el cid

I've completed my spreadsheet tally of 879 blocks (standing and running rigging, less those in the boats) as at this time I believe I will include furled sails.
This includes what we normally think of a blocks, plus parrels, hearts and dead eyes.
My reference is Steels Rigging Tables for a 74 gun ship.
 
I've considered all sizes from 5" to 56" and the incremental differences at 1:64 scale. As it will likely be difficult to finish sanding a block shape to "exact scale" I believe I would group them so three consecutive sizes (5", 6" , 7") would be one size block (6") as the difference at 1:64 scale is extremely minimal.  I would aim for the middle in any one group and have made a note to remind me of this.  I just have to remember where the note is... or that there is a note!
 
This gives me 2 sizes of hearts (16" and 25") , 10 sizes of blocks (6", 9", 12", 15", 18", 21", 25", 28", 38" and 56") and 3 sizes of dead eyes (7-1/2", 11" and 17").
 
I go to get my other eye done this Friday, and three or four weeks later I will be able to go back down to my shop and get working on the square frames, and some blocks for the two yards I've made for the bowsprit and jib boom masts.

Todays pic. 
On the Banks after Cod.
w/c 19” x 11”

Sail Training Schooners ,Malcolm Millar and Sir Winston Churchill passing the Bass Rock. w/c 16” X 11”

This afternoon's painting “Haven't seen a U Boat around here, have you”? ML and schooner off the east coast of Canada. w/c 16” X 11”

good evening everyone
 
Day 21 last of the cants
 
been a quite week, lots of things happening, and not a lot of boat building, but today the last of the stern cants were put in, that leave the hawse timbers and stern timbers, 
 
Parts 2 and 3 arrived and i will show photos at a later date 

good evening everyome
 
Day 19 full frames and cants
 
i delayed putting the cants in for as long as possible, they seamed quite difficult, so best to leave them, but the time had to come
 
i may have mentioned it previously. that there are laser etched lines on a lot of the ribs, these provide a rough fairing line, 

so the same goes for the cants, also there is a angle template provided for each numbered cant to help achieve the correct angle, this template is to set up the bench sander at the correct angle, mine kept moving so i devised my own answer by gluing the template to the cant and then sanding to the correct line, it worked


having done that, i then found i did not have enough room to get access to pin the cants, 
so
i removed the top level of the jig
glued starboard cants 2 to 7 in position, when the glue set, i removed the hull from the frame to pin, this will be repeated on the stbd side

 
 




the hull drops back into the jig quite easy, im not sure how difficult its going to be to put the top level back on

 
 

ML and Corvette stand by a surrendering U boat off the Canadian Atlantic coast w/c 16.5” X 11.75

Capture and sinking of U744 LtoR HMCS StCatherines  HMS Icarus  U477  HMCS Chilliwack 
watercolour 16.5“ X 11.75”

I was born and brought up in Leith, and lived there for a while after the Navy. I was in the Fire Service for three years then transferred to Fife so the kids could grow up out of the city. Still in Fife and love it.
Jim

Thanks for the replies.
With respect to figures - I have been investigating several online figure creators that allow you to download an .stl file for 3D printing. Most of these are geared toward fantasy and model railroad figures and kind of miss out on 18th and early 19th century maritime figures that I'm interested in.  I managed to make a "navy-like" officer in Hero Forge (heroforge.com).  The process is fairly straight forward - you  pick and choose pre-made bodies, parts, clothes, poses to assemble a figure.  You can customise the pose and, when you're ready, you pay $7.99 (US) to download the .stl file.  You can actually have them print the figure for you for $19.99.  They state it is roughly 1:48 scale. (25mm or 30mm). 

 
I bought the download (emailed to me in maybe 30 minutes) and opened it in ChituBox software (free) in order to create a file for my Elegoo Mars resin printer.  i added supports (easy) to make sure that the model prints correctly.

There are many types and colours of resins you can use for the printing. I purchased a standard grey UV-sensitive resin which must be cleaned in 100% ethanol/isopropanol and, since my workshop is next to my furnace, I quickly purchased a water-washable resin.  (Winter is coming and I don't want to wash parts in 100% alcohol outdoors when it's -25C!)  Here are the results using the two resins:

Back to the ChituBox software to scale that figure to 1/92.  I'll print that size shortly and get back to you folks.

