Tomculb

The end-of-the-build to do list . . . I finished the lower shroud ratlines. Back when those shrouds were installed I made the decision to defer these ratlines until the running rigging was finished, for fear that the former would get in the way of rigging the latter. That was a mistake. The running rigging made rigging the ratlines more challenging, and I didn’t even think about the lower yard getting in the way of rigging the last several ratlines at the upper end. I found myself wanting to put my face where the end of the studding sail boom was, and to avoid damaging the boom (or my eyes), I put a yellow warning flag made of masking tape at the end of each boom. The forward companionway heading boards are precariously glued to the ship standing on one of their 1\16” edges. To give them a little more security, I glued a short length of narrow gauge wire in a small hole in each piece to act as a reinforcing pin glued into a corresponding hole in the companionway. Unfortunately I didn’t get a picture of the pin, but you should get the idea. The plans show an extension of the footrope (a Flemish horse) at the ends of the lower and topsail yards, with the notation “Optional detail depending upon the period being built.” One of my earlier posts asked if anyone knew what “period” was being referred to, and I got no responses. I simply decided that my model needed this additional detail. The kit comes with a long, thin pendant, and the instructions provide a detailed description of how to make the flag look like it’s blowing in the wind. I decided I just didn’t like the look of the pendant and didn’t even try to include it, but I did string a halyard through a small block at the top of the mast down to the outer belaying pin on the aft port bulwark. I linked a couple of small rings together to roughly simulate clips or shackles that would attach to two corners of any flag. Then I took a couple of wraps around the belaying pin with the lower end of the rope loop. There would be no rope coil here, as the halyard is a loop. Over a period of weeks or months after I glued barrels into the gravel in the bilge, a number of them came loose and fell out, both fore and aft. On the aft end, I glued all the missing barrels back in, filling the gaps in Connie’s toothy grin. At the forward end, I left two barrels out, in order to allow a view of the bottom of the mast and the ends of the bilge pump pipes buried in the gravel. Finally I installed the previously constructed bell on the front of the mast. My FINISHED post, after taking some FINISHED photos, will come along within a few days, maybe sooner.

Thanks Brian. Cleaning up and bending to shape may not be my favorite activity, but I have a lot more confidence doing that than scratch building parts like that. Kudos to you for making your own parts. I don't think FINISHED will be bitter sweet for me; I'm already getting excited for my next build.

Getting awfully close to adding “FINISHED” to the name of this log . . . I’m excited. This post’s project is what the instructions call the “hatchway canopy frame”. In my mind it became the Gilded Birdcage. The Birdcage is built from eight Britannia metal pieces. Typical to these kinds of fittings, there was a lot of flashing to be trimmed off, and they all were bent out of shape to one degree or another. None of which was a problem. There were however some challenges. As can be seen in the picture immediately below, the bottom half of the Birdcage consists of two pairs of fence-like pieces. The other four pieces are arc-like frames which make up the upper half and top of the Birdcage. The bottoms of these upper pieces fit into shallow holes in the tops of the lower piece fence posts. Of each pair of fence pieces, one came with this hole nicely formed, and one came with an extension that needed to be cut off and no formed hole. In the picture below, I have cut off the extension and drilled the hole in one of the four fence posts, but not yet in the other three. Needless to say, drilling the holes in these tiny pieces was a challenge, to say the least. The instructions direct building the Birdcage in the hatchway frame on the model, then removing it for painting before finally gluing it in place. However, the pieces needed a lot of precise bending to get them to fit right, and there was no way my fat thumbs and fingers would have adequate space to do that if the assembly was on the model. So I carefully duplicated in a spare piece of wood the holes that were pre-drilled in the hatchway frame and built the Birdcage off the model. As mentioned before, there are four upper pieces. The lower one of these has a pin which fits through holes in the middle of the pieces above it, as can be seen in the next picture below. The upper piece has a decorative knob on top, with a small hole inside it to take the upper end of the pin from the lower piece. That hole had to be drilled as it was not drilled in the upper piece as supplied. The hole after I drilled it can be sort of seen in the second picture below, which is unfortunately not well focused. The Birdcage on the real ship appears to be unfinished brass. I bought a couple of bottles of Vallejo paint (a brand I haven’t used before), color-labeled Brass and Old Gold. In the bottle Brass looked like what I wanted, and that is what I painted the Birdcage with. It fits tightly in most of the holes in the hatchway frame (two of the holes were simply out of line), and I did not feel a need to glue it in place. Painted and installed on the model, it’s a bit bright for my taste (thus the Gilded Birdcage), and I thought about pulling it off and repainting it with Old Gold. But I fear that may result in something that looks more like Drab Mud, so I think I will leave it as is. 😊 I now have a list of about a dozen things that need attention before I can truly call this build finished. Those will be the subject of my next post.

