hollowneck

Doug, I agree with Glenn, your boat looks fine with your Speedy. I suggested the resin ones from Vanguard as a "bookmark" possibility for future model projects. I should point out that Chris' 3D-printed clinker hull "cheaters" have molded in ribs, thwart rails and a tapered keel to the transom - so no fiddling with making and mounting these details. I also like that the clinker overlaps are partially visible in the boat's interior. BTW: Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated.

Same for me on difficulties with these small boats in the kits. Vanguard has provided an excellent solution for those who would like to include a small boat (or more) with their ship - without the demanding and critical skills needed to fashion a decent-looking small boat; these small craft (in small scales) are very challenging to construct. Here is a link for the Vanguard 3D-printed, resin boats offered in hulls only or complete "mini kits". I will also add that the prices are quite reasonable, especially for those who are in the U.K. as the Royal Mail cost is a pip. https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product/clinker-hull-boats-3d-printed/ Here is a photo of the launch I made with a Vanguard 3D printed resin hull. I scratched wood pieces to simulate the boat's interior elements and used some of the laser cut pear parts in the larger kit (HMS Sphinx). This pic from my WIP Build Log and not a final arrangement.

😁...Indeed, he could be dancing a jig... however, I've updated my Log with an important announcement that he'll be given another post. I confess I have no whale bone in my shop since it's now illegal.

Completed rope hank jig, a test for the Ensign, and reassigning Cpt. Pennypincher... My completed hank jig has five stations. The Matte Medium adhesive for securing the coils as well as the beeswax that acts as a release agent on the wood armature (I rub this along the top and facing surfaces about every two or three runs of hanks). On the righthand side, three short coils; on the left, two longer ones. The openings in the wood came with the spare piece. The ends of the hanks have been taped down with a strip of Tamiya tape until the coils dry. I've estimated that I'll need a total of approximately 90 total rope hanks, a mix of the two sizes shown below. These are the two sizes for nearly all of the running rigging on the model: .35 mm & .45 mm tan rope. I found a good image for the Royal Navy ensign online and I downloaded it so I could edit it in P'Shop. I then resized it in good resolution (200 ppi). I wanted to double-check the overall size before committing to a color print file. However, I no longer have a color printer so I've printed out the flag in its correct size with a home office black & white printer: 3.62"W X 2.12" H. I'll take the image file (including a reverse image "flipped file" for the opposite side of the flag) to an imaging vendor (probably Staples) and print out a couple copies in color (Red Ensign). Notice how large the ensign is next to the sailor figures. When I was removing the resin bases for three of my 3D printed sailors with my disc sander, Captain Pennypincher's leg disappeared into the void somewhere on my shop floor, never to be found again. I've considered fashioning him a "peg leg" with a toothpick but now owing to his disability, I decided to transfer him to another post ship and bring aboard a new Captain... ... meet HMS Camilla's new man-in-charge, Captain C.W. Wigglesworth. He may be a tad shorter than Pennypincher, but he is much-admired among his sailors. The ultra-thin 3D print base will allow me to remove it with a sharp craft knife and thus, I can save his leg post-painting. What's one more figure to paint? Wigglesworth will get in line with his six cannoneer crew next week for wardrobing. The grey sprue on the right is Wiggleworth's sword & scabbard.

Link works for me fine: iOS on an iPad in Safari. Also o.k. on my Mac, also using Safari.

