niwotwill

Looking like a shipyard Maury all that timber waiting to be used. You're right about school glue once set it as hard as titebond to dissolve. Only good news it drys clear. Will

Thanks everyone for all the likes and comments it helps me stay motivated. Finished rough shaping of port side frames and the cutting into the stem rabbit. Next will be the fairing of the starboard side and then final shaping with battens checking the fairing. I have struggled with planes and chisels and since the result were less than satisfactory I bought a good set. I bought a Lie-Nielson modelers plane and violin makers plane along with a set of Narex paring chisels. I used the chisels on fairing the bearding line and a chisel on the fairing the forward filler into the rabbit. These tools are phenomenal the cut like it was butter with fantastic control. No slipping or gouging as you cut. I can't recommend good tools enough. Make it a good day Will

So you decided to leave the black scuffed as yard damage. Looks good and yes you are blazing a path to follow. Well done Will

Spent the last few days making the galley stack, platform and the bowsprit bitt. The galley stack was made using 1/8" brass tubing, 26 AWG copper wire, and platform from Alaskan Yellow Cedar. The galley platform was like the mast bases and the coaming elsewhere. Using a mitre box I cut the tubing at a 30 degree angle to reverse them making the stack. No cleanup done after cutting The copper wire was used to form the handles. Using the jaws of needle nose pliers as a mandrel the wire was formed making the two handles. Before soldering the tubes together a .015 was drilled through the tube making a receptacle for the handles. Silver solder was used to flow into the joints rather than making a fillet as in soft soldering. The part was cut to proper lengths making the stacks correct length. Last part was to drill a 1/8" hole in the platform for the stack fitting into. The bowsprit bitt took some thinking of how to determine the size and angle for the bowsprit tenon. Using a protractor and the drawing a 20 degree angle was used making the bitt supports. The side support were a .03 piece of AYC. the large piece is the .03 side support and will be cut after the bitt is assembled and when the glue has cured they will be added. the front with the deck furniture complete except the eyebolts & rings. It's getting very busy but the nice thing is that I mostly used pieces from the scrap box to make all the deck fixtures except Chucks wheel. Now with almost all the wood construction done I'm not sure what I'll feed the scrap box. Make it a good day Will

Thanks for all the likes and those following my log it helps me stay motivated. Spent some time these last couple days fairing. Finished the rough fairing on the port side being very carful not to remove to much. Tomorrow I'll start checking with battens and smoothing out the rough sanding. Still aways to go but so far I haven't broken any bulwark extensions. Sanding sanding sanding and more sanding to go. Make it a good day Will

Finished the gallows bitts, riding bitts, fore bitts and now onto the galley stack , bowsprit bit along with 22 eye bolts with split rings. Make it a good day Will

simply fantastic what more can I say. almost party time 👋 Make it a good day Will

Well I got the bulkheads glued followings Chucks advice to simply let the glue ooze out and wipe extreme excess. Everything worked as planned all square, level and even. That done its time to cheerfully fair Cheerful. Taped the stem and keel to protect them so I'm ready to start. I think I'll go outside to do the sanding mess but since its 100 degrees I'll wait until this evening while sitting on the patio listening to the waterfall fountain. Bulkheads and fillers glued I use a piece of dense upholstery foam cut to fit between the bulkheads extensions. I started this on a previous model and it made handling the model easier and safer for the extensions as they are supported. All taped up and ready Tonight we make sanding dust Make it a good day Will

Question and help! When I dry fit the bulkheads to the BF they fit so tight I wonder how glue will remain between the fitting surfaces. Do I just glue in the slots? Do I glue a fillet along the joint between the BF and bulkhead? Please you thoughts and ideas Make it a good day Will

Got the forward and midship hatch gratings completed. Built the coamings and shot racks and when everything completed applied pre-stain and stain. Glued shot to racks and mounted everything to the deck. On to the gallows Make it a good day Will

Spent a little time on the stem and keel pieces gluing and sanding. Then made a copy of the stem and keel treenail patterns and transferred the patterns to the parts. Drilled the hole with a #76 bit, darkened the hole with start pencil point and added natural colored filler. Scraped off the filler with razor blade and sanded the parts again Applied the first coat of WOP and the AYC takes the WOP leaving a very nice color and finish. So following the monograph my next step is to place the bulkheads and fillers. KUDOS to Chuck the bulkheads fit perfectly in each slot and square to the BF. Attaching the keel Dry fit bulkheads KUDOS to Chuck everything is square fwd and aft and athwartship. Treenails and first WOP Make it a good day Will

The lines of the hull are really taking shape and showing what a great looking boat she is. Interesting way to hold the battens twisted copper wire I will keep that in mind for difficult areas in the future. Make it a good day Will

Just a quick note to say thank you for all the comments, likes and looks it keeps me going. Make it a good day Will

