JerseyCity Frankie

I needed a bell for a model I am restoring and I did not want to see what the internet had, nor wait for it to arrive if it even existed in the first place.
3mm was the thickest solid rod my local art supply store had, I was hoping for something thicker that I could then carve down to a bell shape. 
Instead I used a ring of brass wire set into a grove cut into the rod stock to represent the flared out shape of the bottom of the bell.
I used the high speed cut off wheel for most of this. I have a love/hate relationship with these disks. On the one hand they cut through anything. On the other hand they are so fragile they always break apart. I have used hundreds of them and maybe only three of those actually wore down to a tiny doughnut. The rest broke being handled or flew apart while under load. I have never been cut by flying pieces but then again I ALWAYS use eye protection when using a cut off wheel.
I have no lathe so this is all by hand and eye. I cut a groove around the rod and I round off the end of the rod to resemble the curved top of the bell. I wrap thickish brass wire down into the groove I cut, aiming for exactly the right length so the wire forms a ring. Then I hammer this down with a tack hammer, trying to mash the wire into the groove while smoothing the juncture with the rod.
Then I use the cut off wheel some more, this time as a shaping tool, smoothing the transition from the wire to the rod.
Then I part off the "bell" and as I was doing this I realized I could leave a bit of the "stalk" intact to look like a clapper.
I drilled a hole in the top of the bell and put in a fine brass wire eye, secured with super glue. I did not want to solder anything as I was going to use the brass in its natural finish.

I needed a bell for a model I am restoring and I did not want to see what the internet had, nor wait for it to arrive if it even existed in the first place.
3mm was the thickest solid rod my local art supply store had, I was hoping for something thicker that I could then carve down to a bell shape. 
Instead I used a ring of brass wire set into a grove cut into the rod stock to represent the flared out shape of the bottom of the bell.
I used the high speed cut off wheel for most of this. I have a love/hate relationship with these disks. On the one hand they cut through anything. On the other hand they are so fragile they always break apart. I have used hundreds of them and maybe only three of those actually wore down to a tiny doughnut. The rest broke being handled or flew apart while under load. I have never been cut by flying pieces but then again I ALWAYS use eye protection when using a cut off wheel.
I have no lathe so this is all by hand and eye. I cut a groove around the rod and I round off the end of the rod to resemble the curved top of the bell. I wrap thickish brass wire down into the groove I cut, aiming for exactly the right length so the wire forms a ring. Then I hammer this down with a tack hammer, trying to mash the wire into the groove while smoothing the juncture with the rod.
Then I use the cut off wheel some more, this time as a shaping tool, smoothing the transition from the wire to the rod.
Then I part off the "bell" and as I was doing this I realized I could leave a bit of the "stalk" intact to look like a clapper.
I drilled a hole in the top of the bell and put in a fine brass wire eye, secured with super glue. I did not want to solder anything as I was going to use the brass in its natural finish.

I needed a bell for a model I am restoring and I did not want to see what the internet had, nor wait for it to arrive if it even existed in the first place.
3mm was the thickest solid rod my local art supply store had, I was hoping for something thicker that I could then carve down to a bell shape. 
Instead I used a ring of brass wire set into a grove cut into the rod stock to represent the flared out shape of the bottom of the bell.
I used the high speed cut off wheel for most of this. I have a love/hate relationship with these disks. On the one hand they cut through anything. On the other hand they are so fragile they always break apart. I have used hundreds of them and maybe only three of those actually wore down to a tiny doughnut. The rest broke being handled or flew apart while under load. I have never been cut by flying pieces but then again I ALWAYS use eye protection when using a cut off wheel.
I have no lathe so this is all by hand and eye. I cut a groove around the rod and I round off the end of the rod to resemble the curved top of the bell. I wrap thickish brass wire down into the groove I cut, aiming for exactly the right length so the wire forms a ring. Then I hammer this down with a tack hammer, trying to mash the wire into the groove while smoothing the juncture with the rod.
Then I use the cut off wheel some more, this time as a shaping tool, smoothing the transition from the wire to the rod.
Then I part off the "bell" and as I was doing this I realized I could leave a bit of the "stalk" intact to look like a clapper.
I drilled a hole in the top of the bell and put in a fine brass wire eye, secured with super glue. I did not want to solder anything as I was going to use the brass in its natural finish.

