lmagna

Hi Mark
 
At last you are really getting some shipyard time in, and the results are starting to show! Great progress and workmanship.
 
Lou

DUM DUM DE DUM, DA DE DA DA DA DA DA!!!! (Need sound) 
 
Lou

Thanks for all your patience and following along.  Many twists and turns on this journey and a few are self-inflicted.
 
Lou,
I experimented and used several jigs and all the results were, for lack of a better word..... meh.   
 
Tom,
I suspect you're right on the more practice.
 
 
After a good night's sleep... I reconsidered things.  New glasses weren't helping much and I probably focused too intently on the problem and used the wrong materials.  So, I'll revisit these little pests. Here's my thoughts:  The thread I chose was too thick which limited me on block size.  I need to use the smaller blocks due to the distance from the bulkhead hook to the gun carriage eyebolt.   I located my stash of fine linen thread that I wanted to use with the ropewalk and a test this morning shows it's doable with the smaller blocks (the 1/8" ones).  Vision goes bananas but not like it was so I'm stepping back from this for now.  Maybe in a week or two things will be a bit more stable.  So the gun rigging isn't dead yet... just on hold.
 
In the meantime, I'll sort out the deck furniture for the gun deck, make a rigging plan to sort out what I need to run to the gundeck before it's inaccessible, and maybe work on the exterior hull... eyebolts w/rings, channels and possibly the lower deadeyes and chains.  Almost forgot.. ship's boats need to there also.
 
So.. going to sit down with the plans and design and build her galley stoves.  Should be fun.
 
 

CL415 'superscooper' water bomber fire fighting aircraft. Designed specifically for Fire Fighting, built originally by Canadair, later by Bombardier. Seen here scooping up water to drop on to a Forrest fire.
15" X 11"
Jim

Tell me Scott, why did you add the shading? It looks as if the grey layers blocked it out, or is it the pictures in which it is not visible (or my poor eyesight)?
There is an other option to mask without sticky tape. You can use a sheet of paper, cut into shape or straight as required, and hold it in front of the area to be masked. Might take some practice in the beginning ... it might do the trick ...
 
Forgot to add:
It's not meant as negative criticism, I know it's easy to comment from the side ...

The guns were supposed to be two-tone gray paint job.  I started by painting the bottom half the lighter gray. 

 Then the barrels the darker gray 

 but then I realized I could not mask off the bottom half with those delicate railings there.  I ended up  painting it all the light gray. 
 All that's left now is to paint the blast bags  and apply some shading. 

Piet, make sure any and all holes in your base molding are sealed. Those epoxy "waters" will find the holes and you'll pour it onto your floor.  We found that out years back, doing exactly that for a wharf scene on a model railroad.
 
Java is looking great.

Hi Mark
Probably a pretty dumb suggestion as I have never in my life worked with tackle as small as this and therefore it is kind of like the student talking to the Sensei.
 
Would it be possible to pin the blocks to a flat surface like a bug collection with pins to hold them until you are able to secure the outer rope and hooks? Then you could hold them with a third hand type of tool by the secured lines and run the pulley ropes through them until they are fully rigged.
 
I am almost certain that there is something that probably prevents this method from working but I thought I would throw it out there anyway just in case.  

Thanks a lot for the tip, bought a bunch of sheets just for the future. So far the price from my favourite European vendor (Arkowood) is the same as it was in 2015, but good to know that it might increase soon!

Hi Mark
Probably a pretty dumb suggestion as I have never in my life worked with tackle as small as this and therefore it is kind of like the student talking to the Sensei.
 
Would it be possible to pin the blocks to a flat surface like a bug collection with pins to hold them until you are able to secure the outer rope and hooks? Then you could hold them with a third hand type of tool by the secured lines and run the pulley ropes through them until they are fully rigged.
 
I am almost certain that there is something that probably prevents this method from working but I thought I would throw it out there anyway just in case.  

Hi Mark
Probably a pretty dumb suggestion as I have never in my life worked with tackle as small as this and therefore it is kind of like the student talking to the Sensei.
 
Would it be possible to pin the blocks to a flat surface like a bug collection with pins to hold them until you are able to secure the outer rope and hooks? Then you could hold them with a third hand type of tool by the secured lines and run the pulley ropes through them until they are fully rigged.
 