Clear skies!
Gabe
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

1:48 Le Coureur 1776
CAF Model
Catalogue # SSL07
Available directly from CAF Model for $342USD plus shipping
 

 
Le Coureur (1778) was a French lugger that Jacques and Daniel Denys built at Dunkirk and launched on 8 May 1776. HMS Alert, under the command of Lieutenant William George Fairfax, engaged and captured her on 17 June 1778, in advance of the declaration of war. In the engagement, Coureur, under the command of Enseigne de Rosily, had five men killed and seven wounded out of her crew of 50. Alert had four men wounded, two mortally. The British took Coureur into the Royal Navy under her existing name, as HMS Coureur. She was under the command of Lieutenant Christopher Major on 21 June 1780 when two American privateers, the Fortune and the Griffin, captured her outside Bonavista Bay after an action that cost her three men killed and four wounded. The Americans put Major and 30 of his men aboard Griffin, which fell prey the next day to HMS Fairy.
Wikipedia
 
The kit
Le Coureur is split into two kits, Parts 1 & 2. To make things a little easier to understand here, this article will look at the contents of each individual box. Each box is a shallow, corrugated affair with a lid flap and folding edge with tabs that lock everything closed. Each box is also very full of material, so much so that when removing items to review, I had the devil’s own work in trying to get it all back in there! Still, that’s certainly nothing to complain about. Instruction manuals are nicely printed and in clear plastic sleeves, and the plans and photo-etch are also nicely packaged. All parts are also sheathed in a sealed plastic covering to stop anything moving about in transit. In the main photo, please ignore the inclusion of the Salamandre cutter. This is separate and will be reviewed soon.
 
Pack 1

 


There are items within Pack 1 which pertain to Pack 2, such as side view plans with the interior, photo-etch etc. but for the sake of this article, we’ll look at them here as this is where they were found. Pack 1 is essentially a kit which produces the building cradle and the hull framing/keel etc. That’s it. So, you won’t find any embellishments, cannon or other fittings in here. 
 

 

 

 

 
What you do get are numerous ply frames that build the cradle, complete with a side plan engraved on one side, plus twelve panels of laser-cut cherry parts. This looks very easy to build and of course provides all positive locations for the keel, frames and stern timbers. CAF recommend the cradle base parts are screwed down onto a plat surface. I’ll use some high quality blockboard when my time comes, as this was excellent for the flying models I used to build, many moons ago.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The latter are produced with rounded edges, and I think this is because they needed to be able to flip the parts over to add the engraving to the opposite side, plus some CNC machining……yes, CNC on laser-cut sheets! I know it’s the first time I’ve ever encountered it. As far as the engravings go, these frame parts really do require it as they mark out the bevel for this clinker-planked hull. That’s why some sheets have the engraving on the reverse too. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
One thing you will see on the reverse is some heat scorching. This varies from sheet to sheet, but the one I show here is the worst of them. These parts will need to first be bevelled to the engraved lines before removing the char as we don’t want to lose the engravings by simply sanding the whole sheet first. There doesn’t appear to be any loss of surface material with this, so it should clean up just fine.Each panel of parts is clearly numbered, and the part numbers are referenced with a map of the panels that’s provided in the manual for Pack 1. So, you will have a part on panel 2, for example, shown as 02-8-a for part 8a. Very simple.
 

 
All frames are constructed on the series of drawings which are supplied on the rolled-up sheets. As these frames are built from parts on top of parts, the drawings also show where the overlaying frame elements sit, and you’ll need a metal setsquare to confirm things before you commit to glue. All parts will also need to be bevelled before any frame construction.
 
Some parts panels, as mentioned, also have some CNC machining. This is to create things like the rabbet on the keel, and the bevel for deadwood bearding line. The machining itself will need to be cleaned up to smooth it out, but the majority of the material is already removed for you, so just the cosmetics will be required. 
 

 

 

 
Taking of CNC machining, CAF also supply some stern parts which are fully machine-shaped. These just need cutting from the blocks they are a part of, and then cleaning up. As these are naturally verry complex shapes, it’s nice to see these prefabricated for the modeller.
 

 

 
Also in this pack, but for use with Pack 2 are two photo-etch frets, produced in brass. The larger one contains everything you would imagine you need, such as hinges, stove parts etc. An acetate sheet is included for glazing the stern windows.
 

 
 
 
 
Pack 2

 

 

 


This box is identical in size to that for Pack 1, and again, contains that much material that you’ll actually struggle to put it all back properly! All items, including fittings boxes, are wrapped in a single covering of clear film. Included here are three sheets of ply, four sheets of maple (deck), and over 35 sheets of cherry wood. Ply parts are included to modify the building jig as your model progresses, and also for a display stand, although I would be sorely tempted to use the parts as templates and build a display cradle from a more suitable material.
 