I needed a bell for a model I am restoring and I did not want to see what the internet had, nor wait for it to arrive if it even existed in the first place.
3mm was the thickest solid rod my local art supply store had, I was hoping for something thicker that I could then carve down to a bell shape. 
Instead I used a ring of brass wire set into a grove cut into the rod stock to represent the flared out shape of the bottom of the bell.
I used the high speed cut off wheel for most of this. I have a love/hate relationship with these disks. On the one hand they cut through anything. On the other hand they are so fragile they always break apart. I have used hundreds of them and maybe only three of those actually wore down to a tiny doughnut. The rest broke being handled or flew apart while under load. I have never been cut by flying pieces but then again I ALWAYS use eye protection when using a cut off wheel.
I have no lathe so this is all by hand and eye. I cut a groove around the rod and I round off the end of the rod to resemble the curved top of the bell. I wrap thickish brass wire down into the groove I cut, aiming for exactly the right length so the wire forms a ring. Then I hammer this down with a tack hammer, trying to mash the wire into the groove while smoothing the juncture with the rod.
Then I use the cut off wheel some more, this time as a shaping tool, smoothing the transition from the wire to the rod.
Then I part off the "bell" and as I was doing this I realized I could leave a bit of the "stalk" intact to look like a clapper.
I drilled a hole in the top of the bell and put in a fine brass wire eye, secured with super glue. I did not want to solder anything as I was going to use the brass in its natural finish.

A neat solution indeed.
 
Michael

I needed a bell for a model I am restoring and I did not want to see what the internet had, nor wait for it to arrive if it even existed in the first place.
3mm was the thickest solid rod my local art supply store had, I was hoping for something thicker that I could then carve down to a bell shape. 
Instead I used a ring of brass wire set into a grove cut into the rod stock to represent the flared out shape of the bottom of the bell.
I used the high speed cut off wheel for most of this. I have a love/hate relationship with these disks. On the one hand they cut through anything. On the other hand they are so fragile they always break apart. I have used hundreds of them and maybe only three of those actually wore down to a tiny doughnut. The rest broke being handled or flew apart while under load. I have never been cut by flying pieces but then again I ALWAYS use eye protection when using a cut off wheel.
I have no lathe so this is all by hand and eye. I cut a groove around the rod and I round off the end of the rod to resemble the curved top of the bell. I wrap thickish brass wire down into the groove I cut, aiming for exactly the right length so the wire forms a ring. Then I hammer this down with a tack hammer, trying to mash the wire into the groove while smoothing the juncture with the rod.
Then I use the cut off wheel some more, this time as a shaping tool, smoothing the transition from the wire to the rod.
Then I part off the "bell" and as I was doing this I realized I could leave a bit of the "stalk" intact to look like a clapper.
I drilled a hole in the top of the bell and put in a fine brass wire eye, secured with super glue. I did not want to solder anything as I was going to use the brass in its natural finish.

Found this link on Reddit, looks like13 pages from a sketchbook have been reproduced.  http://www.cherini.eu/etnografia/IND/index.html
the root website doesn't translate to English but if you click on the hotlinks there is treasure:  http://www.cherini.eu/and I do mean TREASURE, I have not seen so much information on delightful non-Western rigs before.

"kardeelblocks"

 

 
More of the smaller stuf including 26 canons for the "verdek" - deck

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
I didn't want the captain to stare at his maps in the dark, so I brought him some lights

 

 

 
 
And finaly, I decided to make this piece (don't know the English word for it) which is absent in Winter's model.
But, I didn't like the open version.
 

 
 
I will keep you up to date more often, that's a promise...
 
Jack

Struggling with the moveable windows, I just can't get it right. The windows are too heavy in my opinion.
 

 
Alternatively I decided to close the 2 center windows en let the outside windows just open. (this is what Dik (7-prov) also assumes.
 

 
I'm still not sure if I leave it this way but I have to go on with the 'Kajuit'
 

 

 
Still a lot of work to be done.
 
