hollowneck

Planking the wale will work out fine, Jeff. Don’t forget to transpose the scupper hole positions to the hull.

Your basic hull looks very good; I had some difficulty conforming the single piece wale pattern and decided to plank my model’s wales. I lost the nicely laser-engraved plank scarfing lines of this detail, but after painting I’m glad I made this decision. Other builders here have successfully executed this step so it is possible. The answer: heat, water, lots of creative clamping solutions…

Thank you, Jim. These little fellows are fun all around. Painting first, then carefully removing their resin bases, then playing “toy sailors.” One day I might just add a full 100-man on-deck crew to a large model…but this depends on Chris @ Vanguard to keep the 3D printer busy!😂

Pennant fixed. Thanks to B.E. for pointing out that the Cross of St. George was missing. Pretty obvious that I added a paper fix with this close-up. Perhaps less noticeable is the tiny section of rope meant to simulate the halyard passing through the mast’s single-sheaved truck. With the painting of Camilla’s diorama coming up this week, I decided to first button-down all the rigging, add the balance of her crew and do minor touchups before the model is placed back into her waterline seascape. Taking care of these details at this stage will be much easier since the diorama is large; access will be a challenge once the model is ‘sealed’ into her water. This shot clearly shows the importance of upgrading to high-quality rope. This close-up is approximately 800% of actual figure size (28mm or a little over 1” high). The textures of realistic-looking rope are quite apparent even with the thinnest diameters(.30-.45mm). Cpt. Pennypincher has asked Wigglesworth to set aside their differences and consider his offer to serve as Pennypincher’s second-in-command. This will resolve the issue satisfactorily for the ship’s crew since both leaders are well-respected. ”I am honored, Pennypincher. Now. Let’s attend to the task at-hand and grab some Froggie prizes, I say!” Never hurts to have gunnery practice, especially with the Navy’s newfangled carronades. A few loose ropes remain with their rope hanks. I started the balancing and tightening of her rigging at the stern and worked my way forward to the stem. After all the running rigging was set, some of the standing rigging needed adjustments to tighten it up. After rigging has been on the model for a few weeks it will relax and last-minute tweaks are necessary to conform it, particularly the backstays. I created a spare main topmast and it can be seen in this photo next to the launch. Like the ship’s boat, the spare mast will be lashed to the skids. The likelihood of battle damage was high when on post duty in the channel where encounters with the enemy were nearly certain. The loss of propulsion owing to a mast-severing cannon ball was a very real threat in close encounter frigate battles. + Midshipman Smythe is one of my favorite blokes from Vanguard. I must have placed him in at least a half-dozen spots before finally deciding on this position. He’s hauling the mizzentops’ls sheet hoping the additional canvas will give her another knot or two… ! My second favorite dude, sailing Master Wilcox.He’s keeping a sharp weather-eye on the hauled Main course. Another 800% close-up. As they told him while on the film set for Master & Commander, “…the camera likes you, Wilcox.” Camilla’s ensign has been sprayed with a dull-coat flat lacquer that imparted a very convincing fabric texture. The copier paper I used for the color print had a sheen that made it almost look plastic, toy-like. I am quite pleased with Vanguard’s figures. The high quality of these 3D-printed figures helps to animate the model. Thanks to Chris W @ Vanguard these period accurate, mini people are a game-changer for us diorama presenters.

Dan, check your PM.

Happy Birthday. Keep rock'n the Model Ship World!

I like it. Keep Calm and Carry On.

Thanks B.E. I'm on it! Now that it's mounted, rather than paint I'll print two white and red English crosses and glue them to the hoist section of the pennant on both sides. If you look closely at the two officers - and thanks to his man-servant- you'll see that Cpt. Wigglesworth is now wearing recently laundered, clean britches. Thanks. Much appreciated. I don't wish to invoke the anger of either gentleman. Thanks to B.E.'s timely suggestion, I'll cross this bridge later today.

Excellent description of your work. The draped flag may be the best I’ve seen on the forum. Thanks for detailing the steps and also for attempting some of the suggested alternatives. I wholly concur with your final choice. It looks great on your model.

The family that plays together, stays together! Love this Rockwellian illustration. Ahh...fond memories... the uncomplicated 50's, when men were just bigger boys and....girls were...uh....

@bruce d...I think I've inadvertently hijacked your thread! But in my defense - it's your fault for starting this one!😂

And, in case your sweater isn't warm enough in the garage, you can always fire-up the kerosene heater... It's hard to tell, but do you think the young boy is wearing a tie like Dad?

