Dr PR

Keith, Are you trying to get into Guinness World Records for applying the most coats of finish to a model ship hull?

You might try Duco Cement. This is nitrocellulose dissolved in acetone. It soaks into wood and makes a good bond, and it does adhere to smooth surfaces pretty well. Of course you want to use small amounts and place them away from the window openings. The warnings on the tube say to not use it on polyethylene or polypropylene plastics, but doesn't warn against use on acetate. But I expect it will craze the surface - that should make it adhere better.

I always put a ruler scale in my drawings that need to be printed at an accurate scale. Some printers just do not print at the desired scale, so setting the size to 100% doesn't help. I had a HP printer that always printed undersize so I printed some test sheets to determine the error. After that I set the scale to 1.094 % and the prints came out correctly. On the other hand I have a Brother printer that prints exactly 100% when I disable the "fit to paper" option in the driver.

Keith, I just had the hull sitting on the support stand but otherwise free to move. I doubt I could have put on the tape without moving it. So I put my left hand on the deck and pushed down to hold the hull in position and lightly drew the pencil marks. This is one situation where a hull stand that clamped the keel securely would have come in handy. I may have to do this again to mark the bottom of the boot topping after the new planking layer is added. However, I may just be able to take the center of the third plank down as the bottom of the boot topping. The boot topping should be 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) high, or 12/32, and the planks are 5/32 inch wide. So 2.5 planks will be 12.5/32 (9.9 mm).

I have a bit of progress to report. That third layer of planking on the ships extended from the keel up to 11 feet above the Base Line (a horizontal reference line for length, height and breadth when designing the vessel). That is also about the level of the top of the black boot topping (water line). In trying to decipher some of the blueprints to see exactly where the top and bottom of the boot topping should be I came up with conflicting results. One drawing shows the top of the boot topping 9 inches above the 10 foot water line (DWL). But another suggested it was actually at the 11 foot water line, at the top of the third level of planking. At 1:48 scale that is a 1/16 inch (1.59 mm) difference, and that would be noticeable. Another issue was the placement of the hull seachests. Several were also at the level 11 feet above the Base Line. So the new planking will need small cutouts where it would cover half of these openings. But these openings should also be a reference for the top of the boot topping. You can see in this photo two of the seachests that are at the 11 foot level. And they are quite clearly at the same level as the top of the boot topping. Several other photos show the same. At 1:48 scale the boot topping is 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) wide. So what I needed to do was draw the top of the boot topping at the level of the seachests and then the bottom the appropriate distance below that. OK, now I know where to put the boot topping and the top of the 3rd layer of planking, how was I supposed to mark these lines? In the past I have used some clamps to make a holder for a pencil with the tip the right height above the bench top, and then dragged the assembly over the bench top with the pencil marking the line. But the Cape has a large difference in draft between the bow and stern, so if I placed it with the keel on the bench top the boot topping wouldn't be horizontal. The deck has a lot of sheer, with a short more or less horizontal section over the magtail cable well. I put the hull on a temporary support that I built a while back and used a spirit level to adjust the position in the support frame until a portion of the deck was horizontal as shown in the blueprints. I also checked that several points that were supposed to be equal height above the base line were actually at the same heights with the hull sitting in the support. This put the hull at the proper angle for marking the horizontal boot topping lines. As I said, I have used the pencil in the holder method to mark waterlines in the past, but it always gave me problems on parts of the hull with significant slope or curvature. And the boot topping actually curves far under the stern of the Cape, especially on the bottom of the boot topping. This time to mark the positions of these lines I used a laser level (Bosch GLL50-20) mounted on a tripod. The laser is indifferent to the angles and curvatures of objects, and illuminates a perfectly horizontal line. After checking to be sure the laser line was at the right height both forward and aft, I used a pencil to draw short dash marks about every half inch (12 mm) along the laser line. Then I stretched some masking tape along the dashes, and drew an ink line along the edge of the tape. As you can see in this next photo the upper line runs through the hull seachest openings that are 11 feet above the base line. You can also see the significant sheer the vessel has at about midships. The top of the full hull length part of the new planking will start along the upper line of the boot topping and will be planked down to the keel. The five above water parts of the sheathing to protect the hull from objects moving over the side will be planked from the top of the boot topping up to the guard rail along the main deck edge. Because the 1/64 inch (0.016 inch or 0.4 mm) thick planking will be so thin there should be no problems fitting it to the hull, and on the real ship there were cutouts in this sheathing around the seachests, rudder fairing and such so I will not need to change any of the work I have already done. But fitting it over the garboard strake and keel may be interesting.

