hollowneck

I hate macro, or rather it hates me as it is so good at pointing out imperfections.   🤔
I doubt anyone but you will notice tiny mistakes when viewing your model, so be happy as your work really is good!
One thing I noticed in your close up are square axles for the trucks on the carriages.  Hope you don't mind an idea for the future.  If you want to round the ends so the trucks could turn rather than leaving them square you can make a little brass rod cutter with a hole drilled  the size of the axle and a couple cross cuts on the face with a razor saw or hacksaw to create  cutting edges.  Chuck this cutter in a drill press or some other and it will round the end portion axle in a second.      Allan

The Guns
 
Time to assemble the cannon. Flirt has teeny tiny 4 pounders, the smallest I’ve ever seen. Admiral Cochrane noted he could carry the full broadside of cannon balls for his sister ship Speedy in his pockets, of that I have no doubt.
 

 
As we know assembling 14 of anything is a repetitive process calling for a production line of shorts. I started with one to determine what process I wanted to use to get these done. First up is building a jig. Flirt’s carriages are typical for this scale consisting of six components. Always looking for an opportunity for using my mill, I carved out a block that would allow the four main pieces to be glued together consistently. Just grooves for the axels and perpendicular deeper grooves for the carriage sides, nothing fancy.
 

 
Sooo much sanding of small small parts as I moved past the first prototype (shown in the previous post) into production. I use the plastic cups to keep all the parts separated (piled up here for the photo) and pull them out as I go.
 

 
I kept it simple for this model rounding the char off the wheels by inserting them onto my round file and just spinning them in my hand against a 320 and 400 grit sanding blocks. The challenge is to sand only the char and not reduce the wheel in size while I’m doing it. I’d automate this more for larger wheels and more cannon but this worked fine for the 56 wheels needed. I also used the round file to adjust as necessary for axel fit. For this model I’m leaving the wheels natural.
 

 
Off to the paint shed. I shared in an earlier post how I’ve gone to the dark side and purchased an air brush. I do like how it worked for the gun carriages, keeping the paint thin enough to show the laser etched sides (even at this tiny size, @Chris provides nice details with his laser talents). Plus it took only minutes to paint all 14, I’m an airbrush convert, for some things, I still prefer the brush for most work. It takes as long to clean the thing as it does to do the paint work.
 
As shown in the photo I also painted the resin cannon with black primer. These cannon did require some removal of sprue, I felt like I was a kid again building plastic airplane models, but it really wasn't a lot. They do look so much better than the old metal ones, a lot easier to provide detail when casting them this way, even the crest is there. The black primer, with its matte finish was all I needed before applying Doc O’Brien’s Weathering Powder (Rusty Brown) to the barrels and buffing it down with a series of soft brushes I have for only this purpose. They have to be handled carefully after that but are easily buffed back up if necessary, no sealant (like Dullcoat) is needed in this case, though of course it wouldn’t hurt if so inclined.
 

 
A new production line is set up for rigging the carriages, barrels, eyebolts, and trucks. I feel bad now for encouraging @Derek to fully rig his cannon on his Speedy, no way I’m doing that on these little guys for Flirt. I am including breeching lines though. That required drilling holes and adding the required eyebolts and rings to the carriages. So out came the Quad Hands and the rigging box.
 
I used .018 light brown Syren line and made a little jig for pre-rigging them, identical to the one I used for Cheerful…just smaller. I determined two inches to be the length of completed breeching rope I wanted.
 

 
I’ve seen some posts recently about difficulty in tying knots, there is nothing simpler than this standard seizing method, basically the same way a hook is tied to a fishing line. I’ve tied hundreds of these, the Quad Hands makes it easy.
 

 
Normally I toss trunnions provided with a kit, if they are at all, and make my own. However the ones Chris provides in the PE are perfect, not only nice details but more importantly thin enough to fit properly on the carriage without looking out of scale. With a little assist from a drill bit to pre-bend after being primed and then painted Ironworks Black, they laid nicely onto the carriage after the barrel was glued in. They get the weathering powder brush too after being installed.
 

 
Here’s a completed gun ready to mount, a couple of points:
 
While I appreciate Chris for including eyebolts as part of the kit PE, They just looked to heavy for my tastes so I opted for the standard Amati commercial eyebolts, blacked from their copper start, on the gun. I did use the kit provided ones on the bulwarks. There weren’t enough for the breeching ropes anyway, plus the larger commercial rings are a better look here in my opinion.
 
