the old  shine. That is what made me cut them all out and redo among other noticeable errors.
 
Use the diluted Elmers. Some of the pros mention use no glue so the lines can be loosened or repaired or tightened over time I heartily agree with that but do not have enough nerve yet to poke my big fingers in tight spots to redo a line. maybe one day.
 
This based on my limited knowledge, good luck.

Pickels isn't upset she is high as a kite too much catnip

My novice experience in reference to complicated rigging and especially ratlines I started using ca specifically on the ratlines on vic, I got to about 30 % finished and the shiny spots were to noticeable, and switched to watered elmers which looked great but I still had the old  shine. That is what made me cut them all out and redo among other noticeable errors.
 
Use the diluted Elmers. Some of the pros mention use no glue so the lines can be loosened or repaired or tightened over time I heartily agree with that but do not have enough nerve yet to poke my big fingers in tight spots to redo a line. maybe one day.
 
This based on my limited knowledge, good luck.

Hi Ed:
 
I've tried CA and diluted PVA, but my favorite is Liquitex Acrylic Matte Medium.  It  holds well, dries invisibly, and does not cause the rigging to get brittle.  

Bear, I don't think Pickles is "feelin the spirit" by his/her expression.  Probably hoping this pic doesn't go viral.  
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all at MSW.
 
By the way, I have only completed one build and I did use CA on some of the rigging.  I did fall victim to lines breaking, especially the strops around the blocks if they were twisted or bent in a direction other that how it dried.  I will try some watered down white glue or fabric stiffener to secure knots if need be on my current build.
 
Tom

Ahoy Mates
 
Since I am now sensitive to CA-it causes me to have symtoms like I have hay fever,I also just use CA to stiffen the ends of thread and with material that PVA can not hold. It was a great change in my building quality of the rigging and how the thread looks after it has been glued. I also use flat varnish to hold knots.
 
I use transparent Titebond and Titebond II. The transparent Titebond has a more flexible when it hardens,and is almost clear.
 
Then only problem I have is with black thread and how the silvering shows if you do not water  it down enough. It causes holding problems since there is not the same thick glue to start with. Sometimes I just use the regular thick glue and then touch up the silvered area with flat black ink or paint,and then cover with flat varnish.
 
But it always beats the problems with brittle,stiff and glass like surfaces that CA can create on the thread and where you use it. With the PVA,it still shrinks down into the thread when it dries,which CA doesn't.
 
It doesn't harden as fast as CA,so you do not build as fast,but that's a great thing since you end up looking and thinking about what you are doing and have done. Remeber you are doing this for enjoyment not a speed building race.
 
Just try doing the same knots and rigging with CA and then PVA and really look at the end results. You decide- it's your build and you are the one who knows which one you like best. And PVA is easier to debond with just rubbing alcohol . 
 
 
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year form Pickels and Keith

Hello Ed.
This is MY take on the matter. 
I NEVER use CA in my rigging, EXCEPT to stiffen the end of a rope and cut it in diagonal to make a kind of needle so I can insert it through a tight hole.
Having said that, CA runs through the ropes making them take angles or straight lines where you don't want them, leaves an ugly shiny spot, makes the lines brittle, and it will be a mess when (not IF) you get your fingers glued together.
I have used FLAT lacquer to secure my knots for years and I don't see myself changing. It doesn't have any of the drawbacks I mentioned before, plus is a lot cheaper. The next option is diluted white glue.
As far as technical data, I don't have any... my opinion is based on experience only.
 
Hope this helps make up your mind.
Best regards
 
Edit: I meant FLAT "Varnish" above. Sorry.

Hello. My name is Andrew. I am 9 years old and this is my first wooden boat build. I am posting this under my Dad's account. He is building a longboat and helping me with my boat.
 
The "Dinghy" is made by Midwest. We started by making sure all the pieces were in the box and reading the instructions.
 
The next step was the draw guidelines on the floor of the dinghy. This was so we knew where to glue the ribs.
 
After that, we made the ribs and glued them to the floor.
 
I am enjoying building my first wooden boat.
 
Andrew.
 
 

Trust me when I tell you, I cussed my way through this fiddly, goat rope of a masking job to get all these itty bitty stripes painted on today. Now, I shall go say ten hail mary's and our father's and be extremely thankful it's all done for this part. But I do have some more, less fiddly masking to do to finish the deck. It will be a cake walk compared to what I finished today, thank goodness.
 

 

extremely nice build

On this point Gaetan, I have to agree and disagree. I think that this all depends on the particular task at hand, I remember that on a small half hull (7 inches long) I needed a narrow very long chisel. and sometimes I need a very small and short one.
 