Well, I just ordered enough S-Scale 1x10s (0.016 x 0.156 inch, 1/64 x 5/32 inch or 0.39 x 4 mm) basswood strips to plank the hull - again! These are 0.80 x 7.5 inch at 1:48 scale, pretty close to the 0.75 x 7.25 original boards. I ordered the Mt. Albert Scale Stripwood from Fast Tracks https://handlaidtrack.com/?v=0b3b97fa6688 Steve, was your hunch correct? I have a bunch of "micro molding scrapers" from Artesania Latina and one has a 1x4 mm scraper with rounded corners. I was planning on using it to round off the edges of the 1/32 inch boxwood strips to give them the "corduroy" look. I will try it with the 1/64 inch basswood strips. If it works I won't have to mess with the 0.005 inch brass spacer. It probably won't work because the 1/64 inch strips are less than 1 mm thick and will be pretty fragile. If not I may just pull a sharp point along the seam between planks to open them up a bit. In the mean time I may start on the deck planking. But I will have to protect it while I am planking the hull. I also have several more sails to rig on the topsail schooner build. And there is the ship's boat for the schooner!

Gary, Thanks for the link. I'll check it out. There are also places that make scale lumber for doll houses and such. Brian, Thanks for the tip about the propeller. It is a very nice metal casting.

I assume you are using the rubber cement to glue the paper templates to the wood (it is a bad choice for gluing the wooden pieces together). Another member on the forum suggested using Elmer's All Purpose Glue Stick. I have been using that and it works OK. It isn't messy - just rubs on. Most of the paper will peel off if you use a blade to lift it. Any glue and paper that remains will sand off easily.

I ran into a snag today. The last details on the hull - before I start on the deck and deck house - are the lining boards. I posted this image earlier. It shows the lining boards in red. These were to prevent chafing and damage to the hull planking when heavy objects were being lowered or raised over the sides. I could see them in photos, but couldn't find them in the blueprints. I have estimated the width from photos but had no idea what the thickness was. I was planning to use 1/32 x 5/32 inch (0.79 x 4 mm) boxwood strips. But today I was looking through the blueprints once more and found this little detail. The small print at the upper right says" Extend sheathing from worm shoe to 11"-0" above the Base Line throughout ship's length. Extend to Mn. Dk. Guard at following locations ..." And those locations are the areas shown in red in the drawing above! I have known all along that the hull was triple planked with red oak sheathing from just above the waterline to the keel. It was only 3/4 inch (19 mm) thick, and that comes out to be 0.016 inch (0.4 mm) at 1:48 scale. I do have 1/64 inch plywood, but I definitely do not want to try to cut several dozen strips 0.151 inch (3.8 mm) from the plywood! I haven't been able to find any 1/64 inch wood strips so I decided to omit this detail. This is an example of a problem working with blueprints. That one short bit of text is on a large drawing sheet with dozens of other details. This is the only place in hundreds of MSI blueprints that the extended sheathing (lining boards) is mentioned. Now what do I do? If I put the lining boards on the hull I really should plank the hull again all the way down to the worm shoe! That would cover just about all of the hull that I have spent weeks filing, scraping and sanding nice and smooth! If I leave the lining boards off it won't be a very accurate model, and I will know it! And just to make it interesting the blueprints say to leave a 1/4 inch (5 mm) gap between the sheathing boards. This gap wasn't filled, and that is why the linings look like corduroy cloth in the photos. The gaps between the boards were very visible! The gaps would be 0.005 inch (0.127 mm) at 1:48. I could use 0.005 inch brass strips as spacers while I am gluing the boards in place. But where will I find 1/64 x 5/32 inch wood strips? Arrrgghhhh! I thought I was almost finished with the hull! This is getting to be like McHale's Navy again, and that brings us to another Dr Pr's Story Time On one occasion the Cape was sent out ahead of a squadron mine sweeping operation to mark the sweep area. We were pretty much worthless for sweeping mines but we could at least plant a buoy to mark the sweep area. Here you see the crew preparing to drop a Dan Buoy (the orange float around the pole). It had a long pole though the buoy, with a heavy weight suspended on a line from the bottom of the pole. At the top of the pole was a radar corner reflector and a red and yellow "ball." This buoy wasn't made up by the Cape's crew, but was assembled by the Mine Squadron on shore, complete with the anchor line and weight. I suspect they didn't trust us to get it right. I do remember some discussion about the length of the anchor cable, and someone saying that the people who made it knew the water depth, range of the tides and such, and had calculated the necessary length of cable so the buoy wouldn't drift too far away from the anchor point. So we arrived at the sweep area and did multiple visual sightings and radar bearing and ranges to known points on land to be sure we were in the drop spot. The Captain gave the order and the fellows pushed the buoy over the side. It flopped over and floated with the radar reflector in the water! But after a minute or so the buoy suddenly jerked upright in the correct position - and then disappeared under the waves!! The water was pretty clear and we could see the reflector and ball about eight to ten feet (3 meters) below the surface. I may have been a boot ensign with no seafaring experience, but I immediately knew this wasn't right! That reflector wasn't going to be any use because most minesweepers didn't have a sonar. The Cape was indeed a special ship, complete with its 3/4 x 7-1/4 inch red oak sheathing planks spaced 1/4 inch apart just to make building a model more difficult!

