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hollowneck

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Everything posted by hollowneck

  1. hollowneck
    Ditto, I concur! 3D Printing is changing our game dramatically: from stoves to blocks and deadeyes, from boats and scale-accurate figures. Excellent work on your small boats. They are yummy, like a dollop of Devon clotted cream on a crumpet.
  2. hollowneck
    Nice job. Vanguard's 3/D printed boats are gems. I agree: a thin color stripe (your choice) would look good. Good decision to retain the inner natural wood tones and paint the exteriors white. I would surmise this is a more accurate color scheme for the period. Perhaps the only exception would be the Captain's barge (pinnace). I recently added two Vanguard ship's boats to one of my favorite, older models designed by Chris: the HMS Diana (Caldercraft). I believe they make a nice addition. Only two added midships since a normal, larger complement would hide much of the midship's deck details!
  3. hollowneck
    Congratulations on your Sphinx and allow me to congratulate you on your next project: new fatherhood. You've done a superb job with this superb kit and made it yours. I like many of the choices you've made along the way, especially your color palette which tells me you lean toward being an artist, like myself. I've posted previously on MSW that documenting one's work on a Build Log will roughly double the amount of time involved with the completion of the model. It's more than taking photos and uploading them; there is also necessary prose to explain and detail one's decisions and implementations. With a new child on the way, you're going to be very busy and have limited hobby time for a while: I'm certain you'll understand your new priorities.
  4. hollowneck
    Linus, Thank You, much appreciated. My HMS Camilla diorama is 1 M (37" wide) X 27" deep. Allow me to give you two MSW links on this model: The first is for my photo gallery in my profile that shows many other angles of this competed model. The second link is for my HMS Sphinx Build Log which has 19 pages of details on my build, including making her sails, the additional and required sail rigging and the crafting of the diorama's presentation base. Good luck on your build of this elegant and superbly designed kit from Vanguard. Many hours of pleasure. Guaranteed! https://modelshipworld.com/gallery/album/2658-hms-camilla-1775-vanguard-models-hms-sphinx/
  5. hollowneck
    Impressive models! I too like your gaming mat. You will find that your Vanguard Brig model is a perfect "step" into a larger wooden ship model world. I've attached a photo of my Vanguard HMS Camilla (Vanguard's HMS Sphinx), in her full-sized, seascape diorama. I hope that you won't mind me posting this photo on your thread. If I'm wrong, my apologies in advance. Also, I posted a lengthy Build Log here for this model which also detailed how I fabricate my sails and the water. Ron
  6. hollowneck
    ...and Bacon, courtesy of their close barnyard friends... Great job on this restoration, Glen. Congratulations on an excellent job!
  7. hollowneck
    "...which is the toasted cheese and plum duff is catching a cold, Sir!"
  8. hollowneck
    As the saying goes: "Better to ask for forgiveness, than permission." Love this illustration. Posted on Amati's new website....
  9. hollowneck
    Mine too...
  10. hollowneck
    The waterway looks great and should be represented with this detailed model: I also add them and pierce for the scuppers. I have a suggestion on the color problem: try doing a "white balance" with your camera. Your camera's software should allow this adjustment. You'll basically have your camera's sensor look at a "white" (or Gray) card and you'll make subsequent adjustments to correct for the tone it shows you. You can also Google this term. A number of options will explain what can be done to correct your camera's output. Pentax also should have directions available.
  11. hollowneck
    Impressive recovery work CWO Highlanderburial. I can't wait to see your restoration in person at the next Philadelphia Ship Model Society's monthly meeting! Nice - ah - nice... Ron
  12. hollowneck
    Nice exposition on your copper patina trials; close - but no cigar (yet). I agree that the coppering on your Harpy looks just fine as it stands. Mother Nature will do the rest. Your chemistry trials reminded me of my own that I also abandoned. This photo taken after approximately two years after placed on her pedestals. These are the questionable "domed" copper plates from Caldercraft, circa 2012/13.
  13. hollowneck
    Good call. The batten definitely helps the aesthetics. A 1.0 mm strip is all it takes. I did the same with my old school Caldercraft 64 that has the golf ball sized bumps on her otherwise accurately-sized copper plates.
  14. hollowneck
    Good Karma, either way.
  15. hollowneck
    Here is my old penny HMS Ardent's coppering after 11 years. When completed she too was an eye-watering, bright sea scoured pink. Perseverance + Patience = Patina
  16. hollowneck
