Peter Bloemendaal
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Everything posted by Peter Bloemendaal
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Hi Nirvana, I don't think there is a right or wrong here. I just try to keep very close to the manual and on the photo there, they had been sanded before the port frames went in. There may be a very slight advantage that marking the port frame locations may be a little bit more accurate on the surface after sanding but that's probably nitpicking. When you do the frames make sure you cut out the deck template and have a bit of a look. The front frames are not only smaller but are also angled in.- 242 replies
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I have finished the gun port Sills and Lintels. I have been sanding 80% with the Dremel using the hand held attachment and the last 20% by hand. To my surprise nothing broke..lol. So far so good. The gun port frames are next...
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Thanks John, Thunder & Jaager, I have decided to run with it and see how I go when I build it. I don't think the plywood is that critical because there is not much bending involved and the wood for planking can be replaced if needed. The question was more intended to find out if there were any visual indicators that the wood had deteriorated. Bending and breaking is a good test but not a good strategy if the kit was meant to be returned for a full refund. Everything that was originally sealed was still sealed and the plywood didn't look that bad. Maybe I overreacted a bit when opening the box after expecting a (near) new kit. Well..., lesson learned and I definitely think twice before jumping too quick onto EBay again....
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Thanks grsjax, I was afraid it was a bit of an open ended question. I was looking for an easy way of testing it out prior to finding out when I get around building it. Or if all dry and brittle wood can be somehow recovered by soaking it. Although the question probably falls under the "how long is a piece of string" category
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Welcome John, I'm sure I'll be helping you out by making a few mistakes to show you how not to do it... I'm with Shawn, The filler blocks took care of a slight curve with my bulkhead former as well. Cheers, Peter
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Just looking for some advice here. I purchased a kit on Ebay that was advertised as "New & Unopened". When I received it the rubber bands holding the wood strips had disintegrated and at some point had melted and were stuck onto the strips. Tracing the serial number with the supplier it turned out the kit was manufactured in 2005. The question is; Is there a way to tell if the wood in the kit is still good to be used. Can it be dried out in storage to the point it has become unuseable. Cheers, Peter
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I was lucky in that regard. I was dry fitting the lintels when something didn't look right. So the lintels will be done right. And the sills have just enough wood both sides sticking out for the curve. So, in hindsight, I almost prefer it that way. It makes for a stronger connection with less sanding. It also strengthens the bulwark extension I broke off at an earlier stage nicely. I just felt a bit like an idiot because I used to work both with Imperial and metric dimensions and am quite familiar switching between them, or so I thought...
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Just a quick question for the administrators. My Gallery photo's are up there for over a week now. I expected them to be there for only a few days at most. Is it my job to remove them or do they get bumped off when someone posts a new set. I don't want to take up the space while someone else is waiting in line....
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Hi Floyd, I did a quick check on the Carronades and I think I'm OK. I included a photo so if this triggers your mind and I'm wrong, let me know. When lining up the gun port lintels I realized I must have had a brain faze fitting the gun port sills. 1/4' is a smaller number than 3/16, right...., apparently not, so I glued in both rows orientated vertically instead of horizontally. After a few choice words and a frantic search further down the manual to see where it could cause me trouble I think I might have gotten away with it. (In the end I might even feel smart, because I got away with a lot less sanding than what I would otherwise had to do.....lol). Lesson learned: Concentrate & tripple check those silly imperial numbers when you are used to metric.
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When you say wrong, do you mean that the supplied carronades are different from what the instructions say they are, or do you mean that the carronades don't match what should be on the ship based on it's history and/or scale?
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Well I've done my 25 posts, so I have earned the right to put my 2 cents worth in...lol How about we modularize some of the big ships. We buy a stage 1 of, for example, the Victory. It keeps the cost down, we can see how we go (less wastage if we crash & burn) and 90% into the build there is a red flag in the instruction: "Stop here and purchase stage 2 to continue with the kit" or finish it off with the last 10% of instructions. The trick is to allow each stage to finish into a presentable model. People without space can decide to end up with a beautiful finished hull without full masts and rigging. Stage 1 can be the basic hull, stage 2 adds deck furniture, more carronades, etc, stage 3, masts with basic standing rigging, stage 4, full rigging, stage 5 sails, flags, etc. And most importantly, it keeps the admiral at bay when you only spent 25% of the ship per year. You can make it an annual birthday present....