I am almost certain that there is something that probably prevents this method from working but I thought I would throw it out there anyway just in case.  

Keith, 
Your last post just points out that we guys have a reason for saving "stuff" that the Admiral thinks should be binned.   I'm printing it out just in case.....

Today couldn't do anything outside because it snowed, yup, 2 inches. All my crocus flowers were covered. Then it got to be 45F and it all melted in less than a hour. 
 
So I took the 1/2" and 1/4" maritime plywood in the basement shop and glued the templates on them. The 3/4" marine plywood is 4' x 4' which is too big to carry around and will be used the next few days when it gets warmer. Other templates were glued on 3mm, 4mm, and 5mm walnut and oak. 
The 1/2" - 2' by 4' regular plywood is to be used to make a large template for the vanes (wieken). I bought extra as that project needs to be accurate. 
Marcus  

Thanks for the likes and comments.
 
Well, I finally hit the brick wall.  So rather than let it stop me, I'll go around it.
 
Attached photos show the blocks for the gun rigging.   Unfortunately, even at 5/32" they're still too big. I tried Chuck's 1/8" blocks but had to give that up after sending an even dozen flying across the room.  Too tiny to handle and to chase the holes for the .017" line.  A bit frustrating to say the least as I was enjoying doing the seizings for the lines. I'm going to look for some smaller line and hope I can use these small blocks for the 6 cannons up on the weather decks.   In the meantime, I'm telling myself that all that work would be hidden anyway under the decks and gangways.  I think the next model will have to be 1:48....
 
Anyway, here's the closeups of the cannon that tested with. 
 
Footnote1:  Somewhere around the shop are 7 or 8 of the 5/32" blocks which I'm sure I'll hear the vacuum suck up.
Footnote2:  The black hook in the first photo is one of Dafi's 2mm hooks.  Even the thin sowing thread looks huge when blown up.  
 
Time to go install deck furniture and build her galleys.
 

Looking good, Mario.  Go easy on the sanding and fairing as the frames are fragile until you get a bit of planking on them.  Don't ask how I know.  

I decided today  (well the admiral did)  to tidy out a cupboard  so I could better home my boat bits, very good job was done so it was  double rum and biscuits,    after doing this it inspired me to work out my next progress with the build.
It occured to me that the hatchway with steps (still needed steps)  anyway  its right next to where the capstan will be located (and as I dont want any accident claims from sailors falling down the hatch whilst doing capstan duties)    I have decided to lay a few planks fitted flush with the hatch frame,   have to make the ship as safe as possible the crew will have enough to contend with during battle.
 
OC.

If by having a look at my build (as I too am building a 18th century  Frigate)  it would be an honour  and if you cane get any tips from by build - that would be great.
 
 
 
 
OC.

Thanks Aviaamator!  As I mentioned, this is my first model, I'm not expecting perfection, but I bet your first model wasn't exactly, how do you say? Museum Quality?  
 
Thanks Fright! I've always been a fan of the frigates, privateers, and pirate vessels. I appreciate the kind advice! We'll get her out of port seaworthy and pretty
Thanks OC, I'm having a great time, and learning alot from my mistakes and successes. It's great meeting you, and enjoying the journey

Any kit is achievable  patience and time and  most important  - enjoying it.
 
OC.

Circle of Thomas Luny (British, 1759-1837) H.M.S. 'Iris' dismasted by the French frigate 'Citoyenne-Francaise', 13th. May, 1793 
oil on canvas
49 x 68.6cm. (19 1/4 x 27in. ) FOOTNOTES
Although it ended indecisively, the action between H.M.S. 'Iris' and the French frigate 'Citoyenne-Francaise' is of some importance as it was the first sea fight of the French Revolutionary Wars. On 13th. May 1793, the 32-gun frigate H.M.S. 'Iris' was cruising 200 miles west of Cape Finisterre when she sighted the larger French frigate 'Citoyenne-Francaise' and gave chase. Both vessels opened fire at 6.30 p.m. and a furious engagement lasting one-and-a-half hours ensued until the Frenchman turned away at 8 p.m. Practically dismasted, 'Iris' was unable to pursue the enemy vessel which escaped into Bordeaux whilst 'Iris' herself eventually made Gibralter where she was repaired and refitted.