I softened the edge of the axels with a file, I tried rounding one with sandpaper and it broke off, there just isn’t a lot of wood there. I suppose I could have rounded them even more with the file, but frankly they are so small they aren’t noticeable at a normal viewing distance. It just wasn’t worth the breakage risk or the time. More power to all of you who did or will. In my imagination the part within the truck is rounded from use.
 
I always recommend rigging the breeching rope in advance of mounting the gun(or any guns on any model) as shown here. So much easier than trying to fit all of it on board the deck. If I were installing gun tackle, and I have no intention to do that on this model, I’d make them up off the ship but fit them once the gun is placed - that involves two hooks into two rings once they are made up, a simpler task.
 

 
These guns are really small - the carriage will sit on my thumbnail. The sailors on these ships must of felt they’d be just as well off throwing the cannon balls at attacking ships.
 

 
With that the starboard battery is mounted, I need a break before moving on to the port side. I’m going to work on the deck furniture next for a change of pace.
 

 
A closer look at the mounted battery. I have also installed the pin rails and all bulkhead cleats. I’m going to use these 8mm belaying pins acquired from Crafty Sailor instead of the PE ones provided with the kit, just sitting in this one rail at the moment for a test look. While I left the trucks natural and sanded off the bulk of the char I elected to leave a bit so they looked like they’d rolled about the deck (or maybe it was due to laziness, who knows). I’m sure these near macro shots will expose lots of flaws, still I think it all came out ok.  Did I mention they are tiny.
 
Thanks for stopping by with your likes and comments. Until next time…

I don’t think this is where they go:


 
After a week of watching our grandkids while their parents were out of town and then finally getting back in the field for my photography with a week in the Smoky Mountains, both weeks great fun, I got back to Flirt. Each small item takes time to do right. Removing char, especially for items I’m leaving natural boxwood, takes time. There are some very tiny parts involved. 
 
Before I mount all the completed deck furniture I have to install the port guns. I’ve put it off as long as I can. 
 
After that I’ll complete the hull with the channels. Yay. 
 
Thanks for stopping by. 

The use of the thin tape to make the reinforcing rings is very clever and looks very convincing Toni!

Vanguard carronade "kits" pictured here. Got to order these pretty soon. They'll mount behind the built-up bulwarks on the quarterdeck per late 18th-century upgrades to these 6th-rates (4 on the q'dec k). These new and improved bashing weapons were a very effective tech innovation for close actions in boarding/marauding, capturing prizes. Sort of like depth charges for destroyers to go after submarines; game changer, sort of.
 
Ron

Before I button-up and mount the patterns to the beams for the forecastle and the quarterdecks, one last look at some details. The engineering in this kit is particularly impressive with the extensive provisions for the upper deck beams, stem and stern (foc'sle & q'deck). Again, the tolerances with all these pieces are exacting, the fits precise; this can be easily verified by placing one of the two deck patterns into position and seeing if there is much "play" from side-to-side, or front-to-back: I measured less than .15 -.20 in both deck positions. Stated in fractions this is approximately 1/64". If you've sanded and glued all the (many) beams in place carefully you'll be pleasantly surprised how easy it is to mount and glue a precisely-cambered deck in-place, with a minimum of sanding and trimming.
 
 

A view of what you'll see peeking out from under the foc'sle after the deck gets mounted. Not much. Goodbye beautiful little oven...
 

The quarterdeck beam and carling structure: impressive. CTBR (Char To Be Removed), my new acronym for builder/followers of this log. Correct: I didn't bother making or installing the second cabin screens beyond the capstan. None of this additional fine detail will be viewed in my particular build. Perhaps, if someone uses a high-intensity flashlight and looks through the stern lights they might see the parquet flooring in the captain's cabin. No cannons in the officer's quarters. No hinges, window mullions nor doorknobs on the cabin screens, despite these superb little gems (mostly tiny P/E) that are provided in a revealed "Admiralty-styled"  version of the kit.
 
