JerseyCity Frankie
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to Jim Lad in Meteor 1851 by Jim Lad - Scale 1:96 - Immigrant Ship
Another small update - the last transom is in and a filling piece has been fitted under the transoms. This will be the last update for a while as I won't be in the museum for the next two weeks.
John
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from davyboy in LaToulonnaise
Take my advice and scrap this nonsense. You can save the model, just rig the shrouds like all other shrouds are rigged: with deadeyes. This drawing is pure nonsense. For instance, how is line #114 to be tensioned? Shrouds are TIGHT, they are holding up the masts, you can’t just nail a metal flange with a hook on it to the hull, it could never be adjusted. And if you’re just nailing the end to the hull, why do you need a hook that can NEVER be disengaged? Also look at line #113, why is the hauling end on the lower block? It should be coming off the upper block, rove to advantage. This was drawn by a landlubber who has never seen a real ship before.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from druxey in Mast Length Ambiguity
The rig height was a variable because there is a range of risk verses safety involved in adding more canvas to a given hull. Baltimore Clippers were known for their speed due in part to being recklessly overcanvassed. But Baltimore Clippers were intended for speed and those who sailed them accepted the risk as the penalty for greater speed. Conservative ship owners would sacrifice speed for the safety of a shorter rig, as they would also sacrifice a more efficient (and faster) hull shape in order to have a hull that could hold more cargo while traveling slower.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from pontiachedmark in Mast Length Ambiguity
The rig height was a variable because there is a range of risk verses safety involved in adding more canvas to a given hull. Baltimore Clippers were known for their speed due in part to being recklessly overcanvassed. But Baltimore Clippers were intended for speed and those who sailed them accepted the risk as the penalty for greater speed. Conservative ship owners would sacrifice speed for the safety of a shorter rig, as they would also sacrifice a more efficient (and faster) hull shape in order to have a hull that could hold more cargo while traveling slower.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from mtaylor in Mast Length Ambiguity
The rig height was a variable because there is a range of risk verses safety involved in adding more canvas to a given hull. Baltimore Clippers were known for their speed due in part to being recklessly overcanvassed. But Baltimore Clippers were intended for speed and those who sailed them accepted the risk as the penalty for greater speed. Conservative ship owners would sacrifice speed for the safety of a shorter rig, as they would also sacrifice a more efficient (and faster) hull shape in order to have a hull that could hold more cargo while traveling slower.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Books on model ship building
I believe the topic was book recommendations? ....... the Neophyte Shipmodelers Jackstay by GF Campbell is my recommendation. This slim volume is a good place to start if you want to invent the wheel for yourself and begin learning ship model building from the very beginning. The reason it’s perfect for the beginner is that it has some of the best clear uncomplicated illustrations you will ever see. Plus it doesn’t go down the rabbit hole in any one issue, it stays simple and covers the basics in a straightforward and efficient style. It covers all the necessary topics yet remains uncomplicated. Finally it’s inexpensive and easily obtainable in the secondhand market.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from mtaylor in Two hawsers one windlass
Regarding the concept of three turns of line on a windlas or Capstan, or any cylindrical object, you need to understand the term “Tailing”. Three turns around the cylinder provide a long “bearing surface” where the surface of line and the surface of the windlas or Capstan are in contact. If the circumference of the cylinder or Capstan is 36”, three turns of line taken around it give 108” of bearing surface- this is where the friction occurs. But there can be no real friction unless the turns remain tight on the drum. You can lead your anchor line from the haws hole to the Capstan or windlass and take three turns around it and then you can start turning your Capstan or windlass but those three turns are NOT going to grip the cylinder unless someone is “Tailing” the line. A person “Tailing” is merely pulling on the inboard end of the line. Not very strenuously but just enough to hold the turns tight to the drum and activate the friction of the three turns. Once the friction bites the line,the Capstan or windlas begins to take up the line that’s on it.The person Tailing acts like a clutch and can halt the process of taking in the line merely by slacking the line on his end.
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to daddytotwo in Tying hooks to blocks - Tips??
Hi everyone. I am just getting into doing my gun rigging on my Connie. I am trying to come up with a good wat to tie the metal hooks to the blocks. The blocks are 3mm and I am having a hard time making them look good. It also took way too long to do just one.
Does anyone one have any tips or tricks to doing this? Videos would be great!
Thanks!
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Smoke damaged ship
Soot, if the smoke damage you’re describing is soot, is nearly impossible to remove, sadly. I once attempted to remove greasy soot from painted metal that was adjacent to an area that a welding torch was used on. The black greasy coating resisted every solvent I had and couldn’t be removed. Perplexed, I googled “soot removal” and the only advice I could find was to try to “brush it off”. I surely hope your smoke damage isn’t soot!