Jack

It was in summer 2014 when I had the idea to build the French light Schooner “La Jacinthe” after the plans of Jean Boudriot. Together with five sisters she was launched in 1823, and in the following year five more ships were built, among them “La Mutine” (“The Rebel”).
As my cutter HMC Sherbourne she should be in 1:64 scale, so I scanned the plans and traced bulkheads and false keel in a way so I could build everything with plywood of 3mm. For that I used Adobe Illustrator, so I could laser cut the pieces in the FabLab of the local technical university.
 
  
 
“Printed out” in late summer, you can see here the bulkheads, false keel and deck, a few small parts and a piece for a jig that will help me to build a cutter. When I wanted to start building, alas, I saw that the false keel was totally warped. So I had to go to the university again, and cut everything again, but this time in MDF. And while I was at it, I did everything twice.
 

 
Just for testing purpose I cut keel, stem etc., I will user these parts as templates when working with pear wood. In the upper left corner you can see a jig that will act as a bulkhead former.
But why do everything twice?
I simply couldn’t decide: build the “Jacinthe” or the “Mutine”? The latter is shown in Boudriot’s book, after a refit in 1835. The main differences are closed and elevated bulkheads, new deck layout, iron pumps and anchor chains, a steering wheel, new chains and a new bowsprit, set in a different angle – in general, the “Mutine” appears much more seaworthy than the very lightly built “Jacinthe”.
So the plan is to build both: a fully rigged “Jacinthe” in natural pear wood, and a hull model of a black-painted, coppered “Mutine”. The twin build should not be boring or repetitive. Well, have to build two identical hulls, but all the other details mentioned promise to be sufficiently different from each other to make this a very interesting project.
 
Here a look of the two schooners, “La Jacinthe” (1823) ans “La Mutine” (1835):
 
  
 
  
 
The foundation is already laid: the two sisters can hardly be told apart yet.
 
  
 
This will be a slow build, and quite an adventure; my only experience in building wooden models is the Sherbourne kit, which I modified to my liking and where I learned the pleasure of working from scratch.
 

 
And as I have to do the heavy sanding outside, progress is dependent of the weather (yes, the with stuff is snow, for those having the privilege of living in a moderate climate).
Cheers,
Gregor
 
 
 

Still onto the Admirals quarters with the panelling in sleeping, dining and day room.
 
Making the panels from plastic card and wood.


Two layers to get panel effect.

Hats off on this deck.

Will paint light green and brass decoration.

Made up two of the three sections, with the dinning to do.


Frank

Lately I worked a few Deadeye.


were 1 mm in diameter, and are of plum wood

i start populating the lower deck . for instant the riding bitts , hatch and step for bowsprit. 

poop deck...

 

Found this link on Reddit, looks like13 pages from a sketchbook have been reproduced.  http://www.cherini.eu/etnografia/IND/index.html
the root website doesn't translate to English but if you click on the hotlinks there is treasure:  http://www.cherini.eu/and I do mean TREASURE, I have not seen so much information on delightful non-Western rigs before.

Gun ports and guns.
 
The gun ports have all been cut and to make sure that the guns are a reasonable fit all the gun carriages have been assembled and fitted to ports. When fitted the forecastle and quarterdeck guns were sitting too high in the ports. A dimension check showed that the bulwarks were not high enough so they have been raised and the gun carriages reduced in height to get a better fit. The final gun barrel angles still need a bit of adjustment but they are getting close.
 
A dry fit of all the bits assembled to date gives a good progress pic.
 
The capstan is the only major part missing from the upper deck and all the forecastle and quarterdeck fitting are next to be made.
 
I think that I am close to being able to start the top planking on the hull. Should be fun.
 
Cheers,
 
David.
 
                                         
 
       
 
                           
 
 
 
 
 

A bit of a milestone, starting to look like a ship.
 
As described before I needed to fit the lower mast sections to be able to locate the shrouds so the upper deck gun ports can be positioned. I also found that I needed to fit the bowsprit as it cuts into the forecastle deck and affects the planking layout.
 
All now fitted.
 
The mast rake is a bit of a mystery, it seems to me that individual captains could adjust the rake as the sailing properties of a ship developed and the rake would be changed to improve performance. About all that I'm pretty sure about is that the masts were only ever located vertical or raked back, not raked forward. So I have decided on a modest rake as would probably befit a ship at the beginning of a commission. The foremast is raked back about 1 deg, the main about 1.5 deg and the mizzen about 2 deg. The masts fitted into the pre-made holes in the upper deck and passed through the holes inn the forecastle and quarterdeck with minor adjustments and ended up vertical.
 