 

The foc'sle deck pattern should be flush with the engraved pear MDF beam overlay. The kit provides plenty of sanding margin for these deck pieces. I actually sliced-off about 3/64" with an X-acto, since it's a straight cut across the pattern at the rearmost beam. The fit all-round to the pinnacle of the stem and along the sweep of the bulwarks revealed very little "play." Circled here, this is what you want to shoot for, tight to the edge of the beam and all the way across from starboard to port interior bulwark. I removed a little residual overhang with a sanding file to flush it, side-to-side.
 
 

Char removed from the foc'sle beams and carlings. Cathead slots are not deep enough here (fixed). One set of the "Y" bitt posts are glued in position; this will help to locate the proper position of the deck pattern. Builders of the kit will see I also omitted the clever little doors to the galley area: this detail covered-up what little would be seen of my oven.
 

Test fitting the quarterdeck pattern to the interior bulwarks. The clamp is holding one of two additional bulwarks pear finishing pieces that build-up the thickness (and adds the attractive pear boarding) in this quite visible area. Note how precise the volute layers line up, three layers visible on the left. This area will also get MORE thickness with additional layering so it is reasonably critical to get this part of the build correct in the previous build steps. Here, my oak stain colors the edges. Once all components that make-up this volute are in place, I'll use a recommended small file to shape these attractive elements of this ship's decorative pieces, then re-finish. The interior gangway and the gunwale will fit into this tight area very precisely.
 
 

Another close-up view of the fit at the quarterdeck. Make sure the deck meets the forebeam area flush like the foc'sle pear decoration. I also trimmed this part of the deck pattern with a straight across cut that removed about 1/64". The slots above the gunport are for the gangway supports. The hanging knees on the far side of where a cannon will be mounted will hardly be visible, but for me, they're worth the time to make and mount. The etched spirketting piece, deck clamp and added waterway are visible, as is the added bit of pear to the sill I added to all my (visible) gunports (14).
 

A good view of the highly-detailed oven that few will see besides me (and my wife). This is made from a clever combo of pear and P/E pieces. For realism, I even rubbed grey chalk on the bricks to simulate ash, thinking this might invoke an aroma of a tasty roast beef pudding for Camilla's officers. Only I will ever know this detail: sometimes this can be part of the fun of doing what we dedicated ship modelers do.
 
That's still my story and I'm sticking to it.
 
Ron

Richard
This is the Jig I use.
It is good for blocks, dead eyes, rigging hooks, eyes and just loops.
I clamp the base to the desk.

Then use a modified clothes peg, push a long pin through holes in the peg and the hole in the block.

Then the peg fits into the base. There is a 'dowel' on the peg and a hole for the pin.

Thread is fed through around the block, caught with a clip and an elastic band tensions the thread.

I then seize the number of turns I want using the traditional ‘trapped loop’ method.

I pull the end of the thread through the loop and pull out the loop. Push the siezing up tight to the block.

Take out of jig, paint with 50/50 PVA and trim when dry.

 
I'm sure some will think this overkill.
But I have done hundreds of blocks (even the smallest of sizes), loops, eyes etc. so have gotten pretty slick.
And I love the way the it looks.
 
Nick

I suggest you apply CA to the end of the line and while it is still wet use your fingers to taper the end of the line - just apply pressure to the line and draw the line between your fingers.  This is often adequate but you can also try to cut the end of the line at an angle after the CA is applied.  A sharp blade is necessary.  I usually cut the line at an angle.

If you don't want to use plaster, consider using plywood backing before clamping to even the pressure or maybe ply backing and tape to close the mould.  I have never cast metal but know bad things can happen.  Resin might be easier to use and capture better detail at the beginning of the learning curve.

Before I button-up and mount the patterns to the beams for the forecastle and the quarterdecks, one last look at some details. The engineering in this kit is particularly impressive with the extensive provisions for the upper deck beams, stem and stern (foc'sle & q'deck). Again, the tolerances with all these pieces are exacting, the fits precise; this can be easily verified by placing one of the two deck patterns into position and seeing if there is much "play" from side-to-side, or front-to-back: I measured less than .15 -.20 in both deck positions. Stated in fractions this is approximately 1/64". If you've sanded and glued all the (many) beams in place carefully you'll be pleasantly surprised how easy it is to mount and glue a precisely-cambered deck in-place, with a minimum of sanding and trimming.
 
 

A view of what you'll see peeking out from under the foc'sle after the deck gets mounted. Not much. Goodbye beautiful little oven...
 

