GrandpaPhil
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While waiting for my bulwarks to dry, I started working on the transom (I promise that painting will happen in the near future). I knocked down the transom about 1/16” to make the gap that can be seen in that painting.
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I am working on the cap rails: For anyone who is new and would like to learn to make cap rails, and I used to hate making them, the trick is to flip the model over and trace the bulwarks. After you get the profile from the bulwarks, add a little bit on the outside, so it overhangs just a smidge and make the inside line such that it overhangs just a smidge on the inside. It is very quick and very easy this way. For me, my bulwarks are approximately 1/8” thick. I wanted a 1/16” overhang on both sides so I could trim at will. I traced my bulwarks and added 1/16” to the outside and 3/16” to the inside. Then I cut it out and made it double thickness. When I got ready to glue them down, I used the trial and error method to get my exact contours during the dry fit stage. Once they fit perfectly, I glued them down. I don’t bother trying to edge bend wood to get a cap rail, even on wooden models. I trace it from my bulwarks and cut it to shape. It is much easier and avoids the splitting issues and the resultant profanity that edge bending usually causes for me.
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Thank you all for the comments and the likes! I have installed the ribbing on the starboard side. They ended up 1/16” wide, but the 3/8” spacing stayed, for the most part. The port side is done on the forward deck: I measured off the framing for the transom/transom rail. The painting is different from the Hahn plans, but I like the look of the stern better, and since Hahn created his plans of the Hannah based on conjecture... I do believe that I will make my stern look like this.
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Welcome!
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Welcome! A cutter (which is what the Lady Nelson is) is a good starting point. I have never heard anything bad about Victory Models (although I haven’t built one myself). My recommendation is to search build logs of the Lady Nelson and start your own build log. Ask lots of questions.
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Matthias from Berlin, Germany says Hello
GrandpaPhil replied to victory78's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome! -
Hello from the not so sunny Spain.
GrandpaPhil replied to Jandrus's topic in New member Introductions
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The scuppers are now done: Because I used that hought board which fuzzes, I sealed the inside of the scuppers using a dental pick to apply sealant. In the painting from the US Navy’s History and Heritage Command, there are ribs on the insides of the bulwarks, so I am going to incorporate those prior to attaching the cap rails, which will go on prior to the initial painting.
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Thank you all for the likes and for stopping by! The gunports have frames: I’m currently working on making scuppers.
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Looking good! Keep at it!
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The forward deck is done: Which means the entire deck is now planked: I added a couple trim pieces: Next step is to seal the deck and cut out the scuppers. Then I’ll add the gunport frames and paint the hull.
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Thank you both! I just finished the other side and sealed it. Everything will look much better once I get some painting done. I finished planking the aft deck. I planked the entire Prince de Neufchatel, painted it and coppered the hull over a four day weekend, so I was trying to figure out what the difference was, because this is my second weekend since I finished the first layer of “planking”. Then I realized that I did the work on the Prince de Neufchatel literally during a blizzard when I was snowed in, and not in the middle of the summer when I have stuff to do, lol. It’s amazing to consider the effects of the seasons.
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Thank you all for the comments and the likes! The second planking is done: The next step is sealing that and planking the deck!
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The second layer is almost on: The port side went on neater than the starboard. I think I was a little out of practice, lol.
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Make sure you seal the vinyl with a good sealant. I typically use Mod Podge or Delta Ceramcoat Sealer. Otherwise, there can be issues with the paint adhering well.
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First side has a second planking (read covering): It’s a little rough, but it’ll look better soon!
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Edward, Thank you very much! The second planking is self adhesive vinyl. I would think any filler would work. I have used drywall mud and other fillers on models before, with success.
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All trim is now installed and the model is nearly ready for the second planking. I need to trim the fashion pieces and seal the model before it can be planked with the second planking. I will do the deck at the same time. I am using the painting off the Navy’s History and Heritage Command for my primary color reference. I will also use it as a reference for some of the detail work. I have not yet decided on a color for the base.
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Thank you both! Thank you everyone for all the likes! After looking at the model in the US Navy Museum, I ended up reshaping the stern and quarter areas of the hull with putty to make the wales go on correctly. I made the wales and installed them. I also made the quarter trim pieces. I made the stern trim pieces and installed them. I also cut the hole for the rudder. I still have some more trim pieces to make, then I’ll add the second layer of planking. I’m adding the trim first because the planking is contact paper, which is a plastic and this creates adhesion issues.
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One very rough, roughed out hull: It only needs some minor shaping and I’ll add the wales and a couple pieces of trim. Then I’ll make the second planking out of wood grain contact paper. I’ll be honest, getting to this point is the hardest part of a ship model, for me.
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I am using an inside layer of posterboard to set my bulwarks. So far I have the forward deck done and trimmed off. I installed my transom and planked over the curved section with 1/8” wide posterboard. I traced out and reflected the forward bulwarks and glued them to the inside of the bulwarks, on posterboard. I cut the gunports as part of it. The aft deck is now installed. I will have some reputtying to do once I cut the aft bulwarks. The stern is about 80% complete.
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Thank you very much! I like working in card. It works well for me. Here is the forward deck:
Our Emblem ®