Hello Everyone!
 
This is my first wooden ship model, the French 8-pounder Frigate La Flore. The kit is manufactured by Constructo of Spain. I would say the directions are fairly straightforward, and there are plenty of pictures in the booklet provided to help one build a beautiful model ship.
 
This particular model is a very fascinating model of a real ship that served many masters, and sailed many seas... 
 
She was a member of the 32-gun Blonde Class 8-pounder frigates, and was built in 1756. She served the navy of Louis XV well, until being captured in 1761 by the English.
Once captured, she was taken into the Royal navy as "HMS FLORA" and her main armament was upgraded to 12-pounders. She served the Royal Navy well for over a decade and a half, before being caught up in the American Revolutionary War where she was scuttled and burnt at Rhode Island by the  British to prevent her imminent capture by superior French forces.
 
This would not be the end of the vessel, however, as the Americans refloated her, repaired her, and sent her back to France after the conclusion of the war, where she was sold to the French Royal Navy under Louis XVI, as "Flore Americaine" in 1784. Shortly after, she was re-rated as a "Corvette" and her armament of 12-pounders reverted back to the earlier 8-pounders she carried prior to British service. 
 
Finally, she was sold out of the service in 1791, and purchased as a Privateer in 1793, renamed "Citoyenne Française"... She was returned briefly to the French Royal Navy in 1795, and then returned to her owner as the renamed Privateer "Flore", where she was finally captured by HMS Anson and HMS Phaeton, but not added to the Royal navy, and was instead Broken up, ending a career spanning over 40 years, and sailing the Seven Seas.... 
 
Here are the first images, I hope you will all enjoy, and offer your suggestions and constructive...
 
I hope you all enjoy! I appreciate all feedback, suggestions, and constructive criticisms btw , thanks!!  Sargon

HELLO ALL,
BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE.

SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM.

THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION.

THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING.







 
 
THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!

Thanks very much gents for your kind words.
 
Yeah, Denis, it took some real delicate maneuvering with the paint brush.  Fortunately for me, My hands are still rock steady and by supporting my painting hand with my non painting hand it worked out. Even do some spots left handed. 
 
When running my aircraft repair business way back when, I have worked a lot with epoxies, resins and urethanes but not this polymer stuff. In a way it works similar and can be poured in thicker layers. A lot will be experimenting on my part. The base layer should not be much of a concern, it's the finishing of the sea's surface and the area around the hull that'll be a challenge. We'll see how how it all comes out.
Another challenge will be the guns discharging their grenades.
 
I bought a bag of really good looking beansprouts yesterday to make an Indonesian salad with.  Gwen likes it too, so this morning is spend time in the kitchen.  This dish is called "sambal taygeh."  For the afternoon I wanted to glue the molding pieces to the base but all my glue had dried up due to lack of use and had to run out to get a fresh bottle of Titebond. I did manage to glue and nail the two long sides though, before beer thirty
Tomorrow we'll do the side pieces. After that's done I can fill the "tub" with water to see how many ounce it holds so I have a measurement to go by when buying the polymer stuff.
 
Cheers, 

I've been meaning to get these pictures up here.   I tried a couple of different ideas on the stair issue.   I continued with the original idea,  adding the stairs to the landing.   I then thought that the landing might be a bit too deep.


...if anyone needs a guillotine....or a hangman's platform.......I'm your man       I then tried idea #2........the same basic double flight of stairs,  but I went higher...and gave it closed in sides.

you see the edge that has been cut out.......I will do the entire flight.

here I get the notion that I've gone too high.  perhaps a couple steps lower.

...here are the infamous before and after pictures............

I then did them in mahogany stain......they came out looking blotchy.   my next idea should raise my expectations...hopefully take it to the next level.

Started to plank the inner side of the gundeck. I may cut the sweep ports prior to planking the rest of the ship. So if the planking is damaged I have to redo the section or to paint the outside like proposed by the manual. To cut the scuppers I first marked the positions of the scuppers on the strip, made a template for the scupper out of stainless steel (0.5 mm), fixed that template onto the strip with two clamps and then cut the scupper with a needle file within the scupper-template. Dry-fit looked not to bad.