About a year ago I assembled one of two hammock rails. After gluing the hammock rail stanchions onto the previously painted cap rails, I then cut a piece of netting to the appropriate size, and led some thread through the netting and the eyes at the tops of the stanchions. I then ran another piece of thread through the bottom of the netting and tied it to the bottoms of the stanchions. None of this was easy to do, it took many hours, and I was not happy with the result. Strike one. I carefully stored this one away and left for another day the assembly of the other hammock rail. Well, another day has come. This time I had learned something about working with this netting material, from having put together the back rail on the fighting top. Coating the netting with diluted white glue makes it stiffer, easier to cut, and easier (but still not easy) to work with. One detail I learned is that you need to have some small pieces of paper towel handy to blot away excess glue; otherwise you end up with unsightly white flakes in some of the netting. This time I threaded the netting with thin wire rather than thread . . . wire which despite my fears to the contrary, I was able to straighten pretty well. The result was better than my effort from a year ago, but I was still left with an unsightly upper edge of netting . . . a bunch of exposed diamonds I found almost impossible to cut away cleanly without cutting the diamonds I had so carefully threaded the wire through. Strike two. My third effort was much better; if not a home run, at least good for extra bases. This time I used wood glue to glue a 1/32 x 1/16 strip of wood to the top edge of a cut strip of netting. I did this on top of wax paper, which peeled away pretty cleanly when the glue was still a little bit tacky. That small strip of wood nicely hides the upper edge of the netting. I then carefully twisted each stanchion so that the eye at the top ran fore and aft rather than athwartships. Then I put a tiny drop of wood glue in each eye, and glued the wood strip and netting to the outside of the stanchions. To be able to apply some pressure while the glue dried, I snuggly fit a strip of wood into the space between the inner and outer stanchions and slipped a strip of wax paper between the stanchions and that strip. I should have taken some pictures along the way but didn’t. In any event, the end result looked much better than my previous efforts. I did not do anything with the lower edge of the netting; it simply lies nicely against the edge of the cap rail, without any glue. Since it is black on black, from viewing distance the netting is almost invisible lying against the cap rail (or maybe it’s just my eyes). The Constitution as she exists today, and presumably previous iterations, has cable running through the top of the netting. But in this case I am happy to sacrifice some historical accuracy for something that leads to a better looking model.

Nic, that Wyoming is one spectacular model. I wonder how it got its name. I've driven through Wyoming a number of times, and I've never seen a maritime museum there. I understand it's maritime history is pretty scant. 🙂 Also, nice work on the new website.

