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grsjax

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Everything posted by grsjax

  1. grsjax
    I assume that is the main sail so it would be a ringtail sail. A ringtail is a studding sail for a for and aft sail.
  2. grsjax
    That is a bark. Although it doesn't follow the rules exactly it still fits the definition. I.e. a three or more masted vessel with square sails on all masts but the mizzen.
  3. grsjax
    They are all called gaffs with a modifier such as fore sail gaff, fore topsail gaff etc. There is also a standing gaff that is always set. The fore sail gaff is usually a standing gaff.
  4. grsjax
    Best to use a brass brush and carefully remove as much rust as you can. Then use very fine emery cloth and light oil to get the rest. Naval jelly might be a but to harsh.
  5. grsjax
    Midwest's apprentice series might be a good place to start. Midwest no longer makes boat models but they can be found on eBay at reasonable prices. Level one might be to simple for you but level's 2 and 3 are very good. Model Shipways makes several kits that make good first builds. The skipjack Willie C. Bennett is a bit complicated but is a good one. Look through the build logs here and get a feel for what it takes to build one that you like.
  6. grsjax
    Easy way is to google Master Korabel and hit the translate button on the google citation for there website.
  7. grsjax
    If you are interested in a Skipjack model look at the Model Shipways "Willie Bennett". Best Skipjack model available and a great first build.
  8. grsjax
    Hi Yes I paint the end grain of all my green wood. The strawberry guava just doesn't do well when it is drying. I have been looking for a tree that died standing hoping that drying out like that will make the wood more usable.
  9. grsjax
    Hi I have some quava drying now. What type of quava are you using. Here in Hawaii we have several varieties of quava some with very different qualities. What I have now is white quava which looks to be very good. There is also yellow, red and strawberry quava. The last is really hard to season. Seems no matter what I try it splits badly.
  10. grsjax
    Great looking rope. I hope you do decide to produce it as it looks so good.
  11. grsjax
    Another good site for finding books is bookfinder.com . I have found some very good deals on rare/out of print books there.
  12. grsjax
    How fast are you running the wood through the saw? If you are moving to fast it can result in poor results. Try moving the piece forward at a slow pace, experiment until you find the speed that works best. A dull blade could also be the culprit.
  13. grsjax
    Another thing you can do to make the Dremel drill stand better is to fill the column with something to stiffen it. A wood dowel of the right size or poring in epoxy thickened with sawdust will do the trick.
  14. grsjax
    I find the Dremel drill press stand adequate for 90% of the drilling I need. Bolting it down to a solid surface helps. For the more precise work a small bench top drill press is the way to go.
  15. grsjax
    I would go along with the suggestion of using poplar. It is usually available from the big box stores, is fairly cheap, harder than bass wood but still works easily and looks good. As for slicing up the wood you might want to invest in a hollow ground planer blade for your table saw. With care you can get very thin sections using a planer blade.
  16. grsjax
    Was looking at Loctite GO2 glue today at Wally World and was wondering if anyone is using it. From the description on the package it looks pretty good and it works with wood, plastic and metal.
  17. grsjax
    One sold other three are still available. I will ship plans to international destinations but costs may be higher.
  18. grsjax
    This is a startup that isn't on the market yet. Claims it can cut soft material like leather. This is a link to their Kickstarter page.
  19. grsjax
    For a kit like the MSW Bluenose you wouldn't need a lot of tools. Bare bones would be an xacto knife with a No.11 blade (get extra blades), a razor saw, large and small tweezers and sandpaper do most of what you need to do. A few other tools are nice to have like a couple of needle files and maybe a miter box but arn't necessary to complete the model. Look over each step in the process and determine before hand what tools are going to required. Have fun.
  20. grsjax
    I have the US Navy boat book and it is a very worthwhile addition to any library.
  21. grsjax
    Don't know what kind of wood it is but would be surprised if it was boxwood. Anyway if you need boxwood get it from Chuck on this forum. He has high quality stuff at reasonable prices.
  22. grsjax
    There is, or was a company called Woodkrafter that makes simple model ships for kids. Don't know if they are still in business.
  23. grsjax
    Brass spacers used in lamps can make good ship stands. They already have a hole through them so simply running a screw up through the base board, spacer and into the keel makes a solid stand. These are links to a couple of lamp part supplier that sells them. You can usually find good ones for about $5 a pair. https://www.grandbrass.com/category/necks-cast_brass_necks/necks/ https://www.antiquelampsupply.com/lamp-parts/couplings-loops-hooks-swivels/couplings-armbacks-necks-swivels-spindles
  24. grsjax
    Thanks for the kind thoughts. Luckly we are in a spot that doesn't flood and can last for several days if the roads get cut. Biggest problem is going to be power outages. If a lot of lines go down we could be using candles for a week or more. Makes doing fine work very difficult.
  25. grsjax
    I would sand it to fit. Others may have different advice.

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