grsjax
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Everything posted by grsjax
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Poplar is an excellent wood for modeling. Low cost, fairly hard (harder than basswood but not as hard as good quality soft maple) but easy to work. turns, carves, saws and drills well. Takes paint, stain and glue with no trouble. Don't know about steam bending as I haven't done any with poplar. If you can check the piece for hardness as there is some variation, get the hardest piece available with no or very few knots or other defects. Wonder why kit manufactures don't use poplar instead of basswood. -
I was looking at some fly tying thread and was wondering if anyone has used it to rig a model or for making rope on a rope walk. The stuff was 100% polyester fiber that had been waxed.
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Dremel Drill pess adapter
grsjax replied to Derek C's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The Dremel drill press adapter is fine for run of the mill modeling work. It is just what it says it is, a holder for a dremel tool that can be used to drill holes. To expect it to double as a mill or precision drill press is asking to much for a tool that doesn't cost that much to begin with. That said if you want something stronger and more precise there are a few after market dremel tool drill press adapters out there such as milescraft. You can also make your own ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:161190 ) or modify a drill press adapter for a regular power drill. Here is a link to one of these. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1654673 -
I recall that interiors were painted a light color to increase the light in the cabin and make it easier to see dropped items. I have seen work boats with off white, gray and light blue interiors. I would guess that any old paint available would have been used including mixtures of leftover paint.
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Miniature table saw blade compatibility
grsjax replied to Jim Rogers's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Any blade with the correct arbor hole size and is the same or smaller diameter than the original will work. -
Despite the low inflation numbers put out by the government some things have become much more expensive. Labor in eastern Europe and Asia is become much more expensive than it was a few years ago. Some materials like tropical woods have become significantly more expensive. New technology while making production faster and cutting down on some labor costs has high startup costs that must be amortized. Add to that that there is a small number of companies making models so that competition does not have as large effect on keeping costs down as in other industries and increase in prices becomes understandable.
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Is there a true POF kit in the market?
grsjax replied to Ulises Victoria's topic in Wood ship model kits
Looking at the Chinese models. With prices running from $400 to well over a thousand dollars they are not cheap. Wonder how many kits they are selling? At a price point from $500 up how much demand is there and would it be enough to get a legit manufacture to introduce similar kits? -
A very good model for a second build is the Model Shipways kit of the Skipjack "Willie Bennett". Enough detail to make it interesting but not so complicated as to be beyond a second time builder.
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Recommendations For A Good Milling Machine
grsjax replied to Thistle17's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The seig X1 mill is a good one for model making. It is sold under a number of brand names in both the US and Europe. Good basic machine that will do anything you need to do for model building. Will require some adjustment to get the best from it. First pic. Another good one and better than the X1 is the Micro Lux 84656 micro mill. Micro Mark no longer sells it but it is available from other distributors or direct from China. A very good mill with ball bearings on the X-Y and Z axis. Second pic. I have worked with both and both are completely adequate for the type of work you want to do. Just my opinion better to spend half as much on the mill and the rest to by accessories when the lower price tool will do the job needed.
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Could be discoloration from the rubber jaws. Another possibility is moisture. All air has some moisture and space between the jaws and the hull would be a place that you might get some minor condensation. If the marks disappear after a few days that is probably the answer.
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If ebony turns out to be hard to get try looking for African black wood. A good substitute. There are a couple of other woods that can be used as well. Check the wood database online.
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Tools You Can't Live Without
grsjax replied to Justin P.'s topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have one like that. Works really well and has glass lens. I think I paid about US$12 for them on eBay. -
I would think that anything the size of a ship of the lines keel would require bolting as well as wedging. Keels were made up of as many as 7 pieces and must have been under tremendous stress and strain all the time. If I remember correctly there were a couple of different methods of making the scarp in the keel one of which did use a wedge in a similar manner.
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Although more elaborate this is pretty much the same method used in the Royal Dock Yards to splice together the long keels of large ships.
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There are several low temp silver solder pastes available. I purchased some from Amazon and have been pretty happy with it. You have to be careful if you are soldering several pieces together because the earlier joints will soften and/or melt if the piece gets to hot.
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Did some searching for Polybak online and found this vendor that sells single 49"x97" sheets. Don't know what they charge as you need to setup a business account to see the prices. https://www.wurthlac.com/storefront/pre-fab-components/backing-sheets/polybak-backing-sheet-paint-grade-011-thick-49-x-97-/prodPCCLPGBTN.html Here is another vendor that will provide laserboard (not sure what kind) custom cut to your specs and also sells sheets (from 12"x12") of the material. http://automatedartists.com/laserboard
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Update. Take all 3 books for $20 including shipping in US.
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Several 24x10 drawings (one sheet for each sub) of US subs marked "Warship Drawings, Edward H. Wiswesser". Plans are in good shape but have been stored folded and have creases. The paper has darkened some. Price is $8 each including first class shipping in the US. U.S.S. Corsair, SS435 to SS524 U.S.S. Seawolf/Nautilus, SSN571 and 575 U.S.S. Tang, SS563 to SS568 U.S.S. Thresher, SSN593 to SSN615 I had to crib pictures off the net as my camera is acting up. Same drawings but actual may look slightly different.
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Shipping is $3 ea. within the US. The Neophyte Shipmodelers Jackstay by George F. Campbell, M.R.I.N.A. Very good condition 1988 reprint. Softcover, tight binding, clean pages. $6 Ship Models: How to Build Them by Charles G. Davis Very good condition Dover reprint. Softcover, tight binding, clean pages. $5 The Ship Model Builders Assistant by Charles G. Davis Very good condition Dover reprint. Softcover, tight binding, clean pages. $5
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All books are in very good or better condition with dust jackets. Tight bindings and clean pages. Shipping is $4 ea. within the US. International shipment will require figuring shipping for destination. The 20-Gun Ship Blandford by Peter Goodwin $25 The 100-Gun Ship Victory by John McKay (some very minor marks on the dust cover) $25 The 24-Gun Frigate Pandora by John McKay and Ron Coleman $40 All 3 books for $80 shipping included in the US.
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Very good condition copy. Hardback with dust cover. Dust cover has a clear plastic covering. Tight binding with clean pages. ISBN: 0890092710 1979 Published by Chartwell Books, Inc. 192 pages, lots of illustrations. SOLD
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Working with braided steel lines
grsjax replied to skipper1947's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
That looks like twisted wire rope to me. -
Working with braided steel lines
grsjax replied to skipper1947's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Could you post a closeup picture of the wire? I would like to see what kind of wire you are using. Thanks
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