The 1972 First Edition of the U.K.'s Model Shipwright "quarterly" publication (actually a hardcover book). In the Twiggy-era late 60's, early seventies, a tie was optional as the fellow on the left confirms. However, looking on the rear cover of the same issue, some modelers chose not only to wear a suit and tie, but also an attractive chapeau (second photo).

While HMS Camilla is removed from her water setting and while I await some painting supplies, I decided to make her mainmast pennant and have some fun with the various figures that will be her "minimalist" crew. First and foremost, Cpt Pennypincher was in hospital for some emergency surgery (a toothpick for a right wooden lower leg). After a few days of PT, Pennypincher made his way to Camilla's deck without assistance. Captains Pennypincher and Wigglesworth had a natter about who will command Camilla once she's put into service. There's controversy at the Admiralty about a commanding officer in His Majesty's Service having a "disability;" "Do you not feel your impairment will compromise your ability to lead His Majesty's frigate?" C.W. Wigglesworth postulates. "Bollocks!" asserts Pennypincher: "My new leg is as good as new. When my men see I am fully capable of being their Captain, the consequences for their enhanced esprit de corps are immeasurable." Pennypincher further reminds Wigglesworth of an important precedent: "Do you not agree Admiral Lord Nelson's missing right arm does not impair his judgement and ability to lead?" Wigglesworth retorts: "Sir, you insult me by having no hesitation to compare yourself favorably with his excellency Lord Nelson!" ...to be continued as Camilla's crew members weigh-in on the argument...in the interim... HMS Camilla's mainmast pennant catching the following wind. Its halyard was tricky to terminate to the top truck but it's convincing enough to my eye in 1/64 scale. The long pennant is made from two thicknesses of 28lb printed copier paper imaged from a PDF file of the shape. After gluing the two printed layers together and trimming them, I carefully wrapped the long laminated strip around three different paint bottles to get the gentle curves. The result of the two-layered paper is holding well so far. To achieve a convincing shaped form, the previous pennant I made had a 30 ga. annealed florist's wire enclosed between the two layers running the entire length; my new approach to making this flag may - or may not- hold...I'll see if I need to return to a previous technique over the next few weeks.

Those who are following my Build Log here should also look at @Beckmann current log for his recently completed HMS Unicorn diorama. His water making technique is similar to mine with his use of simple plaster that's been shaped into a convincing seascape. He's done a great job with the choice of colors and details on the water surfaces to surround his model, right up to its boundaries that touch the perimeter of the artisan's crafted cabinet - a novel and beautiful complement to his model's diorama - as well as his living space!

NEW RULE for MSW modelers: Suit & Tie at Your Bench

I just caught-up with earlier posts on your thread, Brian. The Master Korabel kit looks like a fun and quite different project to tackle. From my experience, the MK kits are excellent as long as you can read Russian. Actually, their kits have well-photographed instructions and the included translated docs aren't perfect but still helpful. Most important, the materials and vessel designs are excellent, including clever building jigs you make for tricky assembly parts. You'll like this one and you'll have a bunch of followers once you start a log for the Russki submarine - including me. (...word of caution: don't wait too long though, the Ukrainian Navy has some new Naval drones coming...)

Presumably, you mean HMS Granado and not your wife.😳

Brian, Your Granado is looking great. Your color choices thus far are very tasty - in a word: "Sweet."

Welcome. You're in the Right Spot, Mark - 100 PERCENT.

👍🤜🤛 High Five and fist bumps - Fun for me too!

Now that it's dried, it's time to turn the smoothed plaster surface into water, as follows: Water-thinned white glue, a stiff brush and a roll of SINGLE-PLY toilet paper. The following close-up photos are pretty self-explanatory, assorted views of what happens when you "work" the toilet tissue to the plaster surface to create small rivulets, washes and wind "wrinkles." Some of the textures will become wave peaks. There are lots of "happy accidents" in this phase of water making. If a straight line appears, get rid of it by manipulating the stiff brush. An ugly wad appears, pick it off, start over with another piece of torn paper, work the paper so that it makes random textures. Tear-off various sizes of paper too, no straight edges! NOTE BENE: these intense close-ups make the water surface resemble the the surface of the moon or Mars. From a normal viewing distance these details will transform into an ocean that's being troubled by an intense wind. A piece of toilet paper that hasn't been "worked" into a water shape. NG! These straight edges need to be reworked while the paper and glue is still wet... Love how this appeared! TP edges in the previous pic mostly disappeared; paint color and acrylic wave build-up details will mask the tiny irregularities. This lumpy splooge will be a "back wash wavelet" atop the Bigger Wave that Camilla's bow is smashing against. This is a tedious step (like some aspects of rigging!), but well worth the effort. The entire surface of the diorama gets this toilet paper treatment, even the smoother sections. Almost done (with this step). In time terms, we've moved past a halfway mark for the diorama's water creation. The "arty stuff" is coming-up soon: a handful of acrylic paints and various mediums. My "Easter Egg." For posterity, of course. My father also left his initials on the inside of his "Fly" head (see my previous post response to OldSalt1950). Taking a "break" now on the diorama. Touch-ups and then choosing the colors for painting comes next. And, I'm returning to loose ends on the model: a lengthy Mainmast pennant to make (another trip to Staples), dozens of rope coils to hang, loose rigging lines to nail down, tying down a launch and the spare topmast on the midship skids, even clean freshly- laundered britches for Cpt Wigglesworth.