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Cabbie in Two hawsers one windlass
Regarding the concept of three turns of line on a windlas or Capstan, or any cylindrical object, you need to understand the term “Tailing”. Three turns around the cylinder provide a long “bearing surface” where the surface of line and the surface of the windlas or Capstan are in contact. If the circumference of the cylinder or Capstan is 36”, three turns of line taken around it give 108” of bearing surface- this is where the friction occurs. But there can be no real friction unless the turns remain tight on the drum. You can lead your anchor line from the haws hole to the Capstan or windlass and take three turns around it and then you can start turning your Capstan or windlass but those three turns are NOT going to grip the cylinder unless someone is “Tailing” the line. A person “Tailing” is merely pulling on the inboard end of the line. Not very strenuously but just enough to hold the turns tight to the drum and activate the friction of the three turns. Once the friction bites the line,the Capstan or windlas begins to take up the line that’s on it.The person Tailing acts like a clutch and can halt the process of taking in the line merely by slacking the line on his end.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from el cid in Two hawsers one windlass
Regarding the concept of three turns of line on a windlas or Capstan, or any cylindrical object, you need to understand the term “Tailing”. Three turns around the cylinder provide a long “bearing surface” where the surface of line and the surface of the windlas or Capstan are in contact. If the circumference of the cylinder or Capstan is 36”, three turns of line taken around it give 108” of bearing surface- this is where the friction occurs. But there can be no real friction unless the turns remain tight on the drum. You can lead your anchor line from the haws hole to the Capstan or windlass and take three turns around it and then you can start turning your Capstan or windlass but those three turns are NOT going to grip the cylinder unless someone is “Tailing” the line. A person “Tailing” is merely pulling on the inboard end of the line. Not very strenuously but just enough to hold the turns tight to the drum and activate the friction of the three turns. Once the friction bites the line,the Capstan or windlas begins to take up the line that’s on it.The person Tailing acts like a clutch and can halt the process of taking in the line merely by slacking the line on his end.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from rybakov in Two hawsers one windlass
Regarding the concept of three turns of line on a windlas or Capstan, or any cylindrical object, you need to understand the term “Tailing”. Three turns around the cylinder provide a long “bearing surface” where the surface of line and the surface of the windlas or Capstan are in contact. If the circumference of the cylinder or Capstan is 36”, three turns of line taken around it give 108” of bearing surface- this is where the friction occurs. But there can be no real friction unless the turns remain tight on the drum. You can lead your anchor line from the haws hole to the Capstan or windlass and take three turns around it and then you can start turning your Capstan or windlass but those three turns are NOT going to grip the cylinder unless someone is “Tailing” the line. A person “Tailing” is merely pulling on the inboard end of the line. Not very strenuously but just enough to hold the turns tight to the drum and activate the friction of the three turns. Once the friction bites the line,the Capstan or windlas begins to take up the line that’s on it.The person Tailing acts like a clutch and can halt the process of taking in the line merely by slacking the line on his end.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Gregory in Two hawsers one windlass
Regarding the concept of three turns of line on a windlas or Capstan, or any cylindrical object, you need to understand the term “Tailing”. Three turns around the cylinder provide a long “bearing surface” where the surface of line and the surface of the windlas or Capstan are in contact. If the circumference of the cylinder or Capstan is 36”, three turns of line taken around it give 108” of bearing surface- this is where the friction occurs. But there can be no real friction unless the turns remain tight on the drum. You can lead your anchor line from the haws hole to the Capstan or windlass and take three turns around it and then you can start turning your Capstan or windlass but those three turns are NOT going to grip the cylinder unless someone is “Tailing” the line. A person “Tailing” is merely pulling on the inboard end of the line. Not very strenuously but just enough to hold the turns tight to the drum and activate the friction of the three turns. Once the friction bites the line,the Capstan or windlas begins to take up the line that’s on it.The person Tailing acts like a clutch and can halt the process of taking in the line merely by slacking the line on his end.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from pontiachedmark in Capstan
Mostly I see (in models and in modern replica ships) the Capstan Bars stored horizontally in racks on the nearby bullwarks. I doubt they’d be stored below decks but it’s possible.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from mtaylor in Capstan
Mostly I see (in models and in modern replica ships) the Capstan Bars stored horizontally in racks on the nearby bullwarks. I doubt they’d be stored below decks but it’s possible.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from BLACK VIKING in rigging thread sizes
Simplified running rigging, from thickest to thinnest line, is determined-logically- by the load the line is expected to take. So the halyard used to raise the topsail Yard is going to be thicker than the one assigned to the Tgallant and Royal yards, which are considerably smaller. The exact same principle applies to the braces on all those yards too, and their Lifts. The lightest and thinnest lines will be the Buntlines, which are only used to lift the weight of the sail when it’s no longer drawing wind.