With only a few of her rigging details left to complete (rope hanks, flags, sail weathering details, etc.), I need to estimate the base area for her diorama so I can order custom millwork. In the two photos, I've placed some long strip stock on the table tennis top to get a visual on the maximum size of the "pan" I'll construct from plywood and the 4" high architectural door casing for its sides. I needed to get the lengths of the custom casing right to confirm my order. The tentative dimension of the base is 36" W X 24" D. The placement of the model here is not exact. I have two long carpenter's clamps that will be necessary to hold the sides to the ply base when I do the lay-up. The final base measurements help me determine the size of the water creation materials too, which I'll need to order in the next couple weeks. This photo shows an approximate "heel" to the ship (to starboard). Her bow will be riding up on a wave. Her keel will likely rest on the plywood base, like my other dioramas. This means that there will be an approximate "depth" of the water/wave action of about 3"-5," a little deeper than my previous dioramas (weathery, choppy seas with a couple rollers). The ply base will likely be from 3/4" surfaced ply (to help prevent warping over time). This results in the 3" minimum measurement for the water depth effect. For visual reference on the overall diorama size, my previous 6th-rate model (HMS Swan-12) was placed in a 40" X 20" base presenting the model on a slight port heading, bow forward. HMS Camilla will be presented with a starboard heading on a significant tack showing her stern in an approximate position shown in the previous photos. ------- So, until I the custom door casing millwork arrives at my doorstep (a long 94" tube via Fedex), I'll go back to some loose ends (literally!)... To make numerous rope hanks, I've made a new rope hank jig. I will need two different rope hank lengths for Camilla's rigging. I had to toss an older hank jig as the placement of the pins didn't correspond well with the smaller hanks; it was also pretty tired from previous projects. The photo shown here was a test to check a new approach for gluing and I'll add several more "stations" to it subsequent to my successful test. I've drilled three (3) pin (brass brad nail) holes in two edges of this 9" long piece of spare wood (an armature) for making the hank loops: one hole is on the thin top and two others on the wider face. The forming nails are brass because the water solution of the glue will - in just a few uses - start to rust regular nails. In the photo, the coil has been turned four times and secured on the shortest length of two facing pin holes for the brass nails. Next to these nail positions, I've drilled another much smaller hole on the top for a sample belaying pin. This is the 8 mm size pear pin that I've used throughout the model. I did this this to check the fidelity of the thickest running rope that I'll use as well as the size of the loops. A little less than half the total number of hanks I'll need will be on the small belaying pins, the other hanks will mount to the larger shroud and bulwark cleats (hence, the longer size pin placement that will facilitate fashioning longer coils - the dark hole at the base of the coil will be the maximum hank length, another 4 mm). This single station at the jig's end was to determine whether or not I could use diluted Liquitex Matte Medium adhesive on my hanks/coils. It worked. On some previous models, I used diluted PVA for hanks and struggled with this approach; I recall a nearly 50% failure rate with various issues that plagued my method. When I thought I got the perfect mix of glue and water to allow a hank to be smoothly removed from the jig, they fell apart when I began mounting them because the glue wouldn’t hold the shape.Grrrrr… The long top edge of the wood armature is rounded-off slightly because... ...before coiling a precut length of rope around the two brass pins, I rub a small disc of beeswax along the edge where the rope will contact the wooden armature. The beeswax helps to release the completed rope without having it come unravelled (I still use pointed tweezers to carefully remove the dried coil after pulling the brass pins out by carefully twisting them with my fingers). After coiling the rope and leaving a short length on the final "tail" wrap, the entire hank is coated with diluted Matte Medium with a small brush (about a 50/50 mix). The "tail" gets tucked back through the coil and trimmed after removing it from the jig. The matte adhesive dries in about 15 minutes (in a warm shop). From previous experience I know I can also use a hair dryer to speed this up to under 5 minutes per run. I will now add another 5 or 6 "stations" to his jig so I can lay-up multiple hanks at a go. I'll post another photo of my final hank jig. I'll show how I dress the formed hank to their belaying pins and cleats when I add them later. Another detail here, before I paint the balance of Camilla's crew (the six impressed cannoneers). I've coated the sailor on the left with a light touch of the Testor's Spray Lacquer ( previously branded "Dull Cote") to diminish the natural shine of the acrylic paint job. In comparison, the Captain hasn't been spritzed yet. The effect is certainly subtle, but to my eye nonetheless dramatic under less intense lighting. I lit this purposefully to show the contrast between the "dulled" figure and one that hasn't been toned-down. Placing the two in position on the model under normal overhead lighting the dull figure is much more convincing. Tamiya makes a "Clear Coat" spray product but I've never used it. The recommendation from this manufacturer is for it's use on polycarbonate surfaces. I'm not certain what this would do to acrylic paint on 3D-printed resin figures. These are the sort of OTT details some of us OCD "miniaturists" obsess over.😂 ...and, I aver...18th-C sailors' clothing was made from wool (or linen) primarily and would not have been "shiny." Shiny is for the Captain's buttons, epaulettes and sword handle.