Completed the main fife rail with sanctions and belaying pins. Drilled a hole in the sanctions with a #79 drill bit and glued a short piece of 26 awg copper wire into the hole and a corresponding hole in the deck. Using CA to glue the rail assembly down to the deck. Next I have to make the forward hatches and then on to the gallows Make it a good day Will

On a previous post I forgot to show one aspect of the stem that I added. One of the logs I follow building Cheerful is Chucks original log while building the prototype Cheerful. In that log he mentions adding reliefs to the holes for the stem deadeye halliard allowing the ropes to lay naturally. Here is a photo of the reliefs Make it a good day Will

Glued the bulkhead former together so now I have complete BF to work with. Added the 1/8" by 1/16" boxwood strip making the rabbit. Let the glue dry overnight and started sanding the burn off the stem and keel. The stem pieces fit almost perfectly with a very minimal sanding before no light shining through when held up to a window. With the stem being 7?32" thick and BF being 1/4" thick leaving a 1/64" thick gap. With 1/64" being .015/6 I kept trying to find a spacer that would bridge the gap while I clamped the pieces together. While having the pieces clamped together I realized that the rubber pad on the clamps were compressing on the BF and not on the stem. DUH!!! Examining the stem from the front I could see that it was centered on BF. Glued first piece on with a major sigh of relief. More tomorrow and many more tomorrows Make it a good day Will

Thanks for the looks and comments. I've been following your ECB and it good to hear about your fife rail. Looking at it again this morning makes me worry again so I'm going to stain and see what I get today. (good, bad, or ugly) Make it a good day Will

Many thanks for all the like and comments it really helps me keep motivated Well started the main fife rail by cleaning the char from the two pieces. That was a very delicate procedure and I only broke each piece once. i'm worried about staining the fife rail as I've had so much trouble getting basswood to look good after staining. We'll see how it comes out and if not satisfied I'll make another from AYC. Glued the 1/8" by 1/32" strips together for the mast base using AYC and when adding the hole for the mast I broke one. Oh well make another. Finished making the stanctions (stiles) for the fife rail out of toothpicks. Again many thanks for the likes Everything seems to be returning to normal so I guess its time to change my signature. I have a long time friend who always said "make it a good day" and he still says that to me when we say goodby. Even with his dementia, Make it a good day Will

Been a busy week but I did manage to finish the pumps. Just need some minor touchup. I looked at many logs of how people did their pumps everything from exotic to pure kit versions and it left me more confused. I finally decided to make my pumps like the kit designed version with some modifications. I built mine from brass rod, round tubing, square tubing and wood. I used Thomas Gahms method of drill holes in the deck to allow the pumps to move and thereby eliminating the dimensional problem of the plunger to cross beam. Everything else is pretty much as drawn on the plans. I used a piece of 5/32" by 1/16" yellow cedar and drilled 3 1/8" hole spaced for the pumps and center post. Filed the center hole to1/8" square to find the 1/8" square tubing. Used round brass tubing of diminishing sizes to make the pumps, plunger, handles, and brass rod for the plunger rod and handles. All the pieces silver soldered making the individual assemblies. All together it is comprised of 25 pieces. Dry fit on the deck to verify the scale and it all would fit. Happy for the look I took it all apart and soaked the parts in distilled white vinegar to etch before painting. Painted parts and assembled the pumps and glued them to the deck. Now on to chapter 13 and specifically the fife rail. Stay Well and Stay Safe Will

Reading, reading and more reading so now it is time to start building. First have copies made of the plans at Mesa Blueprint and hang up original set for reference. Next to mark the the bulkhead locations on the bulkhead former and then make a copy of the BH. Then cut out the bearding line to use as a template for the port side making sure that I had features included that will allow alignment on the port side of the BH. Drawing the bearding line using the template and that's how I started the build. Stay Well and Stay Safe Will

Thanks Matt. Glad to have you along on the trip and as always any and all suggestions, comments, help appreciated. Stay Well and Stay Safe Will

Thanks Gregory and Chuck. I've been looking for the prototype build log and haven't seen it in quite a while. I've bookmarked the log and it will be great asset to use while I'm building. Stay Well and Stay Safe Will

Looking good. I really like the new wood accentuating the shipyard look. Well done. Stay Well and Stay Safe Will

Just a note, I believe that the upper deadeyes are upside down. Should they not be opposite each the lower deadeyes. The knotting looks fantastic its really going to be magnificent. Stay Well and Stay Safe Will

After spending months looking at Chuck Passaro's website and reading through logs of finished and in process Cheerfuls' I ordered the kit. This being a scratch built POB I ordered the starter kit from Syren Model Company. I've been following the Winchelsea group build using Alaskan Yellow Cedar as the building material. Reading comments and looking at photos of the wood with WOP helped me buy some AYC to try on other builds. I must say "I like the way it looks, cuts and finishes" so I bought the wood along with the starter kit. When the Cheerful arrived in a large envelope and a small box upon opening the packages I immediately spread out the contents and started studying my loot. Let the journey begin. Now its back to reading the monograph and logs of how and what to start first Stay Well and Stay Safe Will