hollowneck

The windlass and stern davit was used for various tasks, one of thich was to help work the anchors with their parent ship, helping lifting the crown so that the anchor could free itself, and the the ships capstan did the work of raising it. The windlass was used to coil the buoy rope.

I have the second in my new line up of alternative printed resin boats almost ready. This is a 24 and 26 foot launch, complete with windlass and davit.

It is time to start rigging the mast.  Some lines are served with an additional layer of line wrapped around them to protect them wherever they would be at risk of damage from rubbing.  On this model, the pendant of tackles, the foremost shroud, the other shrouds above the catharpins and the jeer block strop are served.  Because this is a cross-section, the main and back stays will not be installed but they would also be served.  Standing rigging is protected from water damage with a tar-like compound.  This resulted in a dark brown appearance to the lines.  The running rigging was not protected and so was a natural hemp color.  On this model, the burton pendants and shrouds are standing rigging;  everything else is running rigging
 
Rope sizes are calculated from the diameter of the mast.  The kit contains a table with the dimensions for the various ropes, based on the diameter of the mast.  To measure the diameter of the line, I wrap it around a dowel twenty times, measure the width of the wrapping and divide by twenty.  This is much more accurate than  trying to measure an individual line. The first rope to go over the masthead is the pendant of tackles.  On the topmast, this line is referred to as the burton pendant.  This rope is completely served, and has a thimble on one end.  The other end is spliced to its opposite, resulting in the rope in the diagram below.  Where the red and blue lines meet are splices.  The pendants extend to approximately two feet below the hounds.  They were used with a tackle to raise and lower heavy weights.

To properly rig a model there is no substitute for the appearance of a served line.  I use 6-0 fly tying thread, which can be purchased at a sporting goods store or online.  I start by running thread, from left to right in this case, into the depression between the rope strands (worming), smoothing its surface (the yellow areas seen in the drawing below.  Then I serve the rope from right to left. 

I find it easier to serve short segments of rope, such as this, on the same piece of rope and then cut them apart.  I served the rope, leaving approximately six inches of serving thread for the splices (red circles).

Then I made a diagonal cut, following the lay of the rope ¼” away from the end of the serving.  The unserved line was held against the other line where the splice would go and I wrapped the two lines with the left-over serving thread “splicing” them together.  I continued the wrapping a few more twists to smooth out the transition and tied it off.  A tiny bit of dilute glue held everything together. The pendant was put over the mast head and onto the bolsters.  It was marked on each leg, two feet below the hounds and removed from the mast.  I used blackened 1/16” ID brass tubing for my thimbles.  The mark was placed on the side of the thimble and the pendant was wrapped around it.  For simplicity I used a simple seizing to secure the thimble and put it back on the mast.

 
 
 
 

Everything depended on the size and type of ship.  This little ship only had a lower mast and topmast.

Most kits come with deadeyes and partially completed chains.  Usually, the upper link (the link that goes around the deadeye) is pre-formed, with the bottom cut for insertion of the deadeye.  Wire is provided for the builder to form the other two links but the entire assembly has very little strength and the cut ends of wire are ugly.  The only way to make this assembly stronger and better looking is to solder the links closed.  I prefer silver soldering, even though regular soldering will give sufficient strength.  The benefit of silver soldering is that the metal is fused together rather than connected by a dissimilar metal, tin.  This makes it easier to bend the part without worrying about the solder joint breaking.  The downside is that there is a learning curve and the tools are more expensive.  Silver solder also blackens well.  There are also low melting point silver bearing solders (Tix) which can be blackened. 
 
The measurements for all the parts of a British warship were determined by the Admiralty.  There are reference books that contain this information such as Steel’s Tables.  An easily read version of the tables is sold in the NRG store.  The main mast diameter is given on the plans as 18”.  Using the information from the tables, I determined that the main stay is 9” and the shrouds are 5.5”.   Lines are measured by their circumference. The diameter of the deadeye is 1.5 times the size of the shroud or stay it is attached to, in this case 8 ¼”.  A spreadsheet comes in handy in determining all the measurements.
Let me start by saying that my metal work has a bit to be desired.  The chains are made from 1 ¼” wire, which is 22 gauge.  I temper the wire by drawing it through a gas flame until it glows red.  This makes the wire more malleable and removes any factory applied coating.
 