I like how both models complement one another in your sophisticated, elegant presentation; the table has worked quite nicely in the sitting room also. I believe I’ve spotted a Geoff Hunt print on the right, but I can’t quite make out the one to the left. The Syren capstan is a nice touch. I’d be quite comfortable in this room were I your guest; you’d find me sprawled on the carpet straining to get closer looks🤩 Like many of our colleagues here, I’ll be keeping a sharp weather eye out for the next Blue Ensign masterwork.

Thanks for your encouragement, druxey. When I have nothing else to do, I just might attempt to put a 17:00 shadow on one of these dudes.

Thanks for the insights on the ensigns, B.E. You share with us an encyclopedic knowledge of the British Navy and her fighting sail. Not mounting a Union Jack is how I've been leaning. The Main T'gallant pennant is a must and will be accompanied by a large ensign at her stern. I did Google for Royal Navy sailors, early-18th-C and the uniforms that appealed to me matched the Captain's. HMS Camilla's dress code is shipshape and - Fashion Forward. As far as the cannon team, I've seen that a couple of the impressed men from Cinderford go shirtless, so their dress will be considerably less formal. 😂 Appreciate your info on the books, especially the Osprey one; I believe what popped-up in my image search was from a page in Nelson's Sailors.

Thanks for the good words, Mike - and the fast look-in on this Build thread. I'm getting excited to see the special order carpenter's casing wood arrive so I can begin to address the "box" she'll sit in. There's still a bunch of details (like making/mounting rope hanks), weathering of all the sails and the paper flags so Ive got some things to do before Big Shop Tools start making sawdust!

An update on the completion of some details that get me closer to having HMS Camilla ready for her diorama to be made. Some final rigging has been accomplished on the gaff sail at the stern (spanker). I have yet to make the large ensign that will be hoisted on haliards rigged to the gaff yard. The large flag will require a block and tackle to haul it. The ensign staff provided in the kit has been removed; this created the space for the flag as well as the rigging required for handling the fore-to-aft sail. With the rigging of the gaff I've nearly completed all the critical sail rigging; the large array of temporarily positioned ropes - sail as well as running - can now be tightened, battened down and then fixed in place. In addition to a large Royal Navy ensign, HMS Camilla will fly a lengthy top gallant pennant. I haven't decided yet whether or not to fly a Union "Jack" at her bow. The flags will be made from paper and shaped to show the effect of the following wind. After rigging the gaff, the final running rigging ropes were run from the Main top gallant yard to the deck. The bracing lines (adjusting the top gallant's yard for tacking & wearing) require the longest run of ropes on the model. From the foc'sle's forward pin rails to the midship jeers and cleats on the main shrouds, the area is still relatively wide open for finishing all the belaying points. Once rope hanks are made and mounted, the skids and the ship's boat will be returned along with a spare topmast. I thought it might be helpful to show the array of tools I use for rigging. Of course, there are others who will use other tools. For my work, all these long manipulation tools are essential for getting into a myriad of tight spots. There are a few areas where the long surgeon's scissors can more effectively trim a line where the small embroidery ones and fingers just won't fit. Even the dental pick is handy, especially for mounting rope hanks to cleats and belaying pins. ....a follow-up look at how I approached making and mounting the hawse buckler's (large stoppers for the anchor ropes that have been removed). I led a small rope from each buckler pair up to the caprail, both starboard and port. ... just when I needed a break from never-ending rigging*, two sailors showed-up to crew Camilla! I did a little research on the uniforms of the era and I believe I got it reasonably correct. The two "tars" (Royal Navy sailors) flanking Cpt. Pennypincher came all the way from the 3D printing machine in Chris Watton's shipyards in the U.K. The bases on the figures will be removed (likely with a disc sander); retaining them while detail painting is a help. Since my pared-down crew (eight plus Pennypicher in total) is an active one in a diorama, I have taken my builder's liberty to "weather" their clothing. Clean,white trousers and stockings? No way. With figures of this quality, the subtle details of the sculpts can be easily emphasized with finishing "washes" after the principal colors have been painted. After I've let the painting thoroughly dry I'll spritz them with some Testor's DullCote ( a lacquer acrylic) to tone down the "shine" of the paint. A closer look at the Boss and one of his employees. These figures are superbly-sculpted and cast in very fine, high-quality resin. The details are quite extraordinary, right down to facial expressions and details of the hands. But, I do have to admit I couldn't see fingernails or whiskers. There's always room for improvement, right?... I'm happy to say "Good Bye" to the sad Amati crew from the 70's....and, there are rumors that a Vanguard six man gun crew is about to board ship. And the brushes needed to paint these 28mm (1:64 scale) figures: a 20/0, a 12/0 and a #1 round pointer brushes. Small acrylic bottle for scale. * never-ending rigging. Yes, it seems at times that I'll never see the end of the rope(s)! The Truth is that I do like this stage of building. But it is quite draining, especially on the eyes and the steadiness of my hands and fingers. Only a few hours at a time is how it works for me. Taking a break to work on something else keeps my sanity - and fun - a thing of delayed gratification. I believe anyone on this forum who rigs sailing ships of any era or variety won't have a problem with this sentiment..

