
GrandpaPhil
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Thank you all for the comments and the likes! The taffrail is made and installed: I used CA on the edges, over the PVA, so I could have something to carve smooth and blend the railings. I have a few minor spots to fill and then it will be time to paint! Speaking of which, I am going to treat Hannah like a wargaming miniature and basecoat/prime black. All vinyl is already coated in sealant. Basecoating in black gives depth to the model and will help give the ship a well-used/gritty look.
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Welcome!
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Welcome!
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Welcome!
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Welcome!
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New to MSW, Tom from The Netherlands
GrandpaPhil replied to Articcie's topic in New member Introductions
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Welcome!
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Welcome!
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Hi from15 nm west of Hamburg / Northern Germany
GrandpaPhil replied to Oboship's topic in New member Introductions
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Welcome!
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New member from Central Scotland
GrandpaPhil replied to Rik Thistle's topic in New member Introductions
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Welcome! Preshape everything and use PVA craft glue, those are my 2 cents worth of advice.
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Welcome!
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Your model is looking good, don’t get discouraged. The great thing about a wood kit is that pieces are easily replaced, if need be, especially if you can take a pattern off the original.
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Thank you both! Yes, the gun carriages will be made of card. I’ll use the exact same method I used for the Victory and the Prince de Neufchatel.
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While waiting for my bulwarks to dry, I started working on the transom (I promise that painting will happen in the near future). I knocked down the transom about 1/16” to make the gap that can be seen in that painting.
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I am working on the cap rails: For anyone who is new and would like to learn to make cap rails, and I used to hate making them, the trick is to flip the model over and trace the bulwarks. After you get the profile from the bulwarks, add a little bit on the outside, so it overhangs just a smidge and make the inside line such that it overhangs just a smidge on the inside. It is very quick and very easy this way. For me, my bulwarks are approximately 1/8” thick. I wanted a 1/16” overhang on both sides so I could trim at will. I traced my bulwarks and added 1/16” to the outside and 3/16” to the inside. Then I cut it out and made it double thickness. When I got ready to glue them down, I used the trial and error method to get my exact contours during the dry fit stage. Once they fit perfectly, I glued them down. I don’t bother trying to edge bend wood to get a cap rail, even on wooden models. I trace it from my bulwarks and cut it to shape. It is much easier and avoids the splitting issues and the resultant profanity that edge bending usually causes for me.
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Thank you all for the comments and the likes! I have installed the ribbing on the starboard side. They ended up 1/16” wide, but the 3/8” spacing stayed, for the most part. The port side is done on the forward deck: I measured off the framing for the transom/transom rail. The painting is different from the Hahn plans, but I like the look of the stern better, and since Hahn created his plans of the Hannah based on conjecture... I do believe that I will make my stern look like this.
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Welcome! A cutter (which is what the Lady Nelson is) is a good starting point. I have never heard anything bad about Victory Models (although I haven’t built one myself). My recommendation is to search build logs of the Lady Nelson and start your own build log. Ask lots of questions.
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