The deadeye chain is the same length for all the deadeyes.  Make one and use it as a template for the others.  I wrapped wire around the deadeye, leaving long tails, and inserted this into the slot in the channel.  The tails were cut long enough to be able form the loop below the channel.  I removed the deadeye and applied a finish. 

The lower links are all the same length.  From the plans I knew that the toe of the lower link is bolted 5” below the top of the wale and that its overall length was 9”.  Two T-pins were inserted into the soldering board and the wire was wrapped around them, with the cut ends on the side.  The middle link is different for every shroud because each is at a different angle to the mast as seen in the two pictures below.  The link becomes longer with greater angulation of the shroud.  You can see the difference in the shroud angles and how this would affect the length of the middle link.


To determine the angle of the chains, I put masking tape on the hull above and below the channel.  A loop of rope was placed over the mast head and inserted through a slot in the channel.  The angles made by the shroud were transferred to the tape.  I dimpled the wale where the toe of the lower link and the lower preventer chain bolts will be located and removed the tape.

A hole was drilled through the wale where the toe of the lower link would later be bolted.  The lower link and deadeye were temporarily installed. The length of the middle chains was determined by trial and error.  With the deadeye and lower link in place, I formed the middle link from rope the same thickness as the wire and transferred those lengths to wire.  I formed the middle link and soldered it closed, keeping the joint on one of the long sides.  Then I inserted the lower link through the middle link and soldered it. 

A T-pin was pushed into the soldering board and used to form the lower link toe.  The lower link is also bent at the toe, allowing it to lay flat against the wale. 

Finally, the wire for the upper link was passed through the middle link and  soldered.  The deadeye was inserted into the loop and the wire was crimped around it to fit into the channel slot, placing the solder joint in the slot camouflaged it.  

And here are the ten chains, ready for blackening.  The blackening chemical did not damage the wood deadeyes. 

 
After blackening, the chains were installed.  I have a piece of wire temporarily holding the lower link to the wale. 

The preventer plate prevents the bolt securing the lower link from going all the way through the toe. It was made from square bar stock that was forged to the correct shape.  Mine are made from sheet brass, cut and filed to the correct shape.  Just like the middle links, they varied in length. The top of the plate makes a step over the bottom of the lower link toe to cover it. To determine the distance between the bolt holes on the plate, I measured the distance between the toe bolt and the previously marked lower preventer plate bolt and added the diameter of the wire the link was made from.  The sequence is shown in the drawing below. After they were finished, they were blackened and installed.  

To hold the upper links in the channels, a strip of molding was placed over them.  Next up, the rigging begins.

 

Thank you ccoyle the whole model has progressed through each part of build log, constantly having little ideas, some from looking at old photos and some from visiting the Mikasa museum, some from artistic license, the final part with the raised waterline was always in my head, the three quarter effect stems from deciding to display torpedo net extended, anyone deciding on this for their build, would recommend fitting this last as it’s so very easy to knock and damage it am speaking from experience, l damaged it at least three times, very frustrating, only just finished making it a bit better now, never as good as my first attempt though, trying to keep those guy wires straight is a mission for sure. Can safely say won’t be doing another one, that’s me got that out of my system for good 😂  Regarding awards, that was just  so incredibly, never experienced anything like this before but shall always remember humbly the experience. Thanks again ccoyle. 🤛

Oh, there was already some information from you that helped me with my model. Of course, it is always much easier and requires less research when you can use such a detailed report. Funnily enough, it was user CDW's model that brought me to the Mikasa. And don't worry, I'm not a fan of quick construction, I worked on my Battleship Bismarck for almost two and a half years.
So thank you again for sharing this report with us.

Congratulations with the marvelous model, the inspiring buildlog and the many trophys

Wow! That is a fantastic model and display! The awards are well-deserved. Congratulations!

Stupendous result Jeff! What an awesome model. A lot of painstaking work I know but you really brought it home. 