Tis’ a thing of beauty, Sir. Congratulations and kudos. Your build has truly been an inspiration for many of us.

Welcome to our community,Jack. You’ve made a great start with getting your materials lined-up for your build. I have no problem with you posting photos from my Build Log on yours, especially the materials and various tools and techniques I use. The photos of some components to your Polaris model look well done. You’ re off to a very solid start. Everything you’ll need in the way of information for your ship modeling journey is right here - including a very supportive membership that will be eager and responsive to lend plenty of advice when and if you ask for it.

Your model is looking good. Nice job on your hull plating, a very difficult and fiddly task. I've been dealing with my model's sail belaying for the past month. There is not a lot of information on the specifics of where and how sail management lines get rigged on a 17th-C, three-masted frigate. Detailed sail and belaying plans for frigates are also in short supply!

A brilliant "foot (& peg leg) - ectomy" surgery to your cook. He'll still hit his head on deck beams but I'm certain there were other more lethal hazards working in the ship's galley! BTW: Horatio Nelson was 5'6", so was Churchill and Hitler. Napolean was rumored to be 5'2". 250 years ago people were, on average, much shorter. You know, like Vladimir Putin, who is 5.3" and shrinking daily... I'm very tempted to start painting my crew for HMS Camilla. There will be no cook on HMS Camilla: she has a solar-powered microwave in the First Officer's cabin...

Bravo, B.E. Looks good- and you needn’t change her badge to HMS Porcupine. Also, there will be no excuses now for losing a drunken sailor over her side! 😉 …every time I sit down and look at my model, I see things that need touch-up… Dust: I keep a can of compressed air handy and it works a treat. Prior to final photography, I’ll give my Camilla a Force 5 blast.

Congratulations,Chuck. Your unwavering focus on quality (and fidelity) is an inspiration to many, many members of this forum. You have truly given so much of yourself, to so many. I know I am not alone when I personally say ”Thank You” for all that you have done to elevate our hobby.

I think your model will look great with ropes on all the cranes/stanchions, even on the breast rail. Context and all that, a "finishing touch." Without ropes, I think they'd look odd: black prickly bits randomly popping-out of her hull. That would guarantee you'd get puzzled queries from onlookers... Thank you kindly B.E. for your commentary on my build photos as I complete my sails and rigging. I agree they do show the complexity - and frankly, the "beauty" of fighting sail. Macro shots are now required for most of my rigging photos since there is so much in each photo to see. I've tried to make viewing easier in some by adding pointers and circles to illustrate my descriptions. I agree: my Foretack is going to remain as-is. However, my hauled Mainsail has "hit the bullseye" (courtesy definition from @druxey for what I've called "rigging trucks"). Thanks for allowing me to "invade" your Build Log by responding to your post on mine.👍

Thank you, druxey. Can I claim I've "hit the bullseye(s)?"