    For picking-up and attaching small items like copper plates, I found that this dentists staple works really well. It features a waxy rounded tip that is extremely long-lived. I haven't encountered anything small (in our small scales) it can't reliably pick up. It works especially well to assist in applying thin laser cut or P/E decorative elements. One source: Amazon (where else!) - Pulpdent Pic n Stic
  17. hollowneck
    "Resistance Is Futile." The Borg, Star Trek Maurice, have you started on that room addition to your home yet?
  18. hollowneck
    I really like your solution for the stern's finishing pieces, well-done! Exposed end grain on planking is a shipwright's "no-no!"
  19. hollowneck
    Chris, you may want to consider adding gunport linings; I've done this on a number of my models. 1.0 -1.5 mm thick pear will do the trick; it can appear to be scale-conforming and not reduce the size of the openings too much (the stock can be sourced from some of the "empty" laser cut patterns in your kit). This is a lot of very precise cutting and fitting work, but in my estimation it is well worth the effort. The photo here is of my Mercury brig (Russia- circa 1820) that illustrates my point. In this instance I used boxwood for the linings to match the upper hull works (the lining edges remain visible in spite of the red lining treatment). The bulwarks planking is also boxwood, a substitute for this Amati kit's too dark wood. Of course, you can leave the linings unpainted which I have typically done with later models I've bashed.
  20. hollowneck
    @etsinko 's Build log for MK's "Polotsk" is a reference I used for my (incomplete) build. Near the conclusion of his build, he mentioned to me the following: ...there were a few custom parts involved: 1. I used aftermarket lasercut grating 2. I made my own ropes 3. I used aftermarket wooden belaying pins instead of brass one that came with the kit Personally, I lament the inability to purchase scale-accurate belaying pins from Russia. The available brass ones that are close in scale work but one must paint or chemically treat them.
  21. hollowneck
    Your work on this very nice kit is excellent, Chris. It is truly unfortunate that we can no longer acquire this kit (or any others from this Russian manufacturer). I purchased a Master Korabel kit pre-Ukraine/Insane invasion; it was a superb kit that was developing into a very nice model when I suspended work on it (schooner Polotsk kit, 1788). The 1:72-scale innovative kit design came with high-quality materials throughout (laser cut pear and excellent P/E) as well as a decent visual, non-English manual. I wonder if the company has survived the madness? IMHO, Russian and Ukrainian ship modelers are some of the finest in the world. I'll be very interested to see your work on the rigging. Sails?
  22. hollowneck
    No. The model was rigged entirely with a single diameter of 3 stranded cotton thread that is no longer available. The original builder paid a lot of attention to reeving the stays properly, however he applied what seems to be a variable coating of shellac to most rigging lines (standing as well as running) including where lines terminate: cleats, belaying points, but more problematical, where lines reeve through blocks! Once fully-rigged, the builder apparently wanted to insure the rigging wouldn't go anywhere nor absorb moisture (? a guess). The builder loved doing rigging (one of the better aspects of this particular "old school" kit model) and I believe he wanted it to survive for centuries! Unfortunately, the rigging's shellacing didn't prevent the family cat's other plans... Looking closely at the model's crushed mainmast top, the shrouds and stays are nicely reeved. The same light colored rigging line used for running lines was darkened somehow for the standing rigging.... and then, coated with shellac where it terminated (to keep it in-place is another guess). I'll close this out now, since I'm getting (WAY!) off-topic from @JohnEvans original query.
  23. hollowneck
    The topgallants are going to be the most challenging to repair. I'm planning on employing an internal "splint" (thin brass wire with a daub of clear Gorilla glue) to connect the thin, broken dowel surfaces to one another. Re-tensioning the existing backstays, shrouds and braces will help stabilize these delicate dowel pieces. One of the principal issues on a restoration commission is to return the model to its original configuration as best one can. This restriction means I can't use certain materials like modern rope for rigging repairs.
  24. hollowneck
    One mast. One spar. One rigging line at a time. I'm Keeping Calm. Carrying On. I've added an overhead "gantry" to my workshop's ceiling to suspend the model's rigging mess while I repair the broken masts and spars. Three clamps on the glued maintop that is in four broken pieces. Intense lighting also helps.
  25. hollowneck
    When I picked the model up from my client I saw no evidence of any household pets. Plausible deniability!

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