The rope coils project began with making a jig, inspired by one that is well explained and photographed on the Crafty Sailor website. I got ambitious and made one on which I could put together 5 coils at a time. Unfortunately they were too close together, and while making one coil I found myself snagging the threat on the posts for the neighboring coils. So I pulled the posts for two of them out and turned it into a 3 coil jig. The posts were cut from a large paper clip. I cut slits in the base to secure the end of the rigging thread, but those didn’t hold well at all. Clipping a mini-clothespin to the end worked a lot better. I then wrapped two coils around the vertical posts, then wrapped the third coil around the vertical posts at the top of the coil, and the final two coils around both vertical posts. I then took two or three wraps around the coils and secured it with a half hitch at the end. For some reason the latter wraps proved to be more difficult than I expected, and for the most part they don’t have a consistent look from coil to coil. As a young adult sailor some decades ago I easily coiled thousands of lines over the years, but rope and rigging thread just don’t behave the same way. Also, getting the coils to hang naturally (vertically) was sometimes problematic. Unfortunately I didn’t take any photos of the numerous odd ways I leaned things against the coils to get them to hang vertically, soaking the loop around the belaying pin with diluted white glue and letting it dry. There were two empty belaying pins on the athwartships part of the fife rail, so I hung a couple of extra coils on them. I also hung coils on the cleats on the mast I secured the trusses with. And now some pictures . . . Next project is completing the hammock netting and rails I started but never finished maybe a year or so ago.

In addition to the usual slow down in the shipyard during holiday season, this year I’m also distracted by the World Cup (sad day yesterday for English fans), and locally I have already used my snowblower more this year than the last two or three put together. And winter is still 10 days away! I did not build and install the aft guard rail on the fighting top when instructed, figuring it would get in the way of stringing the running rigging, and I think that was a good decision, although the rigging now made the job of installing the built rail a little more challenging. The instructions suggest putting the netting material on top of wax paper and giving it a coat of diluted white school glue, then pressing the aft frame against the wet glue. I was afraid the wax paper would be difficult to remove once the glue dried, and I took a different approach. I laid one frame on top of wax paper (to protect the surface below), then stretched the netting across that frame, and then gave everything a good coat of glue. When that was dry, I glued the other frame on top of the first frame with the netting sandwiched in between. That worked pretty well. The reason I wanted the netting coated with diluted white glue was to stiffen it and eliminate the creases in the netting material (since it was folded as supplied). With a new sharp blade in my knife, I cut away the excess netting. The material cuts much more cleanly when it has been stiffened with glue, but after cutting there was still a bit of stubble left. I applied another coat of glue around the frame, then a coat of pain, and then gave it another cut. The result was not as clean as I had hoped, but from any reasonable viewing distance it looks pretty good. A challenge I had not anticipated was that the aft deadeyes, solidly glued in place months ago on the fighting top deck, get in the way of the assembled guard rail. I had to do some cutting and shaving at each end of the guard rail base and the outer stanchion of the rail so that the rail would fit. Nevertheless the base sticks out beyond the aft edge of the deck, rather than being flush with it, but that was the best I could do. I am also getting started with the lower ratlines, another project I did not do when directed in the instructions, thinking they would get in the way of the stringing of running rigging. In retrospect I’m not sure that was a good decision, but rigging the ratlines is nevertheless progressing satisfactorily. Next post will cover rope coils.

Thank you Tim. That's very kind of you. But what I am able to bring to the conversation wouldn't be possible without the valuable contributions of so many who are better informed or more skilled than I am. Most recently that would be Henry (popeye2sea). The community created by these forums is incredible, and I owe a big thank you to all who have made it the great resource that it is.