Thank You, Kevin, much appreciated.

Nearing the finish line on sails and their rigging. Some small changes, diversions (improvements?)... I've removed the hawse cables and mounted a bower anchor. The hawse bucklers (plugs for the thick anchor rope openings) are yet to be scratched and inserted. The Fore course tack rope is very close to the cathead, yet it does lead fair to the boomkin block. This is because the foresail is hauled up against the wind which draws the clue and tack inward. The boomkins should extend further and thus be a little longer. Oh well...next model. The sail rigging necessary to present a hauled Main course is completed. The two bunt lines (center of sail) are rigged to blocks added to the top (like the additional foretop rigging for the Fore course) )and then led down to the deck through shroud "rigging trucks." I'll carefully paint these in a brown acrylic as I think these were made of wood, not iron. These were not supplied with the kit, but filched from my vast stash of rigging gubbins....I know, another 17th-century technical term... The sail's tack rope hasn't been rigged yet in this photo. When rigged, the tack line, (leading fore), will help gather the dangling clue corner of the sail more upward and closer to the yard. The Main Course is hauled and both tacks lead to the mid-deck bulwark cleats. Now that sail rigging is complete, I'll adjust and secure all the lines at the midship's jeer blocks and various shroud cleats. The fore topsail's yard bracing will be done last in this area of the model owing to the limited access after the sail rigging is cinched-up and done. In the log, I've somehow overlooked mentioning that my Maincourse shown here was made from silkspan in roughly half the actual length of the sail to allow a better and more natural depiction. I did mention however, that unlike all my other sails, this Maincourse was created from a single layer of colored silkspan with reinforcement linings and partial bolt ropes at the clues. As a result, the single layer is more translucent, but to my eye this isn't a deal-breaker by being highly noticeable or incongruous. A view of the hauled Main course from the starboard stern. Clue, sheet and tacks have brailed the gathered sail close to the yard, but the sail won't be "gasketed" (tied tightly to the yard with additional ropes) since Camilla is in "fighting sail" configuration. The outline of the added bunt line tackle block that permits the bunt ropes to gather the large sail at the center can be seen at the very corner of the top. Like the Fore top buntline blocks, these two blocks are 3.0 mm stropped, single-sheave ones.

The berthing rails and deletion of the boomkins are very nice "additions," B.E. Will the brass rod alignments of her cranes be replaced with rope? A few posts ago you asked about my sail rigging on the main fore of my Camilla; your query makes perfectly clear sense to me now! Here's a couple photos of how CLOSE Camilla's foretack comes to getting tangled-up with the cathead. Admittedly, this is the worst-case as the sail is tightly-hauled. Foretack-to-boomkin; close, but no cigar. The tack line clears, but not by much. I agree with your making the boomkins a longer extension, however I'm NOT re-doing mine since the rig runs fair. Next model...

Here, here. I second that (e)motion! Really good improvements to the model engineering of this challenging part of any period ship build. Investment in Indy...we're getting very close to pounds for dollars. Us lucky Yanks!

"Wakey, wakey, pussycat"... Model ship builders in the house! Model by Howard Williams, CMMS (Connecticut Marine Model Society), 2019. Tug smoke courtesy of his "mature"feline. Another model by Howard Williams, CMMS 2008. Ironclad smoke courtesy of Howard's younger kitty. Photos: courtesy of me. Apologies Mike. Is this hijacking your thread?...

Indeed...Holy Smokes!...you got your boiler tenders doing their jobs! Aha. Interesting. I haven't tried any medium with TP, just diluted white glue & water. I used toilet paper (single-ply, important!) on my HMS Swan diorama to get the effect of wind moving across a water's surface. Attached is a close-up where you can easily see the effect of the minute "crinkles" produced by the toilet paper after it had thoroughly dried but before any color/painting. If you'd like, the pic has enough resolution so you can zoom in closer for details. The water surface effect is especially visible near the towed boat. You've gotten plenty of well-deserved "High Fives" on your model. Congrats (again). Great job.