VTHokiEE
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Everything posted by VTHokiEE
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I'd be very interested in the gratings for my Alert (and if shipping to the US wasn't a deal breaker I'd probably get the deck as well and while I'm at it maybe some of the wood yard and mast cleats). I'm unsure about the engraved deck, but I think I like these two more than the original Speedy engraved deck. Maybe the hatch boarders had some overburn on the original, but I'd like to see it in person. -
I‘m imagining that you don’t cut up your cornbread and a single serving is the whole skillet 😂.
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It took me a second but I got there 😁
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Gluing the boltropes to the sails
VTHokiEE replied to Oliver24's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
When I glued the bolt rope to my sails on my Sharpie Schooner I used white pva (elmer’s) glue. -
Beautiful work! You must have quite the display!
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I'm learning that if I did this kit a second time I would do a significantly better job than I currently am doing. Of course, as a teaching aid this is great, but my previous work is doing a great job of frustrating me here and there . Currently I have attached one plank of the garboard strake and I realized that I didn't get all of my frames close enough to the rabbet and prevented me from getting as clean a fit as I would have liked here. It looks a bit worse in the picture (doesn't it always?) but the plank isn't as clean around Frame E and Frame D. I'm not certain if there is any good way to clean it up later (without causing it to distract more, maybe some sawdust and glue filler), but for now I'm going to leave it alone and see what I think later in the build.
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I think I'm finally done on fairing (fingers crossed). The next step was to line of the wale and boy did I ever struggle with that. I couldn't fit my square in to properly line up the points on the plan so I tried a plethora of other objects and then finally decided that my best course of action was to attempt to use a batten and sight out the line to the best of my abilities. After I sighted the upper and lower lines out I saw in the instructions that the wale was a constant 0.28" so I cut some card paper to that dimension (roughly 9/32") and corrected my lower line. Whew, I hope this works out reasonably well because it was quite a struggle for me (spirits still high and enjoying the challenge though). This is the original sighted wale. And finally the width corrected wale (tops of the red lines are the corrections). Whew, now I think I'm ready to start planking.
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Most blocks (afaik) have (or should have) holes that are not large enough to fit a needle pulling the rope/thread through (which is over twice the diameter of the rope).
- 120 replies
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- crabbing skiff
- Chesapeake Bay crabbing skiff
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Toni - I have a question regarding marking the wale. It maybe due to my fairing but when I attempt to mark the lower edge of the wale of Frame G the result is very wide. My thinking is that the wale would be a semi-consistent width and I may be better off marking the top of the wale from the plans and then using the thickness from the plans to finish the lower edge or would I be better off leaving the wale as shown in the plans but having a pretty thick wale by the stern. I keep remeasuring but marking off the wale is giving me fits for some unknown reason, especially the lower edge 🙂. Thanks! EDIT: Doh I found my answer in the directions (going to sit in the corner now). The wales are a constant 0.28" it took me a while but i think i finally have them lined out reasonably well, or at least as well as I can do for now :).
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Very nice work! I also like the mounting stand, maybe it simply needs to find the right shelf 😉.
- 51 replies
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- artesania latina
- titanic
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I faired, and I faired, and then I faired some more and I think I am close to done in the stern, but frame 5a is giving me some trouble in the bow so I'll continue fairing the bow and see how things turn out. I'm only using sanding sticks and staying away from powered sanders because I didn't want to overdo it. I have had to build up a few frames which I associate with poor installation (by me) of the frames originally.
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Glad to be part of group 😁. I’ve been watching your build and I simply couldn’t put mine off any longer. Thanks for such a detailed log as well, it has already helped me out regarding the bearding line and syncing that with my half hull kit. I’m certain that I’ll frequently be referring to your build.
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I finally succumbed and started work on my Christmas present, the second version of the HM Alert 1777 by Vanguard Models. I also picked up my first foray into the Anatomy of the Ship series, The Naval Cutter Alert 1777 by Peter Goodwin. I'm not certain how much I will stray from the kit (certainly not as much as Blue Ensign) but I think that it will be a useful guide and will hopefully help resolve any questions that I have as they arise. I think I might need a bigger workbench to fit that beautiful manual on. I started by removing the false keel and the bulkheads and here you can notice one of the differences between the initial release and this second edition. The false keel and the rudder post are not keyed together anymore. This allows the rudder post to be added after (at least, I don't have the errata sheet in front of me) the initial planking. After a dry fit (bulkhead 10 is installed incorrectly here 😬), I added a bearding line to help with sanding down the false keel. Working on the half hull planking kit from the NRG helped me understand exactly what I was doing in this step. After sanding down the keep I sanded down the last bulkhead to get the proper angle. Dry fitted the false deck (I hope I'm not messing up my terminology) and gently rested the ship in my new building slip (and wow is this building slip overkill for this model). There are a few questions that I have to ponder since the manual still reflects the initial release instead of the second version (with the keyless rudder post) so I have to consider when to install bulkhead 10. I'll probably finish up my half hull before continuing too far on the Alert, but I had the day off and the half hull was in a different location so I couldn't resist starting.
