king derelict

You talked me into it. Nathaniel and a friend are on their way from Spain alan

Well, I'm not sure what happened this morning but this nearly took a short flight into the bin. I think it was the lack of detail parts and the look of the bare plastic daubed in filler. Anyway after a deep breathe I airbrushed some black Mig One Shot primer on and suddenly it seemed viable again. I found I still needed to add a bit more filler in places so primer will be reapplied tomorrow once the filler has been sanded down. I'm actually thinking that I quite like the look of the Condor in flight something like it sits on the painting stick. I would use a length of clear acrylic rod and maybe make a base in the shape of Germany with 1939 borders. I'm not sure if this sort of thing is an acceptable presentation. It also leaves an aircraft in flight with stopped props so maybe I should leave the idea for the jet age. The landing gear is not bad but a bit basic. I spent a lot of time studying photos and video online trying to determine exactly what configuration is accurate. So far it seems that the two bladed props are accurate and so is the modified window layout. I watched one video suggesting that D-2600 had a gun turret behind the cockpit but so far I haven't seen any photos to confirm it. A clear nose with a gun is also said to be there but again no photos. The kit has the relevant clear parts (as well as the gondola under the fuselage. If I go for the wheels up option the main gear doors are part of the kit but I am not sure whether the wheel is supposed to protrude through the door or retract fully. Photos seem to suggest that they retract fully. The kit provides nothing for the tail wheel and again photos are vague whether the wheel is covered, retracts or just stays in place. As a trans-Atlantic airliner I would have thought they would have wanted every bit of drag cleaned up but maybe in 1937 it wasn't considered worth it. So a few things to consider as I clean up for the next paint session. I saw Roden have a 1/144 B-36. About a 20 inch wingspan even at 1/144! Thanks for looking in and the likes and comments Alan

Thank you OC. Oh yes I remember them well, also the clear plastic frosting with the glue if you got it on the piece. I remember the Airfix Concorde having those strip of window pieces. Alan

Thank you very much OC. They have a number of musketeers and arquebusiers in similar uniforms. They also have some English Civil War figures International Serie Archives - Page 2 of 6 - Art Girona (art-girona.com) I am quite tempted by Nathanel Feinnes Alan

Thank you Phil Alan

Thank you very much OC. It was a nice kit to build too. Alan

A start has been made in between finishing the other models in progress. The Roden box is very full of parts but there are large numbers of bits on the sprues that don't apply to this version. The windows were added to the fuselage halves. There are no interior details and no way to see them so the fuselage halves were then joined. The fit was excellent. Very little gap, just a nasty sink on the upper fuselage behind the cockpit. Adding the wings was another matter and a significant gap is present between the lower wing and the fuselage. I'm using Mr Dissolved Putty for the first time. Apart from the pungent smell I like it. It seems to dry to a harder and more workable finish than the Vallejo putty I have used in the past. I've masked the windows ready for priming. The kit provided black decals that will surround the windows and cockpit and hopefully the masks will fall within the area of teh decal. An oddity in the kit appeared at this point. The decal for the nose has a window between the cockpit and the wing. There is nothing to indicate this on the fuselage mouldings but all the paint schemes also show the window. I have run a thin piece of masking tape across where I think the window will be and hopefully I may be able to drill it out after the decal is placed and shows where the window is situated. On the other hand there is a window to the stern of the main run of windows in the cabin and this does not appear on any of the versions shown - but the instructions has you add the separate "glass" insert as if it should be there. I have filled it in per the photos I have found online. I think I will try a trial black priming and see how many defects are still present. After priming I will build up the engine parts, cylinders and nacelles and add them Thanks for looking in, likes and comments Alan

Thank you very much Chris Its very reminiscent of the submarine invented by Leonard of Quirm (a character found in the Terry Pratchett books) Alan

Thank you very much Andrew This was a better experience than I expected, no flash and everything fitted well although no alignment pins etc Alan