I too have fond memories working with my father. Dad was a designer for W.E.D. Enterprises in Burbank, CA in the late 50's (Walter E. Disney) and I spent countless hours in his shop watching him make incredible things from commonplace materials: an artist, artisan, engineer, animator, carpenter, he didn't make train layouts but I did watch him as he created the head for the 1958 movie, "The Fly" - the original film. Yep, that now classic film with Vincent Price. That was a highlight of being a 12 yo. in Dad's creative space. Putting the fake fly head on and scaring the crap out of people is a lifelong "highlight" of my youth. He made the head on contract for the movie studio (I believe 20th-C Fox) after his work on the original Disneyland in Anaheim, CA. Check out this URL: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Fly_(1958_film) I'm my father's son, in the gene pool, for sure. And Dad nurtured "all things creative"- and that (nearly) anything was possible: if you could think it, you could do it... Peak America.

Thanks, Mr. T - much appreciated. Pink insulation foam is the bomb. You can carve it, hot wire it, saw it, hell - in a pinch - I'd bet you could eat it. And, available in various thicknesses, it's relatively inexpensive and comes in inconvenient sizes and working it can be pretty messy at times.😂 Train layout people use pallet loads of the stuff for building massive mountains over tunnels with distant mountain shapes, steep canyon walls and bluffs. You can also attach just about anything to it (with the right adhesive). These WIP pics of my "Takes A Village..." diorama project show how the foam (as a built-up base) and large plaster features on the ShaperSheet can be fashioned to create a realistic rocky coastline (post-painting and terrain "populating" here). For this diorama, I chose to not depict a dramatic sea and simply poured Woodland Scenics colored resin for my water feature(s) after I made a "dam" around the model ship's cutout in the pink foam base (layers of foam board below the "rock" clearly are seen on the left side). Once the stiff aluminum ShaperSheet is coated with plaster its not going anywhere; as I mentioned previously, it dries hard as a rock. The elevated wave sections (mostly the large one at Camilla's bow) do need support as well as some smaller raised sections placed around the hull; these areas do benefit from the smaller shaped foam pieces I've mounted. Risking exaggeration - and I haven't tried this - I'd bet that I could practically stand most anywhere on the finished, plastered ShaperSheet water and it would not collapse. Tuff stuff. 😳

I’ve learned a lot from my previous Connecticut ship modeling club members who are also superlative train layout hobbyists; award-winning stuff. They create terrain obviously but many also include water features. Woodland Scenics is a ‘go to’ staple for making train layouts. I’ve adapted some train terrain materials, like the use of insulation foam sheets and the plaster shaping materials. My use of the aluminum ShaperSheet is original, however. I figured that I could use this material to build-up a seascape to make it more dynamic. My first diorama was mostly a flat sea presentation where I principally learned how to combine paints and acrylic mediums to create translucency. I combined this knowledge and skill to adding “depth” in my following dioramas with the techniques I’ll continue to show here. YouTube is a tremendous resource for ‘borrowing’ techniques the trainheads use. Most ship model dioramas are in smaller scales, like 1/96, 1/150, 1/350, and smaller. The water scenarios are typically in small footprints and the water surfaces require less detail to be realistic. These dioramas can be very impressive, especially for steel navy presentations. At the scale I build, 1/64 predominantly, it’s a different ballgame; considerably more water detail over a much larger surface area has to be re-created - especially the dynamics of making water “kinetic.” Also, I’ve sailed on the ocean and have a good knowledge how water looks and behaves. Please continue to follow my Build and you’ll see some very detailed, additional techniques that when combined create some amazingly realistic settings.