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GrandpaPhil

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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil

  1. Thank you all for the comments and the likes! The taffrail is made and installed: I used CA on the edges, over the PVA, so I could have something to carve smooth and blend the railings. I have a few minor spots to fill and then it will be time to paint! Speaking of which, I am going to treat Hannah like a wargaming miniature and basecoat/prime black. All vinyl is already coated in sealant. Basecoating in black gives depth to the model and will help give the ship a well-used/gritty look.
  2. Welcome!
  3. Welcome! Preshape everything and use PVA craft glue, those are my 2 cents worth of advice.
  4. Your model is looking good, don’t get discouraged. The great thing about a wood kit is that pieces are easily replaced, if need be, especially if you can take a pattern off the original.
  5. Thank you both! Yes, the gun carriages will be made of card. I’ll use the exact same method I used for the Victory and the Prince de Neufchatel.
  6. The cap rails are on. The only railing remaining is the taffrail.
  7. While waiting for my bulwarks to dry, I started working on the transom (I promise that painting will happen in the near future). I knocked down the transom about 1/16” to make the gap that can be seen in that painting.
  8. I am working on the cap rails: For anyone who is new and would like to learn to make cap rails, and I used to hate making them, the trick is to flip the model over and trace the bulwarks. After you get the profile from the bulwarks, add a little bit on the outside, so it overhangs just a smidge and make the inside line such that it overhangs just a smidge on the inside. It is very quick and very easy this way. For me, my bulwarks are approximately 1/8” thick. I wanted a 1/16” overhang on both sides so I could trim at will. I traced my bulwarks and added 1/16” to the outside and 3/16” to the inside. Then I cut it out and made it double thickness. When I got ready to glue them down, I used the trial and error method to get my exact contours during the dry fit stage. Once they fit perfectly, I glued them down. I don’t bother trying to edge bend wood to get a cap rail, even on wooden models. I trace it from my bulwarks and cut it to shape. It is much easier and avoids the splitting issues and the resultant profanity that edge bending usually causes for me.
  9. Thank you all for the comments and the likes! I have installed the ribbing on the starboard side. They ended up 1/16” wide, but the 3/8” spacing stayed, for the most part. The port side is done on the forward deck: I measured off the framing for the transom/transom rail. The painting is different from the Hahn plans, but I like the look of the stern better, and since Hahn created his plans of the Hannah based on conjecture... I do believe that I will make my stern look like this.
  10. Welcome! A cutter (which is what the Lady Nelson is) is a good starting point. I have never heard anything bad about Victory Models (although I haven’t built one myself). My recommendation is to search build logs of the Lady Nelson and start your own build log. Ask lots of questions.
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