Michael

Janet B,
               THE PLANE IS A GREAT TOOL,I ALSO PURCHASED SOME FRENCH CURVES MADE OF S/STEEL

extremely nice build

Roman,
 
When will boxwood and alaskan cedar blocks be available.
 
Wish you well on your endeavor! 

extremely nice build

I wish I could have been more fruitful with an update this week.   the second part of the mid ship assembly has produced quite a few ideas....mostly in the way of things to add.  rather than any progress forward.   it has also led to some mass production,  to add to the tedium of the situation.  to get a feel for what I want to add....or what I could possibly add,  the fish box was put back in place.   everything from the first part of the assembly was correctly placed.
 

 
all of the termination points from the gallows was cemented and trimmed.
 

 
I agreed with you Jud........the fish bow needs some sort of apparatus to keep it clean.   a pair of reels were made up,  slicing more dowel for the sides and the center spacer parts.   I would not have thought that dowel was porous,  but with thin slices in assembling the reels,  I could see CA filter through them.   an added pain......they kept sticking to my fingers.  two reel racks were made too,  to hold the reels.   they are still in their raw state.
 

 
it took some sanding and fashioning to get them to shape.  but here they are,  partially assembled.
 

 
hose..........I'll do what I've done in the past.   I have Billing cord {thread}....supplied in kit for the anchor rigging,  large enough for it.   I'm going to douse it down with paint,  and groom it until it is smooth.   hmmmmmmm,  what color?  I have some lime green......a neon green that you wouldn't catch me dead,  painting a boat hull in.   clamping one end of the cord in my vise,  paint was poured on a rag and whipped onto the cord...in one direction only....this will make all the hairs lay down.  it was messaged over and over.......as it was drying,  it would become tacky.......then I could stop.
 

 
I thought of other types of racks........I began making these.
 

 
there are to be four of these.......toggling between them,  I made rope coils.
 

 
I made another type as well......these likely will be piled on the deck.
 

 
I thought of a good compliment to them.....I could make some of my buoys.   I first made them when I did the Nordkap,  but I actually did come up with the idea,  until I started the Cux 87.  confusing........I was working on the Nordkap,  in contact with Tom @ Billings at this point.  in our conversations,  he asked if I knew anyone who would want to build a model or two for him.  they would be used for exhibitions at expos,  on his business site as compressed build logs,  and just to show folks what the finished product would look like.  I didn't jump at the chance,  but I did mention that perhaps some folks here on the site would like to volunteer.  kinda cool........kit to build for free......although you'd need to arrange to get it back to him afterwards  {scary thought,  in my view....Wisconsin}.  I was already sending him Nordkap build logs.
    I forget if he ever asked here on the site {he had opened dialog in the dealer section}....but the short of it all went by later bringing up the subject again,  me expressing my doubts,  him not having any doubts,  and me excepting.  so I ended up with two builds in the works.  the idea came around with the cux,  and I applied it on the Nordkap as well.  quite a bit of knowledge and stuff was learned by the time these two were finished....a lot of it was gleaned here.  I thought about the buoys.......but then I thought that they might make dandy lanterns.  I thought they might confuse one another,  even though the color of them would be different.   I once showed how to make them......but it was long lost with the first big crash.   if anyone would like,  I can show it again......it was my initial foray into craft stores and what they had to offer.
     anyway.........now that I had these parts ready.......I should paint them.   that happened next.
 

 
I also painted up some chain to look rusty and crap.........kinda made me laugh with this one aspect I wanted to try to do,  so I could at least make one iota of progress.   along the platform of the fore deck stairway,  I had placed some hooks.
 

 
you might see them in the picture.   once painted,  I was going to add some chain loops to it...and there you go......a quaint bit of detail.   well...........you see how close the rabbit hole is to where I'm working?   that's where the chain went!
   my eyes were trained on the hook and trying to get the link to slip on.........I dropped it and heard the link tinkling sound of it as it went down inside the hull!.  I tried to fish it out,  turning the hull upside down and shaking it back and fourth,  but by that time,  I wasn't sure where it was in the hull.    that's what I get..........

Johnnymike,
 
So simplistic it hurts, I had to tie the ratlines on my HMS Vic twice the first time I went the lined paper guide route, to tedious still had an inward pull. When I finished they looked bad and I cut them all some many hours down the drain cut them all out. I then free handed the lines I placed the bottom line, one 1/4, one 1/2 and one at the uppermost line, and eyeballed the spacing got really good, it was very quick too.
 
I like your idea have you tried to clamp the bottom and uppermost only then fill in???
 
Kudos you have come up with a keeper this buds for you

extremely nice build