- 435 replies
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- vanguard models
- alert
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I’d be really tempted to plank it with that spare boxwood. The laser engraving seems like you have a great template to use and make the work a bit easier. I’d like to eventually see the laser engraved deck in person, but right now I feel like planking the deck would be a really nice enhancement to the build.
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I’ll be sure to check out your logs to see the progress! I think I have to hold off until my kids are a little older because I don’t think I have the time for the setup and cleanup (a lot of my modeling is done in 15 minute intervals 😁). Definitely, I would have to make certain that I was going to use it frequently (for ship modeling as well, which I think I could see myself doing eventually). I’m certain that you’ll do a great job painting. Have fun with it!
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I may have to find your hobby shop and talk to this person. Painting plastic models frightens me to no end. I feel compelled to use an airbrush but anytime I look (window-shop) at airbrushes I get overwhelmed and go hide in a corner :-). Looking forward to following along!
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Grumman A-6 Intruder by Papa - Fujimi - PLASTIC
VTHokiEE replied to Papa's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
That’s frustrating, sorry it happened to you -
It may be too much of a pain to ship, but have you given any thought to listing some of these here on the forum? I can't wait to see the rest of your progress on the skiff! It looks very nice so far.
- 120 replies
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- crabbing skiff
- Chesapeake Bay crabbing skiff
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Really nicely done! I like the color scheme a lot and really like how the sails are blown. Nice work!
- 72 replies
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- Chesapeake Bay Flattie
- Midwest Products
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To smooth out the topline I marked the frames as directed in the instructions. I had to build up frame D (a few other frames were very close, but didn't need extra material). To trim the frames down I mainly used sanding sticks as I didn't want to overdo it and kept double checking the line as I went.
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I finished up the framework (I think I might squeak by with a passing grade), I ran into a few small issues that I should have dealt with slightly differently. I believe my main issue was failing to completely account for the kerf of the laser cut on the frames. I have a disk sander and I should have used that to accurately flatten the edges that rested against the building board. Instead I did this by hand I wasn't as successful as I hoped which led to some tilted frames. These frames were mainly correctly by adding the spacers in, but I should have been more careful in the first place. I also failed to fully press two frame against the baseboard which, fingers crossed, should be correctable when I fair the frame (but of course this adds a a bit more work during that process). I added the bearding line and sanding the deadwood down. This step is required as the first step in my next kit so I'm very glad to have the example here to understand what the kit instructions were getting at. This step was somewhat unnecessary, but visually I couldn't handle the gap between the L-Piece and the Sternpost so I added in some filler: Here is the completed framework (I added a little extra filler around Ga to account for my failings elsewhere): Extra basswood filler to fill out the stemson: The transom: and finally two areas that need some significant work during fairing - frame 2 (built up) and frame 😧 Before I get started on the fairing I'm going to take care of the topline, but I need some chart tape first.
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I think my frame 2 needs to be slightly built up (I believe that you typo'd the above and meant frame 1 needs to be built up?) and I also can't completely figure out why; frame D for me is too proud and needs severe fairing but I made a mistake and it doesn't quite sit flush on the building board (unfortunately I didn't notice this until too late). I wanted to drop in and let you know that you're doing a great job and following your build has helped me with mine, thank you!
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So maybe I’m confused, but is your boom on backwards? Edit: I was confused, now I remember that this build doesn’t have jaws on the boom. Silly me; the sails are looking nice!
- 72 replies
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- Chesapeake Bay Flattie
- Midwest Products
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Ha, I did notice that you have acquired a lot of kits :-). I’ll watch for you next post, but worse case you can always remove the planks with gaps. A lot of the remarkable planking jobs that I’ve followed seem to remove planks and redo to achieve such great results. I’m sure many are skilled enough to get it right the first time; I’m also pretty confident that there are many more that need a few more attempts.
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My slots were already too loose on the keelson. I’ll keep an eye on my fairing given your warning. Have you made more progress on your kit? Edit: What makes you think you over did the fairing by the way? So I know what to watch out for.
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