grsjax

I have always thought MSW for ModelShipWay although MS would work.

The Admiral and I are getting ready to downsize to a smaller house. That means it is time to move some of my stash. These are all kits that are complete and and un-started that are duplicates or subjects that I no longer find interesting. Shipping will be at cost by what ever means the buyer prefers. ModelShipWays solid hull kit "America". 3/16"=1' scale. White box kit. $50 SOLD ModelShipWays (MSW) solid hull kit "Rattlesnake". Yellow box kit. Box is a bit beat up but contents are fine. SOLD MSW solid hull kit "Dapper Tom". Yellow box kit. Ditto SOLD MSW solid hull kit. "New York Pilot Boat Phantom". Yellow box kit with mahogany hull. $25 SOLD MSW solid hull kit. "Tugboat Dispatch #9". Yellow box, box in poor shape but contents are perfect. $50 SOLD Midwest "Sharpie Schooner". $25 Sold Midwest "Skipjack". $25 Sold Midway "Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack". $20 SOLD Midwest "The Dingy". $15Sold Midwest "Chesapeake Double Kayak". $25 SOLD Billings "Skuldelev Ship". Older kit with parts printed on wood. Very good condition. $30 SOLD Bear Mountain Canoe "Chestnut Prospector" 1:12 scale. $50 Aeropiccola "Indiscret". This is an older kit with parts printed on the wood. Some of the parts have been cut out but everything is there and in good shape. Box is kind of beat up. This appears to be a smaller scale than the newer kits. $50 Sold I can send pics to anyone interested. Additional kits will be added as I thin the herd.

Which kind of glue sort of depends on if you can clamp the plank in place. If you have room to clamp than a good white glue like Elmer's Glue All will work fine although druxey's comments about pre-bending the plank is also a good idea. If you can't clamp the work than you will need mechanical fastenings like nails to hold everything together until the glue can dry. Another way is to use CA on a few areas to hold the plank tight and use PVA or white glue for the other areas. In addition if possible always glue the planks edge to edge. That is the strongest bond you can get in gluing planks.

Drop me a PM. I have a Midwest Sharpie Schooner kit in my stash that I have decided not to build. If you are interested we can make a deal for it.

I decided to try my hand at using an airbrush. Didn't want to spend a lot of money so was looking for cheap one to get started with. Found one on Amazon called a Pointzero PZ-276 that looks like a Badger 350. For $10 delivered I figured I couldn't to far wrong. I have read Don' Airbrush Tips and his review of the Badger 350 was a big help. I also looked at his review of the Harbor freight knock off of the 350 and so was a little concerned that what I was getting might not be very usable. I got the pz-276 and pleasantly surprised. Immediately took it apart to see how well it was made. I was surprised, for a cheap airbrush the fit and finish was really good. Haven't tried it out yet but think it will work ok. Anyone else have any experience with this brand? I would like to hear from anyone that has used one and get some idea of what I can expect.

Air dried or kiln dried wood should be allowed to sit in your work area for several months to acclimate to the humidity in your area. If you use wood that is to dry it will absorb moisture from the air and if it is to wet it will lose moisture. In either case you can get movement. Let is sit for awhile to adjust to your local conditions and you will have fewer problems.

I assume that is the main sail so it would be a ringtail sail. A ringtail is a studding sail for a for and aft sail.

That is a bark. Although it doesn't follow the rules exactly it still fits the definition. I.e. a three or more masted vessel with square sails on all masts but the mizzen.

They are all called gaffs with a modifier such as fore sail gaff, fore topsail gaff etc. There is also a standing gaff that is always set. The fore sail gaff is usually a standing gaff.

Best to use a brass brush and carefully remove as much rust as you can. Then use very fine emery cloth and light oil to get the rest. Naval jelly might be a but to harsh.

Midwest's apprentice series might be a good place to start. Midwest no longer makes boat models but they can be found on eBay at reasonable prices. Level one might be to simple for you but level's 2 and 3 are very good. Model Shipways makes several kits that make good first builds. The skipjack Willie C. Bennett is a bit complicated but is a good one. Look through the build logs here and get a feel for what it takes to build one that you like.

Easy way is to google Master Korabel and hit the translate button on the google citation for there website.

If you are interested in a Skipjack model look at the Model Shipways "Willie Bennett". Best Skipjack model available and a great first build.

Hi Yes I paint the end grain of all my green wood. The strawberry guava just doesn't do well when it is drying. I have been looking for a tree that died standing hoping that drying out like that will make the wood more usable.

Hi I have some quava drying now. What type of quava are you using. Here in Hawaii we have several varieties of quava some with very different qualities. What I have now is white quava which looks to be very good. There is also yellow, red and strawberry quava. The last is really hard to season. Seems no matter what I try it splits badly.

Great looking rope. I hope you do decide to produce it as it looks so good.

Another good site for finding books is bookfinder.com . I have found some very good deals on rare/out of print books there.

How fast are you running the wood through the saw? If you are moving to fast it can result in poor results. Try moving the piece forward at a slow pace, experiment until you find the speed that works best. A dull blade could also be the culprit.

Another thing you can do to make the Dremel drill stand better is to fill the column with something to stiffen it. A wood dowel of the right size or poring in epoxy thickened with sawdust will do the trick.

I find the Dremel drill press stand adequate for 90% of the drilling I need. Bolting it down to a solid surface helps. For the more precise work a small bench top drill press is the way to go.

I would go along with the suggestion of using poplar. It is usually available from the big box stores, is fairly cheap, harder than bass wood but still works easily and looks good. As for slicing up the wood you might want to invest in a hollow ground planer blade for your table saw. With care you can get very thin sections using a planer blade.

Was looking at Loctite GO2 glue today at Wally World and was wondering if anyone is using it. From the description on the package it looks pretty good and it works with wood, plastic and metal.

One sold other three are still available. I will ship plans to international destinations but costs may be higher.

This is a startup that isn't on the market yet. Claims it can cut soft material like leather. This is a link to their Kickstarter page.

For a kit like the MSW Bluenose you wouldn't need a lot of tools. Bare bones would be an xacto knife with a No.11 blade (get extra blades), a razor saw, large and small tweezers and sandpaper do most of what you need to do. A few other tools are nice to have like a couple of needle files and maybe a miter box but arn't necessary to complete the model. Look over each step in the process and determine before hand what tools are going to required. Have fun.