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grsjax

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Everything posted by grsjax

  1. Depends on what finish you are going to use. If tung oil is going to be the finish than it should work to fill the pores as well. If you plan on painting the wood than you need to find a compatible filler to use.
  2. Getting back to mouldable plastics. The chemical name is Polycaprolactone. Put that in the search area on Amazon and it brings up a lot of products. 8oz (224 grams) for US$10 is about the best deal I see there.
  3. Cool the steel in sand.
  4. Blacken and then paint. I find that blackened brass holds paint better.
  5. I don't use a lot of CA glue so I wasn't to surprised when I found that my bottle of CA had gone bad. Off to wally world to get some new glue. Looking through their rather meager offering in the glue section I found a bottle of "DAP Rapid Fuse all purpose adhesive" On the bottle it says Bonds virtually everything and sets in 30 seconds. It was cheaper than some of the other glues so I decided to give it a try. Took a couple of basswood scraps and spread a small amount of the glue on them and put them together. Had about 10 or 15 seconds to move the parts around then it grabbed hard. Let it set for a few minutes and tried to separate the wood. It was as solid as a rock and dried clear and hard. It is a super glue but has a very low odor and is easy to work with. Better than other CA glues I have used.
  6. I use two old wooden desks for work benches. They provide a work surface at a convenient height when sitting and the drawers on either side are great for storing tools and materials. I have a home made shelf that attaches to one of the desks to provide additional space.
  7. Here is an interesting video on making your own micro chisels.
  8. One advantage to having double planking is that it gives a beginner a chance to learn proper planking techniques without to much worry about botching the final result. Planking the first layer allows for mistakes that can then be covered by a second layer with less chance of mistakes. The key is to try to plank both layers the right way. Not just slap on the first layer and cover it with wood filler.
  9. hypodermic needles of various sizes are available. Cut teeth on the edge and use it to drill through a piece of wood of the correct thickness. as you drill one the previous one is pushed up the tube. BTW drill into the end grain to get stronger treenails. This method is easy but slow as you have to stop every few times to clear the needle.
  10. Could you post some pictures of the treenail maker and and explanation of how it works?
  11. No.1 Brigentine No.2 Ketch The last two I am not sure of.
  12. Getting back to chisels. Are Ramelson chisels good?
  13. It varies depending on how much cutting is needed for a particular project. Can't be beat for cutting out frames and other curved parts.
  14. I purchased this saw https://www.amazon.com/BUCKTOOL-16-inch-Variable-Scroll-Pinless/dp/B07T4N9L93/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=BUCKTOOL+16-inch+Variable+Speed+Scroll&qid=1607487074&s=hi&sr=1-2 and am very happy with it. Best bang for the buck.
  15. Hulls may or may not have been black but the masts were probably painted white. A white mast is the least likely to be spotted against the sky and sea. Not sure why but I have seen this mentioned a couple of times.
  16. You don't say what time frame you are interested in. Mid 18th century I would think a sloop would be appropriate. Late 18th or early 19th century a fast schooner would be about right. The Model Shipways "Dapper Tom" kit might be a good choice. The Nautical Research Journal had a couple of articles about making this kit more realistic. The original lines are shown in Chappell's book "The Baltimore Clipper".
  17. Thanks Went to the site and they had the instruction in a downloadable format.
  18. I bought the AL Zuiderzee Botter 1912 kit on eBay but it came without the instructions. Does anyone have a set they are willing to part with or copy for me?
  19. I was given one of these kits and started to build it. Ended up throwing it out. Not well made and the wood is cheap.
  20. Well I got the new carbide jewelers draw plate and it is a fine tool but does not work well for making trunnels. Using my jewelers drawplate made of steel by drawing the wood from the back to the front works ok but not perfect. The carbide plate is made differently and has a short straight section. I can draw bamboo slivers through the plate and make satisfactory trunnels but the effort required is to great to make it worth while. I guess I will have to take a look at the Byrnes draw plate.
  21. I am aware of these being for drawing wire but if you turn them over they work well for making treenails. I have an old wire draw plate that works well but only goes down to about 1mm which is to large for anything less than 1:24 scale. This one goes down to .26mm. I paid $3 shipped for the new one and if it doesn't work for treenails it will still be good for wire drawing which is a useful thing to have around. I was aware of the Byrnes plate and considered it but with shipping to Hawaii it costs about the same as the plates on Amazon. It would be a good choice if this one doesn't work out.
  22. Needed a draw plate with small holes for making truunels. Was checking Amazon and most were between $30 and $50. However in with the more expensive ones I found this one, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RN8F1Z9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Looks good and at this price I figured it was worth taking a chance on. It will be here next week and I will post an update.
  23. Probably steel coated with copper. Fine steel wire will burn.
  24. Maybe site management can explore that idea further. I have seen group buys on other sites that provided members with quality products at a discount.
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