The lower end of each truss is fixed to the mast at a fairlead glued to the back side of the lower mast while building it. Each line has an eye at the end through which the other line passes through. The kit supplies britannia metal circular thimbles for each eye, but a smaller, thinner, tear-shaped eye would probably be more accurate. Such a fitting is not supplied and would probably be too small to work with. I simply seized an eye, without a fitting, at the end of each line. A couple of weeks ago there was an exchange of posts in which popeye2sea pointed out that the way the instructions explain the trusses is not correct. At the time I didn’t mention this, but I had already rigged the mast end of the trusses as instructed; that is, each line ran through the other line’s eye immediately after leaving the fairlead. It wasn’t difficult to undo what I had done and rerig it correctly; that is, each line left the fairlead, went forward to wrap around the yard, then went aft again to run through the eye in the other line, then up through the open space in the fighting top. Above the fighting top, each line ends with a single block, to which is attached another line. That line becomes part of a tackle, going up to a double block secured to an eyebolt under the mast cap, back down to the single block, up to the double block, and down to a cleat previously installed in the deck of the fighting top. At least in my case, that cleat was installed with no expectation that anything would be belayed to it. It is tiny, flimsy and hard to get to. I decided the line could be belayed just as plausibly to a cleat attached to the topmast. Two pairs of laser cut cleats were glued to the fighting top, but a third pair was left unused, and I carefully glued them to the sides of the mast. What concern I had about these cleats being flimsy was proved justified, as both broke when I tried to belay the lines to them. They are cut from 1/32” thick stock, the grain runs across the tiny throat of each one, they both broke there. So I pried the remaining cleat bases off the mast and built new, heftier cleats from 1/16” square stock. The resulting cleats are too big for scale and as can be seen in the photo below, I didn’t get the throat centered on one of them (later corrected), but such flaws should be largely hidden by a belay and a rope coil. Now on to a fairly lengthy list of things I didn’t do earlier in the build . . . such as lower ratlines, fighting top railing, hammock rails, etc. The end is in sight!

Thanks Brian. I too frequently dip the end of a thread into some CA, but was different here was the length of thread coated in CA. Usually I dip no more than half an inch or so. Your Cairo build is magnificent.

You're right Bob, the rigging gets complicated and crowded. As I've said before, I'm glad I'm doing only one mast. I started rigging the jeers and the truss more or less at the same time, trying to figure out which one would get in the way of the other the most, and leaving that tackle for last. That led me to finishing the jeers first, which will be the subject of this post. Each jeer is a pair of triple blocks, one lashed to the top of the yard, the other just above it, hanging from the mast. I made a pair of lanyards for the latter, by first tying a block to the middle of about 8 inches of thread. I then served the two lengths of thread together, for about an inch above the block. Some may have noticed that I did not serve any of the shrouds where they wrap around the mast. I don’t have a serving machine, and carefully wrapping thin thread around a length of thicker thread at least a couple of dozen times seemed incredibly difficult and tedious. But trying it on these lanyards was a lot easier than I expected. I secured each end with a clove hitch, then gave each serving a healthy dose of diluted white glue. The next challenge was threading the line through each pair of blocks. Things are pretty crowded where the mast and yard come together, and my attempts to get my thumb and fingers in there all failed. What worked was creating a long “needle” with a dose of thin CA on about 2½ inches of the thread to be rigged, stretched straight between a couple of mini clamps. I left about an inch at the end of the thread unglued, so it wouldn’t be glued to the clamp, then cut that end off. The needle enabled me to get the thread through the blocks from the aft side, and it worked! I hung each lanyard loosely around the mast, not tying it until I had the block rigged to its counterpart. They can be seen crossing each other in the second picture below. Finally securing them after the blocks were rigged made it easier to adjust the distance between the blocks, and for whatever reason I rigged the first pair (left in the picture below) about half an inch apart. I think that may have been a mistake, as they would have been better aligned if they had been rigged closer together, as shown on the plans. Especially the blocks on the right don’t line up very well. Finally when I brought the ends of the lines down to the fife rail, they crossed behind the already installed running rigging, running from the upper block just forward of the mast to the aft end of the fife rail. To avoid rubbing up against those other lines, I brought these lines down to the back side of, and under, the rail. In the picture of the blocks above, you can see that I have wrapped the pair of trusses around the yard. That and the rigging of the truss tackles will be the subject of my next post.

That's a big help. Thanks I need to make my way to Boston one of these days. I built Revel's plastic version of the Constitution more than 35 years ago, and now I'm nearing completion of this cross-section (a much more rewarding build), and while I saw the real thing across the harbor a long time ago, I've never been aboard her.