Thanks Canute, it was a long slog for sure, it’s only when you look back at start of build log you realise just how much work goes into something like this, you do forget this as the years roll on, it was a bit stressful near the end in giving myself a deadline, especially when lm so slow, night before show is cutting it fine, in fact didn’t get all the men finished, doing that now, think the Son shall like it. Awards were a very big surprise for me, never had an experience like that, shall always remember this. Again thanks for your support appreciated 🤛

Thanks CDW, it was your build log that initially got me into this, you’ve cost me three years and four months of my life 😂 listening to Jacqueline shouting upstairs, your supposed to be enjoying it, it’s your hobby 😂 Really clad it’s finished now though, looking forward to starting something fresh. Again thanks for your nice comments, means a lot coming from the builder that inspired me in first place, l showed your build log to Jacqueline a few times during your build and she gave me that sceptical look as if to say, you’re going to try and build that 👀  fair thought though l hadn’t completed anything in over forty years, am quite encouraged now😂 🤛

Thanks Yves, have appreciated all your support throughout this build log. Hope this engorges people to have a go at this model, her looks have grown on me as time has past, initially it was all the marvellous detailing by previous builders that encouraged me into this build, first thoughts on her was from the side didn’t have much difference between forward and aft profile but have grown to like it’s appearance. Again thanks for all your nice comments. 🤛

A fantastic diorama for an impressive model. The prizes are well deserved. 
I hope that my Mikasa comes close to the quality of yours.

Just excellent, Jeff. Such a beautiful display and well-deserved awards.

Thanks guys for following this through to its conclusion, it’s been an experience and a half for me. She also did really well at the model show, have to say floored me, winning four Trophies, boy that was unexpected 

Fantastic diorama. So many great ideas in this presentation.
 
Yves

Mahalo, Ron!!  Yes, some folks call it a Texas Tattoo! 
I appreciate you following along.  🤙!!! 
 
 
Thanks for following along, Micha!  Your comments were greatly appreciated and I sincerely hope that you take part in all my future builds!
 
 
Thanks, Mike!  And yes, I finally caved to the pressure and found a way to get a penguin in the bottle.  No doubt they will now want a polar bear or Canadian rat or something in the next one! 😁
 
 
Thanks, Gary.  As a fellow Austin guy, I'm sure you are way too familiar with those cedars trees!  Hope you don't suffer from the allergies like so many around here do. 
 
 
Thanks, Keith.  I was worried about how much the poly darkened the wood, but you make a really good point about the contrast with the white ice and snow.     
 
 
Thanks you, Phil!  Always appreciate you following along.
 
 
Thank you, Paul!  And many thanks for following along.
 
 
Thanks, Ken!  I appreciate you being part of this project.
 
 
Thanks, Bob!  Not sure about the next one yet but hopefully something will come to mind soon.  In the meantime, I'll enjoy checking out you and Captain Marvin on your dual builds!  
 
 
Thank you so much, Steve!  I'm really anxious to see my niece's reaction to it (she knows nothing about it yet).
 
 
Thanks, Grant!  Same comment as above to Steve!!
 
 
 
Thank you so much, Mark and Johnny!  I'm always grateful to hove y'all following along on these projects.
 
 
Hey Pat!  So glad you found this but I certainly did miss your excellent commentary and suggestions along the way.  I've grown accustomed to them on my build logs!  However, as I mentioned to Landlubber Mike above, I don't think the "stalkers" (LOL!) are going to be satisfied with that one tiny penguin!
 
 
Thank you so much, Gary!  And thank for following along!

Another fantastic model, Glen!  Congratulations.  Ditto all the above comments.  A very difficult subject to model but it came out great.  
 
Gary

There I go and not pay close attention to the forum and you sneak another wonderful build under my nose - how dare you!   I don't know how I missed the log. At least it gave me some interesting reading when I found it today (only a month late but I'll put that down to encroaching 'old fella' symptoms). Great to see that you were able to satisfy all those 'stalkers and their penguins' in this build log  .
 
Again you impress with your dioramas providing a very interesting setting and nicely presented SIB.  You should create a 'coffee table' style book of your work mate, it will hold up to any scrutiny.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Your Jenny is stunning - in the best sort of way!

Just an amazing display, Glen.   Literally took my breath away.   

Congratulations on another outstanding SIB Glen. The thought you put into your presentation/stands takes your builds to another level altogether. I’m sure the recipient of this one will be absolutely delighted.

That is incredible!  Nicest gift one could imagine!  Great work and artistry sir!

Fantastic job my friend, you come up with the best ideas, and it's amazing to watch you put it all together. thank you so much for the adventure . Good luck on your next journey, what ever that may be.