the other consideration is when you have a block and tackle on the end of a line: the pennant ( the part the blocks is fixed to) is always going to be much thicker than the falls of the tackle-the line that’s rove through the sheaves of the tackle.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Gregory in rigging thread sizes
Simplified running rigging, from thickest to thinnest line, is determined-logically- by the load the line is expected to take. So the halyard used to raise the topsail Yard is going to be thicker than the one assigned to the Tgallant and Royal yards, which are considerably smaller. The exact same principle applies to the braces on all those yards too, and their Lifts. The lightest and thinnest lines will be the Buntlines, which are only used to lift the weight of the sail when it’s no longer drawing wind.
the other consideration is when you have a block and tackle on the end of a line: the pennant ( the part the blocks is fixed to) is always going to be much thicker than the falls of the tackle-the line that’s rove through the sheaves of the tackle.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from el cid in rigging thread sizes
You can kind of ballpark guesstimate rigging sizes. Especially if you keep in mind the running rigging has to fit into the sailors hands! Any rope thicker than two inches would be too large to grab and haul on so make yourself a cardboard cut-out crew figure of the proper scale for your model. If the hands on your figure are too small to see? You better not use any very thick thread for rigging. You can get by with three different thicknesses of running rigging, unless your model is very large. The standing rigging can be worked out based on the mainstay, which is the thickest material on the ship. The shrouds are slightly smaller, the topmast shrouds are further slightly smaller. All the standing rigging gets smaller the higher up it goes in the rig until at its highest point it’s about as thick as your “medium size” running rigging.
You can gain a lot of comprehension from looking at photos of actual historic square rig ships, look for photos of the coiled rigging on the pins and you will see typical size ranges.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Gregory in rigging thread sizes
You can kind of ballpark guesstimate rigging sizes. Especially if you keep in mind the running rigging has to fit into the sailors hands! Any rope thicker than two inches would be too large to grab and haul on so make yourself a cardboard cut-out crew figure of the proper scale for your model. If the hands on your figure are too small to see? You better not use any very thick thread for rigging. You can get by with three different thicknesses of running rigging, unless your model is very large. The standing rigging can be worked out based on the mainstay, which is the thickest material on the ship. The shrouds are slightly smaller, the topmast shrouds are further slightly smaller. All the standing rigging gets smaller the higher up it goes in the rig until at its highest point it’s about as thick as your “medium size” running rigging.
You can gain a lot of comprehension from looking at photos of actual historic square rig ships, look for photos of the coiled rigging on the pins and you will see typical size ranges.
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from mtaylor in rigging thread sizes
You can kind of ballpark guesstimate rigging sizes. Especially if you keep in mind the running rigging has to fit into the sailors hands! Any rope thicker than two inches would be too large to grab and haul on so make yourself a cardboard cut-out crew figure of the proper scale for your model. If the hands on your figure are too small to see? You better not use any very thick thread for rigging. You can get by with three different thicknesses of running rigging, unless your model is very large. The standing rigging can be worked out based on the mainstay, which is the thickest material on the ship. The shrouds are slightly smaller, the topmast shrouds are further slightly smaller. All the standing rigging gets smaller the higher up it goes in the rig until at its highest point it’s about as thick as your “medium size” running rigging.
You can gain a lot of comprehension from looking at photos of actual historic square rig ships, look for photos of the coiled rigging on the pins and you will see typical size ranges.
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to Roger Pellett in Two hawsers one windlass
Some windlasses had a sort of arbor that ran above. This allowed the cable for the Anchor not intended for use to be hung from it in large loose coils around the windlass but not in contact with the barrel.
Roger
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to Roger Pellett in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
Re: Stacked Boats
i don’t know what period the above Constitution model represents but by mid Nineteenth Century US practice was to nest the cutters in the 1st and 2nd launches. All of the thwarts in the launches were removable. When in use thwarts were fastened by iron pins into heavy clamps worked into the boat’s interior structure. This allowed the stack of boats to be considerably lowered.
See: William Brady, The Kedge Anchor.
Roger
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JerseyCity Frankie reacted to Roger Pellett in Putty...
For general use in my shop I keep a can of Durham’s Rock Hard Water Putty on hand. This comes as powder in a can and mixes with water to the desired consistency. It is odorless, foolproof, and sands well. It is stocked by my local big box home improvement store. I see no reason why it would not work for you.
Roger
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from Canute in Smoke damaged ship
Soot, if the smoke damage you’re describing is soot, is nearly impossible to remove, sadly. I once attempted to remove greasy soot from painted metal that was adjacent to an area that a welding torch was used on. The black greasy coating resisted every solvent I had and couldn’t be removed. Perplexed, I googled “soot removal” and the only advice I could find was to try to “brush it off”. I surely hope your smoke damage isn’t soot!
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JerseyCity Frankie got a reaction from CaptainSteve in HMS Surprise kits
Nobody ever wants to take a crack at the HMS Polyphemus, lol. She was an entirely fictional experimental double-ended frigate that Patrick O’Brian made the primary vessel in the second or third novel in his series. Our hero is given her as a command simply because virtually nobody else wants it. It’s sailing qualities are so bizarre it sometimes moves backwards. Still, a good subject for a scratch build in my opinion.
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