As I mentioned before, the construction of the lower yard is pretty much the same as the topsail yard, just bigger. The only other differences are a longer batten on the aft side of the yard, cleats attached to the forward side (not yet glued in place in the photo below), and a ring in the middle which will be the lower part of the preventer sling. The preventer sling hangs over the top of the mast cap and dangles just above the yard (Connie’s necklace). After hanging the preventer sling, I glued the yard in place with a locator pin. I then rigged the lifts and what I am now calling the studding boom outhauls, then lashed together the two parts of the preventer sling. The two triple blocks I secured onto the yard before gluing it to the mast are ready for the rigging of the jeers.

Thanks again Henry. For some reason your description of the truss rigging didn't sink in the first time, compounded by the fact that my understanding of "cleat" has been limited to a squat T-shaped thing you tie a line to. But I see now that it can also mean the enclosure of a sheave, or without the sheave, the enclosures on the forward side of the yard that locate the trusses close to the yard as they wrap around it. In any event, you describe each truss passing through the thimble of the other truss after it has gone forward to wrap around the yard and then comes aft again. That makes more sense, since that means both parts of the truss are pulling the yard into the mast, rather than having one part pulling on it diagonally upward as shown in the plans. Here is how the instructions show the trusses passing through the thimbles on the aft side of the mast, before they have wrapped around the yard. I'm learning a lot . . .

Thanks Henry for your comments on terminology. That’s very helpful. “Jeers” is a term I was not familiar with, but looking at Biddlecombe, that’s exactly what is in blue, as you pointed out. The book defines jeers as “Tackles by which the lower yard of a ship are hoisted along the mast to their usual station, or lowered from thence . . . “. As you described them, the truss and the preventer sling appear to be correctly labeled as I used them, but not as used in the instructions. I’m not sure what you mean by the “cleat with the sheave on the trestle trees”. As shown on the plans, there is a sheave on the trestle trees, but no cleat there. The only cleat the trusses encounter is in the top. The only sheaves are the ones attached to the trestle trees, and it seems to me they need to be used to properly direct the truss pendants to the blocks hanging from the mast cap. Am I missing something? Two more terminology issues. First, I have at various times used the term “jig” to refer to a block and tackle assembly, but only because that is the term used in the instructions. I don’t recall seeing that word used that way before. The term I would be inclined to use is “tackle”. Second, the line that is pulled to extend the studding sail boom outward is referred to in the instructions as a “halyard”, but previously I had never seen that word used for anything other than a line that pulls something vertically (e.g. a sail or a yard). I would be more inclined to use the word “studding boom outhaul” or “studding boom outhaul tackle.” I welcome your (or anyone else’s) comments, and thanks again for your insight.

Construction of the main (or lower) yard is basically the same as the topsail yard, only larger (52 eyebolts for the jackstay!). And rigging of the lifts and studding sail booms is the same (and straightforward). But things really get complicated when it comes to the preventer sling(s) and trusses. I am just about ready to attach the yard to the mast and then start on its rigging. Over the last few weeks when I’ve had some down time (usually waiting for something to dry), I have studied the plans (repeatedly) and read the instructions (probably only twice) trying to figure out exactly what is supposed to happen here. I think I’ve figured it out. I took a picture of the plans’ detailed depiction of the rigging which holds the yard to the mast and used some colored pencils to differentiate the three elements of this rigging. The instructions refer to two preventer slings and a truss, but I think it would be more accurate to label two of them as trusses with just one preventer sling. I have a copy of The Art of Rigging by George Biddlecombe, first published about 100 years ago, and he defines “preventer” as a rope “employed sometimes to support, or answer the purpose of, another that has a great strain upon it, or is injured . . .”. My translation is that it is somewhat analogous to a seat belt; that is, it doesn’t do anything unless something bad happens. If I’m right about that, there is only one preventer sling, and that is the standing rigging (instructions say use black thread) shown in green in the picture of the plans above. Biddlecombe defines “truss” as “a rope employed to confine and slacken the lower yards to or from their respective masts.” That sounds like adjustable running rigging to me, and the instructions say use beige thread for these. There are two pairs, one shown in red above and the other in blue. The red ones are for pulling the yard against the mast, and I think of them as horizontal trusses. The other pair is for adjusting the yard up and down, and I think of them as horizontal, or perhaps even halyard, trusses. Those are shown in blue. The one thing that is not made clear above are the ends of what I have called the horizontal trusses (in red), where they attach to the aft side of the mast. There is a good picture on the top right side of page 87 of the instructions that provides some clarity. Basically each line passes through a hole in the fairlead already installed on the mast back there, then through an eye at the bitter end of the other line, then forward to take a loop around the yard, then up through the sheave on the side of a trestle tree, and on up to the jig attached to the underside of the mast cap. Once it leaves the yard, what is shown on the plans is pretty clear. I’ll post more details and pictures as I install this rigging.