Elia, Chuck's blocks are models in themselves. Glad you got the tumbler problem worked out. Your work on the throat crane is very nice! Looks like you have developed the patience to let the saw do its work! I like the New England fishing schooners. I inherited a Bluenose kit many years ago. It was partially built - only started really - and I have been thinking of finishing it as one of the schooners in Chapelle's American Fishing Schooners. Or maybe We're Here from the movie "Captains Courageous."

Bleach (sodium hypochlorite) is your best bet for killing the fungus - we used it in my medical mycology lab to kill the nasties. It was diluted about 1:3 with water. However, what it will do to the old cloth is a question. Do you know what type of cloth was used? If it is silk you have few options. As was suggested above, whatever you use should be tested on a part of a sail that isn't especially noticeable. On thing to remember about fungi (molds) is that they reproduce with spores. These are microscopic "seeds" that are made by the bazillions. Spores are really tough. The only way to kill some of them is steam sterilization (or a blowtorch). If you leave one alive it will eventually germinate and start the problem anew. The fact that you have mold growing on the sails tells me that there is something in the sails that is fungus food. It could be the fibers of the cloth - depending upon the type of cloth. Or it might be some organic compound that was used to color the sails (tea) or perhaps starch that was added to give the sails shape. Starch is just polymerized sugar, and is readily digestible by a lot of critters. After you remove the mold you should wash the sails to remove the mold food.

Steve, I think blackening the guns is good advice. If you do coat the shiny pieces, in time the coating will crack or degenerate, allowing the atmosphere to get to the brass. You could get corrosion under the clear coating. However your Prince is a very pretty model that showcases all of the natural woods that you used - and not painted all over to hide the wood. I do think the shiny brass pieces would look nice on that model. But no bets on what it will look like in 20 years.

Elia, The .heic photo you posted didn't open. It is best to include the photos directly in your posts. JPEG format is good for this. And welcome back. I like schooners so I will be watching.