The quarterdeck beam and carling structure: impressive. CTBR (Char To Be Removed), my new acronym for builder/followers of this log. Correct: I didn't bother making or installing the second cabin screens beyond the capstan. None of this additional fine detail will be viewed in my particular build. Perhaps, if someone uses a high-intensity flashlight and looks through the stern lights they might see the parquet flooring in the captain's cabin. No cannons in the officer's quarters. No hinges, window mullions nor doorknobs on the cabin screens, despite these superb little gems (mostly tiny P/E) that are provided in a revealed "Admiralty-styled"  version of the kit.
 
 

The foc'sle deck pattern should be flush with the engraved pear MDF beam overlay. The kit provides plenty of sanding margin for these deck pieces. I actually sliced-off about 3/64" with an X-acto, since it's a straight cut across the pattern at the rearmost beam. The fit all-round to the pinnacle of the stem and along the sweep of the bulwarks revealed very little "play." Circled here, this is what you want to shoot for, tight to the edge of the beam and all the way across from starboard to port interior bulwark. I removed a little residual overhang with a sanding file to flush it, side-to-side.
 
 

Char removed from the foc'sle beams and carlings. Cathead slots are not deep enough here (fixed). One set of the "Y" bitt posts are glued in position; this will help to locate the proper position of the deck pattern. Builders of the kit will see I also omitted the clever little doors to the galley area: this detail covered-up what little would be seen of my oven.
 

Test fitting the quarterdeck pattern to the interior bulwarks. The clamp is holding one of two additional bulwarks pear finishing pieces that build-up the thickness (and adds the attractive pear boarding) in this quite visible area. Note how precise the volute layers line up, three layers visible on the left. This area will also get MORE thickness with additional layering so it is reasonably critical to get this part of the build correct in the previous build steps. Here, my oak stain colors the edges. Once all components that make-up this volute are in place, I'll use a recommended small file to shape these attractive elements of this ship's decorative pieces, then re-finish. The interior gangway and the gunwale will fit into this tight area very precisely.
 
 

Another close-up view of the fit at the quarterdeck. Make sure the deck meets the forebeam area flush like the foc'sle pear decoration. I also trimmed this part of the deck pattern with a straight across cut that removed about 1/64". The slots above the gunport are for the gangway supports. The hanging knees on the far side of where a cannon will be mounted will hardly be visible, but for me, they're worth the time to make and mount. The etched spirketting piece, deck clamp and added waterway are visible, as is the added bit of pear to the sill I added to all my (visible) gunports (14).
 

A good view of the highly-detailed oven that few will see besides me (and my wife). This is made from a clever combo of pear and P/E pieces. For realism, I even rubbed grey chalk on the bricks to simulate ash, thinking this might invoke an aroma of a tasty roast beef pudding for Camilla's officers. Only I will ever know this detail: sometimes this can be part of the fun of doing what we dedicated ship modelers do.
 
That's still my story and I'm sticking to it.
 
Ron

Vanguard carronade "kits" pictured here. Got to order these pretty soon. They'll mount behind the built-up bulwarks on the quarterdeck per late 18th-century upgrades to these 6th-rates (4 on the q'dec k). These new and improved bashing weapons were a very effective tech innovation for close actions in boarding/marauding, capturing prizes. Sort of like depth charges for destroyers to go after submarines; game changer, sort of.
 
Ron

Before I button-up and mount the patterns to the beams for the forecastle and the quarterdecks, one last look at some details. The engineering in this kit is particularly impressive with the extensive provisions for the upper deck beams, stem and stern (foc'sle & q'deck). Again, the tolerances with all these pieces are exacting, the fits precise; this can be easily verified by placing one of the two deck patterns into position and seeing if there is much "play" from side-to-side, or front-to-back: I measured less than .15 -.20 in both deck positions. Stated in fractions this is approximately 1/64". If you've sanded and glued all the (many) beams in place carefully you'll be pleasantly surprised how easy it is to mount and glue a precisely-cambered deck in-place, with a minimum of sanding and trimming.
 
 

A view of what you'll see peeking out from under the foc'sle after the deck gets mounted. Not much. Goodbye beautiful little oven...
 

