VTHokiEE
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Everything posted by VTHokiEE
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This is so beautiful. I may have to stop following your log so that I don’t have such high expectations if I decide to start building it someday 😉. Thanks for putting in such effort to explain it all!- 1,784 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Chris Watton (Vanguard) made it: The light in my garage is really, bad but the pictures from Chris’s post are much better. I’m really impressed.
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Thanks for the suggestions. One of the reasons that I haven’t made a decisions is because I was waiting for this to arrive: I also bought some gratings as well: If I was going to plank the deck myself I think I could have done either choice but with the laser etched deck I wanted to be precise. I was going to guess that the laser etched deck would be the exact same size as the false deck (it is). So I believe this means I should press those pieces forward to be flush with the main deck. I was a little hesitant about getting the laser etched deck at first, but wow it looks superb to me and I’m quite glad that I bought it.
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Yes, leave it off for now. Bulkhead 10 is aligned with that back edge. You could probably hold off attaching that bulkhead until you attach the 6 stern frames and use them to help align the bulkhead as well.
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No, the planks will butt up against this edge. The addendum in my kit explained that the rudder post is attached after the first planking, so it would not be tapered. The tapering is so the rudder post is flush with the planking. This is it exactly. Hopefully that helps some.
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Sorry, I'm really not that much further along than you are. From my basic knowledge the curve you are drawing will be from the bottom edge of the final bulkhead to the front edge of the first bulkhead that touches the very bottom of the false keel (the part the bulkheads are attached to). If you take a look at my log I think you'll be able to see this line (I don't think I matched the back of the curve correctly it should have stopped a bit lower, on the edge of the bulkhead).
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Aside from poor editing of my cellphone shots I think this self hosting thing may work out but I think I need to find a smaller size or two for posts. Here is the post that I intending on doing in the first place. I'll cut out a a stern plank to fit here: I use the side to the pencil tip to rub the edge to find the bottom line. Then mark the bulkheads Transfer the tape to the basswood Mark the plank heights from the tic strips and connect the top of the lines Its probably a little hard to tell from the picture but there is a gap that is slightly larger than I want after a first fitting so I had to sand the bottom slightly. After sanding I did a pencil rubbing for the caulk and clamped the piece in place
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This is a very small update. Originally I intended on showing how I template my planks, but then I went down a rabbit hole of changing how I host my images so I wanted to post a picture or two to see how it compared (I’m on mobile so hopefully they aren’t to big, or too small). Here I’m adding the middle plank on the next row. I like to start in the middles because after it dries I can do one side and while that side is drying I can template out the other side without interfering with the drying side (when I have enough time to do two planks at once that it.
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You might want to take a look at this post: It really helped me understand drawing the bearding line. I am building the same version with the non-keyed rudder (as I work through that planking kit).
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Thanks! While I don’t “need” firewood here, I must say that I do enjoy a good fire (and the kid in me loves s’mores almost more than my kids ;-).
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I marked the planking belts out: and marked off the approximate location of the stern stealer After creating the tic strips for the planking rows I placed the third row: I think I should change my name to VTHokiEE, Destroyer of Basswood. My plank rate is going up though, on the third row I was two planks created for every one installed, before I was at best 3 to 1 (and there may have been a 4-1 as well 😬). I think its coming along well so far though and I am enjoying the build. I would highly recommend the kit to anyone interested (and if you're like me find a source for some extra basswood sheets, I'm pretty certain I'm going to need them before I finish).
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I’m pondering how to install the rudder platform. There is a gap: At first I thought that I should build up the back of the pieces so that it pressed flush against the false deck. However, closely looking at the manual it looks like the gap may have been filled in front (extending the false deck) instead. I do know that the pieces should be vertical; maybe it would be fine either way. Any thoughts?
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Looking pretty good! Marking out the wale gave me trouble as well. My square was too large to get into the spaces and I simply eye’d it out. I think it worked reasonably well. One of the mistakes in my build was that my frames didn’t smoothly transition into the rabbet. I think I see some areas where this could occur to you as well (Frame A and Frame 4). You may want to consider building out the lower area of those frames to make the rabbet transition smooth. (At least I think this is a good idea, but I’ll be the first to admit that I’m the blind leading so take it with a grain of salt).
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Thanks SpyGlass, that is my plan - leave the MDF alone and widen the notch in the sub deck ply to allow the entire gap in the stem to be accessible.
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I don’t think it’s too late (but maybe a little trickier). I had given this some thought (and probably should have given it more, but I think I can still put it into practice. I’ll probably trace the bulkhead from sheet onto a piece of card paper and then try to match it against the installation to see where I am. I can then trim up the bulkhead as needed, but I think, based on the deck layout, that I need to build the bulkhead up some.
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That’s not a bad idea. I don’t want to weaken the joint until I finish fairing the hull. After that it probably makes sense to score it before planking. Thanks!
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B.E. - Thanks for the splint suggestion, with it I was able to make a fix (it isn't quite perfect, but such is life). I made my splint: Then I glued it to the bulkhead and shaped it. Unfortunately I couldn't get it perfectly back together, probably a downside of MDF, but I think it will be fine. I then sanded the inside edge of each bulkhead to make the fit of the deck a little easier and cut out a larger notch in the deck to fit around the repaired section. Now the deck is attached. I believe the minor off-center issue in the bow notch of the deck is due to my repair. I plan on sanding this even with the braces. Thankfully, tonight I feel better about the whole ordeal than yesterday when it happened.
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Today I started laying out the planking belts according to the instructions. I laid out what I think looks appropriate (and I am going to wait and return to it before marking it off), but since this is my first time marking the belts out I was hoping I could get a second opinion (or two).
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Ugh, “disaster” struck tonight. The deck needed to be bent to get it on: and while I was dry fitting it was quite snug against the bow and unfortunately: The part gets cuts away eventually but I’ll have to determine how to attach it back in the meanwhile. Slightly frustrated with myself at the moment :-).
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Welcome! Many years ago I lived outside of Frederick. I hope you enjoy the forum!
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Did you pick those carriages up at ikea 😉? Everything is looking really nice; I’m still staring at the carved cannons, very well done!
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I arrived at the stern frames, which I believe were slightly redesigned for version 2 and unfortunately they still gave me a slight issue regarding the fit. As cut the outer stern frames didn't align with the cut slots. I filed the slots slightly and was able to fit the pieces, but the outer frames look like they are under some stress. Now that I am studying the images I think I may have had a eureka moment but unfortunately I don't think I can do anything about it at this point. The slots in the transom look angled to me which suggests that the I may have installed the transom backwards (I don't recall seeing anything anything about this in the instructions and after rereading them I don't believe that I overlooked it), but the transom has been beveled so there isn't any going back now unfortunately. EDIT: The more I think about how these would have been laser cut I can’t possibly think this really would have been a one-way part so I suppose there simply is some force there on the outer frames. I probably should have filed an angle into the slots on the transom but since the pieces are fragile I was nervous about removing them.
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I’m certain that Chuck’s design plays a part but don’t short change your skills. You log is quite impressive and has me strongly considering joining this project in a year or so when I finish up my current projects. Great work so far!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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I have finished the garboard and broad strakes. I had to replace the right broad stake as it extended too far so that area got a little dirty. Overall, I'm reasonably pleased with how these came out (at the cost of almost half a sheet of the 1/32" basswood). I would advise caution fitting the planks and to not be afraid to redraw (using the tape) and recut a plank if it simply isn't working.
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