Cheers,
 
David. 
 
                             

Found this link on Reddit, looks like13 pages from a sketchbook have been reproduced.  http://www.cherini.eu/etnografia/IND/index.html
the root website doesn't translate to English but if you click on the hotlinks there is treasure:  http://www.cherini.eu/and I do mean TREASURE, I have not seen so much information on delightful non-Western rigs before.

Hi everyone
 
Hope your week's been going well.  Rainbow's progress continues...my main objective though, has been to concentrate on the major bulkheads and cupboard, etc.  Once I'm happy that these are in place, then I'll start on the other details, such as the doors, mattresses, sink, galley, etc.
 
I hope you enjoy these photos.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Here is the fore mast done a little at a time over time....
 
Also have the main mast on deck
 

Lots of little bits here so been working but not always feeling the progress.........

This is a follow-up to my query about zinc plating.
 
To simulate zinc plating on my Mount's Bay lugger model, I ended up using aluminum foil tape purchased at a local big-box building supply store. According to the manufacturer, the adhesive on this duct repair tape was good for a wide range of temperatures, from below freezing to well above boiling, so I figured it would sick all right to the smoothed, primed hull of my model. I cut scale rectangles to represent the 14" by 48" plates, and embossed them around the edges using a pounce wheel to represented the nail heads. I realize that this is not quite correct or realistic, since the nail heads would have been flush with the surface of the plates, or even recessed a little, but I felt that the visual effect of slightly raised nails was important to the overall look of the model. The aluminum foil tape was very shiny, but all it took was a spray with Dullcoat to give the plates a pewter-like appearance, close enough to the appearance of zinc plates.
 
Below is a photo of the hull, after finishing the application of the plates and spraying with Dullcoat. As I worked up from the keel and forward from the stern, I let the plates follow the curve of the hull, but the topmost row was applied along the waterline. In the photo, the rudder is in place, sheathed with foil plates below the waterline to match the hull, but has not yet been sprayed with Dullcoat. The effect of the Dulcoat on the shiny aluminum plates is clearly apparent.

Instead of paint, you may want to try "Tinnit" http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/er-18/tinnit-bright-tin-plate/1.html
 
This is a simple dip which "plates" tin onto the copper traces of printed circuit boards. Use brass or copper sheathing and coat it with this stuff. If the copper is rough (sand blasted), it might avoid a too-bright finish... or coat it with matte lacquer.
 
Photo shows Tinnit applied to machined brass fittings.
 
 

:Moved on a touch more with the 12 Pdr cannon.

Added most items to these, there are 40 12 Pdr long and short for the upper/quarter decks.
Next job was to add dafis trunnion caps, these have to be folded, so used a primitive jig for this.


Finished the Anchors.


Plus finished one side of the inner hull with wood.


Next it will be the hanging Knees.

Looking for some red boxes that adorn the ship and found some old AirFix ones.

Plus some Cannon ball clusters.

Then added the rest of Dafis etch King George motives.


A handy little tray for keeping all them titchy parts.


Foxy

With my 9 year old son now having three models under his belt (two ships) with my help:
 

 
He asked what was next on the horizon.  I was actually given an Airfix 1:180 HMS Victory model recently and I realized I now had two in stock.  So.....we are going to do dual builds.  The models are packaged differently but contain exactly the same kit components.
 

 
We are laying things out and mapping out our plan.  I am planning to do this one out of the box with no 'improvements.'  His model will be all him.  It will be interesting to get back into painting.  The paint in both boxes is quite old so I will buy new acrylics locally (as close as possible in color).  He is the only kid so far (fifth of six) that has had any interest in models so I am doing whatever I can to fan the flames - how can you do wrong with the Victory?
 

 
Looking forward to spending the time together,
Mark

Ok guys....can we get back on topic here.   Just a friendly reminder...this is what we have talked about before.  Please review the last dozen pages for build log content/ ship modeling content.  You wont find any.  Please take these conversations off list or to the shore leave section we set up especially for this kind of stuff..
 
Thanks for understanding.
 
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Chuck