A question for you Connie history buffs as I near completion of my build of the main (or lower) yard . . . The plans show Flemish horses (extensions of the foot rope) out at the ends of the main and topsail yards, with the notation "Optional detail based on period being built." Do any of you know what period of history Flemish horses were common? I assumed that had something to do with studding sail booms, since those booms would be hard to reach without a Flemish horse. But the plans show the topgallant yard with studding sail booms and no Flemish horse, and the real Constitution (as of the date of Google Maps videoing) has Flemish horses and no studding sail booms. Some of you have a lot more insight as to issues like this than I do. Thanks

I too built RC planes a lifetime ago (only 3 of them), and since they were gliders built almost entirely with balsa, I used CA almost exclusively, mostly thin. With ship models I use Titebond almost exclusively. I use thin CA to stiffen the ends of threads so I can get them through blocks, medium CA where metal is involved (eg gluing eyebolts into holes in the wood), and diluted white glue to secure knots in rigging. The thing I like about Titebond and wood is that it is almost immediately tacky, but you have some time to move things around before it sets. Also cleanup is easy if you get to it in time. And while its strength is plenty adequate, I have been able to pull a piece off after the glue sets to correct a mistake (eg pulling some planking off a POB hull) without pulling off a lot of the other piece with it.

I ended my last post saying the topsail yard would be just like the topgallant yard, only bigger. Yes it’s definitely bigger, but there are some differences as well. As mentioned in a post back in August, the lower two yards are supposed to be constructed from two dowels, separated by a square piece to be shaped to an octagon in cross section. Then battens are to be glued to the flat parts of the octagon section. I found it easier to make the entire topsail yard out of a single dowel, tapered at both ends and leaving the center section round, not octagonal. As can kind of be seen in the picture below, I painted the middle section black before attaching the battens, because the latter fit so closely together I wasn’t sure I could get black paint into the tiny gaps between them. Eventually almost the entire yard is painted black, unlike the yards above which are entirely stained. Studding sail booms: The end guards and end guard rings (terms used in the instructions but not the plans) are two pieces at each end. Both pieces need to be trimmed after gluing together. The end guard is basically a cage that is slipped onto the end of the yard. Rather than taper the yard ends enough to allow that to happen, I tapered them enough to be flush with the outside of the cage/guard, then cut a smaller round section just thin and long enough to fit inside, as can be seen in the picture above. I think the assembly would have looked better if the guard rings had been cast the same as the topgallant yard rings and if the guards had a hole in them through which the stem of the ring would pass, into a hole drilled into the end of the studding sail booms. This yard, and this yard alone, has what is identified as a “coxcomb” glued to the top of the yard, about half an inch in from each end. I don’t know what a coxcomb is or what the other yards don’t have them, but here I did as I was told. Consistent with everything else about this yard, the plans show the footropes running through stanchions that are somewhat longer than those found on the upper two yards. That doesn’t make sense in my mind, as the men who stood on this yard’s footropes weren’t any taller than the men who stood on the footropes higher up. I made these stanchions the same length as those above. As is discussed in further detail below, the topsail yard is supposed to have two halyards, each one leading to either side of the hull, not just a single halyard leading to the starboard side as is the case with the royal and topgallant yard halyards. The locating pin shown below is dry fit and was replaced with a shorter one before installation on the mast. Halyard(s): I viewed the plans as showing a two-ended halyard wrapped around the mast at its midpoint. Seemed pretty obvious to me that running rigging wrapped around a mast wasn’t going to “run” very well. Reading the instructions, what’s contemplated is two halyards, each ending with a clove hitch around the mast. But after leaving the mast, each halyard passes through a double block on the yard, then passes over the top of the forward cross tree, then aft to a single block attached to either side of the mast, then down to the jig which secures it to the hull. How this running rigging is supposed to “run”, and change direction by 90°, when it passes over the edge of the cross tree under tension, is beyond me. So since I was going to ignore both the plans and instructions to remedy that problem anyway, I decided to turn it into a double ended halyard (by hanging a single block on the front of the mast). After passing through the double block on the yard, each halyard runs below the crosstrees and through a single block hanging below and between the middle and aft crosstrees. Finally and a little late now, I wish I had made the halyard jigs shorter. The yards are displayed in their raised position, which would mean that most of the line in each jig would be pulled in and the two ends of the jigs would be close together. As rigged (which is consistent with the plans), to bring the yards down to their lowered positions (shown faintly on the plans as an alternative), the upper ends of the jigs would end up tucked up close beneath the fighting top. I doubt that would be the case on the real ship.