I have been working on the rudder. It is pretty simple but did require some careful work. First I cut and glued short pieces of 3/32 inch (2.38 mm) brass tubing into the hole in the hull planks and the hole in the end of the stern frame arm. These serve as bushings for the rudder shaft, and also as reinforcement for the wood in the stern frame arm. The 1/16 inch (1.59 mm) brass rod slip fits into the brass tubing. The rod is the shaft for the rudder to rotate on. After all the work is finished the part at the end that is wrapped in blue tape will be cut off. The rudder shaft passed through two concentric fairing plates where the shaft opening entered the hull. I cut the two pieces from 0.005 inch (0.127 mm) brass sheet. These were soldered together to make the assembly. The hole in the fairing slipped over the 3/32 inch brass tube and was glued in place with Duco Cement. A thin stainless sheet with a hole slightly larger than the tubing was slipped over the tube. This served as a shield to protect the fairing and hull as the tube was sawed off and the end filed smooth. The rudder was next. Two pieces of 3/32 inch basswood were cut and a groove was filed into each where the rudder shaft should be. They were glued together (Duco Cement) and the glue allowed to harden. Then a series of successively larger drill bits were used to drill out a 3/32 inch hole through the piece. I used a template with the outline of the cross section of the rudder on it to guide sanding the wood into the proper hydrodynamic shape. Then a longer piece of 3/32 inch brass tubing was cut to length to slip fit between the brass bushings in the hull and stern frame. This tube fits through the hole in the rudder and serves as the rudder shaft. But actually the tube just rotates around the 1/16 inch brass rod. The tube through the rudder also serves another purpose. It is a tight fit between the bushings in the hull and on the stern frame arm. It will prevent the arm from being bent up and breaking off if it is bumped. Just a bit of insurance! The 3/32 (0.094) inch diameter tube is actually a bit undersized for the scale rudder shaft. It really should be about 0.110 inch (2.79 mm) diameter. The next larger size brass tubing is 1/8 inch (3.18 mm) and that is a bit oversize. But I think I will cut a short piece to fit over the top end of the rudder shaft and fill the space between the wood and the fairings on the hull.

This gun was shiny brass in 1969. It hasn't been polished since. It is on a Billings Santa Maria kit - my first kit build. That is about 55 years of tarnish. If you want the guns to stay shiny spray them with clear lacquer or varnish.

Thanks John! But here is something lovelier ... I have been test fitting the stern frame and I drilled the hole for the prop shaft. I started with a small diameter drill and carefully made the hole through the piece. Then I used successively larger drills to expand the hole to 1/8 inch (3.175 mm). Then I clamped the frame onto the hull and drilled the hole for the prop shaft into the keel/piece. To do this I made short pieces of 0.0925 inch (2.34 mm) and 0.125 inch (3.175 mm) diameter brass tubing. The one slips inside the other, and they fit inside the 1/8 inch diameter hole for the prop shaft in the stern frame. Then I used a 1/16 inch (1.59 mm) drill to start the hole - it just fits inside the smaller diameter brass tube. This produced a pilot hole in the keel piece aligned with the prop shaft axis. Then I removed the smaller piece of brass tubing and used a used 3/32 inch (2.38 mm) drill to enlarge the hole. Then the larger piece of brass tube was removed and the hole in the stern frame guided a 1/8 inch drill to finish the hole for the prop shaft. The photo on the right above shows the stern frame fitted over the prop shaft. The prop shaft is a 1/8 inch wood dowel, and it will serve as a peg to align the stern frame to the keel piece and strengthen the bond between the two. The hole in the hull below the arm on the stern frame is for the rudder shaft. The lower end of the rudder shaft will pivot on the arm of the stern frame. This is what is worth celebrating! I have glued the stern frame onto the hull. I have been dreading this because there are so many opportunities for screwing up! But actually it hasn't been all that bad. The Castello boxwood carved easily and it didn't take as long as I thought it would. And drilling the properly aligned hole for the prop shaft was fairly easy. The biggest hassle was filing down the "foot" of the stern frame that rests on the hull planks. I made it about double thickness and spent a couple hours filing it down to get the right fit on the hull. I guess that was the "worst" part of it all. The boxwood is pretty strong, but I worry about that long arm of the stern frame hanging out there just waiting for me to drop the hull or bang it against something to break that part. After I have finished shaping the stern frame piece I will clamp some strong pieces of wood along the sides to protect it. Brass would have been a better material for the stern frame but I just don't have the tools to do it correctly and in a reasonable amount of time.