I added a short piece of cor to the figures left wrist and painted to match the lanyard cast into the arquebuse rest. The putty at teh wrists was carefully files and the cuffs and hands were repainted. then the rest was added to the figure. The base was painted and some Woodlands Scenic grass added. I was going to add a few more bits of foliage but it seemed a bit too much and unless he had no choice I can't imagine the arquebusier setting up in the middle of a briar patch so I kept it simple. He has now been carefully separated from the painting base and moved to the shelf. Maybe its time to choose another Art Girona offering. Thank you for looking in, for the likes and comments. Once again this has been a very enjoyable short project Alan

Thank you Jack. I'm glad I tried polishing the helmet instead of painting it. I have a couple more armoured figures so I will continue to experiment with teh finishes Alan

This is a great subject Yves. I’m looking forward to it. Alan

After tidying up the face its been a day of building up the parts of the figure. I decided head first, then the sword because it will be baulked by the arquebus , then arms and the arquebus itself. The head was easy; the wide collar gave plenty of area for the glue to grip and it is also mostly vertical. The sword and the arms were another matter. Their weight makes them very difficult to keep in position while the glue sets. I'm using 5 minute epoxy and the best results come from applying the glue to the mating surfaces then waiting for the glue to become almost a gel and then making the assembly and holding them in position for the last few minutes. I need to come up with something better; maybe drilling each side of the joint and pinning it with a short piece of brass rod.. I'm still trying to decide the merits of assembling the figure fully before painting. I suspect that it might be something to decide on a case by case basis. In this instance the position of the arquebus makes some of the figure difficult to work on with the paint brush. Possibly a better idea would have been to have added the arms to the torso before painting and added the arquebus at the end. Adding the arquebus (with the attached hands) was a fight. The hands had to be carefully twisted to line up with the arms and then had to be filed to fit. Even so I had to use some putty to build up the wrist and cuff to get a better appearance. The upper arm is still a little awkward but I'm scared to go any further in case I damage something irretrievably. This is where we are now. I need to repaint the hands and cuffs where the putty was added. The arquebus rest has to be added and the base has to be painted and some grass added. Oh and that cat hair needs to be removed. Thank you for looking in, for the likes and the helpful comments Alan

Hi Bob, I sort of fell into this by accident; painting the Nabopolassar figure for a friend who is a professor of Ancient History. I found it thoroughly enjoyable and I've started painting a few more. As with everything there's a lot to learn. I find it very relaxing and absorbing. Its really all about the painting so there are no tiny parts, almost invisible PE and they don't command a lot of space both when building and when displaying them. Alan

Thank you druxey. Yes, the skin is a little pale (especially for a Spaniard) although I am working from the warmer end of the skin tones. I probably allowed too much highlight tone onto the face. The beard does need a little attention too. Thanks for the useful input Alan

I added the model to the base in my usual way with an acrylic rod. I think this now complete. A nice kit and very enjoyable. Thank you all for looking in, for the likes and for the kind comments Alan

Beautiful and neat work alan

Thank you very much Mike. The east European kit companies have some intriguing subjects and I rather overindulged. Most look like short builds but that just moves the problem from too many boxes to too many on display. alan

Thank you Ken. A very enjoyable painting exercise. alan

Thank you very much Yves. I do like submarines. alan

Thank you OC. I find the painting to be very absorbing and time passes quickly. I’m enjoying this far more than I expected alan

Nice. You do great with the 3d printing alan

These are great little things to absorb time. Its so easy to just do a little more, and maybe a little more.... This is moving along rather quickly. I think I might be assembling the pieces tomorrow if I get some time. I added details to the main figure and I like how its coming out. I think I need a lighter red to highlight the bows to make them stand out a little better. Then I started on the head and worked flesh tones and the beard. I added a gloss coat to the helmet and I will add a little black was once the rest of the head is complete. The moustache is a little untidy at this point. I have rather set myself up by enlarging these shots to this level. The actual face is about 1/3 inches in height. Thank you for looking in, the likes and helpful comments Alan

Thanks Jack. I decided to leave well alone but I have a few more of these that feature armour so I will be using the polishing compounds again soon. Alan

After a gloss coat I added a black wash around the detail and then followed up with some dark and light rust washes.. I need to touch up teh propellor but otherwise the submarine is ready for a matte coat and mounting onto the base. Thanks for looking in and all teh likes and comments Alan