The quarterdeck beam and carling structure: impressive. CTBR (Char To Be Removed), my new acronym for builder/followers of this log. Correct: I didn't bother making or installing the second cabin screens beyond the capstan. None of this additional fine detail will be viewed in my particular build. Perhaps, if someone uses a high-intensity flashlight and looks through the stern lights they might see the parquet flooring in the captain's cabin. No cannons in the officer's quarters. No hinges, window mullions nor doorknobs on the cabin screens, despite these superb little gems (mostly tiny P/E) that are provided in a revealed "Admiralty-styled"  version of the kit.
 
 

The foc'sle deck pattern should be flush with the engraved pear MDF beam overlay. The kit provides plenty of sanding margin for these deck pieces. I actually sliced-off about 3/64" with an X-acto, since it's a straight cut across the pattern at the rearmost beam. The fit all-round to the pinnacle of the stem and along the sweep of the bulwarks revealed very little "play." Circled here, this is what you want to shoot for, tight to the edge of the beam and all the way across from starboard to port interior bulwark. I removed a little residual overhang with a sanding file to flush it, side-to-side.
 
 

Char removed from the foc'sle beams and carlings. Cathead slots are not deep enough here (fixed). One set of the "Y" bitt posts are glued in position; this will help to locate the proper position of the deck pattern. Builders of the kit will see I also omitted the clever little doors to the galley area: this detail covered-up what little would be seen of my oven.
 

Test fitting the quarterdeck pattern to the interior bulwarks. The clamp is holding one of two additional bulwarks pear finishing pieces that build-up the thickness (and adds the attractive pear boarding) in this quite visible area. Note how precise the volute layers line up, three layers visible on the left. This area will also get MORE thickness with additional layering so it is reasonably critical to get this part of the build correct in the previous build steps. Here, my oak stain colors the edges. Once all components that make-up this volute are in place, I'll use a recommended small file to shape these attractive elements of this ship's decorative pieces, then re-finish. The interior gangway and the gunwale will fit into this tight area very precisely.
 
 

Another close-up view of the fit at the quarterdeck. Make sure the deck meets the forebeam area flush like the foc'sle pear decoration. I also trimmed this part of the deck pattern with a straight across cut that removed about 1/64". The slots above the gunport are for the gangway supports. The hanging knees on the far side of where a cannon will be mounted will hardly be visible, but for me, they're worth the time to make and mount. The etched spirketting piece, deck clamp and added waterway are visible, as is the added bit of pear to the sill I added to all my (visible) gunports (14).
 

A good view of the highly-detailed oven that few will see besides me (and my wife). This is made from a clever combo of pear and P/E pieces. For realism, I even rubbed grey chalk on the bricks to simulate ash, thinking this might invoke an aroma of a tasty roast beef pudding for Camilla's officers. Only I will ever know this detail: sometimes this can be part of the fun of doing what we dedicated ship modelers do.
 
That's still my story and I'm sticking to it.
 
Ron

Making the kit's gangways. As is clear here, a wooden ship modeler can never have too many clamps (or have too much money). BE CAREFUL with these two-part pattern pieces. They require adroit clamping (after applying regular TiteBond to the thicker etched pattern, not the thin pear one). The edges will peel apart unless you clamp all along both sides - and at the ends. How do I know this? Don't ask. I had to re-glue the first one which opened-up.
 
I'm nearly ready to mount the ship's chains and deadeyes. First things, first: stain all the deadeyes in the color "Chestnut." Admittedly, this is a subtle color change from the provided oak-colored deadeyes. However, this color is a more accurate representation of actual pulley blocks and deadeyes of the era that were often made from English chestnut. Imagine that! English chestnut for His Majesty's Royal Navy.
 
I'm also looking waaaay ahead for accurately-sized belaying pins when it comes to rigging. These puppies are sweet! I'm going with the slightly larger ones after testing them in a sample bitt piece. Ten pieces at 9mm - anything else here you need to go to Google Translate. From Russia, With Love, I say: Falkonet. Like Vanguard, this relatively new kit company (as well as offering numerous pear bits n' pieces) also specializes in Awesome. 
 
Last photo here: the saw I use for the cathead and MDF chain pump surgery.
 
 

Ahhhh, yes. Gotta read the fine print.
Evergreen can be everyone's Friend. But it begs the existential question: "Grasshopper: do wood and plastic go together?"
Thanks, Ken.