This is part of the blueprint for the stern frame. The original piece was an aluminum bronze casting. I would have liked to make it of brass, but I don't have the tools to do a good job. I have the tools and a fair amount of experience carving wood so I decided to give that a try. The nice thing about this drawing is it shows a lot of the cross sections, and that tells how to remove material from the piece. The casting had a "foot" projecting forward of the base that fit into a cutout in the keel. I have omitted this foot and cut the piece straight on the forward edge. I have never worked with Castello boxwood before so this was a learning experience. It is a relatively hard wood with fine grain. Growth rings are evident, but there was no noticeable difference in carving the darker and lighter parts. It carved easily with no chipping or splinters, and holds a fine edge. The first thing to do was clean up the rough cut piece and trim to near the lines. I also glued paper outlines of the top, bottom and ends to show where wood needed to be removed. Then I used rasps and files to cut away the unwanted wood until I had a piece of the approximate shape. I completed most of the work in an afternoon. The part shown here is still a bit oversized on all surfaces. I will wait until it is installed on the hull to file and sand the part down to be flush with surfaces on the keel/deadwood. The rudder pivots on the cylindrical part at the end of the long arm. The wide upper part will be shaped to fit flush with the hull planking. I took the advice of bdgiantman2 and got the five blade propeller from Bluejacket Shipcrafters. It is slightly oversized but fits easily in the opening formed by the stern frame. That was a LOT easier than designing a propeller in CAD and then 3D printing it! I plan to use a 1/8 inch (3.175 mm) wooden dowel as the propeller shaft. Epoxy will glue the prop to the shaft. I will use the hole in the stern frame as a template to drill a hole into the keel/deadwood of the hull. The wooden prop shaft will also serve as a pin to help hold the stern frame in place. Now I need to fit the piece to he hull.

Steve, What you are planning looks good to me. There are a couple of things I have done differently: 1. How springy is the fly tying line? I used a fine silk thread to seize lines. When it gets wet it is totally limp and doesn't try to unwind. 2. I used the white glue (Elmer's) to glue the ropes around the blocks. You want the glue to soak into the ropes. I dilute it 1:1 with water. However, the diluted glue does not make a really strong connection with the ropes. One other thing I did was make a "tumbler" and rounded off the edges of the blocks to get a more realistic look. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19611-albatros-by-dr-pr-mantua-scale-148-revenue-cutter-kitbash-about-1815/?do=findComment&comment=981060

I have received the boxwood sheet that I needed for the stern frame. Here are the first steps for creating this piece. The piece cut from the 5/16 inch (7.9 mm) boxwood sheet nicely with the scroll saw. Now I will finish the carving with knives and files. This will take a while!

Mass production has started. Here are 37 coils of 0.012 inch (0.3 mm) rope - 30 finished and 7 in progress. The method I described above works pretty good. So far I have had 6 failures out of 36 attempts - a 16% failure rate. All of these occurred because I got into a rush and failed to follow the steps correctly. Operator error. Actually, on a few I thought I found a better way to loop the rope, and it turned out not to work. Also, the dilute white glue is a VERY weak glue and if the lines are not wrapped correctly the thing falls apart as it is being removed from the pins. However, the rope is still useable and already cut to length, so I just wrapped it again When I am on a roll I can complete wrapping a coil in about 45 seconds. But occasionally I lose control and the rope springs off the pins and I have to start over. Patience is a virtue ... I have found one slight modification that improves success. The last step before applying the white glue is to pull the long end around the pin on the right, to the opposite side of the pin from where the coils would normally wrap. This puts a bit of pull on the rope as it passes the two middle pins. I apply white glue to the side of the loop to the left of the center pins where the long end lays along the other strands to hold it in place after the loop is removed from the pins. With a bit of luck I am about half through this phase of the build. I had an "OH!" moment when I wondered if I had accounted for the 6 inches (152 mm) of rope I was using for these coils when I ordered the rope from Syren? I checked my rigging spreadsheet and I had allowed 7" (178 mm) for most of the rope coils, but only 3.5 inches (89 mm) for those that wouldn't need as many loops. So I was planning ahead. I should have over 100 inches (2.5 meters) excess rope for all the ropes used on the model! Whew!!

Thanks to everyone for the information.

Congratulations on finishing another excellent ship model!