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Thanks All, I bought the kit about 2 months ago from an online company in Australia. I'm not sure how long they had it in stock. I had been reading about the "red" plywood, so I was happy when the kit arrived with the proper stuff. From what I have read it's definitely worth replacing. I had some minor warping but the jig and the blocks took care of that. When I checked the content of the kit, I had a double set of Carronades and the Carronade trucks were missing. Just sent an email to ME and they sent me the missing bits straight away. So I have had very little to complain about.
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Some progress on Chapter 3. The "plank bender" turned out OK. A great stage of the build if you like sanding....
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Maybe you should include the question on how many different brands each voter has had experience with. In the Australian hobby shops the majority of models available are from Artesania Latina. I have only used one other brand. So I can only compare and vote for the 2, which doesn't do justice to the better quality kits I don't know about.
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I haven't made my mind up yet on the metal bits. My original plan when choosing to build the Syren was to just use the bits in the box and make it work. If I can make it to the finish line with a model even at 75% of the quality of the model shown at the end of the instructions, then the bits in the box have done their job. But I must admit, when the box arrived I was a little bit disappointed with the quality of some. For now, I'll just sit on the fence for a bit. If the build goes spectacularly well, I might replace them. It's still early days for me at Chapter 2..... Cheers, Peter
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Just an update with a few photo's. I am close to finishing Chapter 2. Still need to varnish the lower deck and some sanding to bevel the bulkheads a bit more. I got a bit of a scare when one of the back bulkhead extensions broke off when it got caught on my shirt while sanding the blocks down. It's glued back on but without any extra support because all 4 sides need to be accessible for future work. It's going to be fun managing that...
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Hi Rich, It's looking good. I have been following your log for a while now. I realise I've got some seriously fiddly work ahead of me. Just a couple of questions, do you varnish every part first before you glue them on. I always thought you varnish and/or paint once you finished an area or assembly. Also, are you planning to use the figure head supplied with the kit or make your own. The space between lower head timbers look a bit narrow (to my untrained eye). Cheers, Peter
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Thanks Rich, Per & John, Cheers, Peter
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Thanks Dough & Shawn, Hi Floyd, not sure about catching up, I still work full time and promised to occasionally sit down with the admiral & not talk about boats so I can only put around 15 hours a week into the build. And I intend to take my time, whenever I get confident and rush things, inevitably breaks happen. So it looks like I'll be lagging behind and initially looking for ideas rather than giving them. My blocks only looked nice & clean because they just float there, I hadn't glued them in yet...lol Hi Dutchman, My wife snapped me up while on holiday in Holland from Perth, Australia in the eighties. I migrated to Perth in '88. I only naturalized to become an Aussie around 8 years ago, so I hung in there as long as I could, but I'm not Dutch anymore. (Bloemendaal is a town on the dutch coast, you don't happen to live there, do you??)
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Well, here she goes, I'm joining the Syren club with another build log. I started this weekend and we'll see how far I get. It's my first attempt to build an advanced kit so there will be plenty of questions. Hopefully in time I maybe able to help others as well. There is not much more to say about this kit so here are the first photo's.
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Hi Kees, I'll be watching as well. I love looking at those old drawings. Brings back memories from when I was a draftie in Holland behind the manual drawing board. I like your approach with the "BLOB". I'm curious to see how it will work out. Peter
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Hi Dan, I'll join too if you don't mind. You got me curious what cardboard models are all about. Happy birthday as well. Peter
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Mmm, lets see. 6 feet would be 1830mm. Divide that by 60 make the little fella 30.5mm
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Hello from Perth, Western Australia
Peter Bloemendaal replied to Peter Bloemendaal's topic in New member Introductions
Thanks Shawn, Yep, it's a great forum isn't it. The beginners kits were a bit of a challenge at times for me as well. I also rushed them a bit and paid the price. The familiar path of two steps forward, one step back. But I managed to repair the bits I broke and I can live with the area's I could have done better. I am rigging the San Fransisco cross section at the moment and it is throwing up some challenges. It is my first exposure to some reasonably complex rigging so I am taking my time to get it right. (I tried to get done what I wanted to get done over the weekend, rushed it, and consequently cut an extra line already glued in place....DOH!! - another lesson learned). I also promised myself not to start the Syren before I finish the SF. There is also one of those nasty things called "Holiday" on the horizon, those things really slow your modelling down. So my gut feel is that I will start the Syren log in around 2 months. Can't wait though... -
I'll join as well. I have the Syren on the shelf and plan to also start a log in a few months so I'm keen to see how you go. Peter
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