Thank you Brian and Tom. Repeatedly throughout this build I've thought how grateful I am that I'm building a cross section and not the full Connie. I don't think I'd have the patience to do what I'm doing three times over. 😱

Almost a month since my last progress posting. Where did the time go! Installing and rigging the topgallant yard was almost the same as the royal yard, but with the addition of the studding sail boom halyards and additional purchase on the lifts and boom halyard. First I needed to seize a number of blocks in place. There is a single block seized on the upper side of the yard outside each pair of chocks (for a total of two, not four as stated in the instructions), for the lifts. Then for the studding boom halyards, a single block on the underside just inside each pair chocks, and a single block on the underside about 5/8” out from each side of the center of the yard. Finally for the topgallant halyard, a single block is seized to a sling which wraps around the middle of the yard. The instructions show the halyard seized to this block, needing a double block above it on the mast, but the plans (which I followed) show the halyard seized to the mast block, resulting in a tackle with two single blocks. Hooks need to be seized on the end of two long pieces of thread which will be the studding boom halyards. The hooks are attached to the eyebolts previously installed at the inner end of each boom, and the thread then gets led through the lower blocks near each end of the yard, then through the blocks near the center of the yard, and coiled for now. Finally one end of the parrel can be tied to one of the eyebolts sticking out of the back of the yard yoke. A pair of single blocks for the lifts need to be seized to each side of the mast just above the shroud loops wrapping around the mast, above the topgallant cross trees. A long piece of thread needs to be seized to each such block. The yard halyard is seized to a block, which in turn is supposed to be attached to a sling which secures it to the forward side of the mast, but somehow mine turned out to be just another seizing. As mentioned above, I used a single block here. The lifts and halyard can be coiled to await attachment of the yard to the mast. Next was gluing the yard to the mast, using the location pin at the back of the yard and a hole I had previously drilled in the front of the mast. I then secured the loose end of the parrel to the open eyebolt in the yoke. Then came the fun of releasing the coils of rope, one by one, leading the line down through the standing rigging to belaying pins at deck level. . . a relatively easy step which leads to satisfyingly significant progress. Comments on doing this: The royal yard lifts ran easily from the blocks on either side of the mast, behind the topgallant and topsail crosstrees, through the aft end of the open spaces in the fighting top, behind the futtock shrouds, without interference all the way down to the aft side of the fife rail. Here I made a mistake, belaying the port lift line to the second pin in from the end rather than the third pin in. As discussed below, I didn’t not correct the error. The royal yard halyard ran from its block on the mast, around the starboard side of the mast, aft of both sets of cross trees, aft and outside the fighting top. It then went down to where it was seized to the double block which formed part of the jig tackle, the other end of which was hooked to the outer eyebolt attached to the aft end of the starboard channel. The topgallant studding sail boom halyards ran from their blocks on the yard, down just outside the forward topsail crosstrees, through the middle of the spaces on either side of the fighting top, ahead of the futtock shrouds, and down to the fore and aft parts of the fife rail. The topgallant lifts ran from their blocks on either side of the mast, behind the topsail crosstrees, through the aft end of the open spaces in the fighting top and inside the royal lifts, and on down to the aft side of the fife rail where they were belayed to the pins just inside where the royal lifts were belays. The fact that the lifts on the port side were belayed one pin farther out than the lifts on the starboard side caused no problems, and I decided this was an error not worth correcting. The topgallant yard halyard ran parallel to the royal yard halyard down to its jig tackle. In hooking the tackle to its eyebolt in the starboard channel, the main part of this tackle ran between the main part of the royal tackle and the tail end of the royal tackle belayed inside the bulwark. On to the topsail yard. More of the same . . . only bigger.