Try again, and again, ..., until you get it right! I think I am getting somewhere. I improved the technique described above, eliminating the knots. As before I have an initial loop to fit over the belaying pin and provide a fixed end to pull on, and a final loop that fits over the belaying pin to hold the rope coils in place. Here you see two coils made with the new method. They look pretty good! No bulging knots and they hang reasonably "naturally." These are test pieces made with carpet thread. I made a new tool, lengthening the distance between posts so the coils would hang almost to the deck. With the new tool I start with a 6 inch (150 mm) piece of rope and have only about an inch (25 mm) of scrap cut off the ends after the coil is finished. Here is the step by step procedure. S = the short, unmoving end of the rope, L = the long end that is wrapped around the posts. 1 and 2 are the two loops that fit over the belaying pin in the pin/fife rail. The arrows show when the ends of the rope are pulled. Be careful to not cut the short end too short! The new fixture has four pins for the rope coils to wind around, placed in an elongated "diamond" or parallelogram pattern (see photos farther down in the post). The fifth pin on the left serves as a pseudo belaying pin. A. I attach a small clamp on to the short end (S) to keep it from moving. Then the long end (L) is pulled around the two pins in the middle of the diamond pattern. This forms the start of loop 1. B. The long end is pulled to the pseudo-belaying pin (left most in picture). C. Now the long end curves back around this pin to start loop 2. It must curve back around the second pin to the left in the picture on the same side as the first leg of the loop. This ensures that loop 2 will be formed correctly to loop around the base of the belaying pin under the rope coils. D. The long end runs all the way to the right around the right most pin and curves around to start making the rope coils. E. The long end continues to wind around the four pins that form the coils until enough turns have been made for the piece that is appropriate for the rigging at a particular belaying point. Some may have fewer turns, and some may have many. F. After all the coils have been made they should be pressed down to make easy access to the end of loop 1. G. Pull the end of loop 1 up through the center between the coils. It was initially looped around the outside of the two central pins. Now it must be lifted over these pins so the "legs" of the loop are free to move inside the coils. This will pull in the short end of the rope. Be sure it doesn't pull in past the left most pin! H. Continue pulling the end of loop 1 back over the second pin from the right. This is where it hooks over the coils. I. Hook the end of loop 1 over the top of the left most pin. Put a twist in the loop as you hook it over the pin. J. Now pull on the short end (S) of the rope to tighten loops 1 and 2 around the left most pin. K. Place a drop of thin white glue on the cluster of ropes around the pin second from the left. The glue must soak into all the ropes at this point so the assembly doesn't become unwound after it is lifted from the pins. Pull the short end (S) back along the side of the coils so it will be glued in this position. L. After the glue has set you can lift the assembly from the pins. Trim the long end (L) to the desired length. Trim the short end (S) fairly close to the glued ropes, but leave a bit between 1 and 2 mm long. I find it useful to place a small drop of cyanoacrylate (CA) glue on this "tail" of the short end just to be sure it doesn't come loose. Here is a photo of the tool and a coil assembly in progress. The four pins of the "diamond" to form the coils are on the top of the tool. The middle two pins serve to open the coils and also serve to form loop 1. The "leftmost" pin in the illustrations above is the ball headed pin on the side of the tool. This represents the belaying pin. This illustrates step C showing how both legs of loop 2 pass on the same side of the left most pin in the diamond. This is important! This is a better view of the tool. I made seven "stations" so several coils can be made at a time. You can see how I use the small clamps to "tame" the rope - it wants to unwind from around the pins. This is step H after the coils have been pushed down on the tool. This is step M after the short end has been pulled to tighten loops 1 and 2 around the "belaying pin" shaft. I apply dilute white glue where the arrows indicate. I soak the bunch of ropes around the pin, and also paint some glue on the ropes down the side of the coil to glue the long end (running off the top of the photo) to the lower ropes of the coils. This prevents it from coming loose and causes it to hang down when the assembly is on the pin/fife rail. The short end is pulled off to the left side of the picture to pull it tight around the metal pin. After the glue dries the "belaying pin" is removed and the coil assembly is lifted off the pins. It helps if the pins are bent inward slightly. The coil shown in these photos was made with 0.012 inch (0.30 mm) rope. It is the first of 70 rope coils for the model.

Paul, The Wapama was one of my favorite museum ships. I visited it a couple of times back in the 1970s. I loved the interior woodworking, the spiral staircase to the passengers quarters, and the Captains cabin decorations. It was very interesting to go below into the engine room and get a close up look at the triple expansion steam engine. It was a crime for the National Parks Service to let it rot away! I am glad you are making this model. I have considered making one myself - for some time down the road.

Very neat work! It is a nice looking model.