 

 
The decks are supplied as individual planks, laser cut into the maple sheets, and in the layout order in which you will install them. That’s a nice touch. I expect the laser char between them could be a good caulk representation, but I’d need to test that first.
 

 

 
When it comes to planking, CAF supply the materials to complete the whole hull interior and exterior. The exterior is clinker, and all planks are provided as laser-cut parts over a good many of the included sheets. The instructions clearly show how this much be approached. The tricky internal planks are a godsend, especially with the taper that’s required, so the inclusion of those is also very welcome.

 

 

 
CAF’s approach to other planked areas also follows that of the decks, where a specific area is laser cut in the order of application. It’s a no-brainer! Other parts, where applicable, are also engraved with bevel lines.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Not all parts are laser cut. Three parts panels are CNC cut. These also include machined notches, and they appear to be deck beams. 
 

 
 
 
There are TWO fittings boxes with Le Coureur, and they are brimming with parts.

 
The first I look at contains pins, rings, chains, lead sheeting, rigging blocks, leather, cord, clay stove parts, and a myriad of machined wooden items. First of all, the rigging blocks are machined from a dark timber and are supplied in chains that you need to cut up and clean the block ends. The machined wooden parts include the capstan and hawse, stern windows and stern embellishments. Some of the latter looks a little rough when photographed, but actually looks perfectly fine to the eye. Some very fine sanding sticks could be used to tickle anything you aren’t too happy with. To remove these fragile parts, you need to grind the backs of them over some medium abrasive paper, and they will be released.
 

 

 

 

 

 
The second parts box contains numerous metal fittings. I’m not sure if these are brass or bronze, but the casting is excellent. The cannon emblems are very nice, but I was unable to get a clear pic on the bare metal. Other metal parts include anchors, hooks, triangular eyelets, hinges etc.
 

 

 

 

 
Also in this box are various spools of rigging cord, and these also look very good quality. 
 

 
I was lucky enough to receive the Le Coureur nameplate, carved in pear wood, as part of their initial free gift promotion. This isn’t now included, but is available from CAF for $15. 
 

 
Brass wire is supplied on a wooden spool.
 

 
A bundle of strip wood and dowel is included and is of high quality. Lengths are identified for size. 
 

 
Sail cloth is also included, but you will need to make these yourself using the plans as reference.
 
 
 
Manuals


The manuals are very good, with English that is certainly easy enough to understand (having been proof-read and corrected by our very own Kerry Jang), and especially in context with the illustrations which have coloured elements to show what’s happening. The Pack 1’s 15-page manual focuses solely on the construction of the building cradle, preparation and assembly of the frames, and of course the basic building of the hull. Hull construction ends with the fitting of the keelson, and with the skeleton still within the building cradle.
 

 

 
The manual supplied with Pack 2 is a thicker publication, with 50 pages. Here we see the external planking, interior of the hull being fitted out with interior planking, interior bulkheads for the various compartments, floor, cabinets, sleeping berths, stove etc. The hull is indeed fully detailed within. This model is also fully masted and rigged and this is all shown in superb detail, rope by rope, rigging block by rigging block. As with the previous manual, you will need to cross identify each part with the parts map in the back of this manual. 
 
Numerous sheets of plans are supplied either rolled up or folded, and in full size. The largest, showing rigging and masting, is printed in A0 size, so you'll need a large place to hang this up! Drawings are superbly done, and to my eye, look easy to understand, but then again, I am used to studying technical and engineering drawings. 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
Cutter

 


This type of cutter was very typical for the time, hence the reason for its inclusion with this kit. CAF have packed this into its own little box, and it presents a project in itself. As with the main hull, this is built up using a box jig into which seventeen individual frames sit on the keel, followed by the keelson. My only criticism of this is the use of ply for the frames. I feel these should’ve been made in cherry or preferable pear. All planks are laser cut into a thin veneer and need to be handled carefully. When built up, this should look a very attractive little addition to Le Coureur.

 

 

 

 
 
 
Accessories

 

 
This kit includes a small box containing barrels, crates, small crates, beds and also four crew. The barrel staves are produced in thin veneer, and photo-etch for the hoops. The crates are of simple construction and the parts look great with their laser engraving. Four resin crew figures are supplied too. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Conclusion
This is the first time I’ve seen a CAF kit ‘in the timber’, so to speak, and I very much like this release. Production quality is high and I think it sells for a very reasonable price for the amount of work and time you will invest in the build. CAF have tried to make the dark art (for some of us!) of POF, as simple as they can with engraving lines for bevelled frame parts, machined chamfers and also pre-cut planks. Still, this will be no walk in the park if you’ve never attempted such a project before, but CAF has done as much as possible to hold your metaphorical hand throughout the build. 
 