Before I button-up and mount the patterns to the beams for the forecastle and the quarterdecks, one last look at some details. The engineering in this kit is particularly impressive with the extensive provisions for the upper deck beams, stem and stern (foc'sle & q'deck). Again, the tolerances with all these pieces are exacting, the fits precise; this can be easily verified by placing one of the two deck patterns into position and seeing if there is much "play" from side-to-side, or front-to-back: I measured less than .15 -.20 in both deck positions. Stated in fractions this is approximately 1/64". If you've sanded and glued all the (many) beams in place carefully you'll be pleasantly surprised how easy it is to mount and glue a precisely-cambered deck in-place, with a minimum of sanding and trimming.
 
 

A view of what you'll see peeking out from under the foc'sle after the deck gets mounted. Not much. Goodbye beautiful little oven...
 

The quarterdeck beam and carling structure: impressive. CTBR (Char To Be Removed), my new acronym for builder/followers of this log. Correct: I didn't bother making or installing the second cabin screens beyond the capstan. None of this additional fine detail will be viewed in my particular build. Perhaps, if someone uses a high-intensity flashlight and looks through the stern lights they might see the parquet flooring in the captain's cabin. No cannons in the officer's quarters. No hinges, window mullions nor doorknobs on the cabin screens, despite these superb little gems (mostly tiny P/E) that are provided in a revealed "Admiralty-styled"  version of the kit.
 
 

The foc'sle deck pattern should be flush with the engraved pear MDF beam overlay. The kit provides plenty of sanding margin for these deck pieces. I actually sliced-off about 3/64" with an X-acto, since it's a straight cut across the pattern at the rearmost beam. The fit all-round to the pinnacle of the stem and along the sweep of the bulwarks revealed very little "play." Circled here, this is what you want to shoot for, tight to the edge of the beam and all the way across from starboard to port interior bulwark. I removed a little residual overhang with a sanding file to flush it, side-to-side.
 
 

Char removed from the foc'sle beams and carlings. Cathead slots are not deep enough here (fixed). One set of the "Y" bitt posts are glued in position; this will help to locate the proper position of the deck pattern. Builders of the kit will see I also omitted the clever little doors to the galley area: this detail covered-up what little would be seen of my oven.
 

Test fitting the quarterdeck pattern to the interior bulwarks. The clamp is holding one of two additional bulwarks pear finishing pieces that build-up the thickness (and adds the attractive pear boarding) in this quite visible area. Note how precise the volute layers line up, three layers visible on the left. This area will also get MORE thickness with additional layering so it is reasonably critical to get this part of the build correct in the previous build steps. Here, my oak stain colors the edges. Once all components that make-up this volute are in place, I'll use a recommended small file to shape these attractive elements of this ship's decorative pieces, then re-finish. The interior gangway and the gunwale will fit into this tight area very precisely.
 
 

Another close-up view of the fit at the quarterdeck. Make sure the deck meets the forebeam area flush like the foc'sle pear decoration. I also trimmed this part of the deck pattern with a straight across cut that removed about 1/64". The slots above the gunport are for the gangway supports. The hanging knees on the far side of where a cannon will be mounted will hardly be visible, but for me, they're worth the time to make and mount. The etched spirketting piece, deck clamp and added waterway are visible, as is the added bit of pear to the sill I added to all my (visible) gunports (14).
 

A good view of the highly-detailed oven that few will see besides me (and my wife). This is made from a clever combo of pear and P/E pieces. For realism, I even rubbed grey chalk on the bricks to simulate ash, thinking this might invoke an aroma of a tasty roast beef pudding for Camilla's officers. Only I will ever know this detail: sometimes this can be part of the fun of doing what we dedicated ship modelers do.
 
That's still my story and I'm sticking to it.
 
Ron

Making the kit's gangways. As is clear here, a wooden ship modeler can never have too many clamps (or have too much money). BE CAREFUL with these two-part pattern pieces. They require adroit clamping (after applying regular TiteBond to the thicker etched pattern, not the thin pear one). The edges will peel apart unless you clamp all along both sides - and at the ends. How do I know this? Don't ask. I had to re-glue the first one which opened-up.
 
