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Everything posted by jgodsey

  1. The build continues slowly, but surely. It's been all about the cockpit and cabin lately. Attaching the cockpit and cabin coaming was a tricky. I don't think any more clamps would have fit. 😀 But, the finished product works. I did cover the deck and hull with wax paper and masking tape for protection. Also, all the coaming and cabin roof planking was stained with Min-wax Mahogany. I'm trying to get a warm color that contrast nicely with the deck. The cockpit and cabin doors. Next up, planking the cabin roof. Here's the finished cabin planking.
  2. Hello fellow stay at homers😷 I’ve been plugging away at the Dragon. Hull and deck sanding is pretty much completed. Three coats of satin finish Wipe-on Poly has been applied and things are looking good. I’ve started building the cockpit and cabin area. The aft cockpit panel and fore cockpit panel are complete, along with the floor decking. Next up is planking the small cabin roof. Then, I need to mark the water line and paint the hull below the water line. Stay safe and happy modeling! Jim
  3. Very well done! I've seen a few of these boats both in person and pictures on this forum. Your finished boat looks quite nice. Also, your build log and review at the end are much appreciated. I have the Picket boat kit waiting in the wings to start once my current build is finished. Be advised, I plan to steal as many of your ideas as possible. 😀 I'm looking forward to whatever your next build may be. Cheers, Jim
  4. Great work as usual Gary! Where will these be mounted on the boat? Or, do you plan to create a diorama of the boat in action? Cheers, Jim
  5. Wow! It's been a really long time since my last post. I've been working on the Dragone, but not keeping up with my postings. Sanding and shaping the hull and keel weight are underway. I'd say I'm about half done. The real work has been spent on the deck planking. The King Plank is Tangankia 1mm x 6mm and the deck planks are Walnut 1mm x 3mm. I saw several photos of real Dragon's that had very intricate caulking and thought that would be a nice touch. Also, several other modelers have created beautiful decks with contrasting caulking. I chose a heavy card stock p
  6. It is so hard to keep the perspective in mind. All your work is so realistic that without a scale reference, it all looks full size. Amazing. Jim
  7. Hi Gary, the thought of a polished walnut hull has been rattling around in my head. A few of my model club members have also suggested it. We'll see how it sands up. Definitely going natural on the deck planking along with black caulking between the deck planks. Many thanks, Jim
  8. Happy New Year to all! I hope everyone had a pleasant holiday season. Six weeks since my last post. It was certainly a challenge finding the 1 weekend to finish the outer hull planking, but I finally did it. The outer layer hull planking is now complete. The unplanked lower keel area is intended to simulate the iron ballast keel. Next up, sanding. Couple of areas are needed. First, the overall hull needs to be smoothed out. The little peaks and valleys must be leveled. Second, the keel edges need to be shaped. Right now, all the edges are 90 degree angle
  9. Hi Tobias, This was my first build as well. Fun kit and definitely a good teach aid. Have fun! Jim
  10. Thanks Jeff! Back in the shipyard this weekend to continue the hull planking. Managed to get 5 more rows completed on both the starboard and port sides. Basically, it's halfway completed. 7 rows on and 7 more to go. The walnut strips are a bit tricky and can crack. One must must be careful not to bend them too much. Before trying to glue any of the planks, I heat bend them across the width. This allows for a better fit when bending along the length while gluing. The fore keel edge has a few issues. I'm trying a slight herringbone technique primarily for strength.
  11. I managed to get a bit of the outer layer planking completed. The transom is done and the first 3 rows down from the sheer. On the next photo, you can see the bevel on the lower edge of the first strake. This is by design and is on both sides. It does make it look like the 1st and 2nd strakes are not tight, but they are. The strakes are going on pretty easily. I'm still using CA glue. Mostly because the Elmer's Wood glue takes too long to dry and clamping at the stem is very difficult. Too sharp of an angle and none of my clamps or rubber bands will stay in place.
  12. Thank you again for the Likes! The hull is ready for the outer layer of planking. It only took just a little putty and some patient sanding. Jim
  13. Thank you Chuck. This is a new skill for me and not every plank came out "perfect", but since this is the under-layer, the practice is good and I'll have a 2nd chance to improve on my technique. Thank you to everyone for your likes as well. Well, continuing my typical snails pace, I've finally completed the under-layer planking. Given this is my first planking attempt, I'm overall fairly pleased. After planking, the strakes overhanging the transom were trimmed and sanded flush. The next steps is a sanding, putty, sanding, rinse and repeat. I'll want to get a
  14. The USN Picket is my next build once my current build is finished. You think you're slow?!? Compared to me, you're setting a land speed record! I'm looking forward to following your progress. So far, it's looks great! Cheers, Jim
  15. Great weights, but they have an inherent problem. They tend to lose their weight over time. Why is the rum always gone? I'm looking forward to following your build. I'll keep my weights close at hand as well. Cheers, Jim
  16. Well, I finally made it back into shipyard. Too much work and the Admiral was in the hospital. She's on the mend now, but definitely top priority for a time. PS: Thanks Gary for the complement and advice. As mentioned above, the hull planking is done in two layers. Using Chuck Passaro's method, I've started planking the under layer. First, the bulkhead positions are marked on the plank. Then with a tick strip, the plank width at each bulkhead is measured and transferred to the plank. The plank is then trimmed to its appropriate width along its length. On this ki
  17. It's a bit heartened that you also get a bit frustrated at times. It's hard to tell since you make everything look so smooth and easy. It's like watching pro golfers make mistakes. It gives hope to us common folk. 😉
  18. Matthias - I hope to do it justice. It's been a crazy weekend. So many honey do's. Only made a little progress on the hull planking. Measured off 2 belts, each with 6 planks. The planking strips are 1.5mm x 5mm. Once the belts were marked, the I was able to use the planking fan and mark off the bulkheads. The next step is to measure, trim and fit the sheer plank. Hopefully, we can make more progress this next week. Cheers, Jim
  19. For me, these are amazingly well timed and helpful videos. Thank you. I'm right at the point of lining off my bulkheads and then continue with the tape method you describe in the articles database to measure and cut the planking strips. The method shown on the video is so much easier. My model is a Dragon sailboat and the hull shape is very different than the Winnie, but as you say, this method should work for just about any hull shape. I post my results in the build log. Thanks again, Jim
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