Welcome Brian and thank you. I hope you find my log to be helpful. Although I have found this build to be more challenging than expected, it's been really rewarding, and I have enjoyed it immensely. I hope you have a similar experience.

Thanks for the kind words Tim. Too often I look at a close up photo of my work and see nothing but flaws. I guess we all have some tendency to be hard on ourselves.😀

I have finished the ratlines on the topmast shrouds. I still need to add sheer poles above the deadeyes. As I neared the top, the challenge was threading and tying the ratlines where the shrouds were so close together. On the final one at the top, I omitted the clove hitches on the shrouds on either side of the middle one, to avoid ending up with nothing more than shoulder to shoulder knots. There should probably be one more ratline in the gap between the top one and the futtock stave, but as it is things are awfully crowded there. I’m hoping the lower ratlines are a little easier to do than these were. No second set of shrouds immediately behind the ones with the ratlines, and a little more space to work with at the top.

Rigging and installing the royal yard was simple and straightforward. I generally enjoy working on running rigging more than standing rigging. As suggested in the instructions, I installed the rigging on the yard before gluing the yard to the mast. The lifts run from each end of the yard up to small blocks tied to either side of the mast at the circular shoulder, then down to the pin rail where they are belayed. The halyard is looped through the yoke and around the middle of the yard, up to the remaining small block on the mast, and down the starboard side to a block and tackle to be hooked onto an eyebolt installed at the aft end of the starboard channel. Some comments on the halyards: The royal, topgallant and topsail yard halyards all end similarly, except that the topsail yard halyard has two ends, the other end attaching to a similar arrangement on the port side. The instructions refer to the halyard block and tackles as “jig tackles”. The instructions are a little confusing here. Consecutive paragraphs, both beginning with drilling holes and installing three eyebolts in the aft end of the starboard channel (one in the port channel), then going on to describe partially overlapping, partially different, parts of the royal yards running rigging. Each jig tackle is the same. A hook is stropped to one end of a single block (incorrectly referred to as a double block in the instructions), and the jig tackle line is seized to the other end of the block. The line then runs up to a double block seized to the end of the halyard, about 5 inches above the channel. The line runs through that double block, down to the block with the hook, back up to the double block, and then down to the pin rail on the starboard inner bulwark, where it is belayed. Finally, the instructions say to use beige thread for the parallel, but I don’t think of that as running rigging. I used dark brown thread, the same thread I used to lash shroud deadeyes together (“adjustable standing rigging”). Here are more pictures. I recently came across a discussion on these boards about belaying (which I can't find now). A convincing argument is made that repeated figure 8 wraps around the pin are not necessary and not historically accurate. Rather, as I have done in the photos above, make one loop around the bottom of the pin under the fife rail, and a second one above, the latter being looped under itself, or belayed. On a real ship, the line can be quickly unbelayed if adjustments need to be made in a hurry, and on a model this two loop belay is quick and easy to do. Hopefully the tails I left in the final photo above will be hidden by the coils that will be installed later.