I'm nearly ready to mount the ship's chains and deadeyes. First things, first: stain all the deadeyes in the color "Chestnut." Admittedly, this is a subtle color change from the provided oak-colored deadeyes. However, this color is a more accurate representation of actual pulley blocks and deadeyes of the era that were often made from English chestnut. Imagine that! English chestnut for His Majesty's Royal Navy.
 
I'm also looking waaaay ahead for accurately-sized belaying pins when it comes to rigging. These puppies are sweet! I'm going with the slightly larger ones after testing them in a sample bitt piece. Ten pieces at 9mm - anything else here you need to go to Google Translate. From Russia, With Love, I say: Falkonet. Like Vanguard, this relatively new kit company (as well as offering numerous pear bits n' pieces) also specializes in Awesome. 
 
Last photo here: the saw I use for the cathead and MDF chain pump surgery.
 
 

Ahhhh, yes. Gotta read the fine print.
Evergreen can be everyone's Friend. But it begs the existential question: "Grasshopper: do wood and plastic go together?"
Thanks, Ken.

Decorations Commencing.
 
I am Actually enjoying this a lot, every 5 minutes i spend on the model gives visible changes
 

 
(yes, i noticed now i have forgotten to clean up one of the vertical tabs of the molding, cant really do anything about it now, maybe will try to rip it out but i am afriad that it would damage too much around it)

I'm going to take that same approach.  Somewhere, I messed up in lining off the hull or maybe tapering the blanks.  Not a big issue but I'm not happy with the planking and it's no fault of Chris or anyone else but me..  A good sanding and paint.   I've been looking at models of this time period (via Google and museums) and am leaning toward white stuff up to the water line and then black down to the waterline.   I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

True.   But since I am not rigging this model due to storage limitations those joints would be fairly visible.

I have cut the vertical Tabs connecting the long pieces together with a thin knife plade and i use a file and sandpaper only between the places the Tabs have been. 
 
When glued to the model, the Cuts will be hidden behind the supporting knees of the chainplates/Channel so even if they are smaller by a tiny bit, it wont be visible (if you wanted to Look at those places on the finished model, you'd have to Look behind the assortment of lanyards connecting the deadeyes) 

I have a lot of pear left and cutting such thin pieces should not be too big of a problem, i am not sure tho, if i'd be able to make those scrapes

Making the kit's gangways. As is clear here, a wooden ship modeler can never have too many clamps (or have too much money). BE CAREFUL with these two-part pattern pieces. They require adroit clamping (after applying regular TiteBond to the thicker etched pattern, not the thin pear one). The edges will peel apart unless you clamp all along both sides - and at the ends. How do I know this? Don't ask. I had to re-glue the first one which opened-up.
 
I'm nearly ready to mount the ship's chains and deadeyes. First things, first: stain all the deadeyes in the color "Chestnut." Admittedly, this is a subtle color change from the provided oak-colored deadeyes. However, this color is a more accurate representation of actual pulley blocks and deadeyes of the era that were often made from English chestnut. Imagine that! English chestnut for His Majesty's Royal Navy.
 
I'm also looking waaaay ahead for accurately-sized belaying pins when it comes to rigging. These puppies are sweet! I'm going with the slightly larger ones after testing them in a sample bitt piece. Ten pieces at 9mm - anything else here you need to go to Google Translate. From Russia, With Love, I say: Falkonet. Like Vanguard, this relatively new kit company (as well as offering numerous pear bits n' pieces) also specializes in Awesome. 
 
Last photo here: the saw I use for the cathead and MDF chain pump surgery.
 
 

Druxey, thank you for your concern.  These clamps held very securely and were not removed until the mold had cooled to room temperature.  Pictures soon.

There are 22 swivel gun mounts, even though there are only twelve swivel guns.  These were made by photo-etching brass.  Photo-etch is another one of those techniques I rarely use but when you are making several copies of the same piece, it comes in handy.  These pieces were made with the ProEtch system sold by MicroMark.  I designed the pieces in CAD and then laid them out, adding register marks and sprue lines.  As the metal is placed between two pieces of photo-resist, a mirror image of the design is also made.  

 
 The next slide shows the photo-resist sandwich prior to light exposure.  The second one shows the metal after light exposure.  I redid the artwork on the gun mounts after seeing how it came out but did not take additional pictures.  Finally I have a picture of  the empty etching tank.  An aerator allows more uniform etching.


 


 
And here are the results before blackening.