There is some clean-up required on the rear of some panels, to remove scorching, but this won’t be too difficult, and the inclusion of those machined stern timbers is a very nice touch. Kit fittings such as stove and cannon are also nicely cast and made, and the wooden barrel and crate set add an extra degree of life to the already nicely furnished hull interior. Of course, there’s those resin crew and beds too. In all, this is a very attractive and comprehensive kit of a very worthy subject. One beauty of this POF kit is that the frames have a natural spacing which means you can still the interior if you decide to leave a number of planks off the model. Head over to CAF Model and place your order. Looking forward to seeing some build logs of this on MSW.
 
My sincere thanks to Tom at CAF Model for the kit reviewed here. To purchase, click the link at the top of the article.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 

More fun photos of Jera and her sailboat. In the Cebu Straight, Cebu Province, Philippines.

Weighing and raising the anchor is a several hours long process and involved a great number of the crew.  The time and effort required to move obstructions from around the capstan was insignificant in comparison.
 
Regards,

And sitting on the gun is not unusual to be seen on paintings. 
 

 

 
Also later on to be seen with the french ...
 

 
And a fresh picture of Hermione, giving a hint what it would mean 😉
 

Hatchways were (are) often aligned vertically to allow raising or lowering large or heavy objects from or to lower decks,  therefore ladders were removable. This would obviously also allow for freeing space for the capstan bars.  Vertically aligned hatches and removable ladders continue in modern warships, allowing removal/installation of equipment in engineering spaces.

brings back memories.  you didn't get anywhere in the town of Weare,  if you didn't own a bike     friend's houses were pretty far apart......I did enough walking too.  I used to build my own bikes.........we'd take trash to the dump and I would come back with all sorts of spare parts!  I forget the brand,  but I came across a fully chrome bike frame.......just needed tires and rims.   I built a chopper.......the front fork was almost 3 feet.......had welded link chain for reinforcements { my dad did it for me}.   I rode it to school for the last day.......almost killed me when the rear axle snapped......almost got hit by a car!  ended up selling it to a friend for 2 cents   I wuz so mad!
 
a friend of mine built an interesting bike.......the frame was turned upside down w/large wheels.  the seat and handle bar shaft was raised about a foot and he bolted a car steering wheel on it.   he had to get on the bike by getting on the roof of their shed     the idiot almost killed himself on it     same kid that got the both of us kicked off the bus for fighting!
 
I've seen these kits around    {not this one,  but others}
 
*funny note*   hoarding like I did,  I amassed quite a few frames and stuff.   our house burned in 1969........we rebuilt.   Dad was digging the septic and needed to put in a leech bed.   we threw all kinds of junk in there for drainage.....but we needed more.  you guessed it.........he threw all my frames in there as well!  .........even the chrome one!

Was a 5-speed as I recall...a friend had one. The rest of us on single speed Schwins.  We did make a lot of mods...sissy bars, chopper forks, etc.  Fond memories.

Was a 5-speed as I recall...a friend had one. The rest of us on single speed Schwins.  We did make a lot of mods...sissy bars, chopper forks, etc.  Fond memories.

Was a 5-speed as I recall...a friend had one. The rest of us on single speed Schwins.  We did make a lot of mods...sissy bars, chopper forks, etc.  Fond memories.

Was a 5-speed as I recall...a friend had one. The rest of us on single speed Schwins.  We did make a lot of mods...sissy bars, chopper forks, etc.  Fond memories.

Was a 5-speed as I recall...a friend had one. The rest of us on single speed Schwins.  We did make a lot of mods...sissy bars, chopper forks, etc.  Fond memories.

Was a 5-speed as I recall...a friend had one. The rest of us on single speed Schwins.  We did make a lot of mods...sissy bars, chopper forks, etc.  Fond memories.

Was a 5-speed as I recall...a friend had one. The rest of us on single speed Schwins.  We did make a lot of mods...sissy bars, chopper forks, etc.  Fond memories.

When I saw this iconic bicycle model on sale at Ebay, I had to buy one. When I was a kid, all of us wanted one of these bikes, but I personally knew no one that actually owned one. Way too expensive back then. As best I recall, they were several hundred dollars. 
This is serving as a place holder right now as I am waiting to receive the kit from the vendor.
 

Finally the changes to the stern of my Syren are finished. The gun ports are closed (img 1), the long guns are back in place and rigged (imgs 2 and 3), and the jolly boat is in its final position (imgs 